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Hello! I am a new member that has never made any type of model before. I’ve ordered my very first wooden model (The Constructo Golden Hind) and I’m wondering what type of glue would be the best to use. I bought some Gorilla Wood Glue, though I’m starting to doubt if I should use it since I haven’t seen many other people on here use it. Any other tips for a newbie would be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks!

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Soup:

What's your name?

Noticed this is your first post.  Welcome to Model Ship World. 

Do a search for "Aliphatic Resins" and one for "wood glue" and you will find several discussions on the subject.

If you are still in a quandary after the search ask away - you will get answers.

Again, welcome.

Kurt

 

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From the product MDS:

Product Identifier

Product Name: Gorilla Wood

GlueSynonyms: Polyvinyl Acetate Polymer product in water

 

So it is just another yellow PVA product.

I would not be surprised to learn that it was actually manufactured by Franklin or Elmer's and just packaged and branded by Gorilla.

 

What you have is essentially identical  to Titebond  or Elmer's  or any other yellow PVA that we do talk about.  It should be excellent to use.

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3 hours ago, kurtvd19 said:

Soup:

What's your name?

Noticed this is your first post.  Welcome to Model Ship World. 

Do a search for "Aliphatic Resins" and one for "wood glue" and you will find several discussions on the subject.

If you are still in a quandary after the search ask away - you will get answers.

Again, welcome.

Kurt

 

My name is Samuel, and thank you!

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2 hours ago, Jaager said:

From the product MDS:

Product Identifier

Product Name: Gorilla Wood

GlueSynonyms: Polyvinyl Acetate Polymer product in water

 

So it is just another yellow PVA product.

I would not be surprised to learn that it was actually manufactured by Franklin or Elmer's and just packaged and branded by Gorilla.

 

What you have is essentially identical  to Titebond  or Elmer's  or any other yellow PVA that we do talk about.  It should be excellent to use.

That’s good to know, thank you!

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As a first time build, I'd advise using plain old Elmer's GlueAll.  Many many models have been built with it, and it's no nearly as difficult to reverse it as compared to a yellow PVA glue.  There may other parts in the model where a different glue might be better (such a cyanoacrylate, i.e. superglue), but start with Elmers.

 

Another point about using glue for building models.  In many places, it would be good to squeeze a dot of glue on a notecard and apply it to the part with a plastic toothpick.  This is especially so with superglues.   A 1cc or 3cc syringe with a blunt needle can be very useful too, about 18 to 20ga needles, and sometimes a 16ga or a 22ga depending on the viscosity of the glue.

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Samuel,

Welcome to MSW.

I am pretty sure most members here use the yellow glue for wood to wood but many of us dilute white glue with water to hold finished knots and seizings as it dries clear. Epoxy for wood to metal and you are covered.  Some members like to use cyanoacrylate but I have never had a good experience with it so cannot say one way or the other if you should give it a try.  

Allan

 

Here is something from Bob Vila who many of us have watched for years doing all sorts of wood projects. 

 

Polyvinyl Acetate Resin Emul­sion Glue. Also called white glue, polyvinyl resin glue is a near relation of that white stuff we used in grade school that was sold under the brand name Elmer’s (and, today, under that and about a hundred other names). It will glue china, paper, and wood.

White glue sets fairly quickly, hardening as the moisture contained evaporates and the glue line becomes transparent. It cures hard in a few hours, though when you are clamping glued pieces together, it’s best to let them set overnight. When buying white glue, be sure that you are buying full-strength glue, since some are watered down for children’s use.

 

Aliphatic Resin Glue. The generic name carpenter’s glue describes the aliphatic resins. Like the white glues, these are sold in squeeze bottles, but aliphatic resin glues are actu­ally much stronger than the polyvinyl resins.

This creamy yellow glue dries very quickly (you can leave the pieces clamped a minimum of an hour, but two hours is preferable, and there’s no harm in waiting still longer). Carpenter’s glue is easy to use, dries a translucent amber color, and is more easily sanded than white glue, which tends to soften due to the heat of the sanding process. Like white glue, however, carpenter’s glue is not for use in damp or exterior applica­tions. It sets more quickly at warm temperatures, but can be used effectively at tempera­tures as low as 45 degrees.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
18 minutes ago, Richard in Missouri said:

My experience with gorilla glue was that it expanded significantly, but their wood glue may behave differently

Two different types of adhesive is Gorilla Glue  and Gorilla Wood Glue.

 

Gorilla Wood is just another brand of yellow carpenters PVA.

 

Gorilla Glue  is a brand of polyurethane glue.   Like CA it is water activated.  But unlike CA, exposure to water causes it to triple its volume.  I guess in applications where having a waterproof bond is important and the joinery is so Jack leg that a joint filling glue is a good thing, this is a useful material.  For a ship model, the joinery should be so tight that any expanding glue would be a disaster.

 

I would imagine that the parent Corporation for Gorilla now wishes that the marketing department had done a better job in  naming their first product.  With no type of glue differentiation in its name, there is now confusion with other products in their line.

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