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  • 6 months later...
Posted (edited)

 

Lot of work small progress.

Bridge part fell off, many pieces broken especially those made from older resin with 0 elasticity.

All repaired, added communication antennas and radar masts. All cranes in place except those at the funnels. These are fragile need to tighten down with rigging.

 

IMG_20240828_195002.jpg

IMG_20240828_194852.jpg

IMG_20240828_194828.jpg

Edited by mikegr
Posted

Looking very smart. Welcome back.

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

Posted
13 hours ago, Dr PR said:

What resin are you using now. Is it flexible when hardened?

I am using ABS like Anycubic. Its far more forgiving than the standard. Water washable only. 

Sometimes I add 20-25% of this

https://www.resione.com/?srsltid=AfmBOor4fbt1yKBu436_fjSO-zH-xqWDL-jqFQZXMiapGbvLijodaTKF

 

This is even more elastic any gives  smooth plastic feel texture. Its also very quick maybe 1-1.5 sec per layer.

However if you want to print long and thin items like masts, gun barrels most probably these will bend after curing so its not always the best option

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I forgot to make a whole mast. Its thicker that the others and has has a big pulley. 

Screenshot_2024_1113_184326.thumb.png.85f52546c35b78e081ce8d876a38e849.png

Lower tip and pulley were made with 3d parts. The base and the main part were made of plastic and wood respectively.I even managed to make it movable up and down. Not that its important, I just wanted to do it.

IMG_20241109_134754.thumb.jpg.aab7657848a5378b3c3ed0f696cdb261.jpg

IMG_20241109_184945.thumb.jpg.d73601b115ecf89429f2c5811d377d2b.jpg

After assembling the parts it was time to put it in place. I decided to try my luck in rigging. What a painful experience it was. Trying to give the right tension was quite difficult. A big respect to those who deal with rigging at wooden sail ships. Maybe this 1/160 scale make things more tricky, 

IMG_20241113_182448.thumb.jpg.fc2fb793c938ad71e4d4ac72ab036761.jpgIMG_20241113_182536.thumb.jpg.3c50d34725431db7db393ca639415e3c.jpgIMG_20241113_182543.thumb.jpg.8ddd00768441ac0d082549583222044a.jpg

Note the wire crossing the deck and over the crane. This is what I call, faulse rigging. This does not exist on plans. Its purpose its to give the right tension to wires from pulley to the main mast. If brass had been used instead of wood, the increased weight may have done this job. A lesson for the future. However its not that unreal as many other cranes are tighten in this way according to my reference pictures. But enough rigging for now.

Last progress was in bow section, only anchor and chain is to be added.

IMG_20241113_182554.thumb.jpg.3edaf3f087e2e44159c14f703006d6c6.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/13/2024 at 5:05 PM, mikegr said:

This is what I call, faulse rigging. This does not exist on plans.

I can't imagine that the crane hook was left to dangle when underway. Another option would be to secure the hook to the deck and then tension the cables.

 

Everything looks very good.

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

Posted

That is indeed how it's done Keith. Either connected to a pad-eye on deck or part of the hatch structure, you'd have a sling (often steel wire) connecting the hook to deck and then tensioned to avoid the hook swinging around. 

Fixing the boom itself was sometimes done the way it is done on the model, so it doesn't look off to me. 

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