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Posted

Not much progress tonight. Since it warmed up, I spent more time preparing other plastic kits for painting. But I sanded the deck with 150 and 220. Then I cut a knotch out for the laser cut pieces which support the bowsprit.

Trying to decide what’s next. Think this weekend, I’ll varnish the deck. Insert all the hooks on the deck. Paint the plastic wood grates. Don’t want to put too much deck furniture on before sheathing. And I need to prime and paint the hull before doing that.

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Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

Posted

Well, I changed my mind a little. Didn’t varnish the deck. I couldn’t find minwax at Home Depot. I think Walmart carries it. I’ll try there tomorrow. So began installing the sides. The bow sections were a real pain. These plywood laser cut pieces are very delicate. Are larger scale ships laser cut pieces more sturdy? Anyway, I was afraid to try the plank bender. So the instructions said a third option is to soak in hot water and alcohol solution. Didn’t make them loose enough. But, persistence and superglue seem to have paid off. But it still broke at the notches. 

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Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

Posted

I actually had this same issue with my first build...the laser cut plywood did not want to bend whatsoever. I ended up breaking one on my first attempt but the second one I actually soaked in hot water for a much longer duration and then I covered the container with saran wrap, leaving only a small vent for the steam and microwaved it. This seemed to really make the wood more pliable...I am sure others on this site have other/probably better ideas.

Posted

Too bad about the breaks in the bow. After sanding and installing the cap rail and planking there is a fairly good chance you will no longer be able to see it.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

A little progress today. I filled gaps with wood filler and sanded. Reenforced all my keel joints with white glue. Primed(I hope), the metal furniture and plastic wood windows. Used white. NowI just need to paint the frames yellow. And the windows will remain primer white.

 

 Then I added the gunwale bottom edge. It is a 2x1 mm and fairly thin Walnut strip. But it did not want to bend easily enough. So I tried the plank benders. Used very light pressure. Just enough to leave a mark. When I began wrapping it around the bow, it came apart at the crimp marks. Grabbed another strip. Made light perpendicular scores with the Exacto-knife. That bent easier. But not enough. But it did not break. So tried super glue. Didn’t hold. So used wood glue. And taped it on to hold until that dried. The tape wouldn’t hold the bent strip at the point where meets the keel. Used a binder clip. That appeared to be holding. Used my other clamps for the rest. Get to repeat the process tomorrow.

 

I would not recommend this kit for a beginner because it’s small size makes many parts very fragile. But I frequently don’t know my own strength. So maybe it’s just me.

Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

Posted

Do you have an old low power soldering iron, or possibly an iron with a low setting? Another option would be a hair curlier or dryer, (My least favorite) If you can apply heat to at least one side while bending the plank you may find out that things work a little better for you. If you use the iron or soldering iron method keep them moving or you could easily scorch the wood. 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

Thanks Lou. I don’t have the that kind of iron. But I tried steam for the other side. Helped a little. Fortunately it look like these are the only bends for these 2x1 pieces. If not, I’ll buy some more. Hope the 3x1 Wales handle the plank bender.

Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

Posted

Well, they're not perfect. But workable. Applied a little white glue and taped the cracks when I went home for lunch.Tonight I'll mark the water line and add the wales just above it per the directions.

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Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

Posted

Didn’t like how I mangled lower port rail laser cut piece. So took some of the scrap from its plywood sheet and cut a piece to length and glued it. Will cut to width once that is dry.

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Then proceeded to draw the waterline. My second mate wanted to help. Fortunately she bores easily. I know it’s a crude method.  But it looks right on plan to me.

 

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Now just need to find a safe way to bend this 3x1mm wale. Thinking of letting them soak overnight in a water alcohol solution. What do y’all think?

 

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Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

Posted

Your second mate needs better accommodations! He looks pretty alone over there in the corner.

 

Good luck on the plank bending.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted
7 hours ago, lmagna said:

Your second mate needs better accommodations! He looks pretty alone over there in the corner.

 

Good luck on the plank bending.

LOL. Her bed was right next to me. Don’t know how it wound up over there.

Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

Posted

My new pup has to have TWO beds!

One is BEHIND my chair in the living room. The other is across the room bu the fireplace and is full of his toys. He has not done it for a couple of months but he used to go to sleep in that bed and just looked like another toy. He is also the only dog I have ever seen that will put toys back into the toy spot, (The bed)! He doesn't do it all that often but he has done it. He also likes to sleep on peoples shoes, especially in my wife's pile of shoes upstairs!

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted (edited)

Masked the deck tonight. Sprayed the hull, keel and outside gunwale primer white. Will need another coat in the morning. If it’s not to cold and damp. Then inside gunwales need a few coats. After that I can paint them. And then copper the bottom.

 

The thread on The Bounty’s color I linked to on page 1 said the standard at that time was blue planks and black Wales. Is that true or is it the reverse? I would have thought blue would be more expensive. And the black be caused be tar. Need to learn so much.

Edited by Glenns_TX

Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

Posted

I don't know about the blue as I have never done any research on the Bounty but black wales are pretty common if not even standard

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

Well fellow modelers, I have a choice to make. It seems priming has revealed those marks and dents in the hull I filled and sanded. Guess I didn’t use enough filler and do enough sanding. These are below the waterline which will be copper sheathed. So do I just spray a clear coat and copper over them? Will they show in the copper? Or do I need to fill, sand and prime again?

43839698970_4a632007a8_b.jpg 45657899661_2a9e0ff0ea_b.jpg

 

Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

Posted

It looks like to me that the copper will cover them with ease.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted (edited)

Thanks Lou. I’m waiting on a pounce wheel anyway. And I noticed her stern was sanded or carved too much on one side. So I decided to fill them at the same time I’m trying to thicken her stern.

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Edited by Glenns_TX

Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

Posted
20 minutes ago, Glenns_TX said:

And I noticed her stern was sanded or carved too much on one side

That is the problem with many of the less expensive solid hull kits that do not provide hull templates for you to work with. Their shaping is only close most of the time and you have to judge with only the use of the MK 1 eyeball to decide when you have sanded them even.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

Well I cannot say with certainty the kit is at fault for this one. Having only worked with plastic kits, I’m not used to having to focus on this level of detail and correction. And my desire to rush in and make progress probably played the bigger roll. But no worries. If filler doesn’t work, I’ll sand it off and glue on a layer of basswood. Then carve and sand that to fit.

Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

Posted

Catching up on this log, you've certainly discovered some of the ways that Corel finds to drive modelers mad (like poor quality materials and instructions). As for your rigging line, the standing rigging certainly would have been tarred. I'd recommend replacing it with something higher quality than what Corel provides (such as line from Syren).

 

As for bending tough planks, I've found that doing it in several stages can help. Soak the wood first, then bend it through part of the curve off the model by setting up a template or other bending station. Let it dry and take that gentler curve, then resoak and work it toward the tighter curve. I use a hair dryer once the wet wood is clamped in place, the extra heat dries it fast and seems to help set the fibres in their new position.

 

This kit certainly looks like a challenge, between the small scale and the manufacturer. You're soldiering on admirably!

Posted

Thanks for the tips Cathead. I'll give them a try. Fortunately, there aren't many more bend required that I can see. The two wales and the rails. Can I bend them. Then paint before gluing them to the ship.

 

Right now I need to get the stern fixed. Followed by painting the plank area.  My pounce wheels arriving today. I should be able to begin adding her copper sheathing this weekend.

Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

Posted

Yes, you should be able to bend them first. In fact, many folks recommend fully bending planks before doing any gluing; the idea is that the bent plank should hold its shape and need almost no clamping once you're ready to glue it on. That's how I do it. Be careful pre-painting, as the paint's moisture can change the curve if you use too much.

Posted

Not much progress today. Soaked the wales and rails overnight. Taped and clamped them on until dry. Then glued them on. Did  little painting on the deck and window pieces. Need more tan. One thing I learned, glue the Wales before painting. The Glue isn’t adhering to the paint very well.

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Builds In-progress :

HMS Bounty, Corel 1/130

USS Enterpise CV-6, Revell 1/1200

 

Completed Builds :

USS Constitution Plastic Refit. See Avatar and Cover Photo

USS Arizona BB-39, Revell, 1:426

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