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VTHokiEE

NRG Member
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Everything posted by VTHokiEE

  1. I can only give you my experience with the second book. I bought Ship Modeling Simplified: Tips and Techniques for Model construction from Kits by Frank Mastini when I was getting my first kit because it seemed to be highly recommended. The book wasn’t expensive but I didn’t really use it very much and I only read about a 3rd of it. This forum simply provided more knowledge in a more searchable form than I found in the book. The forum has great examples of so many components of construction in build logs and many general questions answered in the other forum areas that I passed the book along to make room for others in my library.
  2. Underneath the poll, next to the submit button click "Show Results" and you should be able to see the results.
  3. I looked at several instructions for Mamoli kits and while they all had the CM descriptor only one (instructions for the Sâo Miguel ART. MV21) had a label for CM and that label was in Polish only (it was removed from the English translation portion of the instructions). It stated: CM – sklejka 1,5 mm which using Google translate, appears to translate as plywood. That translation makes sense for, at least some of, the parts that I saw labeled as CM. Hope that helps.
  4. I really should get some weather power - your cannons (as well as everything else) look awesome. I have to stop looking before I convince myself that I need an airbrush as well. You have done a remarkable job with your Winchelsea!
  5. The minimum aperture for Nikon macro lenses is typically f/32, but as you focus down to 1:1 the effective aperture is smaller.
  6. Very excited to follow your build as I have considered doing the Hayling Hoy as well as a first scratch ship. I think that how close you get to the line probably depends on the part. My experience with the frames on my cross section was that I should have left a a good bit more on the parts than I did to account for fairing (maybe leaving 1-2 mm? outside the line to account for fairing), but this is probably also due to my inexperience building and raising the frames. I imagine (hope?) that as I get more scratch work under my belt I can get closer for the frames at least. Looks great so far!
  7. @Rustyj Thanks! I’ve had to reset my expectations on how long this project will take, but I’m loving every chance I get to be in the shipyard. @druxey Why of course it will (at least that’ll be my story regardless 😂).
  8. @glbarlow Thanks a lot - there have certainly been a lot of challenges to overcome, not certain that I've quite "mastered" any yet though :-). I've been continuing work on the lower deck framing and while not perfect I'm happy with how the cross section is shaping up. I struggled for a little bit trying to determine how to score the mortises (joints?) for the ledges and carlings until I recalled my mantra for this build - go re-read TTFM book 1 and of course there was a nice tip for how to easily make pseudo joints which I attempted to follow. The picture thats follow show how I set the angle for the score on beam and then the finished cut. I did my best to get the matching score aligned, but they are slightly off - though it isn't very noticeable until you really start staring at the deck and I think it will be even less noticeable when the upper deck is added (though I will have to be more exact there). I have to add the center hanging knees and lodging knees before finishing out the deck framing, but here is where I currently stand.
  9. One way to find their build logs is to switch to the topic list instead of post list in the profile.
  10. Dust can trigger my allergies as well - I tend to use a mask as well as a shop vac positioned near the sanding zone to try to keep the air clear. I think there are some other air filtration units that can be effective for this as well, but having the shop vac on (and wearing ear protection) has helped a lot.
  11. I can’t say that I see any wrong but I do think your stern could probably use some more fairing. I added the counter after I had faired the stern further (which I believe @tlevine did the same looking at the original build log). I used a bunch of Emory style boards (from the cosmetic section of a general retailer) to do a lot of the fairing and recall really having to work a lot on both the bow and stern. You’re doing a good job!
  12. That’s a good tip that I wish I knew earlier. Very cool project!
  13. @Dulrakk Great review, I saw the comment (linked below) from Chris on his thread and the issue looks like it happened to your deck.
  14. Looks like you’re off to a good start! I’m so impressed with people who can juggle multiple builds; for better or worse I find that I can only focus on one thing at a time (but darn if some other kits in the garage aren’t calling my name every time I walk out there). Looking forward to seeing what you do with this build.
  15. Thanks and I'm certain that you're right. It wasn't a deep stain so I was able to scrape some off gently with the back of an #11 blade, but I'm not doing anything further to ensure that I don't make things worse in an attempt to make them better. Thanks OC, appreciate it!
  16. I ended up buying the hinge PE set by Mathos Models (I picked up both A and B sets so I can "always be prepared") and I think they worked out well. Unfortunately the bolts became much harder to see after blackening (I assume this is a shadow thing) and I made a CA glue stain (which thankfully is less noticeable no than when I took these pictures). The well and shot locker goes back into storage while I frame out the lower deck.
  17. Small update - oakheart helped me debug an issue (thank you!) where the PDF creation was taking longer than the timeout value specified and did not actually create the file. I have updated the releases to incorporate the change. Apologies that I still haven't gotten around to getting the releases signed - life can be unexpected and full sometimes.
  18. Thanks - very glad to be making some saw dust again! That's a good idea, I'll take a look. The hinges that are drawn (and I've seen on other builds) are usually T Hinges. I actually did stumble across a sheet of 1/35 photo etch hinges for dioramas by a company called Mathos Models that I may buy and see if they'll work (but then my nemesis "blackening" rears it's head 😂). I'm finding some other things (from railroad modelers as well) that could work if I don't end up fabricating them myself.
  19. After a considerable time away from the shipyards I found some motivation recently and have been plugging away at the ship's well and have almost completed it. I didn't take photographs of the progress, but I built up each of the 4 sides and then glued the sides together as square as I could. What I'm currently struggling with is how to make the hinges. I don't think my metalwork is at a point when I can fabricate them so I'm currently leaning towards using black card and pondering how to give the pin some depth. I have a little bit of time to ponder it though because I realized I build the lower deck beams incorrectly (confused width and depth) and need to remake them (about halfway done with them so I better get on the hinge decision before I start scouring the web for PE sheets that could solve the issue for me).
  20. Been a little, or a lot, out of the loop but wow you are really creating a wonderful work of art here - love it! Really great job!
  21. Can you show a picture? My advice might not be accurate (I’m definitely an amateur here at best regarding milling/etc), but I have added a scrap piece behind/next to parts which has reduced tear out in some situations.
  22. Hi there, sorry to hear about your issues I'll try to take a look into it and see if we can figure out what is happening. I will send you a direct message for more details.
  23. I picked up the NRG usb drive. The menu system didn’t work with my standard pdf viewer but worked with Adobe Reader. When I opened the menu pdf through Adobe Reader and clicked the issues I had to allow it permissions to open the associated files. Hope that helps!
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