Standing rigging

[jhart65]

I'm building the Wasa by Corel 1/75.im planning to use black lines for the standing rigging.Does anyone know what guage lines to use that would be in scale?

[BLACK VIKING]

Hi jhart I used 0.5 brown lines on mine. Looking forward to seeing your build m8 

 

BV

[jhart65]

Thank you for your reply BV. I'm finishing up the hill details now. I will post photos when the hull is done. My work pales when compared to the expert artistry of the contibiters to the forum, but I enjoy the time I spend building model ships.

[BLACK VIKING]

Glad to be of help I haven't posted any pics of mine as I started it ages ago but hope to post pics of my new build some time soon 

 

BV

[allanyed]

J

There would be several different size lines for the standing rigging. The fore, main and mizzen back stays and fore stays are different as are the shrouds to name a few.  For the model, I would not go crazy, but if you use 3 or perhaps 4 sizes, it will probably be enough to give the impression of different sizes throughout and will look far more realistic than using one size for everything.

Allan

 

 

[John Garnish]

1 minute ago, allanyed said:

J

There would be several different size lines for the standing rigging. The fore, main and mizzen back stays and fore stays are different as are the shrouds to name a few.  For the model, I would not go crazy, but if you use 3 or perhaps 4 sizes, it will probably be enough to give the impression of different sizes throughout and will look far more realistic than using one size for everything.

Allan

 

 

Building on the above, the fore and mainstays will be the heaviest ropes, followed by the shrouds and backstays in decreasing order and finally down to ratlines and lanyards.  A golden rule for rigging models is that, if in doubt, make it lighter rather than heavier.

[S.Coleman]

I have used at least 3 different sizes on my Friesland. 0.5, 1.0 and 3mm. Remember to pull your rigging lines through beeswax or the sorts to stop the ugly fuzzies from showing.  Best of luck.

[Ulises Victoria]

My preferred method is to quickly pass a lighter flame under the length of the thread. This way the fuzz is not just hidden or disguised... it's gone!!! 

[Richard Griffith]

John is spot on regarding the sizes.  For more information, see RC  Anderson's "Seventeenth Century Rigging" - preferred - or "The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast". Anderson is considered the best for this period.  He focuses on British practices but does include references to Dutch, French and Spanish variations.  Since King Adolphus hired Dutch shipwrights to build the Wasa (Vasa), Dutch references are relevant.  

 

However, the best reference for rigging sizes is James Lees' "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860.   Even though he focuses on English practice, his tables are relevant to other navies.  (All bets were off when iron and steel cables were introduced.)

 

So, what are the sizes of the stays in Wasa?  Per Lees, the circumferences are 1/2 the diameter of the lower masts.  The shrouds, fore and main, are 0.6 of the appropriate stay and the mizzen is 0.8, and so on.  For modelling purposes, once I have the main stay size, I then eyeball the other lines.  As one goes up the masts, the lines become smaller.      

 

I too have used Ulises' burn method but I destroyed a bunch of line (one must keep the line moving).  Instead, I now wax the line per usual and then move it over a 60 watt bulb to melt the wax and burn off the fuzz.  

 

I visited Wasa 4 years ago and discovered that her shrouds were all brown - not black.   Hope this helps and best regards on your build~!             Duff

[Ulises Victoria]

Hello Duff. It is not the line what is needed to keep moving, but the flame (lighter, candle, your choice.)

What I do is fix a small clamp on my table. I then clamp the right side of the line there and hold the other end with my left hand, keeping it tense. With my right hand I quickly pass the lighter underneath the tense line. The key word here is "quickly". Fuzz is so thin it burns with the slightest amount of heat. With practice you can eliminate the fuzz in the thinnest threads.

I used to wax the line and then do the burning. The wax melted and sip into the thread, making it impervious to humidity, but later, when handling the thread, the wax started to flake and ruined the thread.

Best regards

 

Ulises

[jhart65]

I have an assortment of tan colored rigging rope.I need some black rope. Would Rit fabric Dye be appropriate for this purpose?

[Chuck Seiler]

    I would think you would get an idea of the various rigging sizes from the plans provided in the kit.

 

    I believe from past discussion that newly tarred lines would be a dark brown, but they would get darker with age.  You can use that as a guide...dark brown or brown with a little black added.  I tied that awhile back and just made a muck of it.  Now I just get the dark brown line from Syren Ship Model company (no affiliation...just the same first name).

[jhart65]

After some experimenting with the Rit dye, my advice is to spend the five bucks and you will be assured of simplicity and won't regret it. I get line and rigging supplies from Syren and am happy with the overall quality.

[Geoff Matson]

If you are using cotton rigging line, you might want to give acrylic paints a try. Just do some experimenting and dilute the paint for the desired result. 

[druxey]

There is very little reason to dye your own line these days. A reliable source (Syren) has been suggested and, if you wish to spin up your own line, thread is available in a wide range of colors.