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HMS Beagle by Robp1025 - OcCre - 1:60


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12 minutes ago, Maliba1025 said:

Had to fix the rubbing stakes cause they literally pulled off two of them

 That's funny only because it was an easy fix. You need to post a picture of the culprits.  

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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So only some minor progress today got the diamonds all finished up and the sides filed down and got the 4 planks on the front end of each side. 

 

Question I have is I made a mistake and I can live with it if need be cause I dont want to cut blind into this model. I missed cutting out the front most window on each side and seeing as it doesn't get used for anything it might be fine. Or do you guys have any suggestions on how to get the window cut out without making a bigger mess for myself in the end. 

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Its looking really good! 

For the gunport you've missed. There is a side view of the hull at the bottom of sheet 'H' of the build photo instructions, that I'm sure is actual size, it might be possible to measure this and transfer the measurements onto the model.

Although, I don't think it would matter a great deal if you left it as it is to be honest!

Edited by Dean77
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So today was keel and paint day I'm trying to decide if I'll keep the paint as low as I did because I followed the curve because I felt it looked better but I'm not sure how I feel. Would love your guys opinion on it. I feel it went really well and the second coat you dont even seen the wood underneath at all. 

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Maliba, I'm not sure it wouldn't look better if the entire hull were painted.

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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4 hours ago, Keith Black said:

Maliba, I'm not sure it wouldn't look better if the entire hull were painted.

No not the entire hull. If you look in my side profile picture you will see the black follows the curvature of the ship. While the instructions say for it to be a straight line across. That's what I'm contemplating. 

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Starting to get some of the smaller pieces made now and working through page G of the instructions. 

 

This is where the real challenge begins for me as it's my first model so molding the wires and drilling correct holes is a skill improved by practice not by reading. Making parts from the wood provided and not just using pre cut blocks is tricky as well but I look forward to every obstacle as an opportunity. So here are a couple pictures from today. 

 

 

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Sorry for the late response. I would have advised painting straight across, which you ended up choosing, so no worries there.

 

As for the missing gunport, my favorite way to do that is to mark out the square and drill small holes just inside the boundary, essentially perforating the wood. This makes it easier to use a small knife or saw to cut out the port. The reason to ensure the holes are just inside, not right along the line, is that you'll end up with an uneven cut no matter how careful you are, so you can use a file or sandpaper to finish it out to the right size.

 

You could also try to simulate a closed gunport lid by using a file to scribe the boundary into the wood, then adding hinges and other details, maybe even a very thin piece over it.

 

You're making good progress and should be proud of your work so far.

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4 hours ago, Cathead said:

Sorry for the late response. I would have advised painting straight across, which you ended up choosing, so no worries there.

 

As for the missing gunport, my favorite way to do that is to mark out the square and drill small holes just inside the boundary, essentially perforating the wood. This makes it easier to use a small knife or saw to cut out the port. The reason to ensure the holes are just inside, not right along the line, is that you'll end up with an uneven cut no matter how careful you are, so you can use a file or sandpaper to finish it out to the right size.

 

You could also try to simulate a closed gunport lid by using a file to scribe the boundary into the wood, then adding hinges and other details, maybe even a very thin piece over it.

 

You're making good progress and should be proud of your work so far.

Thank you for the advice!! I'm gonna do the false gunport just to make sure I dont drill where there is no gunport. (I dont trust myself and want to make sure I do it right) 

 

I'm very proud and happy how things are turning out. It's also for enjoyment so it's easier to be ok with mistakes because I do find this relaxing and enjoyable. I also find getting closer and closer to the finished product is a big driving factor because I want to see what I'm fully capable of.

Edited by Maliba1025
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11 hours ago, Maliba1025 said:

Starting to get some of the smaller pieces made now and working through page G of the instructions. 

 

This is where the real challenge begins for me as it's my first model so molding the wires and drilling correct holes is a skill improved by practice not by reading. Making parts from the wood provided and not just using pre cut blocks is tricky as well but I look forward to every obstacle as an opportunity. So here are a couple pictures from today. 

 

 

20210409_005815.jpg

20210409_024824.jpg

20210409_005807.jpg

20210409_025616.jpg

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I know just how you feel about drilling holes in the hull you’ve lovingly got to the point you have. I felt just same on my Bluenose 2.

If I have any advice on this it’s not to rush this, but do take your time and make sure you adopt a  ‘measure twice, cut once’ approach, and do get  pin vise if you don’t already have one.

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1 hour ago, Penfold said:

I know just how you feel about drilling holes in the hull you’ve lovingly got to the point you have. I felt just same on my Bluenose 2.

If I have any advice on this it’s not to rush this, but do take your time and make sure you adopt a  ‘measure twice, cut once’ approach, and do get  pin vise if you don’t already have one.

So confession is that I originally had it open and first planking I was like "if this is open I dont want to see the inside of the ship". So, not looking further that there is gunport covers, my special self decided to keep it closed as a "cosmetic" look. Yep not the best idea. 

 

Also I have a pin vise and I love it to death lol. And thank you for your kind words about my build so far!!

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Good rescue on throwing out the originals! If you haven't glued the gun ports in yet you might want to rotate them 90 deg. The hinges should be vertical.

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1 hour ago, Techtonic said:

Good rescue on throwing out the originals! If you haven't glued the gun ports in yet you might want to rotate them 90 deg. The hinges should be vertical.

And just realized this but I would have to craft all brand new ones in order to turn them 90 degrees.....so looks like I'm going to be having to live with this mistake because it took me way more time then I want to admit to do those doors. It could be much worse and the doors,  compared to the dry fit without the second planking on them, came out extremely nice. 

 

I'll chalk it up to being my first actual full model and learn from the mistake. I'm finding myself more and more double checking pictures and measurements before placing more and more but I think I lost my patience with this part truth be told lol. 

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 Maliba, you'll forever regret not correcting them. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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 Maliba, I don't why white paint reacts differently than black paint but it does, at least for me it does. I have to substantially dilute white paint (acrylic) and apply several thin coats to cover. If I use white straight out of the bottle it looks "thick" and I lose a lot of detail.  

 

 You're making timely progress, keep up the good work. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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Are you using acrylic paint, what type are you using? 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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2 hours ago, Maliba1025 said:

I'm using acrylic paint 

 I don't think they sell a thinner version? I use plastic containers to paint out of. I dip my paint brush in my white wash water and add dab alongside the white paint in the container. I then mix water with paint using my brush until I get it to the right consistency. The right consistence comes from experience, there isn't a formula, at least none that've I've seen. 

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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So started work on the dead eyes and the finished product will be cleaner as per the first "test" assembly. Except now looking at the photo I'm realizing it's not as clean as I want...welp I can fix that lol. 

 

20210415_101448.thumb.jpg.2231b9ce81c14bb443f25ddde7a5733e.jpg So them popping up like that will be tucked into the whales so it's all clean fits. 

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I'm feeling like I'm wasting brass though with such long stems. (I'm a conservationist and hate waste 😵😵). I also do not have a extensive amount of back up supplies so there is that too which I'm trying to work on. Anyways yea going well and when I showed my wife she made the comment that it looks like cute lollipops. Felt like I should share that to see if I get any laughs. 

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