USS Constitution by Michael G - Revell - Scale 1:96 - PLASTIC - Newbie Build!

[Michael G]

 The lighting is installed!  The pictures are not great, but you get the point.  I  still need to determine what I'll do for dampening the lights. Thank you for the suggestions. Most  of them are fine, but a few are placed in a manner in which they are too obvious, like in the cabin. 

 

The other thing I need to do before I go further is a base. Any thoughts on  that? What have others done? A block of wood at Home Depot (I don't have any fancy saws or cutting tools)?  I thought maybe I could find a decorative base and drill up through the bottom. Any input welcome. 

[lambsbk]

If you installed the nuts into the hull when you glued the 2 halves together the choices are limitless. If not then pedestal mounts.

 

Dave

[Michael G]

8 minutes ago, lambsbk said:

If you installed the nuts into the hull when you glued the 2 halves together the choices are limitless. If not then pedestal mounts.

 

Dave

I did! Any cool ideas? Keep in mind this is my first project of this nature (other than the smaller Revell USS United States), and I am not yet terribly handy if I compare to some of the other pretty amazing builds I've seen. 

[lambsbk]

You can use anything that the bolts will traverse. I think mine will be through brass tubes surrounded by a plexiglass tobe cut to match the hull and keel outline. Since I have fiber optics mid-keel I will need 3 tubes total. Let your imagination run with it...

 

Dave

[Michael G]

Has anybody dealt with plastic pieces that are slightly warped? I'm wanting to move onto the spar deck, but the front of the 3 pieces has a slight twist to it. It's frustrating me, and I'm concerned about it. I've currently got some weights sitting on it, and I ran a hair dryer over it quite a bit, trying to straighten it, but I'm not sure it's working.

 

Any tips?

[lambsbk]

Can you show us a pic?

 

[lmagna]

Hello Michael

I am not certain which part you are referring to but I have had some good results in the past using hot water. Not boiling hot but hot enough to make putting your hand in it uncovered uncomfortable. You can wear gloves and start reforming the part while still under water then hold it in place after you pull it out and let it cool.

 

You can pratice with a piece of sprue to get the method down and be comfortable with it. 

 

Lou   

[Michael G]

 It looks like the weights I put on this overnight actually helped a little bit. I had heated it up with a hairdryer and then set them on top of it. Here's some pictures though, as it appears to still have a bit of a twist to it. It may not be a big deal now, but I am also may try the very hot water approach.

[lambsbk]

I agree. The hot water should work. I would be very cautious with a hair dryer. The plastic usually melts at 250 degrees give or take and temp is hard to control with the dryer (i.e. warpage). Good luck.

[Michael G]

I feel like an update is in order. I'm still here! My wife started a new job, school started back up, and things have just been nuts. The only thing I've managed in the past 2 months is getting the spar deck pieces cemented together and painted. That was following the completion of the lights in the cabin and along the gun deck. I need to find a pedestal to mount to before going much further. 

 

Anyway, I haven't given up or anything. I'll be back! 

 

 

[Michael G]

For anybody following this, I am giving another update. My ship build has been on hiatus due to personal/family circumstances. My office space has been completely taken over (that's where I'm building it). It looks at me every day wondering when I will get back to it, and the answer is soon enough, but I still am at a point where I can't do much.

 

So the build has not been forgotten and it has not been scrapped. I hate that I've been on hold for so long. I often wondered how people's build logs could have such huge gaps in them....now I know!

 

Thanks for following, and see you soon!

[Cpt Jack Sparrow]

Coming along nicely.  This kit was my first build back in the late 70's

[popeye the sailor]

to think about it,  it hasn't been that long........just look at some of the other projects.   some of mine are over a year old!  I recently acquired this kit.....bought it for the unbelievable price of $15.00!  modeling has always been a leisurely thing.....and its not supposed to be a race.   take care of your family and life issues first...we'll always be here waiting for your return.  I'll be following along  

[lambsbk]

I agree with Denis. In fact I have not been able to get back to mine in well over half a year. I have to buy fresh glue whenever I make progress.

[EZ DUZ IT]

Michael I am in the same boat. Been many years. Alwanted to build the 3' version of the HMS Victory. 

I'm starting with the 1/220 scale cutty sark. Like you I want a fabulous boat. Just don't know how many months to paint and assemble. 

It's not the destination, it's the journey!!!

[historyguysteve]

Welcome on board with the Revell Constitution!!! I see you are having trouble with the deck, hmmmmm , I wonder where I've heard that before??? So, some common solutions; REMEMBER to look several steps ahead and make immediate decisions with future steps in mind. Specifically, the deck may be warped and you may be able to fix it, however there is no real satisfactory way to solve the obvious join line going across the deck. That line has driven MANY a modeler nuts in the past. Solution, there are several producers who make aftermarket wood veneer deck applications specific to the Connie. Some are a little mmmmmm pricey. Alternatively go to the local hobby shop or internet around and get a sheet of 1/32 plywood. Carefully map out all of the features on the deck, transfer them to the sheet, use a SHARP pencil to draw on planks, CAREFULLY cut the deck out of the sheet, apply it to the plastic deck (use super glue gel not the thin stuff or 2 part epoxy spread really really thin) and you have a deck that looks GREAT and looks like wood ummm because it IS wood. This in turn solves a LOT of problems - the warp, the seam and any mold faults. A simple upgrade that I think will encourage you to proceed! 

   Consider continuing this upgrade to the masts and spars. Wood dowels can be sanded down the the contours you need for any specific mast or spar, just use the plastic part for a template. The advantage is great appearance and resilience- the plastic is very prone to breaking at the WORST possible moment. Consider that by the time you clean up mold lines and construct the part, you could have done it in wood.  The bowsprit is an excellent candidate for this simple, inexpensive upgrade.

   Finally, get a few books on the subject, there are MANY out there. The challenge (FUN) is figuring out how to miniaturize the way the sailors did a task and applying that to the model. The Revell Constitution is an excellent representation of the actual ship and deserves/rewards the builder. HAVE FUN  That is the purpose of this hobby! 

    Thanks (veteran of several Connie/United States builds)

     Steve (History guy Steve)

[Pagecarl]

I have not modeled for 50+ years but re-entered the world with the Constitution 1:96.

 

I am nearing completion, mostly happy but with some lessons learned.  I have ended with one question unresolved.

 

Can anyone tell me - the six “ropes” which are installed early in the build and extend from the sides of the hill just above the bottom deck, three on each side.  Where do they connect?’

 

I have two sets of instructions.  Neither address these ropes.  I have looked at a hundred pictures of completed builds and cannot see these ropes.

 

Help!