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historyguysteve

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  1. Ah-HAAAHHH! This is the old 1/96 Sea Witch made by Lindbergh- I know because this exact model is on the shelf just about 3 feet away from me. I recognized her the minute I clapped eyes to her. She is well worth saving! You were not looking for advice , so..... I'll just give you some. The plastic upper masts and yards were EXTREMELY brittle when new. The model has been out of production for over 40 years. So, the masts and yard really cannot be salvaged- they will not respond properly to ANY glue; the plastic is chemically unstable and will not hold up. Use the yards/masts as templates for woo
  2. Hi So far great job on this kit- I have this in my stash so I'm really happy to see a build log on this. A piece of advice; use the plastic masts/yards as templates for wooden ones. Just replace the plastic with wood. The reason why (ask me how I know) the plastic is already 20-30 years old and will get really brittle and positively will fail and at the WORST possible time. 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤔Also consider this; by the time you reinforce the masts/spars, sand them to get rid of the seams and paint them and place them you could have used a dowel, shaped it and have a MUCH better outcome long te
  3. WOW... You really are cooking along with this model. It is really great to see someone do a scientific kit. They are reasonably accurate, fairly simple, yet result in a good representation of the ship at hand are of a great display size. I have this exact kit in my 'stash' and I really pleased that your building it. You will need to figure out some solution to belaying pins and pin rails, Scientific does have some shortfalls mostly due to scale and simplicity. A good reference for better rigging will also be beneficial as their rigging plan is way oversimplified.Great job!! steve
  4. Hi Here is a little tip on weathering the deck. You've got to use pastels. They are pretty inexpensive, just get a small set that has the browns/greys that you might use. Get some cheap make up brushes or even the little nylon/plastic brushes you see and reject at the hobby store. Scrape off some of the pastel into a pile, chop it up really fine and apply with a brush. It is possible to airbrush clear flat as a fixative but be sparing or you may warp the wood deck,(Hint: that would be bad). Colored pencils might work as well but I find it difficult to get them chopped up fine enough
  5. I agree with Grampa Phil above. You have a large model so some creativity is involved but heat up the hull in really hot water for some considerable time not less than 5 minutes or so. Have a piece of really flat, strong material and lots and lots of clamps and rubber bands ready. If possible clamp the hull to the flat surface first, then immerse. Another tip for the small parts. Put a small amount of superglue into the hole or on an edge of a part that has been broken off, right away tip on some baking powder. The mix will set up rapidly and become really hard- harder than the surrounding res
  6. You didn't ask for my advice , so... I'll just give it to you 😇 😇Strongly consider replacing the masts and spars with wood. The plastic stuff will get brittle and therefore delicate over time. The LAST thing you want is the be very nearly finished and bust a topgallant or the jib boom! (ask me how I know) Actual wood is readily available and when you consider the prep time necessary to make the plastic spars look good (filling ejector marks, removing mold lines) you could have wood masts and spars that look really good, are more robust by far and provide a strong sense of accomplishment. Also
  7. I'm must confess, I learned a lot on this build log. But.... if I was a-fishing and caught a fish that looked like this vessel..... I would quietly throw it back into the drink. And I would never discuss it with anyone. I find it very surprising that the maker of the kit chose this subject- gutsy or foolish I cannot tell but evidently a well designed effort!!! Great job on the model. Steve
  8. These Scientific models are really underrated. With a little time and effort, and with even modest modelling skill these kits can be turned into real masterworks. I have this exact kit, so I'm looking forward to seeing the build. Have Fun is my motto- the best ship model is the completed one!
  9. Hi Sorry i did not respond sooner As EJ_L suggested above, pin rails are shelf structures that hold belaying pins so that the rigging aloft can be secured at deck level. Channels are OUTBOARD of the hull and provide a place for the shroud/ratline s to be secured.On Sea Witch you have to construct pin rail INBOARD of the hull roughly in the same place as the channels. At this scale (roughly 1/287) you can use actual sewing pins as belaying pins. The first pin hole should be roughly even with the leading edge of the mast. Simply place a ruler across the hull lined up to the hole indicati
  10. Allow me to give you a small piece of advice based on experience. Start planning on pin rails. Scientific usually does not provide references or material for in board pin rails, and as it turns out YOU WILL NEED THEM. The best time to figure out where they go, how to make reasonably accurate pins and get it all installed is right about now in the build. What you want to avoid is getting all of the deck furniture in, some of the lower masts and realize you have exactly no place to tie off rigging. just trying to help thanks Steve
  11. I concur-the BEST model is the COMPLETED model; and with grampa too!! It don't GET no better than that!!! cheeeeerrrs! may the wind always be at your back!
  12. Looking forward to following you on this journey. These Scientific kits are waaaaayyy underrated. They are inexpensive, reasonably accurate (with even a little research and basic modelling skills they can be made very accurate indeed), and they are a great display size. Looking forward to seeing a completed ship model, which, as it turns out, is the best ship model. steve
  13. Hi Geoff I'm looking in on the build. Great job!!! You are discussing the scale ropes- a serious issue on sailing ships. Look at Cottage Industry Models. They specialize in Civil War Ironclads. I was able to get my hands on the revenue cutter Alexander Hamilton (Samuel B Morris class revenue cutters, USCG.) At any rate they include enough of their handmade rope/cable to complete the model. That stuff is awesome, inexpensive and readily available. You are making your own now and the ropewalk looks cool, but if you get in a bind try the Cottage Industry stuff. thanks Steve
  14. Hi Greg I'm pulling up a seat and watching the build! May I offer a quick suggestion. Go to youtube and view two tutorials. Your patience will be rewarded, they are from two of the best modellers I've ever seen and the tutorials are very professionally done. They are all in Japanese with no subtitles but that really makes no difference. 'Custom SP-16' --> a really outstanding tutorial on the IJN battle cruiser KONGO- juuuuuust take a look. 'Bandai Space Cruiser Yamato' again JUUUUST take a look, your patience will be richly rewarded. These guys are super ninjas when it com
  15. hi Steve, Steve here I'm impressed with the bowsprit and jib boom- excellent work scale in dimension and looks realistic. I knew you would appreciate the ease in replacing key mast, boom and spars with wood it is just so much better. By the way, to finish the wood you will want to use a bit of sanding sealer, otherwise the wood will simply soak up the paint and that may cause the wood grain to emerge. great job, keep up the great work. steve
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