HMS Bounty’s Jolly Boat by Ken_2 – FINISHED - Artesania Latina – 1:25

[Peanut6]

Ken,   

 

The key, IMHO, is that you've found a method that works for you.  I believe/hope you'll be as surprised as I was when you start working the hull with some sandpaper and find how things aren't nearly as "questionable" as you might be thinking at the moment.  Trimming the plank ends at the bow was an ordeal for me, I was so afraid of taking too much off or getting my line crooked and/or slanted.  I can't tell you how many times I used the bow stem to guide me in finding out where I needed to take just a sliver off.    

[Ken_2]

Me too, Kev.  File, fit, repeat multiple times. I used superglue to install the bow piece, since I did not want to mess up the planks when taking it off.  So, I was committed to a one-time install.  But I used wood glue for the remaining pieces, which are drying now.  There are small gaps here and there, which I may eventually cover with filler - depending.

[Ken_2]

I thought the planks had been sanded smooth, but from the following pictures, I see many “non-smooth” features, mainly highlighted by the lighting.  So, I will spend a little more time sanding.

As well, I think now is the time to paint the hull before I go further.

[Peanut6]

Sand, fill, sand, fill, repeat.  IMHO, it's looking far better than mine did at this stage, nice job.  Since your painting your hull, you won't run into the issues I did since I stained mine (that whole stainable filler issue).  If you were reading my build log, I'm guessing you may have missed the section where I talked about my problems with the planking to transom post transition.  The lip you're showing in the last picture was a major problem for me.  Because I don't have magic metal bending skills nor have about 8 hands to hold everything in place, getting the gudgeons to stay in the right place for pilot hole marking was a beast and I still really messed mine up even after I sanded things down.  But the final error was still on me after getting the desired material transitioning/condition, if you know what I mean.  I tried to explain my FUBAR in my build log.  Please give it a read and don't hesitate to ask for any clarification.  I would hate for you, or anybody, to go thru what I did.     

[Ken_2]

I removed a duplicate post

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 22, 2022 by Ken_2
I removed a duplicate post

[Ken_2]

I filled a few gaps with filler and sanded again.  Rather than paint the top deck, I have decided to stain it.  It would have been better to address the color of the interior planking and frames before I installed the deck and seats, but it is what it is.  So, I performed an experiment on some scrape wood. 

·       I applied 2 coats of a clear matte finish to some sample wood (which hardly did anything to the color).

·       I then tested a tan “wood finish” acrylic paint (which only put a tan coating down and did not improve the look)

·       Next I used a clear polyurethane finish, which provided some color but was not as good as the last test).

·       Lastly, I applied a coat of minwax Golden Oak semi-transparent wood stain.  This is what I have selected for the mahogany wood, seats, and deck.  I applied this to another set of sample wood and wiped it off quickly.  This provides a color effect that is light but has a good color accent.  In another test, I diluted the stain with mineral spirits.  I liked the “full strength” stain on the mahogany, but the bass wood looked better using a 1 part mineral spirits to 2 parts stain on the seats and deck.

I will not attempt the interior planks nor frames, as I think the effort to the stain or paint these while assembled will be time consuming, risks staining wood where I do not want it, and the overall effect of unpainted surfaces on the boat interior hopefully, will be minimal.

[Ken_2]

Now that I have selected the decking finish, I spent time on selecting a color scheme for the hull.  I found several references describing which colors were used in the time frame of this boat, and I looked at photos and examples of other boats.  I could not make up my mind on what I wanted.  So, I bought a color wheel which shows complimentary colors.  Eventually I just guessed at a color scheme I liked and purchased some paints.

Now that I have a plan for the top deck and hull color scheme, I decided to seal the hull before I proceed further.  This will help me decide if I have the right paint, tools and will refresh my painting skills.  I may color both sides of the top plank I have yet to install, so I figured it would be easier to shape the wood, cut the oar locks, and seal the top plank while off of the boat.

I used a Tamiya surface primer out of a rattle can (spray cans).  This has always given me a good base layer for brushing or airbrushing my other boats.  But the propellant for these cans is really noxious.  This is the main reason for building my spray booth with an external exhaust vent through the window.  This booth also provides a more controlled environment than an open garage, especially in the winter.  My 200 CFM fan evacuates the fumes from airbrushing enamel paints quite well, but it struggles with the rattle cans (spray cans).  So, I reduced the size of the opening of the spray booth to increase the draw which achieved no smells in the garage.

[Ken_2]

Once the primer was dry, I took the boat upstairs in better lighting, and found that my hull was not as smooth as I thought.  The black lines in the following first photo are shadows from the raised ridges between planks (not smooth).  So, I sanded again, outside, with 150, 220, and then 400 grit, the result in the following second photo.  The low spots on the wood remained covered with sealer, while the high spots were sanded down to bare wood.  Once I re-determined it was smoother, I sprayed sealer on again.  There are still some indications of it not being perfectly smooth (grey shadows).  I’m not sure when enough is enough.  These latest indications are mostly found in a bright light and especially noticeable when looking from the keel up towards the deck.  So, I am hoping that 2-3 coats of paint will partially smooth these ridges, and they be less noticeable on the final stand, since the viewers will have a top down look.  If this is not good enough, I will know better for my next boat.

[Ken_2]

So far, I have abandoned the kit planks and spiled my own planks to have a “smooth hull”.  I have selected a color scheme and practiced with a partial paint job.  Next I will bend the top plank, paint it, install it, and paint the hull and interior.  I am sure the hull will require some touch up work, but after that, I should be complete with the hull.  Hooray.

[Peanut6]

Looking good Ken, be sure that you leave bare wood to bare wood interface when installing the top plank.  You want the glue, assuming your using PVA, to be able to leach into the wood for a stronger bond.  

[Ken_2]

It took me a long time to find the colors I eventually selected.  These are different than I originally imagined, but are historic marine colors, hopefully found in the period of the Bounty.  In addition, all that I read says grey goes with everything.  So, I have experimented by using these colors, and now that I have painted the boat, I will have years to look at it.  Over time, I will evaluate these colors to see if I still like them.  But for now – I do.

I wanted to purchase paint from the local stores so I could see the colors.  I have experience with using Enamel paints but there was a limited selection of flat enamel colors (the stores said the poor selection was a result of a supplier sourcing problem).  I considered switching over to using an acrylic paint, but I decided not to at this time.  Using acrylic paint would be a significant effort on my part (different thinner, paint cleaner, mixture ratios, etc.  Plus, I would need to conduct more experiments with painting and evaluating the resultant colors.)  

Once I had the colors “in hand” the next thing was to figure out where the water line will be.  As shown in the photos below, I used a stationary pencil and rotated the boat around.  The trick was figuring out if things were level and stayed level while drawing.  After this, I used a laser level to confirm the water line.  Then I masked off the bottom part and the interior and airbrushed the top part of the hull flat Grey.  When dry, I masked off the interior and the top part and airbrushed the bottom flat white.  Next, I used a process from my recent build of the “Spay”, and masked off an area for the flat Black water line.  As well, I airbrushed grey on the top bulwarks (sides and stern planks), and blue on the side bulwarks.

Once all the paint was complete and dry, I glued the bulwarks to the assembly.  I still have a little glue showing and a few paint anomalies that I need to clean up, but I will do this at the end after everything else is completed.  I think I will deal with the rudder next.

[Ken_2]

I started the rudder assembly by looking at Duanelaker’s example found in his build log.  Thanks David.  Your pictures are worth more than a 1,000 words!

I found it difficult to bend these straps such that they mount flush with the rudder and stern as shown in the instructions.  Bending and working these seemed to leave wrinkles and scratches.  When I decided the straps were shaped adequately, I polished them with my Dremel.  After the fact, I bought a pair of nylon jawed pliers which really helped with the remaining brass bending and would have been the tool to use for these rudder straps.

 

These brackets are ready to install on the rudder and boat, but I will wait until the last minute (I think just before the masts are ready to install).  Handling the boat while the rudder is installed seems like a good way for me to damage the rudder assembly. 

 

I also cut the bulwarks for the oars, and repainted the freshly cut wood, installed the thwart brackets, and cut and stained the stern plank.  I bought some 1/8 in dowels for the oars, since there were no spare dowels provided in the kit.  I found that the new $1.98 - 36” dowel I purchased was superior to the junk provided in the kit.  I sanded and painted the oar blades.  I painted the bucket, painted the axe, bent the mast truss reinforcement, and cut a tiller bar for the rudder.

 

Once I have installed all of these, It will be time to step the mast, rig the spars, sails, and sheets.  I have a feeling this sounds easier than it will be!

[Peanut6]

Looks like you'll be passing me by pretty soon, good for you.  How are you planning on securing the mast truss reinforcements?  I didn't have confidence using adhesive alone so I added another bend to go under the thwart on the other side.  I had just enough tension in the setup to hold things in place and ran CA on the underside of the thwart at the wood/metal interface.  Seems to be holding up nicely for me . . . . so far.  

[Ken_2]

Funny you should ask, Kev.  I just had one pop off!  I have one hook (bend in the brass strip) that faces towards the stern.  I used CA glue between the brass and the rear facing mast reinforcement (items 25 and 26).  As well, I placed CA under the strap in the front (both dabs are intended to be under the strap out of sight - intended).  I just carved off the old glue and re-glued the offending strap back on.  I am thinking I stressed the straps while "messing" with the mast.  If one pops off again, I will do as you have done and bend two more straps, a bit longer and both with hooks.  I think I will have access do this if needed, even after all is installed.

Ken

[Peanut6]

I think you'll be able to sneak in even after it's all done.  I don't recall if I went into my reasoning as to why I shaped the reinforcements the way I did in my build log, with my earlier experience gluing the brass to wood I saw it being a problem getting them to stay on.  I underbent my truss ever so slightly, leaving a very small gap between each leg and the wood reinforcement under the thwart.  I could rock the truss to one side and slip the brass reinforcement over it, then push the other leg down enough to get the other brass reinforcement over that tab.  There was just enough pressure/tension of the brass reinforcements against the truss everything stayed in place surprising well.  I CA'd the underside of the thwart like crazy.  All is holding fast and no visible adhesive to be seen.  Hope you don't have to go that route but if you do I think my method is a strong option for you.

[Ken_2]

My next steps were to install the rudder, the mainsheet block, the axe, bowsprit supports, and chainplates.  It took a while to get the rudder installed.  I see I still need to improve my skills at working with brass rudder straps.  I will leave the tiller off until last, so it won’t get knocked off a dozen times during boat assembly.  Next, I glued the mainsheet block onto the deck, and then dry-fit the tiller in place.  This is where I noticed that the sheets for the mainsail would interfere with the tiller operation.  So, I had to either shorten the tiller, move the mainsheet block forward, or install a traveler bar.  I choose to install the bar, as I had seen these in other boats.  I installed the axe, mast truss reinforcements, and the fore and aft bowsprit supports.  I added blocks and those cleat looking things to the mast.

 

Now, to rig the mast.  I found several YouTube videos about Rigging the Shrouds, and about tying deadeyes.  As I worked my way through what to do, I looked at other boats, I decided I do not like the cotton thread provided in the kit, and I decided to use some very nice leftover 0.75 mm rope from another kit.  But the provided deadeyes are too small for this larger rope.  I ordered new, smaller lines from “Ships of scale”, and 4 mm and 5 mm deadeyes from Model Shipways.

 

While I waited for parts, I shifted to assembling the oars, bucket, and anchor tub.  I will have to retouch the paint job on the bucket and tub for the anchor line at a later date.  Next, I focused on the “chainplates”.  The little brass parts (# 65) that are provided are really a poor representation of how the shrouds should be attached to the side of the boat.  We need 4 of these and they provided - just 4.  No spares for these tiny parts – wow.  I am having fun building this boat and I’m trying to say within the kit provided parts, but some of the kit parts are rather weak.  I assembled two of the chainplate and deadeye assemblies, and I found that the knot I used between the “so-called chainplate” and thread, it caused the deadeye to turn 90 degrees to what I wanted.  So, I disassembled the two chainplates and had to figure out what other another knot to use.  I elected to use a half hitch knot on the backside of the brass thing, along with a touch of glue.

 

Since the deadeyes arrived a week before my smaller/thinner line was due to come, I will start rigging the mast now using my existing 0.75mm rope and new 5 mm deadeyes for the forestays and shrouds.  I looked at several YouTube videos on how others attach the shrouds.  All of these videos were for 3 masted boats.  But I liked the techniques and thought it would be good practice.  First, I seized about 3 cm in the center of the shroud, the part that will be going around the mast.  Then I wrapped the center of line (the seized part) around the mast and again seized the two lines together at the mast (see pictures below).  For seizing, I only have sewing thread.  I used bees wax on the thread, but thread was a bit thin, and still was fuzzy, so it doesn't look as good as seen on YouTube, but I'm happy with it.

[Ken_2]

The rigging is done for now.  On to the sails.

[ccoyle]

Looking very neat!

[allanyed]

Your launch is looking very nice!  I realize it is a couple weeks late, but thought you and others that are building ships' boats would find the following from David Steel of interest when it comes to making oars.  For example, a 23 foot launch such as that from the Bounty would have oars at or a bit longer than 20 feet.  www.thebigrow.com/?p=659#more-659   Other pertinent dimensions can also be seen for the loom, handle, blade, etc.

 

Some other interesting information such as single and double banking can be found at www.thebigrow.com/?cat=15    

 

Looking at contemporary plans of various boats there seems to always be exceptions but at least these might be a decent guide.

 

Allan

 

 

[Ken_2]

I added the foresails.  These were straight forward, but it required a bit of dexterity.  There were just enough of these 2 mm rings, which of course I dropped several times while added them to the sails.  I then linked them on the forestays, added halyards, and added belaying pins for the sheets and halyards.

[Ken_2]

Next, I tried to hoist the main sail.  But it was too large, as others have noted.  With the boom as low as it can go, the gaff rides right at the level of the cleats.  Since I wanted the boom off the deck, to represent room for the crew to move, and as shown in the pictures, it rode even higher.  So, when I lower the gaff to be below the upper rigging, the main sail really sags at the main mast.  My wife offered to shorten the mainsail, so this is my plan (aren’t I a lucky dog?). 

I cut a piece of cardboard to represent the size sail I wanted, then overlaid this on the sail trying to figure out where to cut, shorted and re-stich. To get a good estimate, I had to iron the sail, which made a big difference, and recut the cardboard several times to get it right (I hope).  We decided she only needs to cut the bottom, even though the front is not straight and the trailing edge is longer than my cardboard.  The goal is to get the sag out because it is too high.

 

I'm thinking the boat will be complete very soon.

 

[allanyed]

Hi Ken,

Your launch model continues to look very nice, but now the rigging brings up a big question for me.   

Was she cutter rigged as you show or lug rigged?   Lavery states on page 219 in The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War that launches were usually cutter rigged, but Captain Bligh's log makes reference to rigging shrouds for two masts so maybe she was originally rigged with a single mast then changed at some later point before his famous voyage following the mutiny including being lug rigged.

Allan

 

 

 

[Peanut6]

Ken, making great progress and looking good.  If you've read my entire build log you know how I handled the sail problem.  I didn't even want to attempt altering the provided sails.  If at all possible, would you be able to post some pics of your belaying points with your next update.  I'm very curious to see how and where you decided to handle that chore, especially since AL didn't address this at all and I never could get a majority opinion when I was inquiring on the issue.

[Ken_2]

Kev:  Thanks for your encouragement.  Yes, I will post some closeups.  Basically, I think the sheets should be lead as far outboard as one can, and far enough back for good leverage when sheeting in.  I choose to place the belaying pins on the seats, since there were no other reinforced places.   Sakcha added a wood platform, which is a really good idea, but I choose not to do this.  I placed the 3 belaying pins for the halyards next to the mast, on the seat (sort of what you did).

 

I see you waited for the good thread (boat lines) to be delivered, which was a good idea.  Good line makes working on the rigging easier and it looks so much better.  I was using existing line but I did not have the patience to wait for black line from a supplier.  I would have used this black line to serve the halyards at the mast but, instead I used sewing thread (and too much).  Not the best choice nor best result on my part.  I've not had much experience with serving and I look at my work as a great learning experience.  Next time, I will do better, and know more.  🙂

 

Ken

Edited November 7, 2022 by Ken_2
clarity

[Ken_2]

Allan:

Thanks for your information on boat styles, oars, and rigging.  I've been so busy working to assemble my kit while improving my skills, I've not really focused on the bigger picture.  You are providing another aspect of model kits that I have not focused on.  Keep your insights coming when you have time.  

Ken

[allanyed]

Hi Ken,

Many members feel it is a very good idea to cross check things found in many kits, including some that use the wrong name (the jolly boat on the Bounty was rotted and never involved in Lt. Bligh's famous voyage)   A pretty wide discussion on the Bounty launch has been going on in the plans section here at MSW if you have not already seen it.   It was started as a question about the tholes, but has progressed to much more.   I am asking the mods to change the title as it has grown well past just the tholes question and comments.

modelshipworld.com/topic/33217-ships-boats-gap-between-tholes/

Allan

 

[Ken_2]

Kev, here are some photos.  Sheets, lines and knots take me a while to get right, so what you see is temporary for this photo.  But I like the placement of the belaying pins.  They are a bit large for the scale, but it is what I have.

 

Ken

 

 

 

[Peanut6]

Thanks Ken, I appreciate it.  I have a tendency to over analyse things, so even after I committed to my belaying system I wanted to see how you did yours.  You did you boom tackle set-up exactly as I'm doing mine.  Almost like we were following the same set of instructions, lol.  Looking forward to seeing how your sail comes out.

[Ken_2]

BTW, Kev:

 

I am stitching my main on the gaff using the process described by John Aliprantis in the following link.  This guy has a lot of videos!! and his > 15 ships look excellent.  He must be a professional.  How else could anyone find time to accomplish all of this?

 

It took me a long time to figure out how to do this.  He makes it look simple, but it was not simple for me (I must have two thumbs and apparently dyslexic 🙂)

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVYStQmDinI&list=PLmoS1cmOImghy14MocWkRNTHDQtmMnA-f&index=77

 

Ken

[Ken_2]

here is what it looks like so far.  Now that I see it up close, I think I am working on the show side (or front) whereas I should be working on the backside.  I think I will take out all the stitches (again) and start over.  Dooh.  But at least you can see how I am planning to attach the sail.

Edited November 10, 2022 by Ken_2
clarity