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  1. Hi Here is a little tip on weathering the deck. You've got to use pastels. They are pretty inexpensive, just get a small set that has the browns/greys that you might use. Get some cheap make up brushes or even the little nylon/plastic brushes you see and reject at the hobby store. Scrape off some of the pastel into a pile, chop it up really fine and apply with a brush. It is possible to airbrush clear flat as a fixative but be sparing or you may warp the wood deck,(Hint: that would be bad). Colored pencils might work as well but I find it difficult to get them chopped up fine enough and you definitely don't want streaks especially at this scale. Awesome job on the PE- what a difference that stuff makes!😍
  2. I agree with Grampa Phil above. You have a large model so some creativity is involved but heat up the hull in really hot water for some considerable time not less than 5 minutes or so. Have a piece of really flat, strong material and lots and lots of clamps and rubber bands ready. If possible clamp the hull to the flat surface first, then immerse. Another tip for the small parts. Put a small amount of superglue into the hole or on an edge of a part that has been broken off, right away tip on some baking powder. The mix will set up rapidly and become really hard- harder than the surrounding resin. Then sand to finish. For a larger area or to raise a damaged edge just repeat the process adding layer upon layer. It technique works really well and is structurally sound. Have fun!!! looking forward to seeing the completed ship!
  3. You didn't ask for my advice , so... I'll just give it to you 😇 😇Strongly consider replacing the masts and spars with wood. The plastic stuff will get brittle and therefore delicate over time. The LAST thing you want is the be very nearly finished and bust a topgallant or the jib boom! (ask me how I know) Actual wood is readily available and when you consider the prep time necessary to make the plastic spars look good (filling ejector marks, removing mold lines) you could have wood masts and spars that look really good, are more robust by far and provide a strong sense of accomplishment. Also consider replacing the rope with better quality and blocks with wood- Model shipways is one company among several that can provide wood blocks and deadeyes. The deck can also be planked- use super thin wood and gel super glue. This step will solve the problem of hiding the seperation lines of the 3 part deck. I tell you plainly; these simple upgrades are all out of proportion to the impact and appearance of the completed model. Also 'Fright' above recommended some reference materiel. I wholeheartedly concur. You don't want to get into the model, get hung up on some technical problem and be delayed for lack of readily available(and affordable) reference material. As you may imagine the super people on this site are also eager to help. I think it is important to decide early on just how far down the 'resto-mod' pathway you will go. I feel the best ship model is the completed one. Case in point- there are build logs of the Wanderer whaling ship that shows extensive modifications but the build is proceeding, DAFI is redoing the HMS Victory (Heller) and I've been following it with avid fascination for years now - progress is SLOOOOOWWWW. It is a matter of compromise as in all things. Ultimately HAVE FUN!😆😆😆
  4. I'm must confess, I learned a lot on this build log. But.... if I was a-fishing and caught a fish that looked like this vessel..... I would quietly throw it back into the drink. And I would never discuss it with anyone. I find it very surprising that the maker of the kit chose this subject- gutsy or foolish I cannot tell but evidently a well designed effort!!! Great job on the model. Steve
  5. These Scientific models are really underrated. With a little time and effort, and with even modest modelling skill these kits can be turned into real masterworks. I have this exact kit, so I'm looking forward to seeing the build. Have Fun is my motto- the best ship model is the completed one!
  6. Hi Sorry i did not respond sooner As EJ_L suggested above, pin rails are shelf structures that hold belaying pins so that the rigging aloft can be secured at deck level. Channels are OUTBOARD of the hull and provide a place for the shroud/ratline s to be secured.On Sea Witch you have to construct pin rail INBOARD of the hull roughly in the same place as the channels. At this scale (roughly 1/287) you can use actual sewing pins as belaying pins. The first pin hole should be roughly even with the leading edge of the mast. Simply place a ruler across the hull lined up to the hole indicating mast location, Fore and Main only the mizzen is a special case, place a reference mark on the inside of the hull. The pin rail should have about 12 pins evenly spaced (the real pin rail had about 23 belaying pins) The pins should be long enough to protrude below the pin rail but not so long as to go into the deck. As for the actual construction of the rails itself .... use your common sense- thick enough to be strongly secured to the hull thin enough to be realistic. A very good very inexpensive reference is Charles G Davis (a famous model ship builder who actually captained sailing ships) Ship Models and How to Build Them. Sea Witch is on the cover and many of the references are to a ship contemporary of that era. I hope this helps
  7. Allow me to give you a small piece of advice based on experience. Start planning on pin rails. Scientific usually does not provide references or material for in board pin rails, and as it turns out YOU WILL NEED THEM. The best time to figure out where they go, how to make reasonably accurate pins and get it all installed is right about now in the build. What you want to avoid is getting all of the deck furniture in, some of the lower masts and realize you have exactly no place to tie off rigging. just trying to help thanks Steve
  8. I concur-the BEST model is the COMPLETED model; and with grampa too!! It don't GET no better than that!!! cheeeeerrrs! may the wind always be at your back!
  9. Looking forward to following you on this journey. These Scientific kits are waaaaayyy underrated. They are inexpensive, reasonably accurate (with even a little research and basic modelling skills they can be made very accurate indeed), and they are a great display size. Looking forward to seeing a completed ship model, which, as it turns out, is the best ship model. steve
  10. Hi Geoff I'm looking in on the build. Great job!!! You are discussing the scale ropes- a serious issue on sailing ships. Look at Cottage Industry Models. They specialize in Civil War Ironclads. I was able to get my hands on the revenue cutter Alexander Hamilton (Samuel B Morris class revenue cutters, USCG.) At any rate they include enough of their handmade rope/cable to complete the model. That stuff is awesome, inexpensive and readily available. You are making your own now and the ropewalk looks cool, but if you get in a bind try the Cottage Industry stuff. thanks Steve
  11. Hi Greg I'm pulling up a seat and watching the build! May I offer a quick suggestion. Go to youtube and view two tutorials. Your patience will be rewarded, they are from two of the best modellers I've ever seen and the tutorials are very professionally done. They are all in Japanese with no subtitles but that really makes no difference. 'Custom SP-16' --> a really outstanding tutorial on the IJN battle cruiser KONGO- juuuuuust take a look. 'Bandai Space Cruiser Yamato' again JUUUUST take a look, your patience will be richly rewarded. These guys are super ninjas when it comes to detailing and solving problems that occur with the model kit and detract from important details. Even if you do not personally pick up any new tips the results these guys achieve is phenominal and inspirational. thanks Steve
  12. hi Steve, Steve here I'm impressed with the bowsprit and jib boom- excellent work scale in dimension and looks realistic. I knew you would appreciate the ease in replacing key mast, boom and spars with wood it is just so much better. By the way, to finish the wood you will want to use a bit of sanding sealer, otherwise the wood will simply soak up the paint and that may cause the wood grain to emerge. great job, keep up the great work. steve
  13. WOW that clear deck is both gutsy and innovative- truly one-of-a-kind!! I say develop this idea until you are comfortable with it and go for it. Kudos for thinking out of the box. You will certainly be able to show off all of the work done on the gun deck. thanks steve
  14. Welcome to the MSW Site- the single most awesome website for reference and support for what we do-. Keep up the great work- I am right in the middle of connies sister ship--- United States- same molds with a few changes. Understanding the cost restraints allow me to make a suggestion that is inexpensive, solves A LOT of problems and looks great too. Go to your favorite hobby shop- they are out there, in the US, Michaels or Hobby Lobby. Look for 1/32 or 1/64 sheet of plywood, either birch or sometimes walnut. The come in large enough sheets so that one sheet will be as long as the deck. Glue up the decks but be prepared to do some surgery. Use the deck as a template to cut out a copy of the deck from the thin plywood. Cut out the major deck fitting, hatches and so forth out of the plywood. Keep adjusting and test fitting until the wood deck will fit over the plastic one- excersize you patience you will be rewarded. Once its all set use superglue to attach the wood deck to the plastic one--> USE THE THICK GEL TYPE SUPERGLUE!! The thin stuff will simply wick up into the wood and spoil everything. Clamp the crap out of and let it cure. MANY problems will be solved- no need to paint (you can draw lines onto it using a sharp pencil or appropriate pen to represent planks) No need to deal with the inevitable seams on the plastic deck, and it looks like wood because it is wood- you will be amazed. Use a variation of the technique on the masts and spars- the old plastic is brittle and will deform and break at the WORST possible moment when you go to rig the girl, wood is MUCH stronger and will hold up to rigging. I hope this helps steve
  15. Peter is correct, the plans are indicating 'gammoning' Also they are not chain, they should be tarred (black or very dark brown) rope. Also another side note, you probably already know this, The Cutty Sark was composite build - some structural elements were wood others iron. I am almost certain that the bowsprit stump was iron, use the strongest stuff you can employ for the bowsprit and jib boom, you don't want a breakage at the last moment when all of the rigging is done and you're just about to put her on the display shelf, ask me how I know. :) Great job - these scientific models are inexpensive, a great display size and fairly accurate, I'm surprised they are not more popular on MSW. steve

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