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Posted

Building the San Felipe and many of the brass castings have a hard whitish, almost crystalline substance in many of the crevices. A gentle probing with a dental tool seems to do almost nothing to remove it and it really degrades the look of the piece. I'm looking for ideas to clean the pieces with this residue up some, the casting is already of fairly poor quality and I'm hoping I can do something to improve the look before attaching them to my kit. I've thought of trying an old toothbrush with some toothpaste and seeing that if does anything but if a dental tool doesn't dent it I doubt a soft brush will either. Removing this material from the crevices would help restore some of the definition and it would be nice if it was brass color everywhere without the whitish crystal look in the crevices. 

 

A side question is this really brass or some brass like alloy? Some of the pieces have the color and brightness of brass and these pieces are much better cast with good definition. The pieces with the residue have a more tarnished and dingy look with softer edges.

 

I tried taking a picture and it doesn't show it very well. The piece also doesn't look as bad as the picture makes it look, it's not great though.

P016.jpg

Posted

Brass is an alloy anyway so "alloy of brass" is a kind of funny term.  Anyway if it is brass, you might try a pickling compound like Sparex but be careful it does etch the surface if left to long.  Maybe try brushing it on and then stopping the reaction with bicarbonate of soda.

 

John

Current Build:

Medway Longboat

Completed Builds:

Concord Stagecoach

HM Cutter Cheerful

Royal Caroline

Schooner for Port Jackson

 

Posted

I  believe the Mantua kits actually use bronze for their castings - at least the older kits.  Don`t know about the newer kits.  As far as cleaning them, you might try a buffer wheel in a Dremel tool if you have one.  They use the lost wax method of casting, so the residue may be some of the wax that has hardened.  You might also try applying some heat to them - like a hair drier or very hot water -  to see if the residue softens up.

 

Mark 

current build - HMS Vanguard - Model Shipways

 

Posted (edited)

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc while bronze is an alloy of copper and tin and sometimes other metals.  So, both will react with pickling compound but it is designed to remove oxide coating.  However, as Mark says the contaminant may simply be wax and if so a bit of heat is worth a try before going with a chemical treatment.

Edited by bartley

Current Build:

Medway Longboat

Completed Builds:

Concord Stagecoach

HM Cutter Cheerful

Royal Caroline

Schooner for Port Jackson

 

Posted
Quote

Silly question but have you tried soaking it in in water?

I haven't tried soaking it in water but I did spend quite a bit of time under very hot tap water with an old toothbrush and toothpaste. This did help quite a bit and now it seems that where the residue was before that the surface texture is different than the "good" areas. I'm calling a good area one where the surface is smooth and shiny. It's hard to tell if there's still a slight bit of residue left or if it's completely gone and the surface of the brass where it was previously just has a different texture than the other surfaces. I'm still debating if I'll try soaking in Sparex, on one hand I'd like to try it and see what it gets me for learning but on the other hand if the texture of the surface is just different in these areas now (which I believe to be the case) I don't see how it could do much for that. Luckily I have a lot of time before I have to attach any brass to the kit so I can keep thinking about it and make a decision. Either way I'll report back whatever I decide and the results.

Posted

If it is wax, paraffin - petrol based wax, an organic solvent should have an effect on it - e.g.  mineral spirits, naphtha, lacquer thinner - or hot white pet (Vaseline) or mineral oil  or 3-in-1,  Then the detergent and scrub to remove the lower MW liquid material.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

You mention a texture to the surfaces. I recall seeing in one of the carving threads on the forum that often the "background" surfaces between carved figures was pitted to create a surface that wasn't smooth and shiny.

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

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