US Brig Syren by Matt H - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

[Matt H]

So just before wrapping up my first build the 18th Century Longboat, I decided to purchase this kit because of the excellent instructions. I also have a couple others on my shelf waiting to be built, the HMS Endevour's Longboat by Artesania Latina and the HMS Granado by Caldercraft. I intended on building the AL longboat first, but found the instructions very lacking in any sort of detail. So I picked up the 18 Century Longboat and worked on it for a little bit, before planking felt daunting and it sat for about 6 months before I finally decided to give it a go. Finished planking, then found I wasn't ready to try shaping and cutting out the cap rails, floorboards, or decks, so it sat again, and little over a year later, last month, I dug it out and finished it, my build log is below in my signature. I had intended on doing the Granado after that one, it's directions look pretty good, but I think the Syren's directions are a bit better and I was able to get it on a good sale a couple weeks ago.

 

So here I am starting my second build, I will move on to the Granado after I finish this one and one day I'll get around to AL's HMS Endevour. I won't have nearly as much time as I have had these past 2 weeks, where I've finished the longboat, it's back to work for me. I am a high school CAD drafting and wood shop teacher, so my summer officially ended Sunday. Back to work for me yesterday, students return Monday. I plan to work on it a little each night and will try to remember to take photos and journal what I have done here on a regular basis.

 

First off here is my complete workstation. I have enough wall space to hang the large plans on the wall to the left of area. The smaller plans for the Syren I folded up the white space around the edges and taped them up on the back side, they are small enough to fit in my work area when I need them.

 

 

Next up is the required unboxing. 

 

 

Looks like I got the good sheets of wood and not the pink plywood I've heard about. My plans and templates also came the correct size and scale.

 

 

I saw someone here do this to their manual and I thought it was an excellent idea. So when I finished my 18 Century Longboat I put it into a folder and protective sleeves just like this. I was just barely able to fit all the pages in with just enough length on the metal tabs to fold them over and contain all the pages securely.

 

 

One of the plans, with the empty white space folded up and taped in the back.

 

 

I took a complete inventory of all the parts, although admittedly I didn't count each and every block, deadeye, nail, eyelet, etc. I tapes and labeled the sizes of the various wood stock.

 

 

And placed all the small items in a small plastic case with dividers.

 

 

[Matt H]

The bulkhead former is slightly warped, it has a bow in the middle. I think it will be easily corrected with some filler blocks.

 

[RickyGene]

A most excellent choice for your next project.  You also have a nice boat slip to bring your build to life.  Might I make a suggestion.  A slight warp can be dealt with pretty easily.  But yours looks really worse for wear.  Fire a e-mail off to Model Expo and I bet they will replace with a flat one.  I have never had them not respond to a request for replacement.  I too had to learn the hard way with a warped FK after thinking I had fixed it, resulting in that build being shelved.  Looking forward to your build.

Rick

[Matt H]

19 hours ago, RickyGene said:

A most excellent choice for your next project.  You also have a nice boat slip to bring your build to life.  Might I make a suggestion.  A slight warp can be dealt with pretty easily.  But yours looks really worse for wear.  Fire a e-mail off to Model Expo and I bet they will replace with a flat one.  I have never had them not respond to a request for replacement.  I too had to learn the hard way with a warped FK after thinking I had fixed it, resulting in that build being shelved.  Looking forward to your build.

Rick

Thank you for the advice, I was debating on whether to ask for a new one or if this was easily managed with filler blocks. Thanks for the input.

[Matt H]

The replacement bulkhead former showed up today, it too has a bit of a bow, but no twist or kink, once tightened down in my homemade keel clamp it is almost straightened out, once the filler blocks are attached it should be good to go. I have soaked the rabbet strip and it is currently being held in place with a clamp and rubber bands. Once it dries later tonight I will glue it in place and let it set overnight before cutting the rabbet out tomorrow.

[Matt H]

Here's a couple of photos of the strip for the rabbet formed and attached to the bottom and stern of the bulkhead former. I left just a little bit hanging over the top of the stem and the bottom of the stern, they will be sanded flush with the adjacent edges, the top of the stern will be cut and sanded off as well.

 

[Matt H]

Got the bearding line done. First time I've ever made a bearding line. Along the very bottom and center there was very little to trim away, most of the shaping was at the stern. Then I sanded and shaped the stem knee and fit tested the figurehead. That took a while, a combination of sanding with small 1/2" x 1/2" blocks, by hand, and a little bit with a dremel sanding drum. I'm happy with how it turned out, I did have to cut out one of each of the head rails and compare it to the photos in Chapter 10 to make sure I had the figurehead positioned correctly to allow room for the head rails and the use of the pre-drilled holes in the knee. Lastly I attached the knee to the bulkhead former with a combination of rubberbands and clamps to hold in in place tightly against the bulkhead former and centered along the edge.

 

 

 

 

 

[Matt H]

I have also attached the keel and temporarily taped the false keel on as per the instructions. I have removed all the bulkheads and did a quick dry fit test. They all fit great, a couple are rather tight, I didn't force them in until I get the laser char removed and shape the bevel a bit following the guided marks provided. I will update with more photos once I have the bulkheads sanded, shaped, and attached.

[Matt H]

I finished sanding down the laser char from the bulkeads and top of the bulkhead former. I also jotted down several measurements for all the filler blocks. I am a high school CAD drafting and wood shop teacher so I'll joint up a couple of scrap pieces of alder and cut it down to size for the filler blocks. Alder is the cheapest and lightest hardwood I have in stock. I also have spruce, wormy maple, walnut, cherry, red oak, and African mahogany. I have plenty of scrap lying around for all the above, if someone has a better suggestion than alder let me know.

 

I think I am going to attempt to fill the whole space between bulkheads from the deck down to the bottom of the bulkheads. Is there a downside to doing this? From what I have read it can be beneficial to have filler blocks at deck level to give a good solid surface for the deck to sit on. Also having the fillers extend out to the outboard edges of the bulkheads gives a good surface for the planks to attach to. So with those benefits are there any drawbacks to putting in filler blocks that would essentially make it a solid hull from the deck down?

Edited August 28, 2019 by mjh410

[GrandpaPhil]

The only downside is weight, but if you are not worried about weight, then there is no downside that I know of.

[Matt H]

I haven't abandoned this project, I just haven't made much progress. I attempted to make some filler blocks out of some scrap alder I have at work and it is just to hard of a wood. I don't have the tools at home to get the blocks to the correct thickness so I get it roughly close at work with the planer. Once I get home though they are a little tight and I just can't plane it further or sand it well enough at home to get them to fit. The hard wood just doesn't sand down well enough to use sanding as a method to adjust the thickness. 

 

So I'm going to have to get some balsa blocks and I just haven't had a chance to get in to the city to go to a lumber store or hobby stores to find some. I may order online, but I'd rather look in person to see what I can get.

 

In the mean time I have begun ordering the Sovereign of the Seas through DeAgostini Model Space, they offer a 12 months subscription service that breaks the cost down to 12 monthly payments and 12 shipments. I received the second month and so far I am pleased with the quality of the materials and the color magazine/instruction books. I will make a build log for that ship soon. I have begun assembling a few parts of the bow and false keel. I have also started putting together and painting up one of the cannon's. What's nice about this company is that each shipment has a few side projects to break up the monotony of some phases of ship building. I got 2 cannon kits and a longboat in the first month's shipment.

 

I will get some photos up in a new build log soon. I will update here once I get a chance to get some balsa or basswood filler blocks.

[J11]

Love that work station and your organization. I also have a limited work station and mines on wheels as to work in the family room being with the family all the time. 

Great build progress and look forward to your updates.  

[NovaStorm]

Amazon is a good bet for balsa filler blocks Matt ~

[Matt H]

So it has been a while since I last updated, and in fact since I have done anything with this ship. I have since set this aside and began and am now nearly finished with the Viking Drakkar, that built is in my signature. I will update with photos soon, but I had a question I wanted to pose first. First I have installed filler blocks and smaller/thinner blocks outwards almost to the inside of the inner bulwarks. This will give me a good base for the deck. 

 

My question is how to drill holes for the masts. Unfortunately I did not think of this until it was too late. I would have followed some other build logs I have come across, where they marked and cut out the bulkhead former before the bulkhead were attached. It is must to late for me to do that, so any suggestions on how to get the correct angle and drill out the mast holes once the bulkhead and filler blocks are installed? I'd rather do it now than wait until chapter 12 and do it after the deck is finished.

[NovaStorm]

You should still be able to drill it the same way as in the instructions Matt. The only difference will be in the thickness of the decking. From what I have seen in some logs a block is drilled with the correct angle for the mast. The block is held down on on the deck surface and the drill inserted into the hole which acts as a guide. Your hole does not have to be the thickness of the mast base remember so it shouldn't be to hard to do. Check out Thomas Gahm's build Page 8 Here

[Charley54]

Hi Matt. Think I will follow along. I also have a Syren build that I haven't updated for awhile. Enjoy.