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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - 1/48 scale


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After a false start in which I snapped off the bow extension when removing the bulkhead former from the sheet!  Things seem to be going well now.  The two sections of the bulkhead former were glued together and the rabbet strip glued in place.

Keel&FalseKeel.jpg

The stem pieces and the keel  were sanded on their faces to remove laser car but the edges were left unsanded.  The treenails were simulated as described by chuck using a 0.5 mm drill and filling with neutral filler.  After a coat of wipe-on-polly they were glued to the bulkhead former and fitted well with out the need for fettling.

Keel_Bulkhead-former.jpg

As recommended by Chuck no laser char was remove from the bulkheads and all fitted firmly.  Care was taken to retain each one square in all directions.

Stage2a.jpg

The bow and port filler blocks are added.

Stage3.jpg

Next comes, for me, the challenging process of fairing the hull correctly

 

Stage-4.jpg

I think I have a way to go yet but trial battens are beginning to look close. I am taking a rest now.  I think patience is the key here I am a little concerned about taking too much of the stern as others report it getting too narrow here.

 

John

Edited by bartley
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Unfortunately there are lots of photos of this step but obviously good planking depends on this step being correct.

 

 

Fairing.jpg

 

 

Fairing2.jpg

Test battens seem to sit flat on most bulkheads but it is a bit proud at the bow.  So I thought I needed to take bit more of the marked bulkheads.

Bow.jpg

Obviously it is difficult to see how good (or bad) this is without seeing the actual model but this is the best I can do at this distance

 

Edited by bartley
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  • 2 weeks later...

Post 4

 

I have now finished the Gun-port linings.  I used the method recommended by Chuck using a batten to obtain  smooth curve.  Although I eyeballed  the port and starboard battens to make sure they were the same.  I also double checked by using a level as here:

Stage-6a.jpg

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A word of warning.

 

Chuck warns about this later with respect to the stern ports but it is also important to make sure that all the gun-port sills fit snugly.  If they are a fraction long they will push the bulkheads out of square and negate all of your careful fairing because it changes the angle.  This happened on a couple of mine but fortunately I noticed the bulkhead move  and so took a little off the sill in question.  It doesn't take much.

 

John

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Stage-9.thumb.jpg.ebd123d7dd5bdb77e3c87604508cb3c7.jpg

Post 5

 

Framing the Stern

 

Following Chuck's suggestions, I first glued in the main outer frames (z)

Stage-7.jpg

Then the outer frames themselves (zz) are glued to these:

Stage-7a.jpg

And the whole assembly faired to match the hull:

Stage-7b.jpg

Stage-8.jpg

After installing the central frames, the gun-port sills and lintels were installed.  As reported by others, I found this step surprisingly tricky and I had to un-glue and reinstall several times!  I used a level and a sized block to ensure that each was level with the waterline and sized the same:

Stage-10a_Small.jpg.4e2327022cb3285e3ff8800c9cbda08a.jpg

Stage-9_small.jpg.f75b23ea33e4966365f61d04ee81b548.jpg

Here is the result

 

 

Stage-10a_Small.jpg

Stage-10_small.jpg

Edited by bartley
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On 2/21/2019 at 11:13 AM, bartley said:

Stage-9.thumb.jpg.ebd123d7dd5bdb77e3c87604508cb3c7.jpgPost 5

 

Framing the Stern

 

Following Chuck's suggestions, I first glued in the main outer frames (z)

 

Then the outer frames themselves (zz) are glued to these:

 

And the whole assembly faired to match the hull:

Stage-7b.jpg

Stage-8.jpg

After installing the central frames, the gun-port sills and lintels were installed.  As reported by others, I found this step surprisingly tricky and I had to un-glue and reinstall several times!  I used a level and a sized block to ensure that each was level with the waterline and sized the same:

 

 

Stage-9.jpg

Here is the result

 

 

 

 

Stage-10a_Small.jpg

Stage-10_small.jpg

Post 9

 

Wales and Molding Strip

 

Stage 13a.jpg

 

The red that I am using here is Vallejo Flat Red.  .  Synthetic dies and bright colours were not developed until 1856 and even then they were expensive.  So the paint at this stage would have been red lead - cheap but effective. I feel that this colour is close to the red lead paint we used on our barns when I lived on a farm as a boy.  I dilute the paint down considerably with 50:50 Vallejo thinners and deionized water and then apply about seven coats.

 

John

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Post 10

 

Planking above the wales

 

Planking up to the Molding strip was straight forward:Stage14.jpg.2abe3df618b36390958adca14de4e6ed.jpg

However planking around the gun-ports was tricky (for me at least) and took some time. However it is a nice little feature once done

Previous builds have involved continuous planking up to the sheer and then cutting the gunports into those planks an lining afterwards,  Chuck suggest that the rabbet should be 1/64 ‘’.  This is 0.39 mm.  I was not confident I could do this consistently so I made mine 0.5 mm.  I also found that for the fairly constant gaps amidships pre-making a set of planks  helped me to get the rabbet parallel to the port.  This is not my idea and I must  thank Rafine for the suggestion:

617011376_PlankStack.jpg.0211d4061b1044282f86da47342cdf8a.jpg

So here is the result:

1857189706_Stage15.jpg.936dd8e20911b2b4e03d69c49e513afb.jpg

Stage15a.jpg

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Chuck,

 

I obviously need to sand this back quite a bit to level up the planks but I am not sure how aggressive I can be here.  I am used to double planking where a bit of bog can be used to help but this is a new world.  I guess 3/64 is quite thick and any deviations are only a few thou.

 

John

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  • 2 weeks later...

Chuck,

 

I have been experimenting with some treenailing above the wales.  I have a couple of questions>

 

Between the bulkheads I find I am drilling right thru the plank.  Presumably this is Ok since it will be covered by the bulwark planking?

 

Secondly: How do you avoid filling the caulking line between the planks?

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Post 13

 

Chuck suggests adding the second layer to the Wales at this stage. However, others on the site have suggesting added the next two layers of planking first and so I adopted this course of action.  I found the drop plank a bit tricky to fit but after several paper patterns I developed a better understanding of what the shape should and I am now satisfied with the fit.

 

 

 

MG_4009.jpg

MG_4008.jpg

Edited by bartley
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  • 3 weeks later...

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