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Byrne's saw for cutting thin brass???


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In theory,  I would use a slitting blade.  Thin sheets of non ferrous metal will probably react poorly to the stress of cutting if it is pushed thru the blade by itself.

I would use thin sheets of model aircraft plywood and double sided tape to make a sandwich. The metal fixed between two sheets of ply.  Cut using one of the more coarse toothed slitting blades, but still a lot of teeth.  

I have no actual experimental data to confirm that this would work.  But, I expect that curling and other adverse problems would be avoided.

A top hold down stick and butt end pusher should resist kickback.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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2 hours ago, Jaager said:

use thin sheets of model aircraft plywood and double sided tape to make a sandwich. The metal fixed between two sheets of ply.  Cut using one of the more coarse toothed slitting blades, but still a lot of teeth.  

Exactly right for thin brass. It doesn't have to be top quality plywood, just solid with no 'voids'. Also works with acrylic sheet.

I have cut .004" (4 thou) brass this way with good results on a saw nowhere as good as a Byrnes. 

It is surprising but the same setup will allow you to make good cuts with a router provided the ply-brass-wood sandwich is rock solid and you have good router bit. You may harm the teeth of the cutter but just use another depth setting next time to bring a different section of the cutting edge into contact with the workpiece.

 

The tricky part, whichever tool has been used, is removing the plywood without distorting the brass. Tip: soak the whole kit and kaboodle in methylated spirits to soften the double sided tape bond. Once finished, throw the plywood away.

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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Apparently the saw will cut "larger" stock as well. Greg Herbert used the saw to help make this tiller.

 

image.png.301bace9f2351e98bcab31b42d117f00.png

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/370-speedwell-by-dvm27-greg-herbert-ketch-rigged-sloop-1752/page/7/?tab=comments#comment-654207

 

Richard

Current Build: Early 19th Century US Revenue Cutter (Artesania Latina "Dallas" - messed about)

Completed Build: Yakatabune - Japanese - Woody Joe mini

Member: Nautical Research Guild & Midwest Model Shipwrights

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