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Posted

Hi 

Sure it’s been covered 1000 times. Is it critical to remove the laser burn before glue.

Using Titebond 2. 

I can agree it might impede some absorption, but....

Things fit so nice and tight before removal.

Not so nice after. lol

 

Thank you 

 

OcCre Buccaneer

Posted (edited)

PVA needs a porous and secure surface to produce a strong bond.  The color does not matter.  If it is a layer of loose carbon, the joint needs to be abraded down to a firm layer. If it is just color on a firm layer it does not.

It is probably good practice to use a sharp single edge razor blade to scrape the surface.  Scraping means that the edge is dragged over the surface ~10-15 degrees ? and not pushed like a chisel. In a tight slot - a #11 blade may be what fits.

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

I carefully sanded the laser char off from areas that would be visible when I built the Medway Longboat. Otherwise, I only lightly sanded any surfaces that were to be glued if the laser char was heavy and dusty on them. I would just hit those areas lightly with sandpaper so that the char that remained was solid and not loose or too dusty. Those joints glued up nicely even though I did not completely sand off the char.

 

I did a small test where I glued up some scrap pieces of wood with char and some pieces with the char sanded off. Then I tried to break them apart and both were very strong without any noticeable difference. So now I only sand off char if it is particularly heavy and/or loose...just enough to give me a good fit between the pieces of wood to be glued. Many other modelers sand off all the char before gluing, however. 

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Thanks guys. I did notice the glue gets a good bite. This char isn't black. It looks more like a glaze. Its coming off OK. Just using a lighter touch. I was going down to fresh wood. Too deep. Not necessary. But, dare I say, some shims were on the first few parts.

Again, thanks for the responses.

Edited by ricky86

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