Fair American by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 Scale

[aliluke]

Very nice work on the rigging Ken. You are on the home straight now.

[KenW]

I finished my first furled sail.  I started with the main top gallant yard, since it seemed to be the easiest.  I will, however, install the completed yards in the order used in the Syren documentation.  I used Amati sail cloth. 

After doing some research, I followed the procedure that ‘flyer’ describes in this HMS Pegasus build log (entry # 307, 310, 315 and 316).  I feel I didn’t need the Stop Fraying product since Aleene’s Tacky Glue, which I used to glue the hems, prevented fraying.  Also, since Peterseen’s book and the Syren documentation didn’t show buntlines on the top gallant yards, I left them off.

The completed top gallant sail:

And the sail bound and furled on the yard:

 

[SawdustDave]

Looks great Ken. I love the look of furled sails on a ship. Nice work.

[victorpapa]

I finished my first furled sail.  I started with the main top gallant yard, since it seemed to be the easiest.  I will, however, install the completed yards in the order used in the Syren documentation.  I used Amati sail cloth. 

After doing some research, I followed the procedure that ‘flyer’ describes in this HMS Pegasus build log (entry # 307, 310, 315 and 316).  I feel I didn’t need the Stop Fraying product since Aleene’s Tacky Glue, which I used to glue the hems, prevented fraying.  Also, since Peterseen’s book and the Syren documentation didn’t show buntlines on the top gallant yards, I left them off.

The completed top gallant sail:

a2014_09_27_01a.jpg

And the sail bound and furled on the yard:

a2014_09_27_02a.jpg

Looks great Ken. I like the clips you used to stabilize the yard,where did you purchase them? I am still working on cannons so still a long way from rigging. Your and others posts are a real help, thanks.

Vince.

[KenW]

Thanks Dave and Vince and the 'likes'.

The clips came from Radio Shack and are called, 'Micro 1-1/8" Smooth Clips'.  I got them on line since my local store didn't have them in stock.

Cheers.

[victorpapa]

Thanks Dave and Vince and the 'likes'.

The clips came from Radio Shack and are called, 'Micro 1-1/8" Smooth Clips'.  I got them on line since my local store didn't have them in stock.

Cheers.

Thanks Ken,

I used Elmer's white glue (thinned) to paint on the edges of the sail cloth for the Bounty's launch. I cut the cloth over sized and painted the glue around the edges then double folded to hide the frayed edge and sowed on a machine. After finished I washed the sail to remove glue and re-stretch to smooth.

Also created seams within the sail by same process gluing and folding strips of cloth to create <1/8 inch false seams that were sown to the sail. FA is smaller scale so that process may not be applicable, and the launch sails were deployed slightly less than full size. Also used flat lacquer to spray on the sail that was taped over a 1 gallon jug to form its curved shape.

[rdondorf1]

You might want to try purchasing paint pens to do the scroll work on the transom.  Just google "paint pens" and you'll see a whole variety of manufacturers.  You can get one in gold and another in black and try doing the scroll work that way.  It would be difficult to do that kind of detail with a paint brush.  If you see a picture of the transom on the actual model in Annapolis (I think Chuck took some photos of her and they're on this site) you'll see that it was just painted on - not actual wooden scroll work.  Paint pens are great for use when you need really precise control over what your detailing - give it a try.

 

Rob D.

Valley Stream, NY

[KenW]

Thanks Vince and Rob D.

Vince:  Now that I look at the photo, I realize that the Radio Shack clamps are not what you were asking about.  While I like the RS clamps, the clamps in the photo with the furled sail is part of a 'third hand' tool that I got from Model Expo.  Also, like you say, at my smaller scale, and with just showing furled sails, I don't think I need to use the process you describe.  The sail probably look good, though.  Do you have a build log?

And Rob D.:  I have scroll work on the transom.  I made a scan from the plan sheets and used my PC to size it properly and glued the paper onto the ship.  I even have scroll work on the bow - which I drew and then again used the PC to get the colors and size and then glued it into the boat.

Cheers.

[KenW]

The main topsail yard is constructed and the sail furled.  There are more lines to keep track of – buntlines in addition to sheets and clue lines.  I also added stud sail booms which are not glued in place yet.  I used paper for the iron bands and they are attached to the boom with 28 gauge wire.  So the booms will be attached to the yard by the wire.  I realized that I made a mistake with the top gallant yards in that the clue line must pull the sail clue up behind the sail, not in front; so I fixed both top gallants.

 

Looking ahead, I am very confused about how to tie the main (spanker) sheet to a cleat attached to a block.  I have looked at both Lees’ and Peterseen’s book, but neither shows how to do that.  The FA documentation is no help either. If someone knows, I wish they would explain it to me.  I have plenty of time to figure it out, however.

[EdatWycliffe]

That's great work, Ken. I'm using your build and Bob's as my principal references. I'm going slowly--finished bowsprit and lower fore mast and am now hanging blocks under the lower main mast top. I really like the way that your furled sails look and I'm hanging enough blocks so that I can attempt to emulate your work. FA is just my second ship so progress is not fast. I'm learning the basics as I go. Pictures will follow soon. Thanks again for your lead on this build. Ed

[KenW]

Thanks Ed.  The down side with furled sails is they cover up a lot of the work on the yards - blocks, etc.  Also, the FA documentation is not entirely helpful.  I'm relying on Peterseen's book a lot, but sometimes it feels like guess work as to where all the lines are attached.  I'll have to wait and see what the final product looks like. 

Fair American is my second ship as well.  So good luck and let me know how you're progressing.

Cheers.

[KenW]

I completed the fore topsail yard and the spritsail yard.  I thought I would show them without the sails.  You can get a better look at the blocks and lines this way.  The fore topsail yard is, I believe, pretty standard.  I followed Peterseen’s book.  You can see the buntline, clue and sheet blocks as well as the sling/halliard and the parrels.  The hanging line is for the Flemish horse, which will be completed when the braces and lifts are attached.

 

The spritsail has only the block for the clue line.  The sheet goes directly to its tying off point and the buntline goes through a thimble seized to the fore stay’s collar.  The sling/halliard and one end of the truss are also attached.  The FA plans don’t show tying off points for the sheet, buntlines and halliard, so I will have to use Peterseen and my best guess.  I will probably attach the sheet to the same pin as the clue line, and the halliard to the starboard knightshead (a.la. rafine).   I’m still thinking about the buntlines.  Peterseen’s ship has more belaying pins and bits than the FA.  Advice/comments are welcome.

 

Edited October 12, 2014 by KenW

[EdatWycliffe]

Hi Ken, I'm watching your build with admiration. My progress is slow, but sure. I'm now making the top gallant trestle trees and cross trees and have some questions if you'd be kind enough to help with. 1. What size strip wood did you use? (Lauck Street suggests 1/16 square for the trestle trees and 1/8 x 1/32 for cross trees, but that has been hard to manipulate well.) 2. Did you attach bees at the top of either top gallant mast? 3. It looks like you hung four blocks from the trees-- which trees did you hang them from and what was the method you used to attach them? As usual, thanks much for your help. Ed.

[KenW]

Hey Ed:  I will try to answer your questions; but keep in mind that I've never read the Lauck Street instructions, nor do I use Bob Hunt's practicum.  My main source for rigging, in addition to the plans and the Syren documentation, is Peterseen's book.  (And I use some guess work.)

1.  I used the plans to determine the size of the wood strips.  I ended up using 1/16 x 1/8 for both the trestle trees and cross trees.  However, the cross tress ended up being 1/16 x 1/16 after whittling and sanding since they are angled aft, as per the plans.

2.  The only bees I know about are those on the bowsprit used for the fore top stay and preventer stay.  The very top of the top gallant masts have a thin slice of 1/8 dowel, cut as thin as I could by hand.  It is pinned and glued to the mast.  I didn't put holes in it since I don't plan on having a flag or banner on the masts.

3.  As for the blocks up there:  There are two 1/8 inch blocks attached to the end of the trestle trees for top gallant braces.  There were seized with black line to eye bolts inserted into holes in the trestles.  There are two 1/8 inch blocks seized to the middle cross trees for topsail bunt lines.  And there are also two blocks seized between the first two shrouds for top sail yard lifts.

I hope I'm being of some help to you. 

Good luck on your build.

[EdatWycliffe]

Hi Ken. I'm making the yards for FA and I need some help. Sheet 2 of the plans don't show any stuns'l booms. Questions: (1) Looking at Syren, I'd guess that only the lower yards and the topsail yards had stuns'l booms. Is that right? (2) did you create the boom irons using 1/8 brass tubing? (3) What size dowel did you use for the stuns'l booms? (4) are the stuns'l booms attached to the fore section of the yards or directly above the yards? (5) Will you pin the yards to the masts and, in addition, use parrel beads to secure the topsail yards? Thanks very much for any help you can give. Ed

[EdatWycliffe]

Ken, thanks very much for your answers in post 344. They were very helpful. Ed

[KenW]

Wow - Let's see if I can answer all of that.

I looked at several sources, including the Syren doc., and decided there were no stund'l booms on the upper most mast.  So for the FA, it is only lower and topsail yards.  I didn't use brass tubing - I used black paper for the irons and the SBs are actually held to the mast by the two wires (they are 28 gauge).  The topsail SBs are from cocktail toothpicks and the lower ones are 1/8 bamboo skewers (made thinner a bit).  They are placed, not above the yards, but at a 45 degree angle forward. 

When I attach the yards, I will follow the order in the Syren documentation.  I still have to make the gaff.  I plan on using pins; but not until all the blocks, lines and sails are attached.  I want anything that can possibly be done off the model to be done first.  I do have parrel beads for the yards (but not for the sprit sail yard or the boom).  The parrel setup is as shown in the plans. 

Hope this helps.  Keep in mind that some of my decisions are based on what I think is correct.

Cheers.

[EdatWycliffe]

Thanks much, Ken. This is very helpful. I very much appreciate the time you spend answering questions. I'm going to start on the yards tomorrow. Once they are completed off the model, I'll start the standing rigging as Bob suggests in his log. I really can't imaging a more enjoyable hobby.

[KenW]

The gaff, boom and spanker sail are finally done.  This sail was the hardest for me to furl.  The problem was with the ‘bend’ at the angle formed where the gaff meets the mast.  Also, the weight of the sail cloth didn’t help.  I finally managed to get something that looks O.K.  I used brail lines and their block pairs.  Have to thank the Lees, Antscherl and Peterseen books for their explanations and illustrations for guidance.  All are now mounted on the ship.  But I definitely need a better sail cloth if I’m going to add sails to my next build.  I have ordered cloth from various sites and the Amati cloth is the best of them, but I need better.

 

Edited November 12, 2014 by KenW

[EdatWycliffe]

Ken, the build looks absolutely great. The furling looks especially good! Love to watch your log.

[rafine]

You're doing a fantastic job Ken.

 

Bob

[aliluke]

Agree with the above - fantastic work and you're nearly there. So...what's in the pipeline?

[gerty]

Beautiful work ! - and the sail looks great - nice job.

[KenW]

Thanks Ed, Bob, Alistair and gerty.  Also thanks for all the 'likes'.

Following the Syren doc., my next move is for the Jib and Fore Topsail Stay.  I won't be doing the other stay sails due to the lack of belaying points.

Cheers.

Edited November 13, 2014 by KenW

[dgbot]

Looking good Ken,  nice and neat, you really went all out this time.

David B

Edited November 13, 2014 by dgbot

[victorpapa]

Ken, 

 

Ditto: fantastic work,

[KenW]

Thanks David and Victor.

Cheers.

[KenW]

The next sails to be installed are the jib and the fore topmast staysail.  I used Antscherl to determine the actual size of the sails and then trimmed them down keeping their triangle shape.  However, I didn’t reduce the foot of either sail.  Each foot is somewhat long, and I wanted that to show.  I also decided to install the rigging for the main topmast staysail and the main topgallant staysail.  I noticed that the lines are tied off to the gallows so there won't be a problem.  The metal clips you see are for their downhauls and halyards since I won’t install the gallows until all the lines are attached to the lower mast cleats.  Both main staysail's rigging was done as per the Syren documentation.

 

Edited November 22, 2014 by KenW

[dgbot]

Looking good Ken.  I have always liked seeing the sails furled properly.  Most individuals will put them on and hide the work they did.

David B

[KenW]

After a Thanksgiving that couldn’t be beat, it’s back to the shipyard.  The main lower yard was installed and most of the rigging tied off.  Since the lines that attach to the main mast cleats are now in place, the main gallows are installed and the staysail halyards are tied off.  The brace pendants are attached but I will not be showing the tackles as the FA plans don’t have places to tie them off to.  As per the Syren documentation, the buntlines/leech lines are not glued in place, just wrapped around their shroud cleats. 

Cheers