US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build

[mikiek]

Well a little bit of positive news. I filed the heck out of the area around the dip and the next strake will now lay where it is supposed to - with a little help. Not sure if I consider that a fix or just postponing the agony a little longer. I will file this strake at the same places. Probably the rest of the strakes as well.

 

One nice note - I have been filing with a cheap MM flat mini file. It takes forever to raise any sawdust from wood. I completely forgot I had some of the best riffler files made, sitting in a drawer of the toolbox. So out come the Corradi's - set of 8. All shapes and sizes. What a difference!! They go thru the boxwood like a knife thru butter. All the filing mentioned above would have taken 30 minutes with that cheap flat file. Did it in about 5 minutes with the rifflers. There's one kind of like a curved rat-tail that is fantastic at getting into the concave curved surfaces at the stern. They won't be headed back to the toolbox any time soon.

[jbshan]

Remember that 'steep learning curve'?  Everybody climbs it in their own way.  Seems like you're finding yours.

[mikiek]

Thank you Joel. Things have progressed since the day I first opened the kit box back in October. Yes, hard to believe it's been 7 months.

 

I feel like I'm at a point where I can spot when something is not right. Coming up with solutions is where I am still heavily dependent on everyone here at MSW.

 

It has been a pleasant journey.

[mikiek]

Hi everyone - I have mentioned proportional dividers several times lately. Frankly they are something I just recently found out about. But I have quickly come to see their value, particularly with hull planking. I have had several PMs asking about the dividers so I thought I would do a quick demo for those that haven't had the opportunity to use them. They can be purchased online at Amazon or any art supply or architect supply site. Prices range from $12 to over $800 - the difference being materials and precision. The one I have was around $75.

 

I am using the dividers to help me determine the width of planks as I lay them to the hull. As you know the width will vary from one end to the other. One note: I do not lay a single long strip for a strake. Instead the strip is cut into usually 5 pieces and each piece laid individually. So on with the show....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I go thru this routine for each strake. You have to decrease the divisions for each strake as after the first strake is laid there will be 7 left. The nice thing about dividing for each strake - even if you screw one up (too narrow or too wide) when you do the next measurement it will automatically correct itself. So it is just about impossible for the the last strake in the band to miss the band mark. The only way to mess up is to not get your bands marked accurately.

 

For full disclosure, the measuring method I am using is how to divide a straight line into equal parts. Of course the bulkhead edges are not straight. There are methods for using the dividers for circles and curved surfaces - just a little more math involved. However, I have found that for this application, at least on the Niagara hull, the straight line method is sufficient and incredibly easy. It takes less than a minute to measure and mark a strake at each bulkhead.

 

Hope maybe this will help someone......

[jbshan]

See?  7 months in and you're teaching already.

[mikiek]

Thank you again Joel. You have played a big part in my progress.

[Elijah]

Nice demonstration! It's helpful that a lot of builds I am following are planking, I will need the knowledge in the next few weeks probably. Thank you!

[mikiek]

Thank you Elijah - I hope it will help. Dividers have many uses. Planking is just one.

[mikiek]

Styrofoam garage door insulation arrived Tues. Installed Weds. Today picked up and installed 14000BTU portable AC unit in garage.

 

 

 

WOW!

 

'nuff said.....

[texxn5]

You needed it today - got to 89. Sounds like you're getting ready for June. Great idea.

John

[mikiek]

And since I kept the garage doors closed, not a single skeeter bite. They have been tearing me up lately.

[mikiek]

Most of the activity of late on this thread has been me yapping about this or that, so I thought I would get back on track.

 

Still planking, but nearing completion. So far everything has followed the plans. While there has been some serious edge bending happening, the only adjustments were the 2 stealers called for in Band D. There are also 2 called for in Band C.

 

I started Band C (top down) then decided I wanted to see how Band D would shake out. For all the times I measured D it just didn't look right marked on the bulkheads. So I've laid 4 strakes there + 2 stealers. This has raised a question that is not apparent from the plans or instructions. The plans call for 8, 8, 8, 5 strakes for Band A - D respectively. Does the 5 for D include the Garboard?

 

With 1 strake left for D and 6 left for C I decided to consider the remaining area the last band. I knew the start and end points. All the remained was to decide the width of the planks. Both C & D use 5/32"x1/16" in the plans and it looks like the combined width of 7 strakes of that width still fit into the widest space on the bulkeads. Oddly, bulkhead H started out as the widest bulkhead (the longest outer edge) but now that honor has shifted the bulkhead G. Strange, but I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

 

So with 1 band remaining, using 7 5/32" strips, my dividers can still tell me how wide the strips should be at each bulkhead. Well, almost. There is still a critical milestone coming up, that being laying of planks at the stern so that the planks terminating at the sternpost (running vertically) meet perfectly with the planks that terminate on the transom edge (running horizontally)

 

 

It's almost a perfect corner at the junction so planks will have to lay in there precisely. It appears that I have 2 more strakes to lay that will terminate on the transom. How these end up can be controlled by the final width of the plank. They both will need a little bit of tapering so I should be able to get a good fit in the corner. There are 5 more to lay that will terminate on the sternpost. The problem here is the total width of the 5 is less than the amount of space left to cover. Bring on the stealers. The plans call for 2 within the area I have left. I'm assuming it to be more of a 'play it by ear' thing. The sole purpose of those stealers is for width adjustment so that the 5 strakes (plus stealer(s)) will terminate in the corner as well?

 

It all gets a little crazier because the shape of the band is narrow at the bow, widest amid ship, narrow right before the stern and then wider at the termination.

 

 

A few shots of my overall progress:

 

 

 

All the sanding from tapering has left a pretty big mess in my work area. Yesterday morning, I took EVERYTHING off the workbench, got out the leaf blower and hosed it all down. Then the rest of the garage. Then put everything back. Nice & clean?

 

[texxn5]

Hi Mike, the planking is shaping up nicely. Things do get dusty and into everything. Don't know if you have a need for an Amati Keel Clamp Vise or not. I've used mine on 2 ships and it's really versatile. If you decide you want it PM me or email me, I think you have my email address. We can eliminate the shipping and I'll deliver it to you. These are rare.

John

 

Forgot the link: http://www.proxxontoolsdiscount.com/store/p339/39527_Amati_Keel_Klamper_Only_1_Avail..html

Edited May 15, 2016 by texxn5

[mikiek]

Hi Mike, the planking is shaping up nicely. Things do get dusty and into everything. Don't know if you have a need for an Amati Keel Clamp Vise or not. I've used mine on 2 ships and it's really versatile. If you decide you want it PM me or email me, I think you have my email address. We can eliminate the shipping and I'll deliver it to you. These are rare.

John

 

Thanks John - I have one. Used it a lot at first. Now during planking - with all the turning one end or the other, right side up, upside down -  I am finding the foam holder to be more practical, and a soft surface. I imagine I will switch back once the hull will be right side up most of the time.

 

Hey, since your last build was a Model Shipways kit, did the plank count listed in the plans in the last band (closest to the keel) include the garboard?

[texxn5]

Mike, if I recall I didn't worry about the plank count because the planks were somewhat irregular, mostly a little larger so the count wouldn't come out the same. Since I was coppering the hull it didn't matter to me as well as it's not visible. Unless your wood is a perfect width and a perfect fit it probably will be off. My Garboard was of proper width but most of the others weren't so when it came time to close up the hull the pieces were trimmed and shaped to the remaining hole.

Hope that helped,

John

[mikiek]

Ahh, forgot about the copper! And I hear ya on trying to match the plans to the letter.

 

I'm using boxwood from Crown and the widths are probably more consistent than the MS basswood. It also sands a lot better - no fuzzies and it keeps an edge. But I'm probably still being too anal about it.

[texxn5]

Great Mike, I'm glad to hear you got Jason's wood, it makes all the difference in the world. Anal, yeah, maybe some, but nothing wrong with that as it makes our attempts better. Keep it up and you'll be proud. Have you ever been aboard the Niagara? If not, be sure and check out my photos about Niagara. If I had room I'd be building her.

John

[mikiek]

John - the photos on your site have been a tremendous help to me. Never been on any tall ship.

[Don Quixote]

Looks great, Mike. Wish you'd been around when I was fighting planks. They may be small but they had me out numbered.

[texxn5]

Hi Mike, glad the photos have helped. I've been there twice to see her. Last summer I had a friend building the model and he asked me for some specific pictures of certain items, so that when I was there I took a whole lot of pictures with a modeler's "eye" and posted them. Quite of few members of the Niagara Club look at them on a regular basis. I thought this would be my next build, but plans changed. Downsizing to a 5th wheel hopefully but have to sell a Classic Car first. You know any car collectors around here? I have it listed online.

John

[mikiek]

John - if you have the nerve to leave it parked somewhere - at least during the day - put it in front of the Bentwater entrance. There's a place behind the E.M.S. office (a little strip shopping center) where lot's of folks sell vehicles. Could give some exposure to folks with $$$.

[mikiek]

Looks great, Mike. Wish you'd been around when I was fighting planks. They may be small but they had me out numbered.

I'm trying to catch up with you and we can fight the rigging together.

[texxn5]

Thanks Mike, if I were to do something like that, I'd probably bring a chair and sit there with it. Wouldn't be able to trust that some kid might hurt it. I know where you're talking about. 67 Plymouth GTX, mine new in 66 - long story but have a written history for it among other things.

 

I have it listed at: http://www.carsonline.com

John

Edited May 17, 2016 by texxn5

[Don Quixote]

Mike, I've been at it for some 28 months. You'll be done before I get the masts up. I have the bowsprit in as of Sunday and am starting the forward mast now. Just because I don't work, the Admiral thinks *I* should do all the cleaning. And cooking. Sheesh, A guy goes to culinary school and... Then I have to sit out front with cup of coffee and a cigar now and then, then a bloody mary and a cigar in the evening. I live across from a large park. They play baseball, football, soccer.

 

Just put a cherry pie in the oven and I'm going to start slicing about 30 pounds of bacon I smoked Sunday.

[Don Quixote]

 

67 Plymouth GTX, mine new in 66

'69 Pontiac Le' Mans. Cloning into a GTO. Damage to the drivers side front so why not? 455, Edelbrock Performance Plus cam, intake and carb. A 455 is close enough to 8 liters so I'm thinking of putting "ATE" Liters on the sides of the scoop.

[texxn5]

I'll PM you, I don't want to hijack Mike's log

Thanks,

John

[mikiek]

From the air conditioned studio in steamy S.E. Texas I bear good news. Hull planking is done! 

 

Sorry I haven't checked in for some time, but a log entry like "did 3 more strakes tonite - 10 more to go" just isn't very news worthy. That is ALL I have been working on for the last 2 weeks.

 

Not sure where to begin. First off, a big thank you to all that have chipped in with advice and support! It would have been very difficult without you guys.

 

Holy smoke, checking back I see I started this process exactly 1 month ago. I'm pretty happy with the job over all, although (as usual) the pix bring out the worst of everything. Plans called for 29 strakes per side, I ended up doing 28. Plans called for 4 stealers per side, I did 3. Plans DID NOT call for any drop planks, I had to do 1 at the bow and 1 at the stern on each side. The last strake.

 

I got off on the butt pattern a couple of times. Maybe a senior moment? Hull painting will cover a lot of evils.

 

Per the plans - 4 bands per side. Started at the wale and worked down for the first band. Did about 2/3 of the next band then decided I wanted to get the garboard in. Did that plus the adjacent 4 strakes. Then took the remaining unplanked area and considered that as the final band. This band I worked from both directions alternating top and bottom. It worked out pretty well as the last few strakes ended up in a relatively flat area so I didn't have to do a lot of bending and twisting. I already had enough stress worrying about whether the last 2 strakes will fit together.

 

Now I suppose I will be sanding for the next week

 

Niagara seems SO much bigger now. She is heavier too. Wow, we must be on a good relationship - try telling that to the Admiral.

 

I know not many use them, but for me the proportional dividers were indispensable. Right down to the final strake. Come to find out I am kind of using them bass ackwards. Apparently, artists typically use them to make things bigger. You measure with the small end and the big end will give you a proportionally larger measurement. I was measuring with the big end and using the small end to tell me plank width. Whatever works.

 

Also helpful was the technique I used to put a twist in some of the stern planks. Soaked them like I was going to bend them but instead put one end in a vise, twisted the strip twice and put the other end in a vise and let it dry. Naturally curly planks! Very helpful for the transition from a vertical lay to a horizontal lay.

 

Here's a peek:

 

 

 

A few days ago. So close I could taste it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can see I mangled up the existing paint job pretty good. Speaking of that you may notice the 'new red' I'm using. Once I finish painting over the fire engine red I will finally be ready to glue down the deck. However I am debating with myself whether I need to apply with the airbrush. So far I have hand painted and that is exactly what it looks like. I've lost the nice airbrush finish. Given that I am moving towards more accurate colors for the period I am also going to paint the rail black like it should have been.

 

I really need to move on. All the spars have been sitting in the rack for too long.

 

Edited May 21, 2016 by mikiek

[jbshan]

In re paint:

The paint loss shows how easy it is to 'rock' the sanding/filing tool at the end of the stroke, whereby you lose the corner's sharpness.  You have to consciously lift the tool at the end of the stroke.

The paint surface is what is to my mind the typical brushed acrylic finish.  I find using several layers, each thinned down, avoids the brush marks and built-up texture (transom and mast cheeks).  These can be desirable on a painting, but not on a model.

In re planks:

You got 'er covered, which was the object of the exercise, not the actual number of planks used.  I, too, try to keep things symmetrical for looks if no other reason, but in actuality I suspect they didn't fuss over an inch or so.  Port plank an inch wider, next time starboard will make up for it, depending on how the planks come to them.  If you keep to your bands, measuring each time from the previous plank, it'll come out in the end.

[mikiek]

The Chili Red is 20%-25% thinner - Tamiya acrylic and thinner. I applied a 3rd coat last nite and the waterway looks better but still looks brushed. The killer is all that very thin trim around the bulwark ports. I bought a 0/3 detail brush to use for this but even with that the edges do not look sharp. I have come up with every excuse in the book NOT to mask. My results so far are the reason for doing so. I think it is my only option if I want to get the paint job back where it was.

[mikiek]

Well he's done it now. Pulled out the Constructo Enterprise kit and glued the bulkheads to frame. I'm not sure how far I will take this. Much more and I suppose a build log is in order.

 

So while the paint was drying on Niagara, I pushed her to the back of the workbench and put Enterprise in front to do the bulkheads. Not sure, but I thought I might have heard some hissing and spitting

 

Kind of nice working on some different wood. I'm not sure if it's one of the wood types or just the laser burn on plywood but when you open the kit top it smells like a cigar box. Nice!