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Posted (edited)

When I have a gap between pieces of wood, similar to what you are experiencing, I mix glue with some fine sawdust into a very sticky paste.  I then push it into the gap and smooth it out with an old chisel.

Tom

Edited by wyz
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1).

The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel.

Winchelsea-006.jpg.bf897fbc998716ae03b84bafd2cec0ab.jpg

 

Winchelsea-007.jpg.35cf1c06180a610ddd96e9da8ffb2da9.jpg

 

Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together.

 

Winchelsea-005.jpg.a7ce6a15cc6947af9c9531a6f2df3d41.jpg

 

For sanding the edges and removing the laser char I sawed a small sanding block out of balsa wood.

 

Winchelsea-008.jpg.6687f6aa5b1c5490e61ed8498252a353.jpg

 

Regards Christian

 

Current build: HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HM Sloop Fly, 1776 - 1/36

On the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776, Comet, 1783 and Aetna, 1776; Naval Cutter Alert, 1777

Paused: HMS Triton, 1771 - 1/48

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

Posted

Nice joinery on the knee, Christian. Not that you would need to do this with Chuck's laser cut parts, but. . .To get a 90° edge I usually sand the adhered sandpaper flush with the edge of the block. I will then raise the part off the table slightly with a thin sheet of wood so the sandpaper touches the entire edge of the part being sanded.

 

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Posted

Mike, that's the same technic I use. The black color is mostly the laser char. I only egalize the small edges where two parts fits together and a third part has to be glued. With this stick it is really easy to sand the outer edge, which is not visible in the foto.

Regards Christian

 

Current build: HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HM Sloop Fly, 1776 - 1/36

On the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776, Comet, 1783 and Aetna, 1776; Naval Cutter Alert, 1777

Paused: HMS Triton, 1771 - 1/48

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

Posted

Christian, I too wish to rig Winchelsea.  Thank you for the reminder to cut out the positions of the masts in the false keel.  I think I might make the holes for the masts 3-dimensional by building out on each side of the false keel.   That way there isn't any wiggle room in ANY direction.  I want a snug fit.

Tom

Posted

Tom,

 

For the fore and main mast you have to cut out the frames. Especially for the for mast is nothing more than necessary. For the main mast I will add an extra piece of wood. For the mizzenmast it's not necessary. It get the correct poistion form the main- and quarterdeck.

Regards Christian

 

Current build: HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HM Sloop Fly, 1776 - 1/36

On the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776, Comet, 1783 and Aetna, 1776; Naval Cutter Alert, 1777

Paused: HMS Triton, 1771 - 1/48

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

  • 8 months later...
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