Oostends schipje by G.L. - scale 1:20 - Ostend shrimper - first POF - Edition 2

[G.L.]

10.2

The block is glued between the stringers in the slots and on the inside of the starboard stringer a sheave shell is glued into position.

[G.L.]

10.3

Sawing the clamp for the outside of the port stringer.

[G.L.]

10.4

The stringers are shortened to the correct height and the clamp is glued into position. A sheave is added on top of the starboard stringer.

[G.L.]

10.5

A wooden roll which will guide the jib boom when it is rolled in or out is added.

[G.L.]

The jib boom support finally into position. Remark the round groove in the port knight head for the bow sprit, it was filed out with a round file.

[G.L.]

Part 11: Laying the deck:

11.1

Only the port side of the deck will be closed. I will leave the biggest part of the starboard side uncovered to preserve a view on the deck beam structure and the interior.        
I start with making and placing small filling pieces between the bulwark stanchions. On the sides of them I glue a strip of black cardboard to imitate the caulking.

[G.L.]

11.2

At the stern, an oak plank is covering the space between the stern and the last but one deck beam.

[G.L.]

11.3

I copy the shape of the outer edge of the waterway on a piece of tracing paper. After the template is glued on a of pine plank of 3 mm thick, it can been sawn.

[G.L.]

11.4

The waterways in place, but not glued. The inner edge is not yet shaped. I will do that while laying the deck planks.

[G.L.]

11.5

I start the planking from amidships and use a lath to glue the first planks in a straight line. At the sides and the heads of each plank I glue black cardboard strips to imitate the caulking. As the planking reaches the sides of the boat they can been cut into the waterways.

Edited December 29, 2017 by G.L.
added pictures

[G.L.]

11.6

When the model is fully planked. I lay some weights on the deck and let everything dry. When the glue is dry, I scrape the planks smooth with a knife blade.

[G.L.]

11.7

The deck is finished with tree nails and then sanding, sanding and sanding...

[michael mott]

Beautiful workmanship on the Decking GL

Michael

[G.L.]

On ‎29‎-‎12‎-‎2017 at 12:35 PM, John Allen said:

G.L.

 

Your build is taking shape and looking very good. Really enjoyed the way you approached constructing the stove very nice.

John,

 

Thank you very much for your comment.

 

G.L.

[G.L.]

On ‎30‎-‎12‎-‎2017 at 7:53 AM, michael mott said:

Beautiful workmanship on the Decking GL

Michael

Thank You Michael.

I discovered recently your Bristol pilot boat log. That is ship modelling at a whole different level. It is clear that I have still a lot to learn. It is thanks to logs like yours that we can continue improving our skills.

 

G.L.

[G.L.]

Part 12: Making deck gear

12.1

Now the deck is laid, I can finish the jib boom support with props on the deck.

Edited January 7, 2018 by G.L.

[G.L.]

12.2

I add also the a small rail with 3 holes for belaying pins, connecting the jib boom support with the knight head.             
The belaying pins are made on the lathe of a spar of beech.

1.       I first cut the thin part of the pin.

2.       With a round file I shape the body of the handle.

3.       I then cut off the pin from the spar and turn it around with the thin part in the chuck and I round the upper side of the handle with a flat (triangle) file.

4.       The result.

5.       The pins in the rail.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 7, 2018 by G.L.
Changed the order of the pictures, but they keep coming in the wrong order.

[G.L.]

12.3

As there is a stove in the crew shelter, there has to be a chimney. I make it of a 5mm brass tube sawn under 45° and soldered together. It stands on a small brass ring, sawn and filed out of a brass plate.

Edited January 7, 2018 by G.L.

[G.L.]

12.4

Here it is assembled and standing into position. Before it will be placed permanently it has to be blackened.

Edited January 7, 2018 by G.L.

[G.L.]

12.5

Just behind the chimney is the cabin entrance. It has a gliding hatch and double door. I would like to make a functioning hatch and doors.            

 

 

 

 

Edited January 7, 2018 by G.L.

[G.L.]

12.6

I start to make the frames of both sides of the deckhouse. Afterwards I fill the inside of the frames with planks.

[G.L.]

12.7

I glue the bottom-, top front- and top middle beam between the 2 sides and fill the so formed front frame with planks. The width of both top beams was almost double as it should be. When the glue was dry, I sanded the topside of the deckhouse arched with the band sander as can be seen on the picture.

[G.L.]

12.8

The top side of the cabin entrance can now be covered with planks. I glue a strip of black card board between the planks because I presume the roof was caulked. In the roof the opening for entering is left uncovered.

[G.L.]

12.9

After the roof is sanded.

[G.L.]

12.10

To give the hatch the same curve as the roof I glue it together on top of the roof. A piece of paper between both prevents that the hatch is glued on the roof. When the glue of the hatch is dry, I sand it and make the hatch rails. On the front side the pincher is holding the front plank in place while the glue is drying

[G.L.]

12.11

The cabin entrance with hatch and doors. The doors are not yet attached with hinges.

[G.L.]

12.12

To make the door hinges, I make four brass strips and saw four pieces of brass tube with a length equal to the width of the strips. I solder the tubes on the edge of each strip.

[G.L.]

12.13

I finish the hinges by filing them.

[G.L.]

12.14

Doors and hatch closed.

[G.L.]

12.15

Doors and hatch open.