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GLAD TIDINGS 1937 by Jerry Sturdivant - Model Shipways - Scale 1:24 - Pinky Schooner


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In preparation for planking the deck, I decided (after seeing Ms. Olha’s comment), Basswood is rather light colored. So I ordered some Cherry Wood Strips from Model Shipways; then borrowed some strips from my son (he builds ships but isn’t in this group – but I'm working on him), and am trying different stains. I searched the Internet for Olha's Pear and found nothing. (She must have a secret supplier).

 

The order from Model Expo wood screwed up so I’m proceeding with testing anyway. As you can see, I have Basswood Top strip and 3ed strip. The other two are the slightly darker wood from my son.

 

I had good luck with wine, both in drinking and using it for stain. (No not on my shirt). My other model here explains how I used wine to color my sails.

 

I’ve marked “Red Wine Rubbed off”, then Red Wine Soaked. Then some weird stain from Hobby Lobby, mixed with water, then three different wood conditioners and stain from Model Expo. After it dries I’ll paint over portions with 4980 Natural Stain and 4972 Clear Stain and see what I like. I plan on mixing different woods. And if I don’t like the stain, I’ll try just oil (like we do on real ships) like Ms. Ohla did.

 

Then, if Shipway comes through, I’ll add their Cherry Wood.

 

(Yea, I drank the red wine… Don’t waste nothing).

 

 

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It could be quite a colorful deck. I hope it doesn't look like a rainbow....

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  • 2 months later...

Time to start planking. After gathering a bunch of different colors and brands of wood, I selected a balsa for the wider, outside planks.

 

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This is another test stain, but I didn't like it because I'll be sanding and that can change the color.

So here's beginning of planking. Lots of sanding and shaping. But with balsa, it's easy. (Yea, I'm lazy)

 

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So here's the beginning. I'm sanding and shaping to keep the wood close to the cabins. I'll paint them at the last so it won't scrap the white.

 

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Here is a few weeks later. I might have overdone the "different color planks." I didn't want all the same color, but I may have goofed by making the colors so different. (Sigh!). But, I'd have done the same thing if it was full size. I could do some staining, but, well, it is what it is. I was going to oil it like the young lady did, but I have some finish that has a slight stain color. We'll see what happens. 

 

I do one stick at a time, unlike the lady (can't remember her name and am afraid to leave this to find it) who glued it all at once. I'm in no hurry and I can pay more attention to detail (while watching golf on TV).

 

Another error I'm making is my "calking." I sand each piece at a slight bevel, then rub pencil (carbon) on them. Well, on some I've made too big an angle and it makes too big a "calking" line. But, what the heck.  

 

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  • 1 month later...

Looks like I've built myself into another corner. My planks aren't parallel. Look where my finger is pointing and you'll see I didn't sand correctly and it's off just slightly. As I got to the center the error showed up.

 

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So I used some slightly wider planks, like I did around the cabin, and ended them on a rib. Now I'll squeez in a few more planks. I believe this will all be covered by deck equipment (and other errors). 

 

 

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I've planked the deck, (I think I have to do the cockpit yet) and am about to sand. Like I said above, I've made a test strip of decking planks and drilled some test holes as for size and stain coloring. I selected three stains and didn't like the first two on the left. But I like the Tung Oil Finish. I notice that Olha had another liquid to enhance the holes, but it was too expensive for what it did, so the Tung Oil will do.

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The oil was a thin coat and has dried a few days. After I sand the deck I'll soak it in oil and hope it shines.

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Cockpit work. The plans call for 1/8 by 1/32 Basewood. Well, too light and too thin. So off to my kid's house and some prettier lumber. 1/8 by 1/16 just looks better. So I measure and cut 'a little long,' so I can sand to length. I don't get the angles correct because the cockpit isn't rectangle, and my sanding angel device slipped. (*Sigh!*)

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But, close enough. So I sand and I fit and I try and I get them in. The floor of the cockpit is a little warped and I have to push down on the trimming to close the gap. I had previously sanded the bottom so this finishes the bottom. As you can see from this photo.

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I didn't push down hard enough. You might note I've started on the top of the cockpit because my previous photos were upside-down again. (I have to remember to keep the iPhone button on the right side). Neither inverting with the phone or my computer's editor, will invert an upside down photo. Model Ship World knows how you hold you phone.

 

Anyway, on to trimming the top of the cockpit.

 

 

 

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Great work! Looking through your log brought back some very fond memories of building this kit many years ago - one of the most fun kits I think I've encountered. Hope you're enjoying it!

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, I goofed again. When picking the wood to frame the top of the hole, I had to hunt darker wood. When I cut and sanded, I forgot to sand a bevel in replicate caulking. I believe I covered how I cut too much bevel in some and made some spacing too wide. Now I forget to sand the bevel in the cockpit top framing. So I tried cutting with a knife and penciling in some carbon. As you can see, not too good a job, but at least you can see a spacing. The one I have clamped here I remembered. I hope sanding will cure all and cover goofs. 

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  • 3 months later...

I will be starting to build the Glad Tidings Pinky Schooner soon and have been looking for a building log other than that nice Russian lady (she is way out of my league.). I read through some of your log and found it helpful. Your last post was late last year. Are you still working on the schooner?

 

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  • 2 months later...

I took the boat to the garage and used an air can to blow out the holes and the dust between planks. Then I used my air compressor to do a better job.

 

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found a small inexpensive bottle of Starbond,  so I decided to follow the young lady's example and 'express' the holes. So I spread it on.

 

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Now I'll let it dry and do some more sanding. I didn't use the stuff inside the cockpit because sanding there would be difficult.

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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As soon as I get the deck sanded again and oiled, it’s time to mount it so I can work on the deck on up.

 

I bought this board, then noticed it a sign board, not flat on the bottom. I’ll look at other models here and see if I should shop around for another board.

 

I have these brass stands, but they’re all the same size, so I bought a small wood piece to elevate the bow. But I don’t know, looks weird. So I got some wood mounts and I can cut one of them short. Then I have to drill a hole in them for the bolt that bolts the board to the keel.

 

I’ll try widening the gap in the wood ones to fit the keel. Then measure how much to cut off the stern stand. Then decide on another board..

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  • 1 year later...
On 5/17/2022 at 10:21 AM, Jerry Sturdivant said:

IMG_3685.thumb.JPG.84a416c6bcbe2ec2dd59b264a90622cf.JPG

 

As soon as I get the deck sanded again and oiled, it’s time to mount it so I can work on the deck on up.

 

I bought this board, then noticed it a sign board, not flat on the bottom. I’ll look at other models here and see if I should shop around for another board.

 

I have these brass stands, but they’re all the same size, so I bought a small wood piece to elevate the bow. But I don’t know, looks weird. So I got some wood mounts and I can cut one of them short. Then I have to drill a hole in them for the bolt that bolts the board to the keel.

 

I’ll try widening the gap in the wood ones to fit the keel. Then measure how much to cut off the stern stand. Then decide on another board..

It's been 2-years since I've done anything on this because of my illness, but I'll be working on it again soon..

 

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I was just thinking about this kit before seeing this update! Great work - she's looking nice!

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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