HMS Beagle by Robp1025 - OcCre - 1:60

[Robp1025]

So ending my day with these pictures. Thank you all for the likes and comments and I appreciate you guys taging along. The journey is only really getting started but each day with new victories makes it all the more worth it. 

[DonSangria]

About the belaying pins:

 

I don't know if this is also done in modeling, but I sailed on some tallships and sometimes there were two lines belayed on one pin. The first line was usually not used that much. And you just belay the 2nd line over the first. But maybe it looks too crowded in a model. I would probably do this only if there is really no other option.

[Robp1025]

3 hours ago, DonSangria said:

About the belaying pins:

 

I don't know if this is also done in modeling, but I sailed on some tallships and sometimes there were two lines belayed on one pin. The first line was usually not used that much. And you just belay the 2nd line over the first. But maybe it looks too crowded in a model. I would probably do this only if there is really no other option.

That's awesome to hear some real life experience. It makes sense to have to do that when on ships and there is no other options. 

[Keith S]

7 hours ago, DonSangria said:

About the belaying pins:

 

I don't know if this is also done in modeling, but I sailed on some tallships and sometimes there were two lines belayed on one pin. The first line was usually not used that much. And you just belay the 2nd line over the first. But maybe it looks too crowded in a model. I would probably do this only if there is really no other option.

 

I was just reading in one of my "rigging" books that they did that exact thing, often to free up a pin for something more temporary, like studding-sails for instance.

[Robp1025]

Well some stupid crap happened and well a bunch of the brass got ruined and bent up. A lot of the pieces got lost because I work in an area with a carpet and well I cant find crap lol. So looks like some of the brass details will have to get hand made. So while I try to find either a replacement brass etched sheet or a super thin brass spare segment I can use to make stuff I'm gonna have to hold on on doing those pieces and fit them on once I get them. But here is what we look like with the windlass and the finish of page I. 

 

it's not looking bad though I feel atleast. 

[Dean77]

Looking great, very nice and neat!

I know that feeling, the plastic box with all the small parts in it I knocked off my table onto the lounge carpet!

I spent the next hour laying on the floor picking up and sorting it all, pins, deadeyes, blocks etc.

Yes this is what ended up scattered over the floor!

 

[Robp1025]

Got atleast the chain and this first part on the page done. 

[Cathead]

Oh, that's the dark side of scale modeling for sure. I also work on a carpet and have used nautical language to describe such events. Think of it as a chance to learn new skills in metal fabrication!

[Robp1025]

Yea its gonna be an experience cause I need to find somewhere that ships out sheets and idk how I'm gonna cut it. I need to do some research cause like the ladders I only have enough for one ladder. It's all I could save lol I do have some pieces though so it's not all bad. 

[LucienL]

2 hours ago, Maliba1025 said:

Yea its gonna be an experience cause I need to find somewhere that ships out sheets and idk how I'm gonna cut it. I need to do some research cause like the ladders I only have enough for one ladder. It's all I could save lol I do have some pieces though so it's not all bad. 

Hey Maliba, my guess is that it would be easier to make the ladders out of wood than re-do the brass ones. I thought the brass ones looked a little flimsy anyway and am currently working on some wooden ones. It's a bit fiddly but would be easier than having to cut some brass, wood is a bit more forgiving with the glue and cutting.

[Robp1025]

1 hour ago, LucienL said:

Hey Maliba, my guess is that it would be easier to make the ladders out of wood than re-do the brass ones. I thought the brass ones looked a little flimsy anyway and am currently working on some wooden ones. It's a bit fiddly but would be easier than having to cut some brass, wood is a bit more forgiving with the glue and cutting.

Might be a good idea. I can always make any brass out of wood and paint it to try and make it look as real as I can. Thank you for the idea!!!

[Robp1025]

So got some smaller pieces going and installed which is nice. Got my brass rods in the mail which took much longer than I wanted. So just got a couple photos but still want to make sure you are all updated.

 

Hopefully you all are wanting to see the small updates but if you want it a little more spread out I can do that. I can also do more pictures so you can see more steps. Let me know so I can make this more interesting.

 

[Keith S]

Wow! I would love to pay OCCRE a visit at their factory, and show them all the little pieces in their parts-store that would have made life easier for those building their "Terror" model. I see lots of "Beagle" parts that would be nice to have on "Terror". For example, those warping drums with the hand crank. The "Terror" is festooned with those things, but not one included in the kit. Also the windlass barrel: the "Beagle" kit has double pawls, which would have been much more correct for "Terror" also. Instead, we "Terror" folk have had to make our own by turning down bits of dowel! 

[Robp1025]

2 hours ago, Keith S said:

Wow! I would love to pay OCCRE a visit at their factory, and show them all the little pieces in their parts-store that would have made life easier for those building their "Terror" model. I see lots of "Beagle" parts that would be nice to have on "Terror". For example, those warping drums with the hand crank. The "Terror" is festooned with those things, but not one included in the kit. Also the windlass barrel: the "Beagle" kit has double pawls, which would have been much more correct for "Terror" also. Instead, we "Terror" folk have had to make our own by turning down bits of dowel! 

It has its ups and downs currently working on cannons and had to make some of the wheels axels from dowels and I feel more achieved and that I have a better fit with it being crafted by hand instead of just given to me. 

[Keith Black]

1 hour ago, Maliba1025 said:

I feel more achieved and that I have a better fit with it being crafted by hand instead of just given to me. 

 

That's what we like to hear! 👍

[Robp1025]

Alright so we got cannons done. That was fun and got quicker as I kept going. Started with getting the bases built and the cannons painted with a blackened brass color.

 

 

Then its onto painting the bases its color and getting them ready for the next steps.

 

Did some measurements and found out that I dont have enough 1.5mm cause i used some on the stern ornaments to try and save on 1mm brass. So i did some whittling of spare dowels i have already purchased to make some spare axels.

 

Now after painting and some detail of showing the axel in the wheel instead of just making it pure black (dont have pictures of this step) then I assembled the first cannon.

 

After being happy with the turn out I did the other 5 and here we are. 

 

 

Edited April 29, 2021 by Maliba1025

[Robp1025]

So think towards more realism how would the cannons actually be tied down? Would there be slack on the ropes? And how would it be arranged if there was? Because I dont think that the way the instructions have it is how it was done. 

I didn't see anything in the AOTS book that I down loaded. (anatomy of the ship) @LucienL I know your more knowledgeable on the beagle them I and all I read is that they actually removed a good bunch of the cannons since it's a surveyor's ship. Anyone else's opinion would be appreciated too

[Robp1025]

I would like to make an addendum because well I'm an idiot sometimes. 

 

But now I need to fix the foremost cannon slightly as per these new developments. I wont be able to make that one 100% but I'll be using the single loops on the cannons on the deck to make it as real as I can. 

@LucienL if this is accurate I would love to hear incase the book is a little off. 

[Keith Black]

 Rob, there are no blocks in the cannon tackle on the instruction sheet, which is incorrect. The drawing in post #108 shows blocks and tackle and your cannon should be modeled accordingly. It's more work (and more expense if the blocks didn't come with the kit) but it's more accurate.

 

 Your cannon and carriages turned out great. 

[Robp1025]

So this is my attempt at the connecting two single sheaves to use for tacking down the cannon. I'm going to have to put pins a lot farther from the cannons but it looks nice. What do you guys think? Do I need to possibly not worry about it and order smaller single sheaves because it looks too big? 

 

Also is there a good knot to use when trying to work with connecting the two sheaves with a loop of string? Tried to look it up with no luck. 

[Keith Black]

 Rob, the blocks are not to scale, smaller blocks are required. Pull is through the hole/sheave, the exact opposite of what you've done. Also, the hole/sheave, should where the line is running on top of the block/sheave and not at the bottom. Study the drawing in post #108. 

[Robp1025]

2 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 Rob, the blocks are not to scale, smaller blocks are required. Pull is through the hole/sheave, the exact opposite of what you've done. Also, the hole/sheave, should where the line is running on top of the block/sheave and not at the bottom. Study the drawing in post #108. 

Hrmmmm that sucks alright well I'll need to wait till next week if I want to go this route 😕 I'll try to push ahead and mount the cannons once I have all the pieces with correct scale but I want to mount these right. It's part of learning and I want to learn not just breeze through. 

[Keith Black]

Rob, here is a drawing that maybe easier to understand than the drawing in #108.

 

[Robp1025]

Just now, Keith Black said:

Rob, here is a drawing that maybe easier to understand than the drawing in #108.

 

Wait there is a hook that is suppose to be on the inside part? Cause none of these blocks I have has tht.. hmmmmm I'll try to find these. It really does help a lot more thank you.

[Keith Black]

You have to make the hook or you can buy hooks and then they need to be stropped to the block. 

 

 

[Keith Black]

 I use wire to strop blocks, for me it's a lot easier. I use black annealed wire (or you can also use brass wire) below is a photo of the 24 GA wire I use, they also make it in 28 GA which I think is too small for your build. 

 

Edited April 30, 2021 by Keith Black

[Robp1025]

21 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

 I use wire to strop blocks, for me it's a lot easier. I use black annealed wire (or you can also use brass wire) below is a photo of the 24 GA wire I use, they also make it in 28 GA which I think is too small for your build. 

 

Well I got the making the hook part that isn't terrible difficult. I'm looking at the bottom of the block for the gun tackle there is a separate loop the string is first tied onto. That's what I was referring to not being on the blocks. 

[Keith Black]

6 hours ago, Robp1025 said:

there is a separate loop the string is first tied onto. That's what I was referring to not being on the blocks. 

 

 That's a becket, when only one block is used a becket is not required. When two blocks are used in conjunction with one another a becket is required on one block to join the two blocks. Shown is a double block, the nomenclature is the same for a single block. 

 

 

 

 

[Cathead]

I agree that wire is the most practical way to strop a block. Easier to use and easier to tighten properly.

[Robp1025]

So got the pumps finished up and got the deck house and such started slower on work days but still chugging along for sure. 

 

next will be finishing these up then going to start the smaller boats.