Lady Nelson by Holty - Amati/Victory Models - Scale 1:64

[Kensw]

Thanks for the build log Holty. I am just getting to the first plank on my Lady Nelson and I must say am a bit intimidated, if not outright fearful but your log gives me courage! I know part of my problem is I'm referencing two different practicums and the kit instructions on planking and I'm running myself in circles as they are all slightly different in details. I'm curious, on the first planking did you start per the kit instruction from under the bulwark down, alternating sides every few or establish bands, measurement tables for shaping, etc?

Ken

[Holty]

Hi Ken,

 

I was exactly the same, its almost like there is too much Info. In the end I went Bulwark down and I did most reducing by eye as I could not get my head round the measuring etc. As I went along it became obvious how its done but a little too late to do properlly for this build. I knew mine would be painted too so I was concentrating on getting the exposed planks right and the rest as smooth as I could.

 

It is definately a case of learning the hard way, I just took a deep breath and did it the best I could.

 

Good luck, I hope you find it as rewarding as I am, Im already itching to do a second!

[Kensw]

I finally realized if I didn't just jump in I'd never start so I'm 3 planks down one side and 4 the other. Some clinkering for sure, but nothing I can't salvage yet. Starting to run into problem getting the concept of stealers down as I think I'm at a place it would be appropriate or else I'll really be twisting things up. It's definitely a steep learning curve and I've sworn to not turn it into toothpicks! Just trying to keep focused on the end game and learn lessons to serve me later with the Fair American waiting in the wings. Curious what you used for filler; was it a wallboard type or more wood type? I'll definitely be needing plenty, but I also think it will save the day on the first layer. Wish I would have understood better the bearding line concept and employed it though. Certainly will next time, as well as setting up the bands, measuring and trimming appropriately. Now I've done it the hard way the right way makes more sense finally!

Ken

Edited May 23, 2013 by Kensw

[Holty]

Sorry for the lack of updates, I been busy with one thing and another and also I had a set back on the decking. I had so much trouble finding a pen the did not bleed to represent the caulking and realised after completing almost half that it looked pretty ropey. I started again and found a pen that did the job, I looked at the one another member used so I ended up sourcing from the US (hence the delay updating).

 

If anyone knows of a source for a good marker that doesnt bleed in the UK I would really appreciate it.

 

The only thing that Im not so keen on is there is a slight colour difference on the port and starboard sides but I am definately not doing a third time!

 

I have also represented trenails with just a 0.1 fine point pen, I figured it would bleed slightly so I considered this. Im quite pleased with the result but it could use another coat of varnish.

 

The Bulwark capping rails were pretty easy to fit but I could have got them a little straighter.

 

I do have an issue fitting the plate on which the name will rest (sorry cant remember the name) but I will post another update re. this as I have no idea how to fix!

 

Thanks  for looking in

 

Holty

[Kensw]

Excellent job so far Holty! You should be quite proud of this. I've been a little sidetracked feeding my vintage analog stereo equipment/vinyl addiction, but have the first planking completed, one side filled and sanded. Been able to salvage all my foul-ups by patching, filling and sanding. Hoping I've learned enough to make at least the visible unpainted parts of second planking acceptable. I'm wondering how you established the waterline location; I've looked at all of the plan drawings and haven't seen the location referenced anywhere.

Ken

[Holty]

Hi Ken, thanks for looking in, funny enough I been looking in to a vintage record player, all this digital nonsense has taken the beauty out of records. I'm going old skool

[Holty]

By the way my waterline is a bit skewed but okay for first go. Like I said the marking seemed okay but the masking I found difficult. I'm honestly not sure how to help but was lovely spraying on the white. I think an airbrusher would be a real help, I think sheet 2 shows the water line

Edited July 16, 2013 by Holty

[Kensw]

So basically you just eyeballed and set the waterline where it appeared to look right or did you find a specific location reference to it somewhere?

And once you go analog and vinyl, you will never want to hear a CD again:))

[Holty]

It's the crackle! I looked at the second (maybe third) plan and it shows the line so I just measured down from the bulwark. It's best to leave it until the wale and capping rail etc is in. I rushed a little when I was at this stage, I needed to see how it would look as I was close to tears after trying out staining. It turned out alright though, have to be a bit bold.

[Kensw]

Agreed; courage, and lots of it, is the order of the day in this business!

Ken

[Lecsandro]

Looks great!

[Holty]

I did not forsee any issues fitting this but I realise that it doesnt look like a comfortable fit at all. Im wondering if I need to bend this somehow? Or do I need to try and file down until I get the fit? Im a bit baffled as to how to get this on.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Im also confused by the keel, the Instructions suggest using the 1mm wire however at this size it would not fit through the rudder straps?

 

Im a bit stuck!

[tkay11]

Yes, you need to bend it. There are lots of ways of doing this. I did mine by soaking in hot water and then very gently bending it with my hands.

 

Tony

[Kensw]

When I've gotten into stuff like that before in other building, I laminate another piece to it to make it as thick as the existing voids and then shape the bottom to make the contour. You could also make it even thicker and be able to create the arch across the top if that is more appropriate. Might not be proper, but I usually just do what works and sacrifice a little accuracy in precise technique.

Ken

Edited July 24, 2013 by Kensw

[Bender]

Is the piece made of plywood? And does the grain run left-to-right? If it's not wanting to bend, you might use that piece as a pattern and cut a new piece with the grain running up and down. Then once you have it attached you can then plank the piece. 

Edited July 24, 2013 by Bender

[Ray]

Hi I found a marker pen which did not bleed and have attached a couple of photos I obtained it from www.tigerpens.co.uk they are in wicford Essex.

 

no bleeding on my planking

[Holty]

Guys this is great stuff and thank you, wished I'd not pre painted now but it's relieved a few frustrations. Love this site

[Holty]

P.S. Ray,that's the same pen I imported!Think you have saved me some cash.Lovely

[Holty]

Rudder was a little tricky, since the kit has been updated to include rudder straps, Amati could do with updating their Instructions. 1mm is too big to go through the rudder straps so I had to do a little bit of chopping and gluing. I was going to let the straps stand out a bit but now they are slightly botched, they have been painted white.

 

The Lady Nelson lettering came out okay. I painted the whole lot black and sanded it with a fine grade paper, I then touched in the yellow Ochre. The Walnut strip round the edge had been laser cut badly and it fell apart on one side, I fashioned a fix from some off-cuts and it doesnt look too bad now.

 

As for the swivel gun posts all I can say is Grrrrrrrr!!! Ive split 3 trying to get a 1.5mm hole through them. I have graded up the drilling but they are so brittle. Probably need sme painting first or something?

 

Next update will be deck furnishing, I have done a little already and for once it is going okay!

 

Concerned by putting a nail through the channels too, I can see some damage on the horizon

 

 

[tkay11]

Nice to see the stern so beautifully painted. As to the posts for the swivel guns, if you mean the wooden bases I haven't yet started on them in my own build, but it just may be that a coating of dilute PVA would give them enough solidity if they remain brittle. Otherwise you might make your own from an old boxwood ruler, or use some turning blanks of pear or apple that you can pick up very cheaply from eBay. I've been making a few bits and pieces from such blanks and they're definitely more easy to work with than the walnut that is supplied with the kit. The only thing is that you'd then have to think about staining or painting.

 

You can see what I mean at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wood-Turning-Pen-Blanks-Pear-Yew-Walnut-Acacia-Spalted-Beech-Apple-etc-/350696238450?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&var=&hash=item51a71fed72.

Tony

[Holty]

Thanks Tony, great advice. I'm through with the kit supplied posts, them coupled with the stern fascia border leads me to think that the laser cutter had a few bevvies before supplying my kit. Still, I do love the kit, it's great for learning (oft times the hard way).

[Holty]

Is it me or is Boxwood the ship builders dream material? I will invest in my next build, not to mention research more. This build is all about the learning. PS I'm loving every minute

[tkay11]

I made some 1.7mm blocks from an old boxwood 36" ruler I bought on eBay for £3. I still have most of the ruler, and it was a real joy to make the blocks from it. However, when I tried the pear and the apple blanks the result was about the same.

 

If you're thinking of boxwood, then the rulers you can find on eBay are fairly expensive if you think in terms of cubic mm, and certainly very much more expensive than pear or apple. The cheapest boxwood in cu mm terms that I can find on eBay is the 'Pack of ten Premium French Boxwood Pen Blanks for turning' for £15.50. But I think you can find it cheaper if you want 0.7mm sheets as these are found in marquetry suppliers, and there are some UK timber merchants that do boxwood (e.g. Timberline in Kent). I'll probably stick to pear and apple for the moment as I develop my skills and experience -- I still have a long way to go on that score!

 

Tony

[Holty]

Cheers Tony, amazing how resourceful modellers can be. Never thought of rulers!

Just looked in on your Sherbourne, it's looking very slick. impressed by your block making.

Edited August 23, 2013 by Holty

[Holty]

Excuse the dark picture was a little bit dark on Sunday. I have started making up some of the furnishings, I loved making up the deck gratings. I washed them in some diluted PVA once I had put them together and it seemed to work well. The cutting to shape I found a little tricky (must Invest in some more tools). I would have liked to arc them slightly but I will save this for next time.

 

The companionway made up fairly easily, I think on a second model I would have Invested a little in some nicer handles and hinges but overall I am fairly pleased. Getting used to cutting, sanding and drilling, seem to be getting a little bit more confident.

 

Flicked ahead in the Instructions and had a little look at the Bowsprit. How on earth I am going to shape it without a lathe at the moment is beyond me and if I had a lathe I wouldnt know how to use it!

 

The Instructions also make no mention of rigging the cannons so I need to research the rigging and work out the size of thread I would need and the length. I want to get the Cannons and eyelets in before I start gluing down the furnishings.

 

Thanks for looking in

[tkay11]

If you have an electric drill this can be used quite nicely to form the basis of a kind of lathe. Quite a few people on this forum have done so, as have I. Hubert Sicard on his site 'Wooden Ship Modeling for Dummies' provides an excellent video on how to do this. You have to pay $40 Canadian Dollars for life membership of his site, but I and many others have found it one of the best resources on the web -- especially for those of us who do not have expensive electrical and motorised equipment. He provides hundreds of very imaginative ideas on the use of simple tools and how to approach the various aspects of ship model building.

 

The site is also in French and it is slightly better to access it in French as the English translation is sometimes a bit confusing. But all the videos are without sound and are very self-explanatory.

 

Strongly recommended. Nay, advised!

 

Tony

[Holty]

Thanks Tony, payday tomorrow so I think I will invest.

[Anja]

Hello Marc,

 

Happy birthday. Enjoy it and have a great day.

 

Anja

[Bettina]

Just wanted to say what a great job you have done on the stern and the Lady Nelson lettering. I am doing my own Lady Nelson at present and I followed your advice re paining and sanding and it came out a treat, so just wanted to say thanks for the great log and pics, all the best, Bettina

[Sailor1234567890]

Any updates? Bettina, do you have a log as well? Trying to find as many LN logs so I can see what I'm getting into and hopefully learn from them all.