samueljr Posted February 24, 2020 Share #1 Posted February 24, 2020 Hi I'm working on a commission project in 1/4" scale and am looking for a good treatment/method of the internal lining of the scuppers. I've got (I think) the exterior discharge under control but am looking for the inboard / intake (waterway) side. I recently saw a thread where the builder did a nice job of it and I can't remember the thread. It wasn't focused on the scuppers, it was just one of the details illustrated. Any help and/or direction would be appreciated. Moderators, if this should be in on deck thread please move Thanks! Sam Quote ABSOLUTELY NOTHING UNDER DEVELOPMENT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanyed Posted February 25, 2020 Share #2 Posted February 25, 2020 Sam, What ship/era are you building? David Antscherl gives a very detailed explanation and drawings in volume II of The Fully Framed Model for the Swan Class Sloops of 1767-1780 on pages 73 and 74 but this may not apply to your ship if it is a totally different era, nationality, etc. Allan mtaylor 1 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wefalck Posted February 25, 2020 Share #3 Posted February 25, 2020 If you are talking about those lead pipes that lead from the inside of the waterways outboard, you may consider using hollow soldering tin. Dissolved the resin in aceton and shabe it to your needs. mtaylor, davyboy and Mark P 3 Quote wefalck panta rhei - Everything is in flux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted February 25, 2020 Share #4 Posted February 25, 2020 (edited) I am thinking that paper may one of the few flexible materials that will be close to scale. Given how we see scale effect, a bit under scale may look better. At the extreme end is Silkspan and the tissue used for holding expensive presents. A jig the size of the scupper hole in a material that PVA will not bond with can be used to shape the PVA soaked paper. After it dries in shape, it can then be primed and then coated with lead colored paint. Saves having to mask each scupper. Edited February 25, 2020 by Jaager mtaylor 1 Quote NRG member 45 years Current: HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 ship - timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wefalck Posted February 25, 2020 Share #5 Posted February 25, 2020 Jaager, I think you are talking about freeing ports, not scuppers ? mtaylor 1 Quote wefalck panta rhei - Everything is in flux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted February 25, 2020 Share #6 Posted February 25, 2020 (edited) I use acrylic paint to simulate the turned over lead of a scupper. Edited February 25, 2020 by druxey paulsutcliffe, allanyed, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wefalck Posted February 25, 2020 Share #7 Posted February 25, 2020 On very small models I just turned a soft (6B) pencil in the respective holes. mtaylor 1 Quote wefalck panta rhei - Everything is in flux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted February 25, 2020 Share #8 Posted February 25, 2020 My experience was with the topsail schooner Eagle and the scuppers were fairly large rectangular openings. I was not seeing a round or oval hole in my mind. mtaylor 1 Quote NRG member 45 years Current: HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 ship - timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samueljr Posted February 26, 2020 Author Share #9 Posted February 26, 2020 To everyone who responded - THANKS! I've been experimenting with a few different solutions and I'm leaning towards the less is more philosophy. The scupper lining is a great detail if subtle enough - too much and it looks like a gaping hole in the waterway. I'm either going to go with Druxey's acrylic paint solution (thanks David) or just a thin paper for for the lip. The issue other than size is the consistency of the shape. Thank's again to everyone Stay well Sam mtaylor and druxey 2 Quote ABSOLUTELY NOTHING UNDER DEVELOPMENT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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