Fair American by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 Scale

[rafine]

Beautiful work Ken.

 

Bob

[EdatWycliffe]

Very nice work, Ken.

 

Appreciate the advice from you and Bob regarding the yard tackle pendants. Actually I haven't even started the standing rigging. I thought I would construct all of the spars first. In doing so, I wanted to rig the YAs, etc as much as possible while they were off the the ship. That plunged me directly into how I would approach the running rigging. (It's a real game of dominoes.) I find the running rigging puzzle to be fascinating and frustrating, but your log, Bob's log, the Syren docs and Petersson's and Lee's books are very helpful. I'm stil finishing the spars, but at the same time I'm trying to figure out the slings, trusses and pendants. I'm sure I'll have questions. The only thing I think I've figured out is that the FA does not have jeers. After I've completed the spars, I'll attatch and rig the bowsprit and start the standing rigging on the masts. Lots to do.

 

Ship building is truly a wonderful hobby. Ed

[EdatWycliffe]

Ken, I wonder if the following is a solution to the Yard Tackle Pendant issue: seize a small double block at the front of the channels (P&S); at the end of the pendant is a double block-- create a tackle between that double block and the double block on the channels; and use the first belaying pin on the fore and aft channels (for the main and fore lower YAs P&S) to establish a purchase for the tackles. See reference #s 23 and 49 on the rigging plan.

[KenW]

I'm still not going to rig the tackles.  Because I am installing bunt lines and leech lines, I don't have any empty belaying pins.

I guess my captain has the tackles stowed below.

Cheers.

[EdatWycliffe]

Understand. I probably will not attempt bunt and leech lines at this stage of my experience. BTW, you're lucky. I have an admiral telling me where to stow things. Ed

[KenW]

I finished installing the fore lower yard.  It was pretty much the same as the main lower yard and, as usually happens; the second one was easier than the first.   In fact, there is not really much need for another build entry, but it gives me a chance to post another photo (from a different angle).

 

Edited December 4, 2014 by KenW

[augie]

And it gives us another opportunity to enjoy your work.

[GuntherMT]

Looking at your ship coming along makes me want to start working on mine, but I haven't even started the second planking on the AVS yet!

 

Ah, for more room to set up multiple projects so that I could do another while waiting on coats of paint to dry.  Soon...

[KenW]

Thanks Augie and Brian.  I just modified the photos - I didn't like the colors.  Better now.

Thanks for the comments.

Cheers.

[wq3296]

Greetings Ken,

 

She looks very nice. The rigging can be tedious, but it looks like you are on the bell lap now. I just completed the planking on my FA after taking the summer off. Looking forward to moving on now that the modeling season is upon us. Good work.

 

wq3296

[EdatWycliffe]

Beautiful work, Ken.

[EdatWycliffe]

 

Ken, there are 4 blocks centered under the main and fore lower yards. After reading Petersson's and Lee's treatises, I've concluded that the outer two blocks are for clew lines and the inner two blocks are for sheets. (1) Is that correct? (2) If I do not attempt to furl sails, where do I tie off the end of the clew line that would normally attach to the clew of the sail? Petersson at p.247 is a bit confusing. (3) Similarly, if I add blocks for the bunt lines and leech lines, where do I tie off the end of the bunt and leech lines that would normally attach to the sail? Thanks much! Ed

[KenW]

Hey Ed:  Oh boy, this is not easy to describe - and I'm assuming I have it right, which I may not.

 

Clue line:  The clue lines start by seizing a line around the yard on both starboard and port sides. They then go down to a block in each clue of the sail and up the a clue block seized to the yard near where each line started.  If you have sails, they are used to pull the clues of the sail up to the yard to assist in furling the sail.  The lines then tie off, in the FA case, on a belaying pin.

Sheets:  The sheet blocks seized to the yard is for the sheet of the yard above the yard where the block is located.  That is, the sheet blocks on the lower yard are for the topmast sail's sheets. 

Bunt line/leech lines:  These lines attach to the sail and, again, are used to haul up the sail to assist in furling.  On the lower yards, there are one leech line and two bunt lines on each side of the yard.  They go up through blocks seized to the front of the yard, and then to the blocks seized in under the main top and then down to a shroud cleat.

 

On a model without furled sails, the Syren documentation uses 'stopped' lines for the bunt and leech lines.  I assume that means using a line with a figure eight knot in one end and the other end goes through the blocks under the top and down to the shroud.

If you look at Bob's FA build log, the Syren Documentation, and Peterseen's book, you will see a group of blocks kind of hanging from each side of the yard.  That is the clue, sheet and tack blocks in the case of the main lower yard.  On the fore lower yard, there are two blocks and a line with a stopper knot.  That is the clue and sheet blocks; and the stopper line is the tack line.  The clue line still attaches to the yard, runs through the block and back up the the clue block attached to the yard.  The sheets and tacks run from the group of blocks to their tying off points.

 

I know I have probably confused you completely.  I hope that someone who reads this can explain it better.

 

Good luck.

[EdatWycliffe]

Thanks, Ken. You are kind to take the time to answer in such detail. I'll need to think through your description while looking at the sources you mention. Much appreciated. Ed

[KenW]

I found that one thing about adding furled sails to the FA model, it really helped to learn the names and purposes of the lines used to furl the sails.  I don't know if the effort really helped the look of the model; but adding furled sails definitely was worth it from a learning perspective.

Cheers.

[EdatWycliffe]

Ken, I studied all sources. A general Internet search also was helpful. Bottom line: Your explanation is excellent. One lingering question--where did you (or will you) tie off your sheets and tacks for the lower yards? Thanks as always. Ed

[KenW]

Ed:  I knew that my explanation was complicated.  I'm glad you waded through it.

The sheets and tacks are going to be tied off as per the FA plans with slight modifications based on Peterseen.  One thing I noticed is that the plans have two places to tie off the lower main braces and no where to tie off the lower main sheets.  So since the main braces go forward and the main sheets go aft, the sheets should be tied off at the cavil near the stern.  Both the sheets and the tacks will start at an eye bolt in the hull and tie off as per the (modified) plans.   (See Peterseen)

[KenW]

Both topsail yards have been mounted on the ship.  Keeping track of all the lines can be daunting at times.  I’m not totally convinced that the furled sails add much to the look of the model, but they are a valuable tool which forces me to learn what all these lines are for and what they are called. 

There were two issues that are worth mentioning with the topsail yards:

First, I rigged the topsail lifts differently than the FA rigging plans.  I tied a “span” around the topmast caps as per page 85 of Lees.  The lift line was seized to the “span” and then down to a block at the end of the yard.  From there the line went up through the block seized between the topmast shrouds above the futtock staves and then down to one of the cleats tied to the topmast shrouds just above the dead eyes.

Secondly, I am continuing to find that when I reduced the distance between the gun ports in order to create more space between the aft guns and the housing front, I didn’t know what I was doing.  That type of change has to be really well thought out.  Because the distance between the gun ports is smaller, the channels are shorter.  And short channels don’t leave enough room for the shroud dead eyes AND all the other lines that have to anchor themselves to the channel.  So, the block that serves as the anchor for the halyard runner had to be attached to an eye bolt drilled into the hull.  It doesn’t look too bad, but it is not close to being historically accurate.

Oh well, on to the top gallant yards.

 

 

  

 

[GuntherMT]

 I’m not totally convinced that the furled sails add much to the look of the model, but they are a valuable tool which forces me to learn what all these lines are for and what they are called. 

 

I'll disagree with you, although it's your model - I think the furled sails were a great addition, and really help to bring her 'alive' compared to bare poles.

 

You continue to do great work, and except for experts and people reading your log, nobody who sees your completed model will have any clue about the eye bolt locations being wrong!

[KenW]

Thanks Brian.

I have been reading your AVS build log and am enjoying your progress.

Cheers.

[dgbot]

On a sailing vessel unless in dock the sails should be on if you wish, furl them.  They add to the flavor and add character as well.

David B

Edited December 11, 2014 by dgbot

[EdatWycliffe]

Ed:  I knew that my explanation was complicated.  I'm glad you waded through it.

The sheets and tacks are going to be tied off as per the FA plans with slight modifications based on Peterseen.  One thing I noticed is that the plans have two places to tie off the lower main braces and no where to tie off the lower main sheets.  So since the main braces go forward and the main sheets go aft, the sheets should be tied off at the cavil near the stern.  Both the sheets and the tacks will start at an eye bolt in the hull and tie off as per the (modified) plans.   (See Peterseen)

Thanks, Ken. I think that I've got it, but I'll never know until I get there! In the meanwhile, I'm now rigging the yards off ship; then I'll start on the standing rigging. I'm sure that I'll need advice as I proceed. Your ship is looking great! Ed

[GaryKap]

Ken and Ed -

Another great source of information on sails and rigging is John Harland's excellent book "Seamanship in the Age of Sail".  A portion of it is available online:

http://books.google.com/books?id=g7Jd_o6_s90C&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false

 

Chapter 2, pages 29-34 talk about sails and the lines needed to control them.  Page 34 has a diagram of the positions of blocks on the yards.  I know this is a bit late for Ken but I hope it will help Ed and others who may be following this build log.

 

And Ken, I can only echo all of the other commenters to say that you are doing a superb job and to thank you for allowing us to look over your shoulder as you work.

 

<<Gary>>

[KenW]

Thanks Gary.  I wish google would allow me to print these pages.  The only reason I haven't bought Harland's book is the price.

Anyway, welcome back and happy modeling.

Cheers.

Edited December 12, 2014 by KenW

[KenW]

The topgallant yards have been mounted and fully rigged, including the braces.  All went without incident.  Again, I used Lees and Peterseen whenever the FA plans were incomplete or unclear.

Next up is to finish the rigging for the topsail (braces) and lower yards (braces, sheets and tacks) as well as mounting the spritsail yard.

 

          

[dvm27]

Beautiful, Ken. Makes me want to build her again. There's something about her lines that is very appealing.

[rafine]

You've done a superb job on her Ken.

 

Bob

[GaryKap]

Hey Ken -

She's lookin' great!!  Any detailed closeup shots of the top mast, fore topmast, and topgallant masts showing the locations of blocks is greatly appreciated.  And yes, I know...obtaining those closeup pictures is not easy. 

 

I am curious though - what are you going to do for a display stand for the finished model?

 

<<Gary>>

[KenW]

Thanks Greg, Bob and Gary and the 'likes'.

Gary:  With all the blocks and now lines under the tops, is getting pretty hard to take a photo showing what is going on up there.

Even if I could get a decent close up, I don't know if it would help.  But I will try with my next posting.

As for the display stand, I'm using the one that either came with the kit or was part of the order with Model Expo.  When completed, the model will go to my son and I expect him to get a display case.

Thanks again.

[EdatWycliffe]

Ken, the ship looks absolutely great. What a wonderful gift to your son. Happy holidays to you and all of our shipmates following your log. Ed