Glazing

[Kurt Johnson]

I was trying to remember unsuccessfully, which of the clear materials used to glaze windows, etc has the best non-yellowing properties. Where does the material used in blister packaging stand?  Is it acetate?  
 

oh no, I already forgot what I was forgetting.
 

Kurt 

[Kurt Johnson]

I guess, I shouldn’t have put the last line in. I was just be silly. The question was real though.

 

Kurt 

[Jaager]

These should not yellow,  although I will probably go thru a couple of packs to obtain the skill necessary to get the shape right in breaking this thin fragile glass to size.

 

[druxey]

Old time model-makers used mica, a natural silicate rock that can be split into very thin layers. It cuts easily with sharp scissors. Some samples have a yellowish tinge, but other pieces are clear.

[dvm27]

I have never had luck cutting these cover slips to shape to shape. Even took them to a stained glass shop and frustrated the heck out of them. Mica, on the other hand is quite easy to work with and is easily cut.

[wefalck]

The materials and techniques used would also depend on the scale, the period, the absolute size of the panes, and whether the windows could be seen from the outside only or also from the inside. There are numerous options.

[Kris Avonts]

Mica is a good choice if you can find some clear samples. They are still used in electronic circuits to (electrically) isolate power transistors from aluminium (aluminum for the US folks) heat sinks.

So you can find them in shops where they sell electronic components (or the internet of course).

Most popular will be isolation sets for TO3 or TO220 style packages for power transistors.

Here are some sample pictures.

A typical TO220 mounting kit:

These mica plates are 13 by 18 mm and about 0.15 mm thick.

 

Also a remark on cutting the thin glass cover plates. If you want to cut these you need a fine point diamond scriber.

Something like this:

With some practise it should be possible to break the glass with a straight cut.

During good scribing you can hear the glass cracking by the heat generated at the contact spot. It should not break however.

Then turn the glass over (scribe down) and place on a flat surface of material that is slightly compressible.

Place a small (ground) metal rod over the scribe and press it down gently.... crack, your plate is split.

 

so far my 2 cents on this topic, best regards,

   Kris

 

[MEDDO]

After seeing the results with mica I will never use anything else.  It is so easy to use and looks great.  A few bucks gets basically a lifetime supply.