HMS GREYHOUND by Jackson7 - Corel - Collaboration With My Past Self

[Jackson7]

I'm about 70 percent sure the rear bulkheads were off on mine, but when I put them on I wasn't knowledgeable enough to know. 

 

I also notice now that some of the rear frames are clearly in need of packing. But I didn't do that either. 

 

Ah well. In the words of a friend of mine, "Fake it till you make it."

 

My hope at this point is that a very rigorous sanding of the lime hull combined with careful application of the second plank layer will cover all these defects. So far, my work on the hull above the gunwale seems to bear out this theory.

 

I look forward to testing it in a more curved part of the ship.

 

 

 

 

[Jackson7]

This week, I got a little behind my progress with posting. 

 

The second 1mm by 1mm piece went on with no complications. For all intents and purposes, it was the same as the other side. 

 

I measured a piece slightly longer than the distance between the gun ports, glued it on with a little overlap, and trimmed it to near flush with the gunports. When I have all the pieces attached into a solid whole, I will sand them to flush. Until then, there's no point in risking a snapped piece of wood because something was unsupported.

 

I used the small nails from the kit because the thumb tacks were too big. By driving the nails in at an 80 degree angle, I was able to hold it against the plank above it tightly. 

 

Once you have the first plank in, it serves as a guideline for all the rest.

[Jackson7]

At last! At long last!

 

The delicious color of dandelions, daffodils, and lethal broadsides of grapeshot makes its appearance!

 

You heard it here first, gentlemen. Yellow is back in town!

 

This plank went on just like the last one, just with slightly less fear of breakage. It's a lot thicker than 1mm by 1mm.

 

I even used the same curve of nails on my 'wooden anvil' to shape it. In fact, the last four planks all followed practically the same curvature. I find that 20 minutes in water microwaved for two minutes makes the wood soft enough to bend, and 12 hours held in place by nails makes it hold shape. 

 

I usually keep it on the nails for a full day, just to be sure. 

 

For the first yellow plank, I used the one with the most imperfections and worst narrowing toward the end. I cut off the worst imperfections in the wood so that I wouldn't have to use them in a later, more whole plank.

 

However, this step did have three complications.

 

First, when I used the tacks to place the wood, several were placed against the wood with harsh enough pressure that there are some small dents from the tacks' metal. I will patch it with the scrap yellow wood.

 

Second, a few places have a clear jump up from gunport to gunport rather than a flowing curve. I won't be able to curve the next plank flush to these imperfections. I will patch it with the scrap yellow wood.

 

Finally, when I boiled the curved piece at the bow, the boiling removed some of that sweet, sweet yellow. Disappointingly, I cannot patch it with the scrap yellow wood.

 

In the long term, this problem may not matter. I'm considering staining the entire hull and then painting the yellow part with the same paint I previously used for the stern piece. 

 

If I don't do that, I'll just have to paint it yellow anyway. Several layers of watered-down pain should probably give me a nice look while still preserving the contours of the wood. 

 

 

 

 

[Jackson7]

The continued application of the yellow planking has gone without a hitch. I'm now on my third plank down the hull.

 

The only real difficulty is that when I push the tacks in, the wood bracing between the gun-ports tends to take a beating. However, a little glue for the broken pieces and the assurance that I'll be planking over the inside of the rail eventually keeps me unafraid of the small cracks on the inside.

 

I've been working to push the planks close together while gluing so that I get a good fit. So far, it's been successful. The colors make a nice, sharp contrast.

 

Even better, the planks on the left and right side of the ship now align in front.

 

The most important thing I've learned so far on the second layer is that where the first layer isn't perfect, the second can disguise and correct minor errors. A first coat should be 80% right, and the additional 20% can come in during the second. 

 

 

[hamilton]

Looking good! 

hamilton

[Jackson7]

 

I knew things had been going to smoothly for far too long. It has now been one day since I've made a mistake.

 

While gluing the last yellow strip on, the strip went out of position. I didn't notice until long after the glue had dried, leaving a 1mm empty space between the keel at the bow and the strip.

 

Thankfully, I have amassed a vast collection of small scrap wood pieces. At first, I fixed the problem by cutting out an equivalent-sized chunk of wood and fitting it into place.

Then I realized this was a bad solution that left a fairly large crack between the two pieces.

 

After cutting the botched replacement job away, I tried again with a different method. I cut out a piece of scrap wood about a millimeter longer than the missing segment, then shaved the end of the bow plank down until it came to a point against the ship edge. Unfortunately, I didn't get pictures. The two pieces looked roughly like this:

 

[/     /=============================]

SHIP SIDE

 

Then, I glued the small piece onto the edge of the plank already on the ship. There was a tiny bit of overlap.

 

[//=============================

SHIP SIDE

 

After a few refinements by knife, it was almost impossible to distinguish the end result from an undamaged plank.

 

 

The good news is that I'm done with the entire yellow layer.

 

 

 

 

 

[Jackson7]

For the next step, I'd like some advice. I have six 2mm by 2mm pieces of walnut I need to bend on next, but they don't feel very bendy. Do I just need to boil them hard and bend them as in past updates, or is there a trick to getting thicker pieces of wood to get the right shape?

[Jackson7]

Before bending on the walnut, I finished sanding the gun ports. It's made them much more square and satisfyingly wide.

 

Low-risk, high-reward steps like these can be relaxing waypoints between the thrill of trying to make a thin plank bend without breaking it.

 

To cut out the ports, I cut a triangle into the middle of the bottom piece of yellow basswood. Then, I whittled at the edges of the triangle until I reached the edges of the port. Finally, I used a small file to cut away the remaining surplus wood and the deformities in the metal.

 

 

[harlequin]

keep going...despite its obvious faults with the kit it does make a good looking model when finished...

[Jackson7]

Hey @harlequin, any advice on how to best bend the 2mm by 2mm walnut pieces?

 

[harlequin]

58 minutes ago, Jackson7 said:

Hey @harlequin, any advice on how to best bend the 2mm by 2mm walnut pieces?

 

i have an amati plank bender which i carefully apply more and more pressure letting the tool cut slightly into the rear of the walnut 2x2. I also use a small travel iron and steam to get the planks to bend.....it really is trial and error to see what works best for you....  

[Jackson7]

22 minutes ago, harlequin said:

i have an amati plank bender which i carefully apply more and more pressure letting the tool cut slightly into the rear of the walnut 2x2. I also use a small travel iron and steam to get the planks to bend.....it really is trial and error to see what works best for you....  

Thanks for the advice. I guess it really is an art more than a science.

[harlequin]

6 hours ago, Jackson7 said:

Thanks for the advice. I guess it really is an art more than a science.

and each piece of wood varies.....what works for one piece doesnt always work for another....

[Jackson7]

 

 

The answer to the gunwale issue was spaghetti!

 

After thinking about it for a few days, I remembered an experience I had cooking spaghetti recently. The narrow spaghetti noodles became flexible quickly when boiled, but thicker linguini noodles took some time before becoming flexible.

 

I applied the same principle to the 2mm by 2mm gunwale. Instead of soaking it in hot water for 20 minutes as in previous steps, I soaked it for about an hour, changing into new hot water every 20 minutes. 

 

It worked like a charm. So well, in fact, that I forgot to post until now. 

 

 

The one difficult part was bending the unsoaked parts of the wood on to the hull. However, by putting thumb tacks into the ribs of the ship, I could get a strong enough hold to secure the gunwale. At this point, I have only two gunwale pieces currently left to glue on, and one left to bend. 

 

 

[harlequin]

excellent, you found a technique that works for you....half the battle won. 

[Jackson7]

6 hours ago, harlequin said:

excellent, you found a technique that works for you....half the battle won. 

Yep. Now it's just the execution.

[Jackson7]

 

I have now finished the gunwales. Everything went great. 

 

Of course, I'm now almost out of wood glue and will soon have to take a pilgrimage to Hobby Lobby for more supplies. 

 

Even worse, eyeballing it suggests I'm short on the walnut planks needed for the next step. I haven't made a very careful measurement of what I need yet, but the chances are it'll take forever to get more stuff. 

 

At least what I have done so far looks beautiful. Despite a fairly rough first planking, the second one has fit together beautifully so far. 


 

[Jackson7]

In the mean time, if I can't plank down, I'll see about planking up.

 

But as usual, the instructions aren't even worth looking at. @harlequin, @ccoyle, if you can tell by the pictures, I have maybe less than one milimeter of exposed walnut planking from the first layer between the second hull layer and the rail.

 

Do I plank over all of that, cut it away, leave it exposed, or something else?

 

Could you send me some pictures of your completed Greyhounds to make it clear?

 

 

[harlequin]

hope this helps

[Jackson7]

Thanks, much appreciated. Could I get a shot of the bow and stern too?

 

[Jackson7]

 

It's as I feared. I'm at least two planks short, and a couple of the planks I do have have some deformities. 

 

It looks like it's time to ship more ship for my ship.

[harlequin]

[ccoyle]

If you have any hobby shops near you (rare these days, I know), you can check to see if they carry milled lumber. Look for shops that cater to model railroaders and the RC plane crowd.

[Jackson7]

13 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

If you have any hobby shops near you (rare these days, I know), you can check to see if they carry milled lumber. Look for shops that cater to model railroaders and the RC plane crowd.

Thanks, far better to be at the mercies of Chattanooga than at the mercies of Amazon!

[Old Collingwood]

Not sure if these help  from my old Greyhound build  - 

 

OC.

[Jackson7]

 

It looks like I don't have a store near me that sells planks. Even worse, it looks like Hobby Lobby no longer carries the strong, quick-drying glue I've been using so far, and I have so little left I don't want to risk half-gluing a plank.

 

For now, I'll just have to wait on the mail. 

 

In the meantime, I trimmed the pieces of lime wood that stick out too far. Now they look far smoother.

 

 

 

[Jackson7]

I hope you all had a happy Thanksgiving and a joyful Christmas to look forward to!

 

At long last, I have my glue! Another bottle will get me through the rest of the hull.

 

But in my measurements for the next step, I discovered I have a fairly severe problem that will require some kind of drastic solution. 

 

The keel of my hull is about 2.5 millimeters lower than it should be. As a result, when I place the first 1mm-wide plank directly on the hull, there's a 1.5mm gap of exposed plywood. 

 

The best time to fix this was about fifty planks ago.

 

If I place the first plank at an angle to cover this gap, it's unsupported. Even worse, if I put it on this way, it won't fit smoothly with the rest of the hull. And all future planks I put on will have to align with it. 

 

So far, I can think of three or four solutions, but all of them seem fairly high-risk.

 

I could either:

 

1: Angle the first plank so it will cover the plywood, then hope to find some way to fit together all the following planks in a good-looking way. But I'm not sure I can build the remainder of the hull from that foundation.

 

2: I can leave the gap and try to cover it over with something else later. This likely won't look graceful, and will probably be clunky at best.

 

3: I can use some kind of glue solvent or a knife to remove the keel plank, then slice and sand the plywood until I reach the desired depth. This plan will fix the problem flawlessly if it works. But it will require a lot of skill.

 

4: I can pad the area near the keel with about 1.5mm of wood until it rises to the right level, then sand this area until it meshes smoothly into the rest of the hull. But that will require a lot of wood, might throw off the curve of the hull, and will be challenging to make symmetrical on both sides. 

 

@hamilton, @harlequin, @GrandpaPhil, I'd be glad to get your advice on what to do next.

 

 

 

[harlequin]

without a better look it is hard to tell what is going on but i would cut back the plywood keel and try to fit a piece of second planking to take its place....pin you first piece of second planking where you have it in the picture (dont glue it at this stage) so you have a line on which to work and cut out the plywood to this line and replace it with some of your second planking, then refit your first piece of second planking permanently .... 

Edited December 3, 2021 by harlequin

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Step one could be to remove the 'good wood' keel added.  Since it appears straight you could support it on a table edge (after having a fine pencil line drawn to the trim point on the plywood as Harlequin suggested), use a metal rule as a guide (with wood planking to position it just about even with the GLUE line) and make successive light cuts with a fresh Xacto blade at the glue joint to free the keel piece.  You'll need to support the hull hanging over the table edge with a stack of books or wood put on a chair before proceeding.  If you have a 'miniature' modeler's plane - or better yet, a 'low angle' hand plane - (the blade must be quite sharp) plane away the unwanted plywood until the pencil line just disappears.  As was said, the keel appears flat, so with a SHALLOW (real shallow - so test on scrap wood to produce a thin curl) blade setting, plane all the way across the plywood keel with each stroke.

 

  No plane (or planing experience)?  Then use the Xacto cutting method to cut the keel where the pencil line is to remove the 'good wood' keel WITH the offending strip of plywood attached.  Then trim off that unwanted piece from the 'good wood' keel on a working surface.  You can make sure the remaining plywood keel is flat by lightly sanding with fine grit wrapped over a long straight piece of wood as a sanding block - moving the block straight down the keel until no trace of the pencil line is seen.  The 'good wood' keel can be trued by working the cut edge against fine grit sanding paper on a flat work surface.  Re-glue the keel together and ... you've got it.

[Jackson7]

On 12/3/2021 at 9:29 AM, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Step one could be to remove the 'good wood' keel added.  Since it appears straight you could support it on a table edge (after having a fine pencil line drawn to the trim point on the plywood as Harlequin suggested), use a metal rule as a guide (with wood planking to position it just about even with the GLUE line) and make successive light cuts with a fresh Xacto blade at the glue joint to free the keel piece.  You'll need to support the hull hanging over the table edge with a stack of books or wood put on a chair before proceeding.  If you have a 'miniature' modeler's plane - or better yet, a 'low angle' hand plane - (the blade must be quite sharp) plane away the unwanted plywood until the pencil line just disappears.  As was said, the keel appears flat, so with a SHALLOW (real shallow - so test on scrap wood to produce a thin curl) blade setting, plane all the way across the plywood keel with each stroke.

 

  No plane (or planing experience)?  Then use the Xacto cutting method to cut the keel where the pencil line is to remove the 'good wood' keel WITH the offending strip of plywood attached.  Then trim off that unwanted piece from the 'good wood' keel on a working surface.  You can make sure the remaining plywood keel is flat by lightly sanding with fine grit wrapped over a long straight piece of wood as a sanding block - moving the block straight down the keel until no trace of the pencil line is seen.  The 'good wood' keel can be trued by working the cut edge against fine grit sanding paper on a flat work surface.  Re-glue the keel together and ... you've got it.

Thanks for the advice on how to do it. I don't have a plane, so I'll use the Xacto method. I look forward to telling you how it goes.