Half Hull Project by LyleK1 - FINISHED - NRG

[LyleK1]

Hi all,

This is my first build log. I didn't discover this site until I was nearly finished with my first build, the HMS Terror. I am planning to post pictures of the Terror in the "Completed models" section.

A quick introduction... I am new to the hobby with about one year of experience but that one year has been a lot fun and a lot of learning. I am really diving in and am very interested in making historically accurate models. My next project, AL's HMS Bounty, is one that I plan to do a lot of kit bashing and hopefully producing a historically accurate model. I am still a working guy and I find time in the evenings and the weekends to work on my projects. I also own a boat and spend a lot of time on it.

I joined the NRG a few months ago and am learning from all of you! This half hull project will help me be a better, more historically accurate builder!

So, here we go!

I received the kit about a month ago but didn't get going on it until today!

The kit came well boxed and wrapped in material to prevent damage from occurring, especially to the planking material:

Inside the plastic bag are three pieces of laser-cut plywood, one with the frames, etc and one with the keel sections. Wrapped in the bubble wrap are four sheets of basswood:

Also, included is the plans - a single piece of paper:

The nice folks at NRG emailed the instructions to me in a separate email. I'll be following these to the letter! Or at least trying!

The first thing to be done is adhere the plans to a working board. I happen to have a piece of 1/4" foam board laying around and I decided to use it for my working surface. I have a 3M spray adhesive and chose that for my glue:

  

Once the glue was tacky enough, I laid the plans down and smoothed out ensuring there were no wrinkles or bubbles:

...and trimmed the edges of the board to match the plans:

Next, I removed the keel sections and laid them out on the plans. The pieces have not been cleaned up or the char removed yet.

That's it for this post!

I know that there are two other build logs on the site, one from the original builder and one other. I hope that my log will show something different that will help others down the road.

More to come!

[VTHokiEE]

Nice to see another planking log; if you look hard you probably can find 2-4 more (but none are finished aside from Toni’s). I would like to get back to mine but the siren’s call of my other kit was too strong. One thing to keep an eye on is that the thick ply has (at least for me) quite a slope due to the kerf of the laser. Make certain to get that leveled out. I had a few comments in my log that I would do differently if I started all over. Have fun!

[LyleK1]

Glad to see another build log!

I'll take some time to peruse it this weekend! Headed out on the boat for a little "self quarantining" with the wife!

I'll get back to it next week! 

[VTHokiEE]

Have fun! Here is a search that brought up a handful of the started logs:

 

https://modelshipworld.com/search/?q=18th century merchantman&quick=1

[LyleK1]

Moving on to the laying out and cutting of the rabbet...

Seems pretty straight forward and was!

Following the instructions, I drew out the lines on the keel, keelson, stem and stemson.

Having never done this, I was a little confused and grateful to find the build logs to look at for clarification:

The rabbet along the straight sections of the keel is essentially a 45 degree cut in each piece 1/32" deep. It gets a little more complicated at the stem. Again, essentially, the 90 degree cut (total cut when both pieces are combined) gradually works in to a 45 degree cut on the stem only. Again, staying at the width of the planking material (1/32").

I chose to cut the rabbet with a sanding block. Pretty simple and took very little time but its important to keep the cut uniform in the angle of the cut and the depth (1/32").

The curved stem pieces were a bit more work but the sanding block I used has a curved surface and made it easier... The final result after gluing the pieces to the working board:

Next are the frames... I removed a couple and found the slots to be a little sloppy, no need to enlarge the width. However the keelson slots will need to be cut deeper per the instructions. Also, after reading some of the other logs, I'll be checking that each frame sits flat on the working board.

That's for tomorrow!

Edited March 25, 2020 by LyleK1

[LyleK1]

So, over the last few days I've cut the frame notches deeper to accommodate the frames and begun gluing in the frames:

As I noted in the previous post (a hint from another log) the base of the frames did need a little leveling out... not too much but definitely need to be done.

Also, as I placed each frame, I measured the distance between them at the base and the top to ensure the distance remained uniform.

More to come once I place all the frames!

[LyleK1]

Frames E through 4 are now in place. No real problems and am happy with the results. I did end up cutting a couple of the frame slots a little deeper to ensure the garboard would fit properly into the rabbet.

The next step is to install the spacers between the frames. Again, fairly simple work:

Some of the spacers required a little sanding (besides the charred edges)... Some required a shim to make them fit properly. I used a piece of thin planking material from a previous build and it worked perfectly.

Once the shims had been glued and dried, the rest of the spacers were installed.

According to the instructions, the next step is to get the bearding line plotted and sanded. I found this step to be a bit confusing and after looking at some of the other build logs... I'm still a little uncertain on how to proceed! I messaged Toni Levine for some guidance. I'll be sure to clarify my confusion and the proper steps on my next post!

[LyleK1]

Bearding line... And how to properly fair the deadwood was where I got a little stuck. I messaged Toni Levine for some clarification and after getting her response and looking at a few more pictures (the final product, in particular), I realized that the deadwood was being faired or sanded from the bearding line to the aft edges and along the keel. The sanding would be a gradual decrease ending at the same thickness as the planking material (1/32"). Simple!

The picture doesn't show much... which was I struggled with what to do. But with the stern post and keel in place, there is a difference of 1/32" in height. Once the planks are laid they will butt up against the stern and keel for a flush finish!

Moving on!

I have all the frames in place and their spacers:

Some of the spacers had to be handmade... Also, on the foremost frame I added a very thin piece to make sure the bulkhead ended right at the rabbet. I'll be adding one more piece to make it the proper shape.

I marked out the top line along the frames and will begin sanding them to make an even top. On the foremost frame I had to add a little wood to make it to the top line:

Fairing the frames is next!

[LyleK1]

Before fairing, I cleaned up the tops of the frame to match the lines on  the plan. I still have a little touching up to do but they are pretty close...

I used a piece of thread to run along the frames and found several frames that needed some shimming:

Although not shocked, I was a little surprised by the amount of shimming that I needed to do because I was very careful setting up the frames. Nevertheless, shims installed!

The tape is to protect the softer basswood keel sections and deadwood...

Fairing started... More later!

[LyleK1]

For the last few days I have been slowly fairing and shimming and shimming and fairing!

And the results are pretty good... still have a spots to finish up.

I made a big mistake with the placement of one frame that took a lot of shimming. Frame 5 was not set properly. I did not notch the keel deep enough. I should've noticed... but I didn't:

The result of my error is that the frame was set back too far. The picture below shows it:

Rather than remove it and mess with re gluing, etc. I chose to shim it out. It took a few shims and sanding but the results are good!

The pictures below show the fairing nearly completed. Should finish today... Found a couple of spots to touch-up using a string and running over the frames to ensure no dips or humps from frame to frame:

Once the sanding is done, I'll mark the Wale lines. Frame B has been marked.

More to come!

[VTHokiEE]

14 minutes ago, LyleK1 said:

Rather than remove it and mess with re gluing, etc.

What glue are you using? PVA comes off pretty easily with IPA (I was pretty nervous of doing this, until I did it). 
 

Everything is looking nice! You’re making me want to return to my half hull.

[LyleK1]

I am using a wood glue (Elmer's)... I didn't know an Indian Pale Ale would release the glue! Hahaha!

Pretty tight around that area and just thought it would be easier to shim rather than remove and fix.

Fairing is the least favorite part of the build for me... but I do find some satisfaction in getting it right!

I am enjoying the build and learning a lot!

[VTHokiEE]

16 minutes ago, LyleK1 said:

I didn't know an Indian Pale Ale would release the glue! Hahaha!

A pale ale solves most everything 🙂, of course isopropyl alcohol is usually preferred for wood glue removal (PVA glue).

[dcicero]

Welcome to the project, Lyle.  I'm just a little farther along than you are.  My build log is here, case you haven't found it:  

 

I've made some progress beyond this and have taken a number of pictures.  I need to make some time to get everything posted.

 

 

Dan

 

 

 

[LyleK1]

Thanks  Dan.

I have been following your build log too!

It's always nice to have a few pictures and examples when I'm a little unsure of how to move forward.

[LyleK1]

So, got the wale lines marked and used some chart tape to check for good fairing and alignment.

In the last picture, you'll notice the gap between the frames and tape... more sanding, oh boy!

... a little while later...

Let the planking begin!

Following the instructions of marking the height of the garboard and the frames and well documented in the other build logs (yeah, I forgot to take pictures!), I cut my first piece, the aft garboard:

After much thought, I devised a clamping system that would hold the plank in place but not mar the surface of the soft basswood. First plank down and drying!

When gluing into place I made sure that the plank was down in the rabbet and I noticed a mistake I made when doing the rabbet... extending it to the stern post. Not sure if I'll leave it alone or possibly use a a little glue and sawdust to fill it... we' ll see how it looks!

[LyleK1]

I'll just say, cutting your own planks is tougher than it looks! Especially when trying to match it up with the one below...

I have completed the garboards and the broad strakes. I think I could've done better but overall it looks ok. Sometimes I'm my own worst critic.

The pictures below show the process of making one planking and the results:

First a picture of the completed aft garboard:

Laying out and cutting the fore garboard:

And gluing into place:

And  the broad strakes:

Next is the laying out of the planking belts, marking them and beginning the third row.

See you soon!

 

[LyleK1]

Been doing some boating... Back at the half hull.

Pictures below show the first row of planks being installed. 

The process worked well but I need to work on my free hand cutting.

See what you think:

Next row tomorrow!

[LyleK1]

Made some good progress over the weekend!

Think I'm finally getting the hang of this!

In Toni Levine's tutorial, she outlines two different methods of marking out the next plank to be used. Method 1 is using a compass to trace the pattern of the plank below the one you are making... I used this method for several planks before trying method 2...

Method 2 is laying a piece of tape overlapping the lower plank and tracing the plank edge with a pencil. I found this method to be more to my liking and have switched to using it. My seams are little tighter and I haven't had to re-make any planks (so far!).

Here is a couple pictures of my progress through today:

I am much happier with the last couple of planking rows. I have one plank left to finish the lower belt.

I have marked out the area for the stealer and as you can see in one of the pictures above, it will be on the agenda next!

This picture shows the outline of the stealer and the filler piece I had to install for it to end on.

Another update in a few days!

Edited April 27, 2020 by LyleK1
Typo's

[Voyageur]

Very nice. This will be my next project. I’m glad you mentioned methodology you liked. It seems to me that the method 2 you prefer would also be that one that I would also prefer. I’ll keep watching your progress and learning as you go.

[LyleK1]

Thanks Voyageur!

Hope some of my rambling helps!

 

The lower belt of planks are done!

...and the aft stealer is installed!

The stealer was easier than I thought it would be... getting the planks back on parallel with the wales.

On to the middle belt!

[RGR III]

Looks great.  Thanks for posting your log.

[LyleK1]

Thanks RGR...

But I didn't like the bow. Bugged me that it was starting to curve up in the smiley face!

Soooo... I took it apart and re-planked the last three layers:

Gotta be very careful when shaping and cutting the bow pieces. The were to wide and began swooping upwards!

It's never fun to remove work that you've already done! 

The results are much more to my liking:

After messing with the bow and getting it right, I got started on the middle belt planks. The stern piece had to be cut to fit the stealer and accomplish the final step in getting back in parallel with the wales.

Mission accomplished:

Onwards!

[dcicero]

Hi, Lyle,

 

I'm really enjoying your build log, particularly because you're a little ahead of me.  I've got the planking belts laied out now and am ready to start planking.  I'm wondering how you handled Toni's direction to:  "Make a sketch of the frame plan and planking belts, including the garboard and broad strakes."  That's my next step and I was just wondering how sophisticated that sketch has to be.

 

Dan

 

[LyleK1]

Hi Dan!

Funny... I used your build log through the first several steps as help for me! So, thank you for your pictures and logs too.

I've started on the middle belt and have the first of 4 rows laid down... updates to this log later tonight or tomorrow.

The "sketch" Toni is referring to, is a sketch of where your plank butts will fall. Keeping in mind the "rules" she laid out for distance between butts and layers between butts. Her pattern for the lower plank belt worked great for me and I used her locations. I marked them right on the frames with a red pen. See the picture below:

I'm figuring the locations out for the middle belt on my own.

Finally understanding the method/reasons for the historically accurate planking. Looking forward to trying it on my next build (AL's HMS Bounty)!

Let me know if I can help any further and good luck!

[LyleK1]

Working on the middle planking belt. No real problems with this part... yet!

Two rows completed and now starting on the third row. Formed the aft plank with water and heat. Seen here clamped down until it is dry.

Speaking of clamps, with the spacers now coming into play, clamping with my current method may become a bit more of a challenge. I may need to be a little creative to clamp full planks.

We'll see over the next few days!

[LyleK1]

I thought I would take some time to show the process of marking, cutting and placing a plank. I have tried both methods that Toni offered in the tutorial and I have found that this one works best for me!

The plank I've chosen is a relatively straight piece but gets the method across!

 

First, I lay out a piece of tape onto the frames ensuring that I overlap the plank below. Additionally, make sure the tape is flat and tight against the the frames and lower plank. In some cases, you may need to use more than one piece (especially at the bow and stern) to navigate the curvature of the hull:

As you can see, I've marked the center of each frame that the plank will touch and I've used a pencil to trace along the upper edge of the previous plank. Take your time doing this part, it's critical for a good tight fit!.

Once the trace is done, remove the tape and place it on your cutting surface. Using a straight edge or a french curve, cut the traced edge from the tape. Now you should have an exact match for your lower edge. Test it by putting the piece of tape back on the frames and check for gaps, etc.

Nice tight fit! Once your happy with the fit, place the tape back on your cutting surface and mark out the height of your plank. The height for my plank is 4mm. This is an exact match to the adjacent plank that this one butts up too. Mark your frame centers with the height of the plank measuring from your cut:

And then, using a straight edge or french curve mark your top edge:

Then transfer your tape to the basswood for cutting:

In this case, because I had a really straight piece, I only have to cut the top edge. That doesn't happen too often! I lay a straight edge along the top line and carefully score the wood (just enough pressure to cut through the tape and score the wood). It is quite easy to get off track when doing this step. So, be careful and cut slowly. Subsequent cuts are done with a little more pressure until the piece is cut out:

Don't throw that piece of tape out! Make sure your piece fits exactly they way you want... If it doesn't, you still have your template!

Take your newly cut out plank and dry fit it... looking for gaps or other issues that may need some light sanding for a better fit. In this case, it was a really good fit:

Next, I used a pencil and rubbed the lower edge and the butts to simulate the caulking between planks:

Using a syringe, I applied glue along the plank edge that mates to this one and to frames:

Placing the plank, clamping it down and removing any excessive glue is the final steps:

The planks at the bow and stern require a little more work and will need to be bent, shaped and dried before gluing into place.

I hope this better describes the process that each plank gets before placing! I've found that it gets easier as I go!

 

[LyleK1]

The lower and middle belts are done!

On to the next couple of layers and then the wale.

[LyleK1]

The first layer of the wale is in place!

The dropped plank at the bow is the next step. And although the tutorial doesn't have two, I'm doing a second one because I got a little out of whack and I've decide to make it up with two dropped planks. The first is shown above ready to glue to the hull:

Second layer of the wale is going on now.

 

[LyleK1]

I needed some better clamps... finally got them!

The Wale is done!

Now to finish the planking to the wale:

More to come soon!