US Brig Syren by Desalgu - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64

[desalgu]

On to the standing rigging in Chapter 18.  The first picture shows some deadeyes and links for the chains.  This looks more difficult than it is.  The manual has great instructions on how to make these.  Lots of tiny parts!

 

The next two pictures show the deadeyes in the channels with the chains dangling.  The shrouds and deadeyes are done next.  I used a little wire jig or claw to hold the upper deadeye in place with the proper spacing to the lower deadeye, and then I could wrap the shroud around it and seize it.  Once I had the shroud and deadeye at the correct length, I could tie the deadeyes together as shown in manual.

 

I have a problem of going too fast, so I didn't get the deadeyes all in the proper orientation in the chains and shrouds.  So when I used the tan rigging to tie them together, it didn't come out as neat as I wanted.  Kind of picking nits, but that what I do.  On the other hand, I wasn't unhappy enough or motivated to redo it.

 

The last picture shows the futtock shrouds going up to the mast platform.  I see no reason why the platform deadeyes couldn't have wire strops around them like the channel deadeyes.  It would have been easier to make them consistent than using thread, at least for me.

 

[desalgu]

Continuing with standing rigging, the first couple of pictures shows the main stay.  At the top, it is secured with a rope eye and a mouse stopper.  At the lower end the "hearts" are used to secure to the deck.

 

The next pictures show ratlines on the lower shrouds.  I used overhand knots on the two end shrouds, and loops around the inner shrouds.  I discovered I'm terrible at making knots, especially with rigging thread, so resorted to overhand knots in most cases.  

 

Apologize for the sideways pictures.  I'm new at this and don't understand why some photos import fine, and some come in sideways or occasionally upside down.  It seems most of my vertically oriented photos are imported sideways.  But you can still see what was done.

 

[desalgu]

Moving upward are the topmast pendants, shrouds, and ratlines.  These are all done in a similar manner to the lower shrouds and ratlines.  The last picture shows the topmast stays.  It also shows the "sister" blocks embedded in the shrouds.

[desalgu]

I'm including some detailed photos of the bowsprit rigging at this stage of construction.  I simplified attachment of the lines coming into the eye bolts on the hull.  These were all supposed to be eyes with lashing to the eye bolts, but I was unable to do this.  I made an effort, but it's very tight quarters, and have no idea how you are supposed to feed lashing thread thru tiny eye bolts and thread eyes with little room to get in there.  So I opted to tie the black rigging lines directly to the eye bolts without the lashings. 

 

After doing a lot more rigging, and learning more how to do it, I might be able to do lashings.  But I'm certainly not going to redo anything.  Hopefully I can remember some of this when I get around to another build.

 

The last picture shows the block and tackle on the topgallant backstay.  It was the first block and tackle I rigged and belayed to a pin along the bulwarks.  Also this was first rope coil.  I decided to do figure-8 style rope coils, which I saw in the book "model ships simplified".  I don't know if these are better or worse than loop rope coils.  I made a very simple jig or tool to make the coils.  The first ones are easy to slip over the belay pins, but this got a lot more difficult as more lines come down to the pins.

 

I know I did not loop the threads around the pin the "correct" way, but I was struggling just to tie it down any way possible.  Besides the way you tie to the belay pin is hidden by the rope coil, so my thinking was it didn't matter.  Perhaps it did, because if I'd done it correctly, perhaps the lines would not have interfered with the rope coils as much.  I still have a lot to learn.

 

My rope coils came out stiff from the glue used to form them.  I had to put a 90 deg bend in them to fit over the belay pin and hang down.  This worked, but it was difficult to make them consistent.  Some are longer or shorter than others, and some of the tan thread is lighter or darker depending on the amount of glue used.

[desalgu]

Here are more pictures of the bow rigging showing some of my comments in the previous post.  

 

The horses are a bit tricky to set up, but went ok.  I had more trouble fitting the small piece of netting in there.  It's flexible, so didn't want to stay straight.  I managed, but it took several tries.

[desalgu]

The boom and gaff were added to the main mast next.  I believe the pictures are self explanatory.  

[desalgu]

I only have a couple of pictures of the main staysail downhaul and halliard, so I'll include them here.

[desalgu]

The yards were constructed next (Chapter 19).  They are fairly straightforward.  I glued the 1/32 basswood for the sling cleats and the yard arm cleats on the yard and then trimmed or "carved" them to shape.  This worked well, and I think is the only way to do it.  

 

As mentioned previously, the wire foot ropes were fairly easy to do.  In my opinion they look much better than thread ones.  Plus they have the benefit that if you accidentally bend them later on, you can easily bend them back to shape.  I use a piece of brass tubing or something similar to shape them.

 

It's important to make sure you add all the blocks on the yards before you mount the yards to the mast.  Before mounting yards I had to add the ties, which are not shown in the photo.

 

I glued pins to the lower yards and topmast yards for mounting to the mast.  I did not put pins in the upper yards, because the manual recommended that you only lash them to the mast.  I thought about pinning the upper yards also,  because I think it could be done if you use something like 30 gauge wire.  

[desalgu]

It's time to start adding the yards to the masts.  The two lower yards are done first, main mast first, then foremast.  The other yards are added working upward.  All of them are rigged somewhat in a similar manner.  The lower yards and topmast yard have buntlines, but the others do not.  I think all the other lines are very similar.

 

At this stage, I found it difficult to take photos of the rigging.  I'll attach the ones I think are best.  The first two show the lower yard lifts.  These go thru blocks on the end of the yard (not shown), to blocks above the platform, and down to a block and tackle on the channels.  The first picture shows the blocks above the platform, and the 2nd one the block and tackle on the channels.  It's the block with the hook in between the deadeyes.

 

The 3rd photo shows the two lower yards and rigging on the ship.

 

[desalgu]

The topsail yards are mounted next.  Rigging is similar.  One difference is the jeer tie.  It uses an unusual 3-block structure shown in the first photo.  The jeer tie goes thru the center larger block, and the buntlines go thru the smaller blocks on top of it.

 

The 2nd photo shows the topsail yard rigging.  The lifts run from the end of the yard arm up to the mast, and the clews and sheets are between the lower yard and topsail yard.  This photo also shows the lower yard buntlines.

 

The 3rd photo shows the ship as of mid-Jan 2021 with lower and topsail yards complete.  Adding yards really improves the look.

[desalgu]

Here are some additional photos of the topsail yard and rigging.  The first shows the parrels around the mast.  The topsail yards are the only ones that have parrels.  I had to use one more bead and spacer than what the manual says.  The kit provides plenty of extras.

 

The 2nd photo shows the topsail clews and sheets which are between the lower and topsail yards.  It also has another view of the 3-blocks used for the topsail jeer tie and buntlines.

 

The 3rd photo shows the topsail braces extending from the ends of the yard.

[desalgu]

The upper yards are mounted with lashings and rigged in a similar manner.  It gets a little simpler when you get to the royal yard.    Here are some general comments about rigging the yards and how it went for me.

 

The worst place to attach rigging along the deck are the eyebolts around the base of the mast.  There are lines that come down and are lashed to these eyebolts.  The fife rails and other stuff are in the way, so there is little access to them.  It took a lot of tries to get lashing thru those eyebolts.  It helps to stiffen the end of the rigging thread, but there's not much room to get tweezers or anything to maneuver the thread thru the holes.  

 

Another hard part for me was routing the rigging threads from the upper yards down to the deck.  There are a lot of lines going to the deck, and invariably some are crossed.  Sometimes I tried half dozen times to get it dropped down cleanly, and thought I had it right, and belayed it.  And then later I saw that I had a couple of lines crossing.  They are hard to see when they cross but don't pull on each other.  When you put tension on the new line, if it crosses another and moves it, it's easy to see.  But sometimes it doesn't move anything and you think it's ok, only to find out after it's too late, that it crossed something. My eyes aren't that great anymore, so it's hard for me to see this kind of stuff.

 

As you add more rigging, it gets more difficult to belay on the deck.  As more lines are added, and more belay pins are used, it gets crowded.  I was usually able to belay without too much trouble, but then adding the rope coil was often a struggle, especially to keep them somewhat aligned.  There was no room and other lines interfered.  I did the best I could, but am not that happy with results.  It seems like the lines coming down to the belay racks need something to keep them more organized.  It's no wonder guys had a hard time "learning the ropes".  I would have failed miserably!

 

I got a bit confused about the belay pin numbers.  I thought I saw a couple that were incorrect in the manual, or I should say, the plans and manual didn't agree.  But I've never been sure about it, because it's hard to locate some of the belay pins on the plans.  I know I did some of them wrong, because all of a sudden I'd need a pin that I'd already used.  I usually found one close and used it, but once you get off, you are constantly adjusting.  Sooner or later you can work yourself into a corner.

 

The belay pins at the bottom of the masts get crowded.  I believe there were some belay pins that had two lines going to them.  At least that's what I ended up with.  

[desalgu]

Here are a couple of photos of my model as of early Feb 2021.  I have all the yards and rigging complete except for the lower mast braces and sheets/clews/tack lines.

 

I'm starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel.

[desalgu]

Finished the braces and sheets/clew/tack lines.  The sheets, clew, and tack lines attach to a triple block "structure" for lack of a better term.  First photo shows my triple blocks.  Of course they don't look as good as those shown in the manual, but I've gotten used to that.

 

The next two photos shows them rigged.  They are suspended below the lower yards.  I installed them by rigging all the lines thru the blocks without glueing anything.  

 

I used clothespins to provide a little tension on the loose end of the lines to make it easier to rig.  I probably failed to mention this before, but using the small and regular sized clothespins to provide tension or weight on the loose ends of rigging is very useful and makes the task much easier.  If you want a little more tension, add another clothespin.  If you need less tension, use the little clothespins (I use these a lot).  You have to have enough excess rigging line so you can attach clothespins, but it's worth it.

 

Once all the lines are rigged thru the blocks, you can play with the tension on each one to move the triple blocks to just below the yard and a little in front of it (or wherever you want them).  I used the photo in the manual and tried to position mine similarly.  Then I glued the clew line first - the one that goes down to the base of the mast.  With one line stabilized, it's easier to make final adjustments on the other two and glue those.

 

 

[desalgu]

Got the bowsprit yard finished today and mounted.  It was made in a similar manner to the other yards.  It took a couple of days to do foot ropes and attach eyebolts and blocks (I'm not too speedy).  It is lashed to the bowsprit, and I also pinned it to strengthen the joint.  

 

I aligned the yard from the front by making it parallel to the other yards.  I had to get down low to look up so I could see it's aligned.  I got it perpendicular to the bowsprit (viewed from above) by aligning it to a handheld right triangle.  It was all done by eyeball.  I didn't try to measure anything, but it looks right.  It was a bit awkward to do this at this stage of construction with lots of rigging in the way.

[Overworked724]

Beautiful work!!   I wish you had been posting from the beginning!!!  I can’t imagine what methods and techniques are not captured in you log since you started. 
 

I’ll be rereading your log for info and inspiration!!!  Nicely done. 👍🏽

[StebbinsTim]

I truly enjoyed your posts.   Very interesting read.  I recently purchased this kit and will be using your post as reference.   I like your idea of wood hull versus copper.   You mentioned many times that you wished you had smaller three than .008.    Any recommendations as to what size would work better.    Any other recommendations on what to use in terms of different material versus what is provided in the kit?

[desalgu]

There's another Syren build log that used blocks and rigging rope from "Syren Ship Model Company", but web site now says they are no longer going to sell rigging thread because they can't keep up with demand.  I believe this is Chuck's company and I completely understand the huge demand and not being able to keep up.  I'm not sure where to turn.  Model Shipways sells other brands of rigging thread, so maybe they are of better quality than what was in the kit.  I may order a little just to find out.  I started with what was in the kit not knowing there were other better choices.  It's not terrible, but I can see from what others have done, it does make a difference.  

 

I think a thread half the size of the 0.008, so about 0.004, would work better and only used for seizing ropes.   Of course, my opinion is probably skewed because I had a hard time seizing ropes and ended up using one or two overhand knots.  I never was able to wrap the seizing thread around the main thread, even when the main rope was a larger size.  It was all too small.  The knots I used don't look too bad, because I would trim off as much as I could with xacto.  In some cases I just used one knot and then glued (ca) about quarter inch of the loose thread to the main thread and trimmed it, so ropes looked doubled up.  A little touchup black paint and it looked pretty good, at least this scale. 

 

I struggled with the rigging.  I built one other boat, but it was a long time ago, and it was not near as detailed as this one.  Most of the lines are seized, but I often resorted to overhand knot around mast or yard.  Based on my skills, I had to make it simpler.  I'm rambling and these comments are a bit unorganized, but hope it helps a little.

[desalgu]

Did the jib guys today.  I used a wire spacer to hold the black guy rope the proper space from the cathead eyebolt, so I could it's length correct.  It also ensured the ropes would all be lashed the same distance from the cathead.  It's same technique used to get the shroud deadeyes to line up (of course I still missed on one of those).  

 

The lashings on the guys are straightforward because they are exposed and you can easily reach them.  You can see lashings to cathead on right side of photo.

[desalgu]

Finished the bowsprit rigging.  I can see why you put the bowsprit yard on last, because it seemed like it kept hitting or touching it my fingers or hand all the time.  No real problems other than I discovered a rigging line from a long time ago that got hung on a block instead of going straight down the bowsprit.  Not easy to see, so no one will know but me (and you all now).   Here's some pictures.

[desalgu]

I'm on the last chapter, anchors and flags.  I'm trying to follow the manual.  The anchors are pretty straightforward.  I used scrap 1/8" basswood for the cross pieces - cutting, filing, and sanding to shape.  I fought the 1/16" black sticky tape and ended up gluing it on.  The sticky part doesn't work as it's gotten old.  I remember it didn't stick that well when I used it on masts.  I tried wrapping or serving the iron rings, but thread seemed too thick.  I left it on, because it will hardly show when the anchor cable is attached.  

 

The anchor buoys were carved from scrap 3/8" square balsa pieces.  I used xacto for rough shaping and sanded a lot by hand.  Everything went ok until I tried to rig them.  I've been fighting that, and have ended up gluing each knot and thread to the buoy, which is a slow process.  But I'm getting there.

 

 

Edited February 17, 2021 by desalgu

[desalgu]

I really struggled with anchor buoys.  Almost decided to start over, but not sure I could have done much better.  I could have used a small lathe of some sort to turn them, but not sure how you work on something this small on a lathe.  Thought about using drill motor, but the problem is how to hold onto it while turning.  Even small nail would be too big.  Any wire or nail small enough would not be strong enough, or that was my thinking.  I have no experience turning small parts like this, and very little experience turning anything.

 

So I shaped them by hand and thought I did pretty good until I starting rigging.  Trying to attach web rigging was difficult for me.  The buoys are a little slick and hard to hold, and rigging thread is a little stiff and won't lay down on the buoy.  And then you have to try to keep the webbing aligned, and this I did poorly.   It didn't help that the buoys were not perfectly round - "close enough" made it more difficult.

 

Just to get thread glued on the buoy, I found I needed to make a small depression for the knot (eye) to sit in.  A little CA in the depression and then the eye will stay there.  I held ends of thread with the mini-clothespins I've used before to hold small parts.  And I also held the buoy with a clothespin on one of the ringbolts.   I worked around the buoy gluing one eye at a time.  

 

If I had gotten the depressions aligned, all would have been ok.  But of course, I thought I had them aligned only to find out afterward that I didn't.  There's definitely a good side and a bad side to each buoy.  Photo shows the good side which I will mount to face outward.  The other side will be against the ratlines, so it won't show.

 

[desalgu]

If anyone noticed the anchors in above photo, you'll note they are wrong.  I was a complete bonehead and didn't pay enough attention to the plans.  I think I got absorbed making the parts and forgot the big picture.  The crosspiece should be perpendicular to the anchor prongs (or whatever they're called), not parallel.  I realized the problem when I got ready to glue on the anchor.  You can imagine what I was thinking.

 

So what to do.  Should remake it, but I'd already spent several days and hate doing something twice.  I decided I try a quick and dirty fix, so bent the metal anchor part, rotating it 90 deg.  It's soft metal, so it didn't break.  But it left a twist up near the crosspiece, so I glued some small pieces of wood and sanded them to conform to the new orientation.   I've added filler, and will sand some more.  I think after painting it will look halfway decent.  It's not like the metal anchor was very high quality to begin with.  I've been stuck until I get this done.

[WalrusGuy]

9 minutes ago, desalgu said:

Should remake it, but I'd already spent several days and hate doing something twice.

I'd say try to redo it if the twisted piece with filler looks off.

 

I know the feeling of redoing work, especially one that wasn't enjoyable to begin with (similar story for me with the chain plate assemblies... I'm close to finishing that stage and I'm not liking it as much as the wood work). But after finishing the model with it looking accurate, I'm sure you'll feel happy that you spent a bit more time. Also ModelExpo has a free replacement policy if you do plan to redo that piece. 

 

Btw your model so far is looking real nice! I've been referring to your log when I get stuck. 

[desalgu]

Glad this log has been useful.  If nothing else, it's a good review for me.

 

The anchor repairs came out pretty good, so I'm going with them.

[desalgu]

One thing I found out while getting ready to install anchors was that I should have put the anchor cable along the deck a long time ago, preferably before the masts were stepped.  In my case, I didn't make a thru hole for the anchor hawser.  My plan was to have a separate piece of anchor cable along the deck, and a separate piece coming out the hull to the anchor, faking that it continued thru the holes.  This is same method used with rigging going thru sheaves on the hull.

 

The problem is laying the anchor cable on the deck when there's a bunch of rigging in the way.  I either missed the step in the manual to do this earlier (most likely knowing me), or it wasn't in there.  Anyhow it was a rather tedious procedure to route the cable across the deck and try to get it in the appropriate holes.  One side came out ok, the other wasn't that great, but it was the best I could do.

 

I decided to change the order on installing anchors.  It looked to me that the anchor rigging on the cathead would be easier to do before gluing on the anchor.  It looked to me like a slight change in anchor position might make rigging difficult.  So instead of gluing anchor first, I did temporary rigging on the cathead hooking it to the anchor ring.

 

Then I positioned the anchor where I wanted it, trying to match photos in manual.  When you get the anchor in position, the rigging is about as tight (or short) as you can get it, so you can't really see it.  It really does hide the anchor rigging making me think the anchor rigging is a bit overkill, but it's in there.  I used clothespins to keep some tension on the rigging lines while positioning.

 

And now that I look at the photo, I can see I glued the anchor upside down.  I was working so hard trying to get it on position, I overlooked it.  One more thing to fix!  I've sure gotten careless the past week.  

 

 

[desalgu]

I've got both anchors mounted and rigged.  I waited to mount anchor buoys until I finished anchors.  I'll do that next.

[desalgu]

I added the anchor buoys such as they are.  They actually look better on model than in photo.  When looking at model actual size, you don't see my mistakes as much as in photo.   Every time I take a closeup photo I see mistakes or things I could have done better.  Next time as they say!

 

I'm thinking starting with a hardwood dowel and tapering it at both ends would have ended up with a better result.  There is still the problem of the web-like rigging and keeping it straight on the buoy.  It takes more skill and patience than I have right now (trying to learn more patience, ha!).  Perhaps using sculpey (sp?) clay is even a better way.  If the resulting buoy had a little texture or something that would grip rigging thread just a little, it would make doing the rigging web much easier.

 

 

[Ryland Craze]

Beautiful model.  I have enjoyed your build log and it will be a good reference for future Syren builders.  I am amazed at the amount of rigging on this model.  There is a lot of detail in your pictures.

[WalrusGuy]

On 2/25/2021 at 10:16 PM, desalgu said:

I added the anchor buoys such as they are.  They actually look better on model than in photo.  When looking at model actual size, you don't see my mistakes as much as in photo.   Every time I take a closeup photo I see mistakes or things I could have done better.  Next time as they say!

 

I'm thinking starting with a hardwood dowel and tapering it at both ends would have ended up with a better result.  There is still the problem of the web-like rigging and keeping it straight on the buoy.  It takes more skill and patience than I have right now (trying to learn more patience, ha!).  Perhaps using sculpey (sp?) clay is even a better way.  If the resulting buoy had a little texture or something that would grip rigging thread just a little, it would make doing the rigging web much easier.

 

 

Looks great, Desalgu!!