Stern Carvings -- a question

[mtaylor]

This is a pretty off the wall question, but I thought I would ask.  I also realize the answer may very well be... "depends".

 

The main stern carvings above the window on a frigate namely.   How thick would the wood be typically?  The drawings give no indication of this.  

 

This is for the "Arms of France" on the Licorne, a French Frigate. 

[mtaylor]

Here's the pictures Janos.   Both the carving layout and the "on ship" layout although that one is for a different ship.   I've got it on scale 6" thick but I'm wondering if that's not too thick.

 

 

 

[shiloh]

The depths of cut in the carving whould have the biggest impact on the choice of wood thickness because it would effect strength. Or it could be a thickness of 6" limited the carving depth to 3 inches to maintain the needed strength. Another consideration might be; was the carving done off the ship and then attached to the structural members.

jud

[mtaylor]

Thanks Janos.

 

Shiloh,

I've glued the piece to a sacrificial chunk of wood so I can hold it and also give some strength during the process.  The spears I'm thinning the thickness down to their width (they come out looking mostly round).  But I'm taking off lots of wood all over.  When done, I'll soak it in alcohol and remove it from the backing.

 

 

I guess I'll carry on for now (unless I really cobble it) and go for what looks right.  If I do cobble it, I'll go for some 4" (scale) and save some aggrevation.

[druxey]

A bas-relief carving would probably be no more than 3" or 4" thick. Well carved, it gives the illusion of greater depth.

Edited December 10, 2015 by druxey

[mtaylor]

Looks like a consensus is forming  ... I'll use the one I'm doing as practice and go for the 4" thick wood for the real deal. The new dental burs give me some really nice control compared to the sanding burs but they are slow.  Or maybe it's me.

Edited December 10, 2015 by mtaylor

[mtaylor]

Janos,

 

I have some European Boxwood from Crown that I'm using for the stern carving, the nameplate on the stern (finished) and the leaves at the catheads. That stuff is a might harder than the pear I was originally going to use.  I will probably also use it for the leaves on the quarter gallery drops.

[mtaylor]

Will do, Janos.   I'm working on the main carving (and probably in over my head  ) while letting glue dry on the planking.

[druxey]

Crown supplies Castello Boxwood, not the European variety. However, I find it carves very well.

[mtaylor]

Ah, but they do, Druxey.  http://www.crowntimberyard.com/custom-orders.php    Bottom row, next to the redheart.  Jason got a pile (maybe a small one, I'm not sure) in and it's nice wood.  Very nice.

[piratepete007]

Mark,

I have not really tried any serious carving before but would like to. In your earlier comment about sacrificial wood as a supporting base for the carving and then removed by soaking in alcohol, what glue would you use ?

 

Pete

[Chuck]

Look at the center carving on the contemporary model of Winchelsea...might give you some indication.  The center carving on this model I think is a little heavy.  I will be giving it more depth but maybe 5/64" at most at 1:64 scale and if possibly 1/16" thick if you can do it.

 

[mtaylor]

Pete,

I use PVA. 

 

Chuck,

Thanks for that.  I'm about ready to attack this carving for real, so based on what everyone says, I'm going to re-cut it from 1/16" material.

Edited December 12, 2015 by mtaylor

[piratepete007]

Mark, thanks for the advice re PVA glue. I am keen to try the transom carving for the Euromodel 'Derfflinger' so I followed your link to Crown Timber and European Boxwood. Have just asked for a quote to Australia and I suspect the shipping will outweigh the cost of timber !!! Photo is attached. Overall dimensions are 45 x 50 mm.

Pete

[mtaylor]

That would make a beautiful carving, Pete. Here's the piece I'm focusing on... I've re-cut it on the laser using thinner wood than before.  Bas-relief will be applied next.  It's some Euro Box from Crown that is now laminated to a piece of basswood so I can handle it.

 

Edited December 13, 2015 by mtaylor

[piratepete007]

Brian,

Thanks for the suggestions. Huon pine I have had some experience with. Easy to carve but a little open grained and soft ? Silky oak I am guessing would be of a much harder texture and close-grained ? Have you (or anybody else reading this) ever used that for fine carving ?

Pete

[piratepete007]

Brian,

Thanks for your kind offer and I will keep that in mind !

 

Janos,

I went to your posting on Maritime Carvings and both impressed and bewildered. What great works of art you have created but where do I really start on my little project (above photo) ? The timber I can get and the necessary expertise and experience I can acquire over time BUT where do I start ? Obviously I need a range of basic tools and a text or two to start browsing in for some hints. Can you please give me some suggestions or at the very least give me some links to get me started ? Anything would be appreciated.

Pete

Edited December 14, 2015 by piratepete007

[mtaylor]

Pete,

 

This might get you started:   http://www.dlumberyard.com/articles.html

And then there's Bill Short's book if you really want to jump in with both feet:  http://carvingbook.weebly.com/

 

The Lumberyard link will get you started anyway.

 

As for tools,..

Simplest is x-acto blades and/or scalpels.   Power..  dremel carving bits and/or dental burs.  I need a magnifier, some people don't. 

 

Oh... and a heavy dose of patience, focus, and willingness to start over. An adult beverage after a carving session helps also, I find.

[piratepete007]

Mark & Janos

Thanks for taking the time to reply so quickly. I also heard from Crown Timberyard this morning and the costs are within what I anticipated. Your comments and links much appreciated but pardon my sheer ignorance - what is 'gingerbread decoration' ? I assume that that is where a thin piece is glued on to a backing board ?

Pete