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Posted
3 hours ago, Dr PR said:

That indicates a single piece lid.

 

My thoughts exactly, Phil.

 

3 hours ago, Dr PR said:

The question then is if you have room for hinges on the bulwark planking over the gun ports? Are the bulwarks high enough on your model to allow the gun barrels to extend freely through the gun port and not strike the top of the port or the underside of the port lids? The guns should be elevated a bit from the horizontal to extend the range (how much I do not know).

 

I will add this to my research list.

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted (edited)

Progress, slowly but surely! The starboard side rat lines are finished. Half way there!

 

Starboardratlines.jpg.f3c2d36a4a791570eb5ef260be5454f3.jpg

 

The forward ratlines were tied with 0.012 inch (0.3 mm) brown polyester rope. The polyester is springy and the knots were untying themselves as fast as I could pull them tight. The clove hitches on the center shroud weren't much of a problem, but the lark's head (cow hitch) knots on the outer shrouds were horrible. I had to put a tiny drop of Duco Cement in the loose knot and then pull it tight and hold until the glue set (20-30 seconds). CA gel would probably work but you would have to be fast - one slip and it could set before the knot is tight or in the right position.

 

I looked through my modeling materials and found a small spool of what appears to be cotton rope of about the same dimension. It was left over from a previous kit - or perhaps this one! I used this for the after ratlines, and used simple overhand knots. After I pulled the knots tight I put a small drop of diluted white glue (1:1 with water) on them. The white glue soaked in and fixed the knot after it set for half an hour or so. This allowed plenty of time to reposition the knot and pull it very tight. It was MUCH easier than trying to use the polyester!

 

****

 

Falconer's Universal Dictionary of the Marine (1769) has this to say about

 

"RATTLINGS, enflechures, certain small lines which traverse the shrouds of a ship horizontally, at regular distances from the deck upwards, and forming a variety of ladders, where by to climb to any of the mastheads, or descend from them. Hence the term is apparently derived from rath, an obsolete word, signifying an hill."

 

Webster's Third New International Dictionary says "rat-line also rat-lin or rat-tling [origin unknown] 1. or ratline stuff small, usu. 3-stranded, tarred rope used for cross ropes on ship's shrouds.

 

Webster thinks rath is an Irish earthwork fortification, perhaps on a hill? "Fairy denizens of rath and hill."

 

And now we know.

Edited by Dr PR

Phil

 

Current build: Vanguard Models 18 foot cutter

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted

She's looking grand Phil.  That is one to be proud of.

Steve

 

San Diego Ship Modelers Guild

Nautical Research Guild


Launched:    USS Theodore Roosevelt, CVN 71 (1/720, Plastic)

                       USS Missouri, BB 63 (1/535 Plastic) 

                       USS Yorktown, CV 5 (1/700, Plastic)

 

In Dry Dock:  Prince de Neufchatel, New York 1812 (1/58, Wood)

                        USS Enterprise, CVAN 65 (1/720, Plastic)

Posted

Hi Phil,

 

Wow just wow! I binged your entire build log last night and I'm almost speechless in astonishment and admiration of your build. Your effort in ensuring historical accuracy and your meticulous attention to the fine details is truly impressive. 

 

I've just resumed building my Mantua Models Albatros, after a 1.5 year hiatus, which is my first wood model ship. I believe my model is the 1971 version, the plans are in Italian, the instruction guide leaves much to be desired, and the kit doesn't provide enough materials on its own. Still, I'm enjoying this craft very much and seeing the ship come together is quite satisfying.

 

I've enjoyed reading your build log and appreciate the time you took to document your process. I'm looking forward to seeing your completed ship. 

 

Best,

Andoni

Posted

Andoni,

 

Glad you enjoyed this log. Since the Albatros is your first wooden ship you should worry less about historical accuracy and getting it "perfect," and use it to learn different methods for building things. There are a lot of folks on the Forum who are happy to answer questions.

Phil

 

Current build: Vanguard Models 18 foot cutter

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted

Very nice, clean lines there, Phil. I am going to "steal" that idea with the PVA glue, it makes a lot of sense! Oh, I like your color scheme too by the way.

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted (edited)

Mark,

 

The white glue soaks into the threads of cotton and silk lines (I prefer silk) and binds the knots. But it doesn't bind to polyester ropes. So the knot really is free to slide up and down on the polyester shrouds if you tug on it hard enough. But for ratlines that isn't a problem. If you did somehow manage to move the knot you just have to slide it back in place and apply a drop of water to loosen the glue. When the water evaporates the glue will set again.

 

I really like silk thread for seizing and such. When it gets wet it goes totally limp, making tight knots and seizing. Cotton is almost as good when it is wet.

Edited by Dr PR

Phil

 

Current build: Vanguard Models 18 foot cutter

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted (edited)

The port ratlines are finished!!!!!!!!!

 

Portratlines.jpg.aef9cd9dc7f6dbc2b1ea8da2b23d8620.jpg

 

The model is almost finished!

 

Portbow.jpg.583c12a76b5dce81b5670bdf91eb8b67.jpg

There are only three things left to do (that I can remember now).

 

First I need to figure out how the port anchor buoy should be handled while the anchor is being fished. Was it pulled out of the water first before the anchor was fished, or left in the water while the anchor was fished? While the crew is fishing the anchor, if the buoy is brought aboard, what did they do with it while handling the anchor?

 

Second, I need to add horses (foot ropes or man ropes) under the jib boom.

 

Third, there is the chafing mats or serving on the main boom topping lift.

 

I need to check my to-do list to see if there is anything else I have forgotten.

Edited by Dr PR

Phil

 

Current build: Vanguard Models 18 foot cutter

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted

Phil, 

 

She is looking brilliant, perfect really. I can not describe it any better! 

 

Nowadays the buoy is brought onboard first, however, the buoy in our days is connected with an anchor hoisting wire. So the wire between the buoy and anchor is dedicated to hoist up the anchor. The second wire is the one actually holding the ship/object that is anchored. In your set-up this is very different of course. 

It does however seem logical to get it out of the way first, since it would defenitely tangle with the anchor and anchor hoisting rope while hoisting the anchor. Something to do with your good friend Murphy. 

 

 

Posted (edited)

One of the details I wanted to add to the model was the "baggywrinkles" (baggywinkles, chafing mats) on the main boom lifts. I posted how I made these from pipe cleaners in this link:

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/38184-chafing-mats-or-service-on-lines/?do=findComment&comment=1100130

 

Here are some photos of the finished part in place on the main boom topping lift.

 

 

Baggywrinkles3.jpg.6dd5cb357492cc90b6cdc6ec4ef28dcf.jpgBaggywrinkles4.jpg.a3128d759ea9e625699245afd4356ee4.jpg

 

I had to unhook the standing part of the lift runner tackle from an eye bolt on deck to give the lift enough slack to wrap into the pipe cleaner coil. Then the tackle was hooked back to the eye bolt to pull the lift taut. The eye bolt is close to the bulwark so I had to use a small dentist's mirror to look down between the deck house and the bulwark to see the hook and eye.

 

As I slowly withdrew the mirror the end of the handle caught on something (fore gaff vangs?). There was a slight tug and then "pop." Another plastic hook broke - on the fore gaff peak halliard upper block. You can see the block hanging down over the gaff at the upper left of the last photo.

 

One step forward, one step back!

Edited by Dr PR

Phil

 

Current build: Vanguard Models 18 foot cutter

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted

Your attention to detail is awe inspiring, Phil. Now I also know what baggy wrinkles are too :) 

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted
21 hours ago, Dr PR said:

What? I thought everyone knew what baggywrinkles are!

 

I am spreading the word, Phil.

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted (edited)

Here is a bit more progress. I have added foot ropes to the bowsprit. Apparently these ropes were called "horses" up through the end of the 1700s (in English). Then they were called "man ropes." Today to be politically correct perhaps we should call them "people ropes." Horses, manropes, people ropes - they are all silly. Obviously they are foot ropes (or footropes)!

 

Footropes1.jpg.22201526510a2bdd1e09256bb6ca5dd5.jpgFootropes2.jpg.4c23a2602414fc9b38cc187f8c3ffcb2.jpg

 

When I started investigating how these ropes were attached I found varying opinions - probably all correct for particular ships at a certain places and times. Lee's Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War says the ropes were attached to eye bolts on the sides of the bowsprit cap. But he talks about large square rigged ships of the line and doesn't belittle himself to talk about the other less important ships like schooners. But I have seen foot ropes on schooner models rigged this way.

 

Lever's The Young Sea Officers Sheet Anchor, Marquardt's Global Schooner and Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models all say the rope was looped around the jib boom behind the bowsprit cap and lead forward to the end of the boom. This is how I have rigged it on this schooner model. The forward ends of the lines could be attached to the end of the jib boom with a cut splice or two eyes. I used two eyes.

 

The books say that often knots were placed at intervals to give the sailors better footing. Again there are different opinions. Depending upon which author you read the knots were this type, that type or some other type. But most say overhand knots were sometimes used, and this is good enough for the model. However, bosun's mates like to tie fancy knots. Left to themselves they often tie elaborate knots to escape the boredom of life at sea, or to look busy when the bosun is looking for someone to do real work.

 

Now I just need to train the foot ropes to hang in a smooth catenary.

 

****

 

I think there are only two things left to do on the model. I am working to finish rigging the port anchor buoy. I will probably rig it like the starboard one, although it might not have been tied in the storage position until after the anchor was secured to the rail.

 

The flag is a problem. I have a good image of the fifteen star and fifteen stripe flag used from 1795 to 1818 (the "Star Spangled Banner"). So far I have printed it only on 24 pound printer paper, and that is pretty heavy. I need to try to print it on thinner paper if I can find some suitable for my printer.

 

I have lost my "to do" list so I think that should finish the model. But I still need to build a suitable display stand.

Edited by Dr PR

Phil

 

Current build: Vanguard Models 18 foot cutter

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted
6 hours ago, Dr PR said:

But I still need to build a suitable display stand.

 

On that note, I found a beautiful old piece of wood here on our property that I intend to shape and use for my stand on the Lynx. I find bringing a natural aspect into something like that, without it being too distracting of course, lends the final display an air of "class". Just my 10 cents worth, Phil.

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

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