HMS VICTORY by Jerry - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72 - 1805 version

[Jerry]

Hey Kevin...Thanks for your post.... lol, When you get to be my age you'll have plenty of time also.   I plan to use the kit copper plates as I have had experience installing them before when building Cutty Sark. (as a matter of fact, I found a bag with leftover plates but they're different in size.)   I also realize that there's a lot more plates on Victory but I'm pretty sure I can handle it.  Although I see that you and other builders have used "evo stick"  cement, I plan to use 15 second CA glue as I also did before. In the past.  One drop in the middle of the plate did the trick as it spread when applied to the hull.  If I had to remove a plate for any reason, i didn't have a problem.  Cutty Sark was completed at least 12 or 13 years ago and all the copper plates, although tarnished,  are still in place.

 

Have a great day............Jerry

Edited May 8, 2013 by Jerry

[Kevin]

Jerry

i used medium c/a http://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-Industrial-Superglue-General-Purpose/dp/B006PFN3BW/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1368014776&sr=8-14&keywords=super+glue

and i purchased another 200 tiles from Caldercraft

[hopeful]

Hi Jerry,

 

Just caught your build log and read it through this morning. Wow, lots of lumber needed to build the Victory. It is amazing how quickly you are moving along. Look forward to your next post. BTW, beautiful job on your Cutty!!

 

Keep on......

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

[Jerry]

Kevin, the CA (super glue) that I use, according to the label, is "gap fillng, 5 - 15 second."  Did you run out of copper plates due to the kit being under supplied or did you purchase the 200 additional plates because of building errors?  My kit came with 2 bags of the buggers; I hope that's enough.   Jerry

[Jerry]

Hi David (Hopeful) ...  Thanks for your nice comments.  Cutty Sark took about a year to finish and it was my first experience in model ship building.  As I mentioned, after completing this kit, I figured one ship build in a lifetime is enough but like everything else in life...things change.  LOL  Have a great day.   Jerry

Edited May 8, 2013 by Jerry

[Kevin]

i purchased more as a just in case, but then replaced 100, so i have spares and they are not as expensive as i thought.

 

all the best

[Jerry]

Thanks, Kevin..........

[Shipyard sid]

Greetings Jerry

Which adhesive ??? It's everyone to their own. I used impact adhesive and laid the tiles about six to eight at a time. You have plenty of time to adjust them, and any excess that you get on the face of the tile can be simply rolled off, were as CA on the face of them can sometimes be a bit of a problem. Derek used a cleaning solution and cleaned the tiles when ever he needed to. What is a must!!! is an open window and a fan running constantly. So that's me. Impact adhesive , clean them as you go, don't get complacent, and fit all the small gaps when you come to them. Don't leave them until last, or you will have lots of small awkward bits and triangles to fit, and I think it makes sense to fit them as you come to them. Keep enjoying it DAVID

[Jerry]

Good day, David...I just want you to know that I sincerely appreciate all the time you take to advise me.  It's so nice to know how decent some people are and you are one of them.  As I mentioned before, I did use CA when tiling Cutty Sark.  I really had no problems, even if I decided to remove a tile later on.  I used "Un-cure" to clean any CA that may have showed as residue and it worked well as long as it is used sparingly and kept it from getting under the tile.  It was along time ago so I'm relying on a foggy memory.  It'll be "Evo-Stik" or CA as my adhesive of choice although I seem to be favoring CA.  I'll cerainly take your advice with respect to gaps.  I still have plenty of other work to do -  finish lining gunports, painting, etc., -  before starting the plating.  Again, thanks much...

 

Jerry

[Patrick Haw]

Hi Jerry,

 

Just catching up on your build and you're going great guns and she really looks good.  Having 5 hours a day to work on her is a luxury...although I did get about 4 hours in on mine today.  You started a month after me and you're pulling ahead, but inspiring me to get out to the shipyard more often!  I'm planking inner bulwarks now, the it'll be the wales, lining gunports and painting, then on to the coppering!  I've decided to go the Evo-stick route for mine and agree with David that good ventilation is a must when using it.  I also went to Home Depot and invested in a good quality mask with filters.  Never was a glue-sniffer and don't intend to start now!

 

Cheers,

 

Patrick

[Jerry]

Nice to hear from you Patrick.  How are you?  I didn't realize that one could purchase evo stik at Home Depot.  That's a good reason for me to try it.  I thought i'd have to have it sent form th UK.  I 'm going to buy some and experiment with it before I make the final decision. Glad you're making progress also.  I just finished the gunport linings and painted red the ones previously installed.  Look like I still have to paint the black bands onto the hull and mark the waterline; hope I don't have any trouble with that.  Then I'm ready for coppering.  No sense posting a picture since the one I posted yesterday (starboard side) looks like the rest of the ship.   Take care... Jerry

Edited May 8, 2013 by Jerry

[Patrick Haw]

Hi Jerry.

 

Sorry, I meant I invested in a good quality breathing mask with filters at Home Depot.  I had to get the Evo-stick from Cornwall Model Boats in the UK

 

Patrick

[Jerry]

Ok, thanks, Patrick.  Actually one can buy Evo-Stik on Ebay.  Check it out.  Trouble is the S&H will cost more than the product unless you buy a bunch of other stuff.

Jerry

[Jerry]

It looks like it's been a week since I entered a post with respect to progress on Victory.  Actually I have been at a standstill debating how to mark the waterline so I can begin the wonderful chore of coppering.  I constructed a homemade version of a waterline marker and it looked like it would work pretty well.  At first I used a fine soft tip pen but the darn contraption wandered too much so I tried a pencil in its place which did no better, so I finally gave up on it.  I borrowed a commercial waterline marker and tried that and ran into the same problem as before with wandering. Seems as if the pencil point gets caught between two planks and then jump out creating a wandering line.  One of my fellow club members here in Naples suggested that I use the plans to  locate the waterline in several places along the hull and then use the bottom edge of masking tape to indicate the waterline by painting black paint over it.; that's what I did and fortunately, it turned out well.                              I'm waiting for delivery of some styrene strips which I will use to give me a three dimesnsional line.  This is from the advice that David (Sipyard Sid) graciously shared with me.  Also, at David's suggestion, I plan to paint the strips black also and then begin the coppering.  With all the time I usually have available it sure hurt to sit around and play on line poker.  Can't wait to get going again.  I'll edit in a couple of images as soon as it's feasible.   Jerry

Edited May 16, 2013 by Jerry

[Shipyard sid]

Greetings Jerry

Well there's a surprise , the water line marker was a darn failure. You said the point of the marker got caught in the planks.

It's a bit late now that you have got it sorted, but I used white primer on all the hull area to be planked, and sanded out all the small defects in the planking which the primer highlights, and it closes the gaps between the planks if you understand, and creates a smooth surface for the maker to draw the line around. Go on then, tell me you used primer and it didn't work!! Ok if you haven't its an idea to prime the whole area and sand out the defects that as i said will be highlighted. Jerry it no good finding little problems all the time, you will be telling us the styrene is out of stock next or you've ran out of glue. ..The dreaded tiles are still waiting and have got to be done !!!!!!!!! DAVID

[Jerry]

Hello David... i was hoping to hear from you; in fact, I was about to send you a message when I received notice of your post.  I will not run out of glue...The styrene strips have been shipped as I received notice of that yesterday.  The waterline worked out well and I'm  raring to go.  My question is, did you begin coppering at the waterline or at the keel.  I believe you once mentioned that you began at the water line.  I hope you were joking about my hesitancy as I wasn't happy taking so long to get the waterline finished.

Edited May 15, 2013 by Jerry

[Kevin]

Jerry 

glad you sorted waterline problem out, 

 

all the issues you are finding have been discussed within these forums recently so we are happy to help where we can including the copper tiling

[Shipyard sid]

Greetings Jerry

Yes, only joking about things..... No glue, styrene out of stock. I started the tiling from the water line. I think most builders are doing that way. I bought .. The period ship hand book .. By Keith julier. And followed he's method. I do believe Kevin did the same. Good luck with your coppering. DAVID

[Jerry]

Good morning, Kevin.. (morning here)  I hope youare doing well.  Yes, I have found these forums invaluable.  Thanks for your comment. I'm really looking forward to begin the copper tiling and to get on with the build.  Jerry

[Jerry]

Good morning to you David...At first I thought you were upset with me but then realized you were just kidding me.  So, as soon as I get the styrene I'll paint it black and begin the coppering.  I'm having a camera (cell phone) problem at the moment not being able to email any photos to myself for posting on the forum.  I hope to sort this problem out quickly.  Have a great day..  Jerry

Edited May 16, 2013 by Jerry

[Jerry]

Well, I managed to apply the styrene waterline marker to the hull as tiny as it is.  (about 1mm x 0.5mm)  So now I decided to do some wood filling and sanding of the hull before I paint the styrene black and begin the coppering.  I know that Shipyard Sid and Kevin started from the waterline and worked down although the manual suggests the opposite, from the keel up.  Here are some pics of the styrene waterline marker before I paint it black.    

Edited May 17, 2013 by Jerry

[Shipyard sid]

Greetings Jerry

Well done on sorting your waterline out. You said you were now going to do some wood filling and sanding of the hull before you added the plates. It is a good idea as I said earlier to use a primer on the hull first and it will highlight any defects in the hull, which you are looking for, and to have a smooth surface for laying your tiles. It's up to you, but it is only a five minute job to prime it. I just used a cheap water based white primer. Any way on with mask and away you go!!!! Keep showing us all your progress as you proceed . DAVID

[Jerry]

Thanks, David....I will prime the hull as you suggest and smooth it out for plating.  I also plan to fill and sand the rest of the hull from the waterline up to to the topside.  I was hoping to let you know when we'll be in the UK this summer as I thought we'd get a chance to meet.  But, my wife opted for an Alaskan cruise instead.  We often stay in Hertford for a month or so in June...but not this year.  I plan to begin the plating tomorrow.  Take care my friend.  Jerry

[Jerry]

OK folks...After I complete this post I know I'm going to hear from Shipyard Sid who will probably rip me up a bit because I didn't take his aadvice and prime the hull of Victory before beginning the copper plating.  Actually, the hull is in excellent shape, i.e., it's really smooth enough for the plates.  It's the upper sides around some of the gunports that I was referring to that need filling as there are some nasty spaces between some of the planking up there.  That will definitely be filled and sanded before painting.  So I began the plating and here is the result of a couiple of hours this afternoon.  I do wonder what the best method is of cutting a plate when it needs to be trimmed.  I don't think a sharp knife works well  but I tried a scissors and it worked great.  What do you think?

Edited May 20, 2013 by Jerry

[chris watton]

OK folks...After I complete this post I know I'm going to hear from Shipyard Sid who will probably rip me up a bit because I didn't take his aadvice and prime the hull of Victory before beginning the copper plating...  

 

What do you think?

 

Looks good. I'll let you into a secret, I never have even thought about priming the hull before coppering - superglue absolutely loves sticking to wood, I see no reason to put a barrier in-between.

[Jerry]

Chris...I appreciate your comments.  I never would have thought about the glue not holding.  But I do know that a few HMS Victory builders, who appear on this web site often,  have primed their hulls before tiling and they had no problems.  Not all of them used super glue; some used a contact cement called Evo-stik.  Again, nice to hear from you... Take care,

Jerry

[Shipyard sid]

Hello Jerry

Hope all is ok, as I said I primed mine as did others to highlight any defects. I used as you say EVOSTIK and had no problem with it. You can see were Chris is coming from with a barrier between the ca and the wood. It all looking good. When you posted I was looking for some photos showing how the tiles start to narrow off under the water line as they start to reach the curve of the bows and stern you should be able to see this start to happen as you work your way along the waterline. . I also found it best to keep my runs of tiles wider above the ones below them if you follow. Keep enjoying it . Bed time here DAVID

[Yon]

Hi Jerry

 

Looks like you're off to a great start.

 

Like you I did not use a primer and I used good quality scissors to cut the tiles and did not have any major problems.  The only difficulty I had was due to prolonged exposure to superglue.  It seems, however, that most people don't have a problem with it provided the ventelation is good and they take a lot of breaks etc. etc.

 

I didn't find coppering to be the most exciting part of the build but it was perhaps the most rewarding when it was finished.

 

Keep up the good work !

 

Yon

[ocean clipper]

Hi Jerry i see the tiling is of to flying start,for what its worth i never primed before tiling either no reason just never did.As for the tiling well its a either love it or hate it thing,personally  i dont want to tile another hull lol.Yeh ok famous last words   DEREK

[Jerry]

Hey Yon... Thanks for the warning about the super glue.  I believe it's even more problamatic at my age.  I do what you suggested and take breaks from time to time by playing a little on-line poker.  I just can't get away from texas Hold 'em.  Nice to hear from you and have a great day.  Jerry