US Brig Niagara by Tom E - Model Shipways - 1:64 Scale

[Tom E]

 

Evening, 

Thought I would share an update. 

Did some little things over the course of the work week. 

I figure since the overall skeleton of the hull is up I would start the fairing. The way I fair is slow and deliberate and will take me a few weeks.

The fairing wont "officially" wrap up until the planking is done and sanded into its final shape. 

So far, I've only found one shim needed for the inside of the bulkheads.

 

 

 

 

 

While fairing the hull, I was sick of looking at this brown shell of a ship and decided it needed a little color.

Don't know why, could be out of order in a ships build, but the goblins in my head told me to go ahead and get a layer or primer on the planksheer/waterway.

 

 

Then proceeded to put the first coat of bulwarks/gun carriage red down. 

Yes, I'm using the Model Expo paint set.

I realize that almost most of this will be sanded down, covered with wood filler and the like. 

Since most painting is done in several coats, might as well start now. Areas may form where access will get tougher and tougher as the ship fills in. 

 

 

Seeing some color down is a milestone in the build in my book.

Feels good, feels like progress!!!!

 

 

Tom E

 

 

[Tom E]

Evening all, 

 

Kind of a slow week, but by design. I wont say I've hit a road block, but a mere speed bump over which way to go.

When I have to decide a certain path over another, I go into a research mode.....eg, internet, other builds, and the like. 

So instead of actually building I get to cleaning and re-organizing the Shipyard.

 

New Christmas lights for this years tree.......and the shipyard

 

 

 

I also tend to shop. 

A trip to Michaels for some spare bass wood, and some blocks for extra bow and stern fillers. 

 

 

The path I have been thinking about is how to handle the Main Rail. 

In some other build's I've seen the main rail omitted until further in the build and use a square strip in its stead. 

This is a large cross road in a ships build.  

Being a newbie to all this and not looking to "bash" anything just yet, I'm going to stick with what comes in the kit. 

Then I can move onto the gunports. 

 

 

 

I took all of the pieces and did a rough draft and I feel more confident in using the supplied rails.

Honestly, they look pretty good. 

There flat, no warps, and they align very well with the top of the bulkhead extensions. 

I've seen builds where there wasn't enough length at the end, as is the case with these. 

But nothing severe enough to change direction. Some wood filler and sanding will do the trick. 

And they give me a good gauge of the overall curve/flow of the ship. 

Tom E 

 

[mikiek]

I would hold off on painting. Glue and paint don't always mix well so painted surfaces may be problematic. You will most likely get all sorts of stains on the waterways (inner bulwarks as well) which means painting them again.

 

I would also keep work on the rail to a minimum. You haven't even started the bulwarks yet and you are going to find that instructions are just plain wrong when it comes to adding frames to the bulwark for gun/oar ports. You will either have to raise or lower the top surface of the the timber heads and rails will just be in the way. The rails are rather thin and can easily break or split if you have to remove them once glued.

 

I really suggest you follow the steps in order as stated in the instructions.

[Tom E]

Hi Mike, 

 

Thanks for the tips! 

 

I hear ya about the painting, wasn't even thinking about the glue under paint.

Over the weekend, with the work I did, most of the paint was sanded off.

Is it best to paint after all is planked and ceiled?

 

As for the main rail, I have held off for now as the timberheads on the bulkheads need more work/fairing before installing. 

Think I'll build what I can of the gunports/sweeps before installing the main rail to allow access for sanding/shaping. 

It looks like the main rail is used to help "frame" the gunports and I'll have to make the leap and install sooner than later. 

 

Tom E

[mikiek]

It's a tough call with painting Tom. The longer you can hold off the better. But I do realize the desire to see some color to liven up the build. Then you have places that are going to be hard to get at later. Actually the inside of your waterway will be one of them. You are going to end up with nicks & scratches & splatters.

 

Priming now can be a good thing. You might even get away with spraying at this point. Have you decided whether you are going to paint or stain the hull? How  about the deck. Will you stain & finish or just finish? Most of that is personal preference, but could be influenced if you decide to substitute some of the wood with something nicer.

 

I'll have to go back towards the start of my log and see what it was about framing the ports. I believe if you follow the plans everything ended up too low. I remember having to add some height with 3/32" square sticks. Almost everyone that has done Niagara has had the same problem. Those that didn't probably just didn't realize it. They say the memory is the first thing to go so I'm sorry I don't remember off the top of my head.

 

The rail just sits on top of the timberheads. It really doesn't have much of anything to do with the port framing. I do remember one thing. I think I must have broken off every timberhead on that hull. Some more than once. Getting the rail on top of them did provide some protection.

 

I will try to go back and get an idea of the problem with the port framing. It will make a big difference on your build.

[mikiek]

Tom - My build log on the first page and xken's Niagara log also on the first page explain the framing problem. Also a good reason not to install the rail yet. If you buy into the problem you will want to run a 3/32" square stick(s) on top of the timberheads for the length on the ship. Your rail will sit on top of that.

[Tom E]

Hmmmmmmm, 

 

Seems I need to do a bit more research.

In my head I think I have the ports figured out, I must be missing something. 

That will be tonight's homework after work. 

Thanks for the heads up.

 

Tom E 

[JohnReid]

I see that your build is really coming along nicely.Cheers! John.

[Tom E]

Evening, 

 

Thanks John!

 

While I wrestle with the main rail question, the build presses on. 

With the infamous gap between the planksheer and the outer edge of bulkheads appearing, time to fill it.

Just using scrap strips, used various sizes according to the gap that needed to be filled. 

These will be sanded down flush with the bulkheads. 

 

 

They all needed it. From bow to stern. 

 

 

 

They look unsightly, but will sand up just fine. 

Harder to do in my head than in reality. 

 

The stern needed the most work. 

These below are essentially sanded flush, but still in progress. 

I think they look good. 

If you look at the port planksheer where it meets the timberheads, I started to put wooden plugs to fill the gaps.

These will be sanded and covered with wood filler as well later on.

After painting, hopefully they will look some what close to seamless.....hopefully!

 

 

Still fiddling with the main rail. 

I test fit, test fit again, then re test fit. 

Sooner or later I'm just gonna have to dive in and lay down what I have planned. 

 

 

Tom E 

 

 

 

[mikiek]

Kinda odd that every space needed one.    Did you just buy your kit or was it a closet queen?

[Tom E]

Mike, 

I had the kit for just shy of a year.

It was stored under the bed. I didn't do anything special to her for storage.

So in the end she did sit thru a cold, dry winter and a hot, moist summer before building.

 

Do you think it was the wait that did this?

I figured it was the cut from the factory.

 

Tom E

 

 

[mikiek]

I would agree with you Tom. I was just thinking maybe it was really old or something. I thought the spacers were odd because I don't remember having to do that at all. What you've done looks real nice though.

 

From a realistic point of view - carronades (which is Niagara's type of gun) had a problem with setting nearby rigging on fire.This was due to a larger aperture and the type of load. The quickest solution for this was moving the gun as far out from the side of the ship as possible. The small holes in the waterway in the middle of each port are for pins that keep the gun carriages in place. It also is kind of a mark showing where your carriages will sit. The barrels slid forward and back on the carriage. If you're looking for a side task you might build a few of the guns and then see where the barrels end up. Particularly forward. I'm a little concerned that those holes are not far enough forward and the barrels won't protrude outside of the bulwark.

 

Of course everything I just brought  up would be something you or me might know, but the casual observer - ehh. So maybe who cares? Just something to think about.

[Tom E]

Mike, 

 

That's a fine idea. I think I will build a few carronades to see how they align/look.

It would be easier to adjust those pin holes now than later.

Sounds like a perfect weekend project.

 

Tom E 

[Tom E]

Evening, 

Been a while for an update, and admittedly I screwed up. 

 

There comes a point in almost every build where you realize you did something that cant be undone.....well, not easily.

I couldn't fix it as admittedly my build log is about 6 weeks behind the actual build......it my way of motivation.....it just me....my goblins.

 

In my last post it was brought to my attention that the correct way for the main rail was to use a square strip on top of the bulkheads, then the main rail on top. 

I missed this. I found it on Xkens Niagara build, but, I was unaware of this build prior. Some reason, I never came across it. Thought I did good searches. 

To all Niagara builders in the future, use the square strip on top, then the main rail on top of that.

 

Oh well, learning moment.   

 

With all of this in mind, I need to press on.

Its crossroads like these that cause folks to "mothball" a build and move on to something else.

I will not do this!

I have some fixes in my mind.  

 

 

 

The main rail fits on the timberheads quite well. 

Some humps, but I should be able to sand these down. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the rail in place, it was time to sand and fill some gaps. 

 

 

 

 

Its about 20 degrees tonight in New Hampshire, without the wind chill.

Hot cup of tea will be on order all night!!!

 

Tom E 

 

[Derek C]

Thats it Tom , sometimes these builds can be like rough  seas and you jst have to roll with it .I like the no give up attitude, I know you will push thru these minor issues

Derek

[mikiek]

Tom - what kind of glue did you use on the rail? If white, that'll loosen up easy enough with some alcohol. I've loosened CA with acetone just be careful how you apply it.

 

I would definitely give removing the rails a try.

Edited November 13, 2017 by mikiek

[Tom E]

Mike, 

I used CA. I tried the acetone trick and everything else I could come up with to loosen the glue, but no luck. 

It did loosen some, but removing was causing more damage. Timberheads where starting to crack and loosen. 

I thought about just ripping off and replacing with a new rail thru Model Expo, but I just cant bring myself to that.

 

I've dug my own grave, Just have to adjust going forward.

I know there's a stringer just under the rail, where the square strip would be, I'll adjust its size down a bit. 

I did build a carronade, and with the smaller stringer I'm thinking about, the gunport openings looks ok. 

My scale may be off, but the average person may not realize it. 

 

Tom E

[mikiek]

Heck Tom - for that matter you could cut the rail off the top of the timberheads. A jewelers or fret saw would work. Even if you break a few timberheads trying. I know I broke every one on my build. Some more than once. Some I glued back, some I made new ones and glued back.

 

It's totally your call, but if it was me I'd take the rail off, one way or the other.

[Tom E]

Evening, 

Hope all is well in everyone's shipyard tonight.

 

Quiet, and cold, night here in central New Hampshire on a Saturday.

Good movie on, hot cup of tea, and heading to the Shipyard!

Moving on from the main rail as it vexes me right now! 

 

Installed extra fillers at the bow and stern. 

 

 

The fillers looked "pieced" in. 

Went to Michaels to buy some balsa wood blocks I had seen previous.

Lo and behold, they were gone!

There must be another modeler in town, those were pretty sweet blocks/slabs of balsa wood!

I knew I should have nabbed em when I had the chance!

 

In my frustration, at myself, walked thru the "wood/carving" area and found little blocks, I think there used to make building blocks for kids.

I little shaping and they fit. In the end, they are covered over anyways. 

 

 

As you can see below, there's still some fairing to do to the fillers. 

A bit uneven!

With these now installed, and checking fairing with the batten strip, you get a real feel at how well these things are going to give an extra grip while planking. 

Already convinced on extra fillers and will use on any future builds where they can be used.

 

 

 

I'm still in awe at my keel. 

She is staying straight during this entire process. 

And that's with me pulling and screwing with the main rail, and several strong solvents to loosen glue, she stays straight. 

 

 

Tom E 

 

[Derek C]

Looking good Tom , it does look nice and straight 

[Tom E]

Evening, 

Thought I would share an update prior to the holiday travels. 

Heading to Massachusetts for dinner with the parents and one of my 2 sisters. The good thing, my brother in law is a modeler.

So we'll basically talk "shop" all thru dinner. 

 

 

In dealing with the main rail and all that jazz.......I'm moving on. 

It is what it is and I'm throwing my hands up on it, but NOT on this build.

I'll adjust to my best ability.

 

With that said.

I started putting the gun ports framing in. 

Pretty simple. They should sand up nice. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I let these sit for a few days before sanding. 

They sanded up nice and flush in between the timberheads. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've seen this jig in other builds.

Its simplicity is staggering. 

Measured out the area of the gunport from the plans and made some blocks the same size. 

 

Easy peasy!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy Thanksgiving everybody!   

Be safe!

 

Tom E

 

 

 

 

[mikiek]

Tom - did you ever verify that an assembled gun had enough clearance under the rail?

[Tom E]

Mike, 

I did build 2 carronades and they seem to fit well. 

Once the decking is installed it should help with the pitch, but they do fit.

 

Maybe not historically correct, and would probably blow the rail off when fired!

 

 

The carronade are not fully assembled, just primed and pieces on top of each other.

I wont glue the slide board to the carronade base until ready for final placement. 

In the end, I want the barrels hanging outboard a bit...I think. I'll know when I see it. 

Deck planking should raise the backend of the carriage up. 

 

I'll still have the stringer, per the plans, under the rail.

It just wont cross the gunport opening.

I'll piece that in, with the rest of the planking section by section.

 

 

Tom E 

 

 

[mikiek]

Tom there is also a part called the quion - a wedge that fits under the rear of the guns. Helped to give them elevation if needed. Depending on exact placement, that will tip your barrel down a little bit. It could help.

[Tom E]

 

Well, its official......the holidays are here!!!! 

Dear Santa, All I want for Christmas this year is Bluejackets kit Bowdoin. I've been real good this year.......mostly!

 

Something about a huge Thanksgiving dinner.

Sure, you take a nap......I wake up, have another piece of pie and head to the Shipyard with a large glass of a good beer...icy cold!

Actually, there were several cold ones!

At one point, the Admiral checked in on me as she hadn't heard from me in a while. She hadn't heard from anyone!

 

Anywho......

 

Since my rail is in and staying, I installed the chock rail.

It was easy enough. With some shaping will look better. 

I hesitated drilling any holes in the front for rigging as there seems to be no set amount, none that I can find.

In the plans, in build logs, in the finished albums, I've seen anywhere between 4 to 6 holes. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I next installed the first of two 3/64 x 3/32 planks running the entire length of the ship.

This was flush with the gunport openings the entire length.

 

 

This went in fairly easy.

With some coaxing and really strong glue.....it sits well. 

 

Then it dawned on me, I officially have the very first plank attached to my frame!!!!!

Huzzah! 

 

 

I left enough of a tail at the end so when its time to do the stern, I've got extra to play with.

These originally were longer.

But the old sweatshirt around the boat and the sleeve grabbing the strip had me shorten them before any major mishaps!

 

 

Tom E

 

[Derek C]

Looking good Tom 

[mikiek]

re: holes in chock rail - depending on how/what you are going to rig you may not need any. I didn't.

 

You are about to hit the most difficult area for planking the stern for the next 5-6 strakes. You will need some twist and after that a bend upwards. I actually put a twist in the sticks - similar to how we bend them. Soak them, clamp at the half way point with one anvil, put half a twist in the stick and hold the end with a second anvil. Heat to dry or let it dry naturally. The stick will look a bit like a corkscrew. Be aware that sticks on the port side need a twist in the opposite direction as those on the starboard. Don't remember which but one side takes a clockwise twist. The other side a counter clockwise twist. The twisted sticks will lay almost naturally around the curves at the stern.

 

I documented that pretty well in my log.

[mikiek]

Reminder - don't forget to mark your bands before you go any further. Also you'll want to add your garboard and a strake or two above it before too long.

[Tom E]

Evening, 

Time for an update. Admittedly, not much done this past week.     Work.........hmmmph!!!!!!!! 

I have 2 dollars on Powerball tonight. That's $177,000,000.00!

Even after taxes, that's still plenty to retire on and build to my hearts content.

Of course I'd be building from a beautiful house on the Maine coast line in the summer and the mountains of Vermont in the winter!!!!!!

 

 

Continued to add the second 3/64 batten, both sides.

Wont head any more south than this. I plan on concentrating on the gunport and sweeps opening and plank them first.

I don't feel like I'm totally done fairing the bottom half. 

I will use the tick strips to lay out the bands for planking. 

 

Mike, thanks for the heads up on those plank twists!

Dang! That's gonna take some soaking!

Especially where it meets the transom area.

Don't think, in my limited experience, I have ever bent something like that.

I should but some extra planks now!!!!! 

 

 

 

I do love these mini-clamps. Very handy.

If I remember correctly, Home Depot for about $0.30.

Good grip too! Sometimes too strong and will jump off!

 

 

 

 

 

Finished battens from the stern.

 

 

 

 

Finished battens from the bow. 

They align well at the very front of the bow, under the bowsprit.

Surprisingly I don't have a pic from that angle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As stated in a previous post, I started building some carronade.

One to check for clearance at the deck/main rail area, also.......because its fun!

There carronades, this ship will have some teeth!

 

 

 

With some sanding and shaping the carronades perk up well.

The base and sled are laser cut, easy enough.

A few, of I'm sure to be hundreds!, metal eyebolts made from 28 gauge wire.

Easy enough to make with a few twists.

 

I'll put a layer of primer over all before adding there final colors.

 

 

Tom E

 

[mikiek]

re: fairing - you can fair all you want right now. You will still have to do more as you lay planks. Strake by strake. Don't knock yourself out yet. Have you decided if you are going to plank with a whole stick or cut sticks for each strake?