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  1. You didn't ask for my advice , so... I'll just give it to you 😇 😇Strongly consider replacing the masts and spars with wood. The plastic stuff will get brittle and therefore delicate over time. The LAST thing you want is the be very nearly finished and bust a topgallant or the jib boom! (ask me how I know) Actual wood is readily available and when you consider the prep time necessary to make the plastic spars look good (filling ejector marks, removing mold lines) you could have wood masts and spars that look really good, are more robust by far and provide a strong sense of accomplishment. Also consider replacing the rope with better quality and blocks with wood- Model shipways is one company among several that can provide wood blocks and deadeyes. The deck can also be planked- use super thin wood and gel super glue. This step will solve the problem of hiding the seperation lines of the 3 part deck. I tell you plainly; these simple upgrades are all out of proportion to the impact and appearance of the completed model. Also 'Fright' above recommended some reference materiel. I wholeheartedly concur. You don't want to get into the model, get hung up on some technical problem and be delayed for lack of readily available(and affordable) reference material. As you may imagine the super people on this site are also eager to help. I think it is important to decide early on just how far down the 'resto-mod' pathway you will go. I feel the best ship model is the completed one. Case in point- there are build logs of the Wanderer whaling ship that shows extensive modifications but the build is proceeding, DAFI is redoing the HMS Victory (Heller) and I've been following it with avid fascination for years now - progress is SLOOOOOWWWW. It is a matter of compromise as in all things. Ultimately HAVE FUN!😆😆😆
  2. I'm must confess, I learned a lot on this build log. But.... if I was a-fishing and caught a fish that looked like this vessel..... I would quietly throw it back into the drink. And I would never discuss it with anyone. I find it very surprising that the maker of the kit chose this subject- gutsy or foolish I cannot tell but evidently a well designed effort!!! Great job on the model. Steve
  3. These Scientific models are really underrated. With a little time and effort, and with even modest modelling skill these kits can be turned into real masterworks. I have this exact kit, so I'm looking forward to seeing the build. Have Fun is my motto- the best ship model is the completed one!
  4. Hi Sorry i did not respond sooner As EJ_L suggested above, pin rails are shelf structures that hold belaying pins so that the rigging aloft can be secured at deck level. Channels are OUTBOARD of the hull and provide a place for the shroud/ratline s to be secured.On Sea Witch you have to construct pin rail INBOARD of the hull roughly in the same place as the channels. At this scale (roughly 1/287) you can use actual sewing pins as belaying pins. The first pin hole should be roughly even with the leading edge of the mast. Simply place a ruler across the hull lined up to the hole indicating mast location, Fore and Main only the mizzen is a special case, place a reference mark on the inside of the hull. The pin rail should have about 12 pins evenly spaced (the real pin rail had about 23 belaying pins) The pins should be long enough to protrude below the pin rail but not so long as to go into the deck. As for the actual construction of the rails itself .... use your common sense- thick enough to be strongly secured to the hull thin enough to be realistic. A very good very inexpensive reference is Charles G Davis (a famous model ship builder who actually captained sailing ships) Ship Models and How to Build Them. Sea Witch is on the cover and many of the references are to a ship contemporary of that era. I hope this helps
  5. Allow me to give you a small piece of advice based on experience. Start planning on pin rails. Scientific usually does not provide references or material for in board pin rails, and as it turns out YOU WILL NEED THEM. The best time to figure out where they go, how to make reasonably accurate pins and get it all installed is right about now in the build. What you want to avoid is getting all of the deck furniture in, some of the lower masts and realize you have exactly no place to tie off rigging. just trying to help thanks Steve
  6. I concur-the BEST model is the COMPLETED model; and with grampa too!! It don't GET no better than that!!! cheeeeerrrs! may the wind always be at your back!
  7. Looking forward to following you on this journey. These Scientific kits are waaaaayyy underrated. They are inexpensive, reasonably accurate (with even a little research and basic modelling skills they can be made very accurate indeed), and they are a great display size. Looking forward to seeing a completed ship model, which, as it turns out, is the best ship model. steve
  8. Hi Geoff I'm looking in on the build. Great job!!! You are discussing the scale ropes- a serious issue on sailing ships. Look at Cottage Industry Models. They specialize in Civil War Ironclads. I was able to get my hands on the revenue cutter Alexander Hamilton (Samuel B Morris class revenue cutters, USCG.) At any rate they include enough of their handmade rope/cable to complete the model. That stuff is awesome, inexpensive and readily available. You are making your own now and the ropewalk looks cool, but if you get in a bind try the Cottage Industry stuff. thanks Steve
  9. Hi Greg I'm pulling up a seat and watching the build! May I offer a quick suggestion. Go to youtube and view two tutorials. Your patience will be rewarded, they are from two of the best modellers I've ever seen and the tutorials are very professionally done. They are all in Japanese with no subtitles but that really makes no difference. 'Custom SP-16' --> a really outstanding tutorial on the IJN battle cruiser KONGO- juuuuuust take a look. 'Bandai Space Cruiser Yamato' again JUUUUST take a look, your patience will be richly rewarded. These guys are super ninjas when it comes to detailing and solving problems that occur with the model kit and detract from important details. Even if you do not personally pick up any new tips the results these guys achieve is phenominal and inspirational. thanks Steve
  10. hi Steve, Steve here I'm impressed with the bowsprit and jib boom- excellent work scale in dimension and looks realistic. I knew you would appreciate the ease in replacing key mast, boom and spars with wood it is just so much better. By the way, to finish the wood you will want to use a bit of sanding sealer, otherwise the wood will simply soak up the paint and that may cause the wood grain to emerge. great job, keep up the great work. steve
  11. WOW that clear deck is both gutsy and innovative- truly one-of-a-kind!! I say develop this idea until you are comfortable with it and go for it. Kudos for thinking out of the box. You will certainly be able to show off all of the work done on the gun deck. thanks steve
  12. Welcome to the MSW Site- the single most awesome website for reference and support for what we do-. Keep up the great work- I am right in the middle of connies sister ship--- United States- same molds with a few changes. Understanding the cost restraints allow me to make a suggestion that is inexpensive, solves A LOT of problems and looks great too. Go to your favorite hobby shop- they are out there, in the US, Michaels or Hobby Lobby. Look for 1/32 or 1/64 sheet of plywood, either birch or sometimes walnut. The come in large enough sheets so that one sheet will be as long as the deck. Glue up the decks but be prepared to do some surgery. Use the deck as a template to cut out a copy of the deck from the thin plywood. Cut out the major deck fitting, hatches and so forth out of the plywood. Keep adjusting and test fitting until the wood deck will fit over the plastic one- excersize you patience you will be rewarded. Once its all set use superglue to attach the wood deck to the plastic one--> USE THE THICK GEL TYPE SUPERGLUE!! The thin stuff will simply wick up into the wood and spoil everything. Clamp the crap out of and let it cure. MANY problems will be solved- no need to paint (you can draw lines onto it using a sharp pencil or appropriate pen to represent planks) No need to deal with the inevitable seams on the plastic deck, and it looks like wood because it is wood- you will be amazed. Use a variation of the technique on the masts and spars- the old plastic is brittle and will deform and break at the WORST possible moment when you go to rig the girl, wood is MUCH stronger and will hold up to rigging. I hope this helps steve
  13. Peter is correct, the plans are indicating 'gammoning' Also they are not chain, they should be tarred (black or very dark brown) rope. Also another side note, you probably already know this, The Cutty Sark was composite build - some structural elements were wood others iron. I am almost certain that the bowsprit stump was iron, use the strongest stuff you can employ for the bowsprit and jib boom, you don't want a breakage at the last moment when all of the rigging is done and you're just about to put her on the display shelf, ask me how I know. :) Great job - these scientific models are inexpensive, a great display size and fairly accurate, I'm surprised they are not more popular on MSW. steve
  14. Hi Steve, Stephen here great to see you back on the build As it happens I am only about 5 feet away from my model, allow me to grab the calipers and we'll set to- if anyone wants to chime in with better dimensions do not hesitate. From The HULL outwards to the jib boom cap(the tip of the boom)- the over all length is 8 1/4 inches( understanding that the jib boom foot is angled to match the knight head.) At the hull end the boom is o.147 in. SQUARE- the square cross section moves forward 0.313 inches, goes through the aft chock (a figure 8 piece of iron that connects the aft part of the boom to the bowsprit stump. Then the cross section becomes ROUND for the rest of the length of the boom. From there it is 2.290 inches further toward the cap end of the boom to the martingale ring. At the martingale the boom is .020 inches in diameter(just use the inside diameter of the martingale ring as a template). Proceeding further to the boom cap-away from the hull, from the martingale ring 2.059 inches forward is the first sheave(a hole from above to below,through the boom that contains a pulley), this is for the inner topmast jib stay. Next stop outward from the 1st sheave, 0.328 inches is a brace ring. There is an iron ring with eyebolts on either side(port and starboard) and below (NOT ABOVE ) for the guys and stays to attach; at this point the diameter of the jib boom is 0.175 inches. Next farther outboard 0.801 inches is the second sheave for the outer topmast jib stay. (we're nearly there) Next 1.621 inches farther toward the cap is a 3rd sheave for the inner t'gallant jib stay. 0.466 inches farther outboard is one last sheave for the outer t'gallant jib stay. Now dont get lost - split the distance between the last two sheaves and there is an iron ring for the outer martingale stay(an iron ring with eyebolts like the the first one -on either side and below but not above the jib boom). Whew, last measurement. The jib boom cap is outboard of the last sheave 0.195 inches and the boom has steadily tapered to 0.085 inches in diameter at the cap. To construct it out of wood(highly recommended for this structure). Start with a dowel slightly larger in diameter than we need about 0.20 inches to account for the diagonal measurement of the square foot. Lay out all of the critical measurements for sheaves, rings etc. Drill the sheaves . Then slowly reduce the diameter from the foot to the martingale ring(roughly parallel, there is very little taper between the foot and the martingale ring). Taper to the cap. Construct the two eyebolt rings, splice the mainbrace (navy speak for drink your favorite cold beverage) I urge anyone to top that. hope this helps steve

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