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Lincolnville Wherry by John Gummersall - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - SMALL

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I have decided to take on the Lincolnville Wherry...  Seemed like a good one to start with....being a rank beginner,,,,
This is my first build log, so hopefully I will make it informational and interesting for other beginners that would like to build the Wherry...
Be sure to read instructions carefully and try to build the entire model in your mind before you begin.  
Wherry is built from  a jig, and instructions start out explaining the jig build process and showing pictures of the completed jig.   One issue (if you did not read the instructions first) is that, after the jig is built it mentions that you should mark the Stem, frame J5, and the transom pieces with a pencil where the tops of each planks are to be placed.  These marks show the position of the planks before gluing.   It would be very difficult  to use the sketches and mark the frame J5, and the transom pieces with the jig completed.  
I suggest marking the frame J5, and the transom pieces before you build the jig
Below is the completed jig.  You can see it would be very hard to mark the Stem, frame J5, and the transom pieces from the completed jig,
Die cut parts for the Jig were very good.  Only a little sanding required to make the part fit the jig diagram.    
Next step is building the Keel and backbone.  Ran into my first issue.  Note in the next two photos that the stem piece (K1) does not match the plans
Note the Stem (K1) piece seems to be about 4 mm short.  I called BlueJacket and brought the issue to their attention and they said they would cut a new piece and send it out.
I know,,, you more experienced folks probably would have blown right by this and either built an entire new part or added the 4 mm piece at the end, but I wanted to follow 
the plans and at least bring this to the attention of BlueJacket,,,
At this point I am in limbo waiting for the new stem piece to arrive,,,  Hopefully it will show up in the next few days,,,,  🙂
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Welcome to MSW - I assume you are somewhat new making your first post - but this is the place for sharing and learning.  Bluejacket has exceptional customer service and they really listen to their customers.  And if there are other kits on the shelves they will be checking to make sure that part is correct in the boxes and they will make sure future parts are the right length.


Kurt Van Dahm






Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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  • 2 weeks later...

New Stem from BlueJacket showed up 1 week later so I am off to the races,,,,

Below is a picture showing the marks on the stem piece I mentioned earlier,,, as you can see, these marking were a whole lot easier when they are marked before they are glued to the stem.




The plans call for drilling holes in the Stem, Keel, and Stern sections and pinning these sections to the jib...  In the past I have never had very much luck pinning model pieces to a jig...  It seem pins usually come loose or fall out,,, I just do not have the knack for it.


Instead I used a couple clamps and just clamped the Stem and Stern pieces to the jib.  Seem to hold pretty well, but is loose enough to when the planks are glued on, I can wiggle the frame some to insure I do not accidentally clue the planks to the frame.   With CA glue being as running as it is, and me being as sloppy,,, Not being able to wiggle the fame some, I am sure I would have glued some of the planks to the jig.


Below you see the clamps on the Stem and Stern sections and the first plank glued on.




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Planking going along very well,,, should complete the planking in a few days,,,   I am not working at it full time


Die Cut planks are perfect..  As the instructions indicate, soak for  a few minutes, position the plank at the bow section, and then let the plank go over the stern to be trimmed later.


As I noted in earlier posts, I am the world's worse CA "glue'er"... I am not worried about the CA glue marking on the planks as the boat will be primed and painted in the end.   



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  • 4 weeks later...

Planking complete..... Planking went very easy,,,,  Probably too easy as I see to have an issue by not really paying attention to what I was doing,,,  🙂

The planks have a very subtle difference (to me anyway) as to which end is the bow and which is the stern.  Will all the planks soaking in water as I pulled each out to glue to the jig I have a feeling I glued  a few of them reversed,,,,  ugh.     From the outside (which is all we see as the wherry is being built) all looks good.   I matched up the jig markers on the planks and all seemed OK.


But when the boat was taken off the jib it is obvious I had reversed a copule of the planks.    Planking on the inside has a couple planks overlapped too much and some overlapped less than should be.    I might suggest next time to maybe mark each plank as to the bow and stern.   It is too easy reverse some of the planks if you are not paying attention.


A rookie mistake,,, but then again I am a rookie,,,, This is my first model with planking,,, making mistakes is how we learn....   Hopefully I learned something there and will pay more attention to my next planking model   🙂


Anyway,,,, need to sand the outside and then move on to the inside of the wherry....




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  • 1 month later...

Plans call for a 1/16" gripe along the bow where the planks meet.   To me that looked a little thin so I choose to make the grip out of 1/8" wood.  




Plans also called for the inside and outside rub rails to be 1/16" bass wood,,,, again to me it looked too thin, so I used 1/8" basswood instead

The extra width also (to me) allows for the pin pads (for rowing) to better fit the edge of the boat.


The 1/32" x 3/16" stringers were supposed to run only in the middle of the boat... I decided to run them from bow to stern.   Again to me they just seemed to look better running the entire length of the boat






Below shows the ornamental cleat added to the forward edge of the stern seat




The middle two seats were intended to be thin planks. But since the ornamental cleat was added to the forward edge of the stern seat, they just seem to thin.   Below show I added a 1/8" strip to the forward and aft edges of the bottom of the two seats.    The seats will look better (stronger) when they are placed into the boat.


Normally at this time, the seats should be glued into the boat.  I have them out at this time for painting,,,  Painting comes next,,,,


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  • 4 weeks later...

Wherry is in it's final home... Similar to the boats in the picture above it.


The rope that came with the model, while is probably to scale, looked a little "thread like".  Instead I opted for a candle stick wick.   Wick used to make candles.   It is braided and looks pretty good.    The fish net is an extra strong hair net used by female equestrians with long hair...   That too looks pretty good to me as a fish net.


Anyway, I really enjoyed this build, but being a novice builder, I did make some mistakes.    My main issue was mentioned earlier when I only lined up the plank marks at the bow and stern.   I did not think the mark in the middle of the plank mattered.   While the exterior  of the wherry looks good, some of the planks on the inside are too close or too far from the next plank.   Next planked ship I will pay closer attention.


Also as mentioned earlier it is not real obvious, to a beginner, the bow and stern of each plank... especially when they are all in water soaking.   I would recommend, if you are not sure as to the bow and stern of each plank, to mark the bow and/or stern of each plank,,, just so you do not make the same mistake I made and install them reversed.


Have fun,,,,  I did,,,


Edited by John Gummersall
Corrected Some Spelling Errors
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Our sponsor, Chesapeake Light Craft, makes a very nice kit for a full-size wherry. If I had the time and $$$ and space and towing capacity for such a project ... but I guess that's four strikes already. 😐

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Salmson 2, Speeljacht

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