Chaperon by John Gummersall - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48

[bobandlucy]

Looking really nice, John!

[mbp521]

On 1/15/2023 at 5:06 PM, John Gummersall said:

Instructions call to mount the bull rails on the first two support posts in the boiler room.    Problem is, even though the boiler support structure is inside the support structure, the smoke stack protrudes outside the structure.   So bull rails need to be attached to the 2nd/3rd supports posts. 

John, you absolutely got it right. I ran into the same issue with my build and placed them on the 2nd & 3rd posts for that same reason.
 

Also good thinking on reinforcing the boiler deck, a decision you will not regret. I went as far as using scrap pieces inside of the walls as well to keep them even at the tops and bottoms since the walls were so long and flexible. It added a lot of stability to the structure. 
 

She is really coming along nicely. 
 

-Brian

[John Gummersall]

Brian and Cathead,

 

I mis-quoted earlier when I said the instructions called for mounting the bull rails on the 1st two posts.   In reality the instructions just said to "mount the bull rails" - do not really say where to mount them.    I got the idea of the 1st two posts from looking at diagram #2 .

 

Actually diagram #2 is old and really needs to be updated.   Diagram #2 not only shows the bull rails mounted incorrectly(red highlight), it also shows part 39A extending forward (green highlight).  Looking back at earlier build logs it was discovered (and reported to Model Expo) that 39A had to be trimmed back due to interference with the smoke stack covers.   Model Expo took note of the exception and updated the instructions with the following comments.

 

    Also note that parts 39A P/S will have to be cut away at the forward ends where they are in the way of the smoke stacks.

 

They did not update the fact that that the smoke stack covers also interfered with the bull rails causing them to be mounted farther back than on the diagram.   

Anyway, not a big deal,  but for newbie's like myself that foolishly follow the instructions/diagrams, I thought I would point this out.    Bull rails do not get mounted on the  1st two posts due to interference with the smoke stack covers

 

 

 

 

Edited January 18, 2023 by John Gummersall

[mbp521]

Speaking of following instructions, this conversation reminded me of another area of where the instructions are wrong and I didn't realize it until it was too late. When you get to Stage 4, the instructions show to mount the bull rail braces, part 48, to the stationaries with the opening outboard and placing the bull rails from the outboard side..

 

To be historically accurate, they were actually mounted the other way around to where the bull rails could be installed from the inboard side. I found this out later on when I was studying some of the contemporary photos of the boat. In the below photo, the Chaperon is on the left. If you zoom in to the starboard side where the bull rails are mounted you can just make out the framework of the braces that show them mounted this way (I thought I had a better picture of this, but I can't seem to find it right now). It would also make sense that they be installed from the inboard side, due to the fact that if a person or livestock were to lean against, or run into them they could knock the rails out of place and fall overboard.

 

-Brian

[John Gummersall]

Brian,

 

Thanks for that heads up....  You are correct.... if the bull rails were installed as indicated in the instructions it would be rather difficult for workers to take them up and down from onboard the ship.   When I get to that stage I will mount them as you suggest...

[John Gummersall]

Finally started the planking of the boiler deck....   I hate deck planking,,,, I really like the look, but I hate doing it.   Way to tedious and the process gets old pretty fast.   As before I used the 1,3,5,2,4 planking pattern.

 

 

 

Since deck planking is not fun enough I decided to take a break from planking and have even more fun with the  1/32" square battens on the boiler deck walls.    Talk about getting old fast,,, wow..

 

Prior to planking I painted the walls just to get the first few coats on them.  I then added the 1/32" square battens.   After that I will just air brush to put on the final coats.    Probably could have just waiting until all battens were installed, but I figured it would be easier this way.    Once all is painted I will add the windows/doors that were painted earlier.    Instructions call to sand the 1/32" battens down to 1/64" to look more realistic.   When I first read that I thought that was some sort of designer joke, as no way (at my skill level) would I be able to do that.   But when you think about it, after the battens are glued into place, a sanding stick easily trims them down to look more realistic.

 

Note in the stern wall section the battens (in red) do not go all the  way to the top.   This is to allow for the deck trim (added later) to not interfere with the battens.

 

 

In order to get a better connection between the side and bow sections, I added a piece of scrap wood.   I plan to connect the side and bow sections together and then put the structure onto the boat.  If I glued the pieces to the hull separately, I have a feeling that joint would not go together too well.

 

 

Looking ahead I noticed a little issue,,,,  with next boiler deck ceiling (Hurricane deck floor).   What is wrong with this picture?    

 

Seems to be an issue with the smoke stack hole  on part 123S.   🙂    Not a big deal, it will be awhile before I get to that point.   I opened a ticket with Model Shipways and I am sure a new part will be here well before I need it.

 

[mbp521]

All of those battens were indeed a tedious process, but it looks like you managed your way through it very nicely while keeping your sanity. 😁 

 

Sure look like someone was having an off day when they cut the hurricane deck piece out. It was probably a Friday and they were ready to go take in the South Florida night life, or maybe it was Monday after too much of the South Florida night life. 🙃 Either way ME is usually pretty good about getting replacement parts out quick.

 

Looking good!

 

-Brian

 

[John Gummersall]

As planking proceeds I guess it is time to air a little dirty laundry....

 

In regards to the boiler deck, the instructions call to glue the four pieces that make up the boiler deck into one solid piece and then attach it to the hull.   That part is good... problem is since I was planning on planking the deck I felt it would be best to plank it after it was attached to the hull.   My thinking at the time was that the extra glue and planking might make the deck stiffer and harder to attached to the hull.   

 

There are two problem with that logic...  

 

First issue is that since the vertical stationaries have not been attached yet, there is a lot of boiler decking in the front half of the boat without much support.   And 1/16" planking being what it is,,,,, it could easily break when applying the planking if too much pressure is applied to the planks

Ask me how I know this   🙂

 

You can see from the picture below where a little too much much pressure was applied.... calling for a repair job.  What you can not see is all the tears..

 

 

The second issue with planking the deck after it is applied to the hull is also related to the lack of support on the deck.   That being the glue as it dries tends to bend the decking  (that is not supported) upward.    I don't have a picture of it, but with the decking curved up on both sides, the hull looked like a bird flying.    Thus repair job #2 comes into play.     Basically I wetted the boards that needed to be bent back into shape and added some (shall we say) persuasion to hold them down.   To insure they boards did not bend too far down there are some 3/16"x3/16" temporary support posts applied along the side of the hull.   They are not glued and just held in place by the pressure of the "persuasion".

Once the deck dry they will easily be removed.   Disaster averted..

 

Had the same issue with a stern section but got creative with a clamp for the "persuasion".

 

 

So,,,, if you plan to plank the deck I would suggest you plank the deck before it is attached to the hull.   The planks will tend to bend the deck, but at least you will have a flat surface to add some weight to hold the decking down until the glue dries.   And in reality the extra 1/32" planking will not add that much stiffness to the deck and will certainly be easier than trying to deal with split and bent decking if you plank after the deck is attached to the hull.    Dumb you get early,,,, smart you get late  🙂

 

Tomorrow I will do the same process to the other side of the boiler deck

[Cathead]

Ouch, that’s scary! Glad to see you figured out a fix. Deck itself looks nice.

[mbp521]

Glad to see you were able to avoid a major disaster with that decking. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t shed a tear or two while narrowly avoiding disaster on any of my builds. But you learn from experience. Fantastic recovery though, deck is looking great. 
 

-Brian

[John Gummersall]

It has been some time (to say the least) since I last posted.    Been out of town and away from the shipyard.   I was able to take a few part with me to work on remotely.    Was not able to take the hull due to it's size.   

 

Completed the boiler deck structure walls.   Not a lot to say about this as it is pretty straight foreword, but very very repetitive.     You will go crazy with all those 1/32" vertical pieces on the walls and then sanding them down to 1/64".   After the vertical pieces were stalled, the walls were air brushed white.    Afterward the red doors were attached with door knobs.

 

 

Next took on the two boiler deck stairs.    The forward stairs are is the larger on the and smaller steps goes on the aft starboard side.    Only issue I had here was the fact that the step "runs" (on both sets of stairs) were a little short.  Not sure it it was to do lack to skill on my part (in assembling the stairs) or were not sized right at the factory.   Either way, they could not be used or there would have been a small gap in each step.  There is plenty of 1/16" wood supplied with the kit and it was easy just to make new "run" steps and use those instead of the supplied ones.    Still need some touchup paint, but they are more or less ready.

 

 

Finally took on the Pilot House.    This also is pretty foreword.   I ordered a 1/48 scale pot belly stove and ships wheel to add a little more detail, but they have yet to arrive.    As for the window, I know some have split the windows to simulate sliding windows.   Not sure I have the skill to do that.    I tried to simulate that by holding up one window over the other to see what that looked like but I just could not get it to look very good.     I may try again when I get to the ship yard, but at this time I am leaning just to use the whole windows.    As for the foreword window, that one will remain open.   Still need some touch up paint when I get back.

 

View of the foreword side

 

 

Back side view

 

 

View with Pilot House top on top.   Not painted yet, just wanted to see what it would look like  🙂

 

On the topic, I am still on the fence as to the covering for the boiler deck, Skylight, Texas, and Pilot House.    Kit calls just to paint it  flat black to simulate tar paper.    I know others have used silk span strips to better simulate tar paper, but I am having trouble locating some silk span.    I found some at BlueJacket Ship Crafters, but it is $6.00 a sheet with $6.00 shipping.    Not sure I want to go down that road, but I admit it would look much better than just flat black paint.     Have to think on that some.

 

And below are the windows mentioned above.   At this time they just have one coat of while paint.   Again an airbrush makes this task really easy to get a smooth finish

Edited April 19, 2023 by John Gummersall

[mcb]

Nice, neat work,

As for roof paper, I have, in the past, used facial tissue AKA 'Kleenex' cut into 3' wide strips (or whichever width is appropriate for your era) and simply painted it on the roof surface with, usually, flat black. it should have more a slightly pronounced texture than silkspan.

This works out in 1:160 scale for my eyes. I think it would work in 1:48.

 

Good Luck,

mcb

[Cathead]

Nice to see you back! I've simulated tar paper roofing before using strips of masking tape laid over thin wood glue. It has a nice rough texture, holds up well, is much easier to apply than silkspan or tissue, and is very affordable. Seems like it would work especially well in 1:48. Easy to give it a try on some scrap wood to see what you think.

[John Gummersall]

MCB and Cathead,

 

Thanks for the suggestions....   I appreciate the suggestions.  I really did not want to just paint the deck black...   I will give both of your methods a try on some scrap wood and see what I can do with it.

 

[mbp521]

Glad to see you back at it John. Everything is looking good. Those battens are certainly tedious work, Are you planning to do any interior details on the pilot house?

 

-Brian

[John Gummersall]

Started working on the stationaries... Stationary should extend above the boiler deck floor by 1/16"...   In my case I felt it easier to make a little jig to insure they were all consistent.  Below shows the jig.   It really made it easier.   Just placed the jig atop each stationary hole and inserted the stationary from the bottom until it hit the top if the jig.    Also depicted in the below shots are the other jigs I used to insure equal spacing between the main and boiler deck.     I would strongly suggest something like them.   They take all the sport out of trying to insure a level deck.

 

 

 

On to the Texas.    Instructions here call to do something similar to what was done with the boiler deck walls.   Make a jig and slightly score the etched marks to make bending them.     It also says not to wet them due to the wall would end up cupped in the drying process.  With my skill,,,,, no way was I going to be successful scoring those walls and bending them into the jig without breaking them.   I more skilled modeler could do it, but not me.    Instead I really needed to soak the walls to make those bends, but did not want the cupping effect.    The cupping effect comes because the jig they suggest using only supports the bend in three places.   A full jig that supported the entire bend would prevent the cupping effect.

 

I found that a small juice can is very close to the proper bend that is required for these walls, and fully supports the entire wall over the bend.    Thus I was able to soak the walls, bend them around the juice can, and let dry.    The additional pieces of wood help support the wall over the bend.

 

 

 

End result is very close to the actual bend required.

 

At that point you can briefly soak the wall section and then use the suggested jig to get the required bend.    Since the original bend was very close to the required size, the second bend in the jig has far less stress on the wood and thus not cupping as it dries.

 

 

 

End result is a pretty good bend and way better than I could have done it by scoring the walls.

Note I have also attached the 3/16x3/16 wood strips around the top of the Texas.    I really liked them vs the suggested 1/16x1/16 strips.    Much for forgiving and give a great gluing surface..

 

Since the Texas is a curved structure, one long strip will not do it.   You have to break them into smaller pieces to more conform to the Texas curved top.

 

I attached this picture just to show once again that "you can never have enough clamps"    🙂

 

Here is a fun fact that a more experienced modeler would know (obviously not me).   Never assume the instructions or diagrams are correct.   Always verify   🙂

 

Below is a picture the the Skylight roof showing where the Texas is to be located.     Foolishly thinking the etching was correct I happily glued the 3/16 square strips on to it in preparation for installing the Texas.      Note below the etching is not in the center of the Skylight roof.   After the strips were dry and I dry fitted the Texas, the problem was very obvious.   The etching is 10mm from the port side and 7mm from the starboard side.     Thus, time for the alcohol and pry up the strips and re-center the Texas location.    Maybe it is just my model, but please verify before you glue down the strips

 

 

[Cathead]

That's a cool jig, I may copy that! I've also used the "hunt for a household item with the right curve" approach, many times. Great progress. It's frustrating when instructions are wrong, hope the fix goes smoothly.

[John Gummersall]

Earlier I was commenting on how I was in a quandary over the simulated tar paper for the Hurricane Deck, Skylight Roof, Texas Roof, and Pilot House Roof.   Instructions call just to paint them all black, but others have commented that cutting silk span in strips and painting them black gave a realistic looks of tar paper.  No way at my skill level was I going to be able to make strips of silk span look anything like tar paper.    Beside, silk span seem to be really hard to find and very expensive.

 

Cathead had suggested using overlapped masking tape strips and painting them black.    That sounded like a neat idea and one that I could probably manage.   Below is my attempt at applying the masking tape strips.

 

 If you look closely you will see the overlapped strips simulating the tar paper seams.   Once they are painted black I think they will be a good simulation of tar paper strips

 

Hurricane Deck  

 

 

Skylight Roof with Texas dry fitted.

 

 

Texas Roof - You can see the outline where the Pilot house will be located

 

 

Pilot House Roof

 

 

Tomorrow I will get out the spray gun and a lot of black paint and spray away....

 

 

[yvesvidal]

3 hours ago, John Gummersall said:

 No way at my skill level was I going to be able to make strips of silk span look anything like tar paper.    Beside, silk span seem to be really hard to find and very expensive.

 

How about using the so called silk paper used to wrap gifts or fill up gift bags? Once painted, it should be quite realistic.

 

Yves

[mbp521]

Looking good John!
 

I definitely remember those tight bends on the Texas deck being quite the pain, but you did a great job using household materials to get them nice and clean. 
 

A cheaper alternative to silkspan, as Yves suggested, is regular tissue paper and ModgePodge. I used this method on my Cairo for the deck structure roofs. I painted the ModgePodge on the wood, then laid down the tissue paper strips, overlapping them just slightly. With each strip I painted on a thin line of ModgePodge at the seams and let it stick out a bit to simulate the tar seeping from under the tarpaper. The results were very convincing since the ModgePodge leaves a little bit more of a shinier finish than the tissue paper when painted. I can’t take credit for the method I used though, I borrowed it from @kurtvd19 who had suggested it on my Chaperon build. 
 

-Brian

Edited August 3, 2023 by mbp521

[John Gummersall]

I appreciate the suggestions of "silk paper used to wrap gifts" and " regular tissue paper and ModgePodge", but I think at this time I am pretty well committed to masking tape.   Below are the results after painting them a matte black.    After overlapping the tape I sprayed from the opposite side of the wrapped tape to more show the seams...   Not real sure I like the result as the seams show up as a lighter color than the black...  Not a realistic look for tar seams, but I may leave it vs applying another coat of black and cover up the seams...    

 

 

 

Once piece of advice for novices' like my self...  If you do cover the hurricane deck flooring with something, before you mount it on the main deck structure, be sure to verify all the holes in the deck have been opened up to later accept the pieces that will be going through them.    Much easier now before you glue down the deck ceiling 

 

In preparation for laying the hurricane deck flooring I wanted to double check the alignment of all the posts and stairs that need to line up.    In doing so I noticed the back stairs do not exactly line up with the wall etching.   From the plans the stairs are supposed to line up against the wall - thus the etchings.   When I first put on the vertical strips on the walls I assumed all was good and followed the lines.   After seeing about a 1/2" gap between the stairs and wall I decided that needed to change.    Others have mentioned this little fact, but I forgot.   Since there is about a 1/2" gap that probably was wide enough for a person to slip by, so rather than extend the stair sides to meet the wall I decided to add the strips over the stairs etching in the wall.

 

In the below picture, it shows the remains of the five partial strips that originally were on the wall.   This was in preparation for adding new full strips.

 

 

Below shows the new strips added.   I probably should have closed up the etching before attaching the strips, and it would have been  a lot easier, but closing that gap with a little extra paint can be done now too.

Moral of this lesson is be sure to check the back stairs before you lay the hurricane deck flooring and make a decision as to what you want to do about the gap

 

With all in place the boiler deck structures can now be attached to top of the main deck.   Below are a few pictures of the final result

 

One thing to note, on some of the raw corners I added some right angle styrene pieces to cover up the raw corner.   I have some of them marked below with circles.  

 

Just noticed I have some extra glue showing,,,, need to break out the paint and fine brush  🙂

 

 

 

[John Gummersall]

On to the outer bull rails..  These are 1/32" x 3/32" boards mounted on both the port and starboard side of the first nine stationaries. There are 80 of them - 40 on each side.  The instructions call to mount the bull rails to parts 48 (bull rail brackets) mounted on on both sides of the stationaries on each side of the boat - "facing outward"..   As mbp521 (Brian) mentioned earlier,  this realistically is backwards.   The bull rails are intended for the crew to be able to temporarily add or remove them to allow for easier loading or unloading cargo.   Problem is with them facing outward there is no easy way for the crew (on board) to adjust them.     Realistically the bull rails should be mounted facing inward.  That way the crew can easily add or remove the rails as needed.

 

 

Having said that, while more realistic, mounting the bull rails from the inside is easier said then done.    There are five rows of bull rails and by the time you get to the 5th row there is very little room for big fingers to easily put in the rails.    It can be done, but expect to have some level of frustration putting in these 80 bull rails - and of course knocking some out as you go  🙂

 

Below is my attempt at the bull rails

 

 

Edited September 29, 2023 by John Gummersall

[mbp521]

Nicely done John! Your frustration and patience paid off. They definitely look more realistic mounted on the correct side of the stationeries. 
 

-Brian

[John Gummersall]

Brian,

It was frustrating at times and very monotonous putting in 80 planks, but looking at the final product, the bull rails really do look better mounted inward. 

[mbp521]

1 hour ago, John Gummersall said:

It was frustrating at times and very monotonous putting in 80 planks,

Agreed! But not near as monotonous as all those battens on the Boiler and Texas deck cabin walls. 😁

 

-Brian

[John Gummersall]

Brian,,,,

 

I mis-spoke.....    You are so right,,,, Putting the bull rails up are nothing compared to the battens on the Boiler deck structure ....   I have not had that (shall we say) "fun" with the Texas deck cabin walls yet....   Plan to have that "fun" next week....   At least there are not as many on the Texas deck cabin walls as the Boiler deck structure.

[mbp521]

12 hours ago, John Gummersall said:

(shall we say) "fun"

That’s one way to put it. 😁. Through all the monotony, the end result is well worth it. 
 

-Brian

[John Gummersall]

Onward and upward...  At long last the hurricane deck is finally ready to glue.   All holes have been enlarged and ready to accept the corresponding parts that come next.  

As for the simulated tar paper strips, I think the masking tape idea worked out OK.   As indicated earlier, at my skill level I do not think I could have pulled off silk span or tissue paper methods.

 

 

A couple of points for those of us less skilled,,,,

 

The instructions call to glue the forward stairs, from the boiler deck to the hurricane deck before gluing down the hurricane deck.  In my opinion, no way would I be able to pull that off and have the stairs align properly with the hurricane deck.   If those stairs were glued down prior to the hurricane deck, with all the alignment (shall we say) "fun" lining up the hurricane deck with the stationaries, it would be too much to hope to assume those stairs would be in the correct position.   Instead, since the hurricane deck overhangs the boiler deck, will be an easy effort to just slip in the forward stairs after the hurricane deck is glued down and before the stationaries are inserted.

 

Below is a show showing plenty of room to insert the stairs and secure them down to the proper size prior to the stationaries.

 

 

 

 

Same issue with the boiler deck back wall.  Instructions call to glue down the back boiler deck wall when you glue down the boiler deck structure. 

 

In the below picture, neither the back wall or hurricane deck have been glued down.   As you can see, the edge of the back wall should align with the last stationery.   In theory, if you were every accurate with the bending of this wall, it will align with the last stationaries.   But if that bend was not exact (due to lack of skill of the builder), there will be an issue aligning with the last stationaries.     Even if you bends were exact, after aligning the hurricane deck over the boiler deck, the back wall my not align with stationary.  However, if you do not glue down the back wall until after the hurricane deck is aligned, then you can fudge a little to make the wall edges align with the last stationary.   In my case there was fudging involved...   

 

Again,,,, these last two issue are only for us less skilled builders  🙂

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a picture of the hurricane deck being glued down with back wall open.   After the glue dries, the back wall will be inserted similar to the forward stairs mentioned earlier

 

Time to glue and pile on the weight.. everything including the kitchen sink...   That coffee can is filled with water to add a little more weight.

Hope is does not leak, or there will be a lot of tears,,,,  

 

 

 

Edited October 10, 2023 by John Gummersall

[Cathead]

Looks great all around!

[mbp521]

That’s quite the unique load she’s carrying. A far cry from the normal cotton bales. 😁

 

The masking tape tarpaper turned out great! It’s hard to tell from the pictures, but did you leave the scribe lines for the skylight visible through the tape? 
 

-Brian