HMS Victory by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC

[Ian_Grant]

Bill, regarding the sprit topsail, I was not able to find any detailed descriptions in the books I have, but I did find these diagrams in Harland. As you can see the topsail went from vertically set in the days of the sprit topmast, to more flatted out between sprit topsail yard and spritsail yard in the days of the jib boom.

 

[Bill97]

Yeah Ian. That makes since. It was more of a curiosity than a concern since I plan to have the sails furled. Of course I may have my top spritsail yard out a little further than needed as well. It just looked like when unfurled that sail would come in contact with the inner and outer martingales. Since that sail would be on more of an angle it would probably come close to following the line of the martingales. 

[Bill97]

Installed Daniel’s Fore chains, Mizzen chains, and a few of the Main chains on the port side. Once all the chains on the port side are installed I will go back an install the preventer chain plate for the main and fire channels. This will involve drilling a bazillion little holes for the needles (bolts). Then on to the starboard side. As I have mentioned before I am leaving all Daniel’s etched parts brass instead of blackened. Should give a unique appearance to the model. 

[Bill97]

Continued working on the lower deadeye chains, irons, and the preventer chain plates I got from Daniel. Completed the bolts on the mizzen chains and started the preventer plates and bolts on the main chains. I used a thread attached to the mast top and held across the deadeyes to get the proper position of the chains and preventer plates. Still a ways to go with them. Got tired of drilling holes for the needles (bolts) so I moved to the work on chains on the starboard side. Will go back to working on the port side bolts tomorrow. I changed my method of preparing the chains for the starboard side. On the port side I placed the deadeye and iron in the hole in the channel and with a drop of CA glue. Once the glue set up I prepared the bottom two sections of the chain and struggled a bit to attach it to the bottom loop in the iron on the underside of the channel and then apply a touch of CA to the small overlap in the middle iron. Felt my result was a little less sharp looking than I wished. On the starboard side I decided to assemble the complete iron off the ship except for the preventer plate. This made closing up the overlap much easier and cleaner. Once the CA set up I dropped the completed iron into the hole in the channel. I drilled the holes slightly larger to accommodate the iron. Next I will go back and lift the deadeyes up slightly and apply a drop of CA in the hole then reposition the deadeyes. Later I will add all the preventer plates and bolts

[Bill97]

A little possible help maybe. Looking at a number of pictures I can see there eyebolts placed here and there on the channels behind the deadeyes. I have not been able to get a clear diagram as to where they are needed. As usual I have no doubt there is a clear picture right under my nose in Longridge’s book 😊, unless someone tore that page out. 

[Ian_Grant]

Plan 7 shows those needed for running rigging. You can pick the lines out then look them up in the index for text description.

 

Plan 6 tries to show those needed for standing rigging but it's obscured by deadeyes. Eyebolts are needed for topmast shifting backstays, topgallant shifting backstays on fore and main, and royal backstays. Shifting backstays are those with a block in them at the bottom end as shown in Plan 6.

 

Relevant text is pp 231-233.

 

Good luck!

Edited February 2, 2022 by Ian_Grant

[Bill97]

Ian do you remember, or want to make a guess, at the size of the seed beads you used to make your parrals?

[Ian_Grant]

I think 10/0 for the topsail yards, 11/0 for the topgallants.

[Bill97]

Thanks Ian. I was looking at some online and wondered what size to get. Still a good while before I start hanging the yards but always thinking ahead. 

[Bill97]

Hmmmm? I wonder?  Looking at the deadeyes I have installed on the foremast channel I am wondering if they are a little to tight together?  Based on Daniel’s recommendation I increased the size of he foremast channel and drilled new holes for the deadeye irons. Now that I have placed the irons in the new holes I can see a few of the deadeyes actually touch each other. New holes drilled slightly to close together or wooden deadeyes slightly bigger than Heller plastic deadeyes for which the channel was designed.  Since the shrouds basically form a triangle shape with the apex at the top the sides will obviously get narrower as I move up from the channel. The result will be that the upper deadeyes will be slightly closer together than the bottom deadeyes, some of which are already touching each other. The future distance between the lower and upper deadeyes for the shrouds is not that much, maybe 10mm or so. Even though it is only a few here and there across the fore channel I am curious/concerned that it will cause the shrouds to not lay flat. To bow outward or inward along the upper deadeye line. I have already glued them in on the port side but not yet the starboard side. I know I will not try to move the ones on the port side for fear of to much damage to the fragile brass irons. However I may try to determine if I should adjust the holes for the irons on the starboard side before gluing them in. Oh the tangled web we weave when we bash! 😊

[Bill97]

Chains and preventer plates on the port mainmast channel!

[Bill97]

Deadeyes, irons, chains, and preventer plates completed on port side. Woo! There is some work to that!  Daniel I know it was not your intention when you made these etched sheets but I really like them left brass, as well as all your other pieces😊.

[Bill97]

OK here is my next curiosity. I am sure it is a matter of preference for each builder and not a standard practice. I have looked through the build blog of a number of builds and read through Longridge’s book but don’t have a clear course of how to proceed. The curiosity is when do you hang your yards in conjunction with the standing rigging?  I know I am going to rig each yard with all the needed blocks and ropes off the ship. I also know I am going to use the tiny brass rod technique to attach it to the mast and cover it with a parral. That is all good. Once I finish the deadeye chains on the starboard side I am moving into the standing rigging following the recommended sequence. As I stated above when do you attach them.  I have my mast assembled up to the top masts and am planning to hang the shrouds and stays up to that point then complete the remainder of the masts along with the remaining standing rigging. Do you hang up he yards before the standing rigging, after all the standing rigging, or as you make your way up?  I know it has to be done before the running rigging. 

[Bill97]

Deadeyes, irons, chains, and preventer plates completed all the way around. Did not add pictures since it is redundant to pictures already included. Now to add the eyebolts and blocks on the channels that will be used later in the standing and running rigging. Then I guess it will be time to start using some of this rigging thread!  

[Bill97]

Trying out an idea I saw here on MSW somewhere. That is putting a bit of diluted white glue on weighted threads that make the foot ropes. This should help them hang more naturally once the glue dries. We will see. Also trying it on the burton pendants. 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

You're really going for broke on the rigging Bill, this is going to be a fabulous spectacle when it's finished.

[Bill97]

Thanks Kevin. I am learning as I go along. I appreciate your compliment and expectations. If it is half as good when completed as you think it will be I will be happy. 

[Bill97]

Ok my friends a little help again. I am kind of moving back and forth between rigging steps and a few remaining ship structure steps. Based on pictures I have seen I know there is safety netting at the bow along the curve and out the bowsprit by the cap. If you could shed some light on the proper way for this to be done I would appreciate it. I am reading through Longridge’s book to see if I can find reference. 

[Bill97]

Disregard the above question about the protective netting. I finally found reference to it and instructions in Longridge. I am getting better at understanding this fine book. 

[dafi]

Wonderful work 🙂

 

For the netting beside the heads, there is the middle stanchion for the top bar in the etch set.

 

All the best, Daniel

[Bill97]

I little progress report of weekend activities. Added the safety netting at bow and the bowsprit. Unfortunately Daniel I got your comment to late 😕.  I added a plastic center support. Also decided to finish building the masts before starting the standing rigging. Not sure if that is recommended or not, but that is what I did. Finished the fore mast. I reinforced the lower two sections with brass rods but left the top gallent as is since it is a solid piece and intricately shaped. 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

That's very tidy Bill, what did you use for the netting?

[Bill97]

Kevin here in the states our fabric shops have a product called tulle. I am sure you guys have it there as well. It is sometimes used for veils and other decorative things. 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

I must make a note of that, shouldn’t be hard to find.

[Ian_Grant]

19 minutes ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

I must make a note of that, shouldn’t be hard to find.

Got mine from Hobby-Lobby.

[Bill97]

Same with me Ian. 

[Bill97]

All 3 completed mast are up and aligned behind each other. I think I am getting close to days and weeks making shrouds!  This baby is tall!

Edited February 15, 2022 by Bill97

[Bill97]

Ok Ian my friend I need a 👍or 👎🏻on a few rigging lines you recommended I do before the shrouds get in the way.
 

Reading Longridge’s book, looking at the bit chart and reading a couple of your comments way back, I understand the main course bunt lines angle forward of the mainmast to bits behind the foremast as in my photo. This is my first where they go forward instead of straight down to a bit at base of the corresponding mast. 

 

Do the main course leech lines pass from forward to aft through the blocks under the main top like the bunt lines, or do they pass through the blocks aft to forward?  Either way it is obvious they will pass through the shrouds. 

[Ian_Grant]

Bill, the course leech lines go up more or less vertically from the deck belay point, pass through the under-top blocks from aft to forward, and then to the leech line block on lower yard. See text pg 243 and plan 8 for the fore mast; the main is the same.

 

Yes, the leech lines pass between the shrouds and the futtock shrouds if that is what you mean. They then run to the yard, passing  forward of the forward-most lower shroud. As in plan 8 again.

 

Longridge also mentions that the main course leech lines each connect to a single 10" block, to form tackles to reduce the pulling force. For some reason, this is mentioned as only an option for the fore leech lines 😬

 

You're certainly running rings around me and my "rigging" of Preussen; I can only stand about one hour sessions then I'm done. Still distracted by thoughts of an RC galley 😀, and also spending time keeping active (skated 27 km on the Rideau Canal today ⛸️ Hmmm, no "hockey skate" emoji, I don't wear womens' white figure skates 😁).

[Bill97]

Thanks Ian. I will go back into the “shipyard” tomorrow and compare my lines to your instructions. So the leach lines go through the blocks opposite direction of the way the buntlines do?  Started playing with my serv-o-matic today. Served the first two lower shroud pairs for the foremast. Longridge states that the front shroud of the first pair on each side is served all the way down to the deadeye. He also states that 18’ of the center of each shroud is served. My scale conversion chart puts 18’ at 1/100 scale to be 2 1/16”. So for all the remaining shrouds I will only serve 2 1/16” in the center to wrap around the mast. For the first shroud pair for each side I served the entire shroud long enough to go from the upper deadeye up and around the mast and down 1” on the aft side (1/2 of 2 1/16”). 
 

Ian that is a lot of skating! Great job. By the way I was truly surprised at the Olympic hockey results!

Edited February 16, 2022 by Bill97