hof00 Posted November 5, 2020 Share #1 Posted November 5, 2020 Hi All, Is there a tuorial somewhere that describes Bending/Application of Photo Etch parts? (Ladders/Handrails/Etc/Etc) Any advice would be very much appreciated. Cheers and Regards, Harry. BobG, Ryland Craze, bruce d and 1 other 4 Quote Completed Builds: A/L Bluenose II A/L Mare Nostrum Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark A/L Pen Duick A/L Fulgaro Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck A/L Sanson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolley Roger Posted November 6, 2020 Share #2 Posted November 6, 2020 (edited) There is a US company called the Small Shop that makes a couple of Photo Etch bending tools, mainly aimed at the plastic modelling community, but it should apply to any PE part Not so much a tutorial, but the link have a small video clip explaining how it works https://thesmallshop.com/collections/photo-etch-bending-tools/products/sms003-4-inch-hold-and-fold Application - from my experience, don't use a tweezer, it will launch a PE part into another dimension! I use a toothpick dipped in diluted PVA glue to move the parts around. Normally use CA glue to hold PE part in place. Edited November 6, 2020 by Jolley Roger VTHokiEE, BobG, Michel L. and 3 others 6 Quote Samuel Pepys notes in his diary on 19 July 1667: "the Dutch fleets being in so many places, that Sir W. Batten at table cried, By God,says he, I think the Devil shits Dutchmen." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimdavis Posted February 3, 2022 Share #3 Posted February 3, 2022 What is the best method to 'cut' the parts from a sheet of photo-etching? thibaultron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce d Posted February 4, 2022 Share #4 Posted February 4, 2022 Not everybody will agree, but .... File/grind a chisel point on the edge of a box-cutter blade. Put the fret on a piece of hardened glass or smooth steel and then use the chisel-point to shear the connecting tab. Press straight down, worry it a bit and it will leave a clean edge. I used to cut hundreds of etched pieces at a time (in another life, not part of any hobby) and this was the method that gave the best results time after after time. It works for brass and nickel silver, stainless steel too but keep the chisel sharpened. FYI, if you try wood or a cutting mat instead of a steel/glass support there is every chance of distorting the etched piece. There are other ways and I am sure they will be pointed out, so take your pick 🤐. thibaultron, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted February 4, 2022 Share #5 Posted February 4, 2022 Jim, I deleted your topic where you asked this same question and Bruce directed you here. thibaultron and Canute 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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