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HMS Victory by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC


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Crazy back story. Many years ago, in the 70’s when cameras still used film, I got my college degree in photography. Had a darkroom where I developed and printed my own film. The whole set up. Tried to make a living with photography but income was not enough to raise a family and a home so I eventually threw in the towel and got a job that would. Photography was just a hobby then. From time to time I was asked to be the photographer for a wedding.  When ever I did I was always highly stressed until I was able to get to the dark room and see my finished product!  My thoughts were always “what if something screwed up and I have no pictures, or dark pictures, etc. You only get one chance at a wedding, no do overs!  Was glad when digital photography cameras became affordable for the common man! Now I can see immediately if I need to take that shot again. 

 

 

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What a coincidence(ish). Back in early 1980's I also tried to make a living from photography. My bread and butter - and that was about all I could afford by way of food - was school year pics, you know, one frame per child, good or not, because film was pricey, you couldn't charge much and most people wouldnt buy anyway. I did the odd wedding for friends but hated that people would say 'but my photo of that scene is a bit better'. Well, yes, it would be as I set the shot up and you pounced in front of me to get yours first, stealing the mood. Never mind. My nadir came when I moved into college graduation shots, using a full studio setup. I took the most beautiful set of the most beautiful daughter of the most beautiful family on my gorgeous Mamiya 2 1/4" square, got home, opened the camera to process the film and.... yes, you guessed, no film. The rest of the story makes me shudder even now. It didn't go well. As none of this is what I actually enjoyed doing - arty still lifes and wildlife - I quit at that point. Since coming back to modelling my interest has been rekindled a little as I still love a really great photo; last week I bought some quite powerful LED worklights as these are much cheaper than 'photography' lights, and once I've figured out how to tether and control the camera from the computer I'll start playing with focus stacking.

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On 4/15/2022 at 11:18 PM, Ian_Grant said:

Marc - To be honest I haven't actually looked at the blocks in my SR; mostly the sprues are still in the plastic bags. I was just assuming that they are similar to those provided in the Victory. If they are, and if you like, I could send you my Victory blocks for postage.

I’m sorry for the lag, here, Ian.  That is a generous offer, but I do have my own Heller Vic blocks - funnily enough, I never focused on their attributes and quality.  I’ve held onto the kit since 1995.  

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

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On 4/23/2022 at 5:20 PM, Kevin-the-lubber said:

I’ve bought it (Amati) from Hismodel, think I get something like 7 sizes tailored to the Cutty, and it really wasn’t that expensive at about £22 for the set plus a little bit of postage. It’ll take 2 or 3 weeks to arrive but I’m fine with that. Thanks for the compliment,  this model really lends itself to little tweaks, being a relatively simple kit.

I will have to look into this - this may be the way for me.  I’ve been going back and forth about whether to buy a ropewalk and make scale rope, myself.  This feels like one of those things where I’d like to cheat a little and just buy good scale rope - at least for my current project.

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

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On 4/23/2022 at 8:25 AM, Bill97 said:

<snip...snip>  I cut off lengths longer than I need so they are easier to work with and I have no concern of them being to short. I then trim off the unneeded excess. Will have a bunch of 2, 3, 4 inch threads in a little trash pile when I stop working. No way I could afford to be that wasteful with Amati 😊.

Brings to mind the Monty Python skit about the fellow contacting an advertising agency because he has "a quantity of string" to sell. He speaks to one of the partners, a Mr. Wapkaplet, about selling the string which amounts to 122,00 miles. Difficulty is that the entire quantity is in 4 inch lengths (I think it was 4, might have been 6).  Mr. Wapkaplet goes on to brainstorm about how to frame the advertising campaign.......

 

Gotta love Monty Python. But they'd never get away with the stuff they did, on TV these days............

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4 hours ago, Hubac&#x27;s Historian said:

I’ve been going back and forth about whether to buy a ropewalk and make scale rope, myself.

I thought about that myself, or rather, making one, but as I need some rope fairly soon and the Amati kit is so reasonably priced, I’ll give that a go. I’ve never seen proper miniature rope in the flesh so am keen to see how it compares to what comes with the kits. I will, however, either buy or make a serving machine.

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Ok gentlemen another rigging sequence question. Trying to determine how Longridge suggests doing it. Do you recommend putting on all the stays up through top gallant stays and royal stays before any of the back stays, or do you recommend some other sequence?

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Great Ian that makes perfect since. 

 

Another thing I have been looking for with not much luck and wonder if any of you know a reference I can use is the layout of the blocks and other rigging that goes on each yard?  It will still be a bit before I start working on them but would love me to find what I need in advance. I plan to tie all the foot ropes and necessary blocks to each yard before I attach it to the mast. Don’t know if there is a simple diagram that might show what is needed on each yard and where positioned?  

Edited by Bill97
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Bill, not sure what reference books you have. I don't have any simple diagrams. Longridge plans 8 and 9 are pretty good for all the blocks near the centres of lower and topsail yards. Also plan 7 "Running Rigging", although it takes getting used to, shows all the blocks mounted on yards and positions of footrope stirrups etc. But you need to know what you're looking at e.g. the two buntline blocks on a course vs the singles on a topsail yard. It takes some flipping between plan 7 and the other zoomed-in drawings. Sorry!

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Ok my friends this was a full Sunday’s work. Got these rigging lines (whatever the proper name is) completed on the main mast. I do not have any triple blocks for the upper block so I just used the largest doubles I have. Also used a large double block instead of a thimble for the middle one. 

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No Ian. Those are just threads I put through the blocks to hang weight from for the photos. No actual bunt lines rigged yet. Appreciate your compliment. I learned that is for sure a step I will do sooner in the standing rigging on future builds. Little tedious working around the shrouds. 

 

I have to admit Ian this rigging is really starting to make since thanks to you. And as it does it becomes easier to understand what and how to do a particular line. Thanks again for the spread sheet of line sizes. I use it constantly!

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Ok gentlemen I have finished the jeer blocks on the fore and main mast. I am now ready to move on to the different backstays. I immediately see the the breast backstay and two of the three standing backstays are in front of the shrouds. Should I go ahead and do the ratlines first or work around the backstays later to tie the ratlines?

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Interesting question for you guys. I am currently working on adding the backstays to the masts. I have looked at Longridge and a number of builds here on MSW for the placement of the loop for the stay and preventer stay. On mine I have the loop made by the fore and main stay and preventer stay going around the shrouds and back stays at the mast head. Others I have seen (see attached photo as example) show the backstays placed on top of the loops of the stay an preventer stay. Which way is correct? When I read Longridge, he says to place the back stays on top the shrouds. I did it that way and have the loops of the stays going around the top of the shrouds and back stays. (See 2nd photo which is my ship). Does it matter?

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Bill, in the case of the lower mast head there are no backstays and the stay passes around the sum total of the clinched shrouds. As on your model.

 

In the case of the topmast head, the stay similarly passes around the the sum total of the clinched backstays and shrouds. See Plan 9. The first photo is incorrect in having the stays buried under the backstays. Plan 9 has a nice inset drawing on sequence at mast head too.

 

Finally, I notice in your pic that the mice are dark. You decided to paint the pearls?

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Thanks Ian. I thought I was doing it correct according to Longridge. Glad you mentioned the black bead mouse. That was my first time high I did paint. After that I decided to leave them pearl. Need to go back and remove the acrylic paint from these first two. 
 

What is your opinion about the backstays and the shroud ratlines?  Should I go ahead and do the ratlines before backstays are in place or reach through the backstays that will be positioned in front of the shrouds to do the ratlines later?

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Simply WOW!

XXXDAn

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

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