HMS Triton cross section - FINISHED - by G.L. Scale 1:24

[G.L.]

A cross section is in fact a slice of a ship which is sawn out of it. I want to up light all the kerfs by painting them in red. On the lower deck a piece of deck remained to  support the stairs, where the deck is cut, the kerf is painted in red.

[G.L.]

Now the gun deck structure has to be re-puzzled. I start with the gun deck stanchions. They will be kept on position by a bamboo pin on the foot and at the top. The deck beams are glued on top of them.

[G.L.]

When the glue has dried. It is the turn of the knees.

[G.L.]

When the pinchers can be removed, I place the carlings.

[G.L.]

Tree nailing the carlings.

[G.L.]

Now the ledges can be glued.

[G.L.]

Finally the sanding.

[G.L.]

Gun deck structure finished.

[Derek C]

Wow that looks really clean . Beautiful work G.L.

[G.L.]

On ‎24‎-‎11‎-‎2017 at 4:40 PM, Derek C said:

Wow that looks really clean . Beautiful work G.L.

Glad You like it.

Thank you , Dereck

[G.L.]

I will now make the forward hatch ladder. Because there is always a slight difference between the plans and the execution of those plans, I take the dimensions of the ladder immediately from the model.

[G.L.]

The stringers are 2.5 mm thick, so I plane two planks to that thickness (2 because there have to be made 2 stringers in mirror image). I set my table saw for a thickness of ±1.2 mm and saw the grooves for the steps. Some time ago I made a simple table saw sled on which I glued a piece of millimeter paper, that makes it easy to saw the groves exactly parallel and with the correct intervals.

[G.L.]

I saw the stringers out of the planks in the angle I determined before on the model.

[G.L.]

I check them out on the model.

[G.L.]

To glue them together, I use a very simple jig of some strips of wood held parallel with clamps on the correct intervals.

[G.L.]

Before the glue is entirely dry, I place the ladder in to his position in the model (not yet gluing it fast), so the glue can harden further while the ladder has its final shape.

[G.L.]

Before gluing the ladder in to its spot, I color it with dark stain. On the picture you see the bitts which I colored simultaneously.

[G.L.]

Ladder finally in position, darkened and varnished.

[Derek C]

The ladder looks great ,I will try to use your technique when I get that far .thanks for the detailed post.

Derek

[G.L.]

I will now make the gun deck hatches, starting with the grating for the after hatch.

[G.L.]

I make the grating in walnut because it is a better wood than oak to saw out little pieces. I start to saw 3x3 mm thick planks and I glue them together with a drip of wood glue at each end. Like this they form a 3 mm thick plank.

[G.L.]

On my Proxxon saw table I like to use a table saw sledge on which a millimeter paper is glued with the 0 mm line exactly on the saw blade edge. With the help of that sledge it is easy to saw 3 mm wide grooves of 1.5 mm deep at 3 mm intervals.

[G.L.]

In the grooves I glue 3 mm wide and 1.5 mm thick laths.            
I start at the outsides and form the grating on a piece of mm paper to be able to glue the laths at 3 mm interspaces

[G.L.]

All the pieces put together.

[G.L.]

As you can see, I made the grating a bit larger than needed just in case it wouldn't be fully intact. I will wait until the hatch is made to size it to the correct dimensions.

[G.L.]

Sawing the coamings for the hatches.

[G.L.]

I glue them together using the same piece of millimeter paper as before to obtain right angles. I let the glue of the hatches dry with some weights on top of them. On completion I check them on the cross section.

[G.L.]

Raw hatch and grating

[G.L.]

Finishing the hatches with sand paper.

[G.L.]

To tailor the grating, I transfer the inner sizes of the hatch on a piece of paper and position that paper on the grating with some paper glue.