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Posted

Ahoy all! I decided to make an attempt at a build log for my Dapper Tom build.  It is my first wooden ship kit but my experience with carpentry and building plastic models, I should be able to muddle through. I have a long way to go to learn the shipwright's vernacular even though I am a retired sailor, they got rid of sail powered ships a few months before I enlisted. ;O) I started this past weekend with setting up a small table in the corner of the garage and hung 2 shop lights for lighting. I re-enforced the paper templates from the kit by gluing them with an industrial glue stick to a plastic exit sign I bought at a dollar store. I pressed them overnight between a couple of books with bottles of wine on them for weight.  They were cut out with a box cutter and straight edge and sanded to the template line with a sanding stick.  This turned out very well and allowed me to form 2/3 of the hull on Saturday and I finished the roughing out on Sunday, followed by sanding with 80/100/120/200 grit paper in successive steps. I finished off Sunday evening with some Titan Marine Primer. Hopefully I can make more progress this coming weekend. Cheers, and a tot of rum for the crew!

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Posted (edited)

Not alot of progress on the boat. I did spend some time on a few tools I found in Grandad's roll top desk I inherited. He was a carpenter, house painter and during WWII he was a marine pipefitter in the ship yard at Portland OR. They were pretty mankey and some rust but a week long soak in penetrating oil, wire wheel in a dremel, steel wool and emory paper did a good job. Still a bit stiff but should loosen up with use.

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Edited by USNCHief
Misspelled words.
Posted

Will be following with interest. 
I love that kit. It was my first Model Shipways build. Since it is of a fictitious boat, you can do anything you want to it and nobody can criticize you for being historically inaccurate.  Here’s one I finished several years ago, and two more variations on the theme in progress 

Have fun. 
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Steve

 

"If they suspect me of intelligence, I am sure it will soon blow over, ha, ha, ha!"

-- Jack Aubrey

 

Builds:

Yankee Hero, Fannie Gorham, We’re Here, Dapper Tom (x3), New Bedford Whaler, US Brig Lawrence (Niagara), Wyoming (half hull), Fra Berlanga (half hull), Gokstad Viking Ship, Kate Cory, Charles Morgan, Gjoa

Posted
20 minutes ago, Srodbro said:

Will be following with interest. 
I love that kit. It was my first Model Shipways build. Since it is of a fictitious boat, you can do anything you want to it and nobody can criticize you for being historically inaccurate.  Here’s one I finished several years ago, and two more variations on the theme in progress 

Have fun. 
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Thank you! You have a couple of very nice builds. Do you have any tips as far as stuff to watch out for or what rigging to do first?  Also, how did you drill the holes for the masts to make sure they are dead center and symmetrical?

Posted

Thanks for your kind comment. 


I approach modeling as an activity designed to be satisfactory to me, so how picky I am at the details depends on the day I am doing them. Frequently, they don’t pass muster the following day, but as another member states, “ the wood is forgiving “. 


 I initially spent hours carving, sanding, filling, sanding, filling, etc. ad naseum trying to get the hull shaped just right, tossing the whole thing into the trash, retrieving it, and continuing on another day.  In the end, I decided that wasn’t nearly as important to me as getting into the satisfaction of the rest of the build. So, my tip would be:  If it becomes a burden, it’s no longer a hobby. Also, remember that the model is an illusion. Unless you’re looking at the model from directly below ( and not many people do that) you can’t tell if the hull is exactly symmetrical. I have learned that Model Shipways solid hull blanks are machined more symmetrical than others are. 
 

This model has been around for many years and instruction sheets have been revised several times. The first model I bought I got on eBay, and it was an unbuilt kit from many years ago .. the instructions were printed on one 8 1/2 x 11 sheet, rather than the multi-page booklet that comes in the kit now. But, the plans appear the same. Consequently, there might be some instructions that don’t exactly match the plans. So, you may need to use some of your own woodworking intuition to get where you want to be. 
 

As far as getting the masts located as desired, I learned to depend less on the hole in the deck and more on adjusting the shrouds and stays … maybe make the holes a bit too big. 
 

The general rule I read about for rigging sequence is “Inboard-to-outboard and fore-to-aft. “  Belaying a line on a pin on the fife rail after the shrouds and ratlines are in place ( that is, doing all running rigging after all standing rigging) can be challenging, tho that’s what I did on my first build. On my current builds I’m experimenting with installing rigging as much as I can onto the masts and spars off-ship prior to stepping the masts into the hull, then firming up standing rigging, then tightening up on running rigging. Like I say:  I am experimenting with that process. Here’s a pic 

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We shall see how that works. Might wind up in the trash some day. 

Ok, just one more tip then I’ll return your log to you:

 

I could never get the footropes on the yards to look good using any sort of thread .. they just wouldn’t hang right. I found using fine brass wire and then carefully painting it had a much more pleasing effect. 
 

Good luck. 

Steve

 

"If they suspect me of intelligence, I am sure it will soon blow over, ha, ha, ha!"

-- Jack Aubrey

 

Builds:

Yankee Hero, Fannie Gorham, We’re Here, Dapper Tom (x3), New Bedford Whaler, US Brig Lawrence (Niagara), Wyoming (half hull), Fra Berlanga (half hull), Gokstad Viking Ship, Kate Cory, Charles Morgan, Gjoa

Posted

Progress and setbacks. I am enjoying the build, along with the frustrations but like life, its a steep learning curve. I am learning a lot, mostly its patience and what doesn't work. ;o) Got the upper section of hull planked, but dropped the boat when I was sanding the putty and snapped off the end of the stem and cracked a few planks.  Thank God wood is a little bit forgiving. Got it fixed and am happy with the repair. It got cold in the "Dungeon" (garage below the house) even here in Spain so I moved inside to my model desk till it warms back up in a few weeks. Some lessons learned:

 

1. Take your time in preparation and watch videos/ask questions. THANK YOU TO ALL WHO HAVE PROVIDED TIPS/ENCOURAGEMENT!

2. Learn to sharpen tools and change blades often. Sharp tools cut better and do not splinter the wood. Plus they cut easier and you reduce the chance of cutting a finger. Don't ask. (Should have transferred this lesson over from plastic models).

3. If you are married, sand outside, especially the hull after puttying. Trust me on this, do not go there.

4. Clean as you go.

5. Enjoy the process.

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Posted

2 Questions for the build experts:

 

1)  What do you all do for raised letters for the ship's name on the transom?

 

2) What are recommendations for inside/under the skylight?  I don't want it to look like a box sitting on the deck. It should show depth underneath to the lower deck since it has windows.

Posted

1). Raised letters on transom:  Applied a raised name board with flat letters

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2). Skylight:  On another model I wanted to be able to see down thru the hatches to the deck below. I chiseled out a portion of the hull about double the size of the hatch opening, framed the opening, added the cowelling and planked the lower deck. It turned out well with the shadows highlighting the depth. I suppose something similar could be done for a skylight. 1FECBAA4-488F-4F2B-BFA7-F68046B424FC.thumb.jpeg.9a9f6a2f730ba111ed9f8e9a31dd1e0b.jpegA3CD1957-FDBC-4390-B2D7-DDACC61E2743.thumb.jpeg.59fcb7fa0402de606561603822c6ec9b.jpeg

Steve

 

"If they suspect me of intelligence, I am sure it will soon blow over, ha, ha, ha!"

-- Jack Aubrey

 

Builds:

Yankee Hero, Fannie Gorham, We’re Here, Dapper Tom (x3), New Bedford Whaler, US Brig Lawrence (Niagara), Wyoming (half hull), Fra Berlanga (half hull), Gokstad Viking Ship, Kate Cory, Charles Morgan, Gjoa

Posted
On 1/22/2022 at 5:26 AM, USNCHief said:

Not alot of progress on the boat. I did spend some time on a few tools I found in Grandad's roll top desk I inherited. He was a carpenter, house painter and during WWII he was a marine pipefitter in the ship yard at Portland OR. They were pretty mankey and some rust but a week long soak in penetrating oil, wire wheel in a dremel, steel wool and emory paper did a good job. Still a bit stiff but should loosen up with use.

 

Chief, you're the first person I've ever heard, apart from my Scottish parents, to use the word "mankey" (I think it is actually "manky"). Some Scots in you? Regards, Ian

Posted

Last night, was the Robert Burns Dinner at Duluth’s historic Kitchi Gammi Club, complete with a pipe band, haggis, scotch whiskey, the works!  There is always a ceremonial address to the haggis and Scottish dancing.  Neither my wife nor I are Scottish (me probably not, she definitely not) but we always enjoy going anyway.  Unfortunately we have missed it the last two years- Covid.

 

Roger

Posted

I love pipe bands. The first sound of a drone starting I can feel the tingle run down my spine - must be hereditary memory, the call to grab a claymore and run to the action.

 

Took the kids to Scotland and the Edinburgh tattoo a few years back. When the massed pipes marched out across the drawbridge and fanned out along the parade ground, my son turned to me and said, "This is cool!" 🙂

Posted

Work was less than accommodating this past week so the family took a day trip to Malaga. Trying to make some progress today and will post photos of transom and boarding ladder steps. The instruction book lack a bit of information so I bounce back and forth between the book, sheet plans and parts list sheets. I discovered a part call out for a "Tack Boomkin" but it is not shown anywhere in the instructions or on the plan sheets. Can someone assist please?

Posted (edited)

Boomkins for foresail tacks. Circled in green. Not sure how I decided on size shape or location, probably from a different model, but seems to work. 
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It’s hidden pretty well on the plans 05857D4F-6E83-40E5-847A-1A16340B1E33.thumb.jpeg.689f6e93e67e504d80c04c19f71d0776.jpeg

Edited by Srodbro
Added pic of plans.

Steve

 

"If they suspect me of intelligence, I am sure it will soon blow over, ha, ha, ha!"

-- Jack Aubrey

 

Builds:

Yankee Hero, Fannie Gorham, We’re Here, Dapper Tom (x3), New Bedford Whaler, US Brig Lawrence (Niagara), Wyoming (half hull), Fra Berlanga (half hull), Gokstad Viking Ship, Kate Cory, Charles Morgan, Gjoa

Posted

I see where the line is secured at the pin rail on a belaying pin, through the block on the boomkin, then up through another block on the end of the yard and down, but I must apologize I cannot see where it finishes.

Posted

Line ( tack) terminates on the boomkins, outboard of the block. I erroneously terminated mine inboard of the block. 

Steve

 

"If they suspect me of intelligence, I am sure it will soon blow over, ha, ha, ha!"

-- Jack Aubrey

 

Builds:

Yankee Hero, Fannie Gorham, We’re Here, Dapper Tom (x3), New Bedford Whaler, US Brig Lawrence (Niagara), Wyoming (half hull), Fra Berlanga (half hull), Gokstad Viking Ship, Kate Cory, Charles Morgan, Gjoa

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Finally a bit more progress on the ship. The Captain's cabin with the checker board "carpet" was all done on Sunday. An open map with dividers, a rolled map and a tankard on the table. You can't see it very well but the Captain's tankard on the corner of the table is full of Port. Paintings, maps and flags are on the cabin bulkheads. 1812 US and since this is a "Baltimore Clipper" the Maryland flag. The skylight will allow a look down into the cabin. I am cheating a bit by using a scribed sheet for the deck. I just didn't feel like doing all of the planking on this one. I borrowed color pencils and a .5 archival pen from my daughter Bronwyn, who is an artist, to add the seams and color a few planks so it didn't look so monochrome. The Transom and Taffrail gave me fits and I had to re-do them. Twice. I need more practice on edge bending. Sorry some of the photos are off.

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