Cutty Sark by bcochran - Revell - 1/96 - PLASTIC

[bcochran]

Here are two articles about building the Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark, Charles Lipkin -  July 2005 FineScale Modeler and Sam Powell - January/February 1986 Model Ship Builder. 

 

I like the Sam Powell's  build over  Charles Lipkin's. 

 

Powel rigged his deadeyes and Lipkin used the kit supplied ones. I have been arguing with myself about this.  I lean toward rigging the deadeyes though I have never done it. We will see, I hope.

 

 

 

But to each his own. I am not going to tell someone how to build their models.

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by bcochran

[shipman]

The stanchion type a I mentioned are available here

https://www.hobbies.co.uk/caldercraft-2-hole-brass-stanchions?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaignid=6727975578&utm_campaign=Shopping-Research_Campaign&utm_term=&adid=388174523725&addisttype=gpla&matchtype=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjbPogriF9wIVEJftCh3-cAILEAQYBCABEgK4nfD_BwE

 

Aero-naut 9mm Stanchions here

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Aeronaut-5602-09-Stanchion-Brass-Two-Hole-9mm-AN5602_09.html

[bcochran]

I have added bulwark stays or stanchions to one side of the deck.  The Cutty Sark had 26 per side. Revell used some wedges of plastic to represent these. I removed them since they did not look right and there were not enough of them.  I used plasticstruct rod and Elmer's white glue, which will disappear when dry.  I don't think they will get much stress since they are out of the way once the pin rails are in place. I can easily remove them if I need to.  They are not real prototypical. There were five types of these bulwark stanchions, and they had a horizontal bar attached. I don't think in 1/96 scale I want to attempt to make those.  Anyway, I think they look better than the originals. 

 

I made a paper template for spacing and a cutting jig to cut the rods.

Edited April 9, 2022 by bcochran

[Kelp]

I like the bulwark stanchions you’ve added.  It’s a big improvement over the triangular shapes that were molded on the hull.  What did you use for cutting off the triangles?  Any technique for removing them?

 

Excellent model!  I enjoy watching your progress.

 

Don

[bcochran]

I used a pair of side nippers, sand paper of various grit and a pointed knife-edge file to remove the wedges.   I cut the bottom of the wedge parallel to the waterway first with the nippers.  This usually removed most of the wedge.  I then used rough sandpaper to remove the rest of the plastic and then finer grit to remove the rough grit scratches.  I used the file to get into the corner where the sand paper could not reach.

Edited April 9, 2022 by bcochran

[Kelp]

Thanks for the tips on removing the triangles.

 

Don

[bcochran]

These two pictures are from "The Log of the Cutty Sark" by Basil Lubbock.  They were taken during her wool days.

 

This is the period I am modeling.  You can see the white starboard head, the white panels on the deck houses, the white edges of their roofs and the white cabin sides.

 

The thought I think I use to get a feel for a ship model is this, when you look at it are you reminded of that feeling you had when you saw a real tall ship?

Edited April 9, 2022 by bcochran

[bcochran]

Here is a picture of the Cutty Sark from 1891, the period I am modeling. You can see the white panels on her deck houses, the white side of her cabin and what I believe is her white wheel house.  This is from the book "Running Her Easting Down" by William F. Baker.

Edited April 9, 2022 by bcochran

[shipman]

Nice rendition of the bulwark stanchions.

Will you be having a go at the lozenge panels inside the bulwarks?

Be aware they aren't all the same width.

Another feature worth exploiting are the hinged 'freeing' panels along the bulwarks.

Unfortunately, the position on the mouldings don't line up with the deck, so something left well alone I suppose.

It isn't clear (to me) but the masts on your last photo don't appear to be white?

[bcochran]

Thanks for the compliment. Yes, I will be having a go at the lozenge panels with decals.  In the picture, the foremast and the main mast can be seen, and they look white to me.  These three pictures were taken around the same time in Sidney.  The colors in one can speak for the colors in the others, I'd think.

Edited April 9, 2022 by bcochran

[bcochran]

A photo of Cutty Sarks Starboard bulwark and one of my model near the same place. Hopefully I will have all the shroud and deadeye detail added at some point.

Edited April 9, 2022 by bcochran

[bcochran]

I have been reading the interesting discussions you all had with Bruma'a build. It is all applicable to my build also. It's good to have all your references.  Thank you all for what you do.

[bcochran]

Temporarily checking out what the bulwarks will look like with the bulwark stanchions and pin rails.  There will be white panels on the teak bulwark sections and stropped deadeyes also.   I think things will give off that real ship feeling.

 

 

Edited April 14, 2022 by bcochran

[bcochran]

I am thinking of stropping the bulwark deadeyes with white beading wire.  I will strop them, leaving a length to go through the pin rail then into the waterway with holes I will drill.

 

I will superglue the length of wire to the waterway and the pin rail, thus helping to hold the pin rail in place.  I ordered deadeyes and more one and two hole rail stanchions.   You can get very super fine beading wire which might work for the Cutty Sark's wire stays.

 

Edited April 14, 2022 by bcochran
spelling

[shipman]

If it works, that sounds like a plan.

I'd want to know if CA works on the stuff before committing.

[bcochran]

Stern railings are on and painted and most deck furniture is added. I am waiting for my deadeyes and beading wire to arrive,

Edited April 14, 2022 by bcochran

[rwiederrich]

She looks very clean......nice work.

 

Rob

[bcochran]

I wanted to post this picture of the Cutty Sark's poop which I think may have been when she was a wool ship. The ships had to wait in Sidney

harbor for a couple of months before being loaded, and the awning over the poop was used then.  I am using it as a reference for my build as to the colors of the steps, chicken coop and cabin, which all look white to me.

 

 

Edited April 16, 2022 by bcochran

[bcochran]

I am experimenting with the white panels on the deck houses and bulwarks.  Some of these photos, I have tinted for effect. I think I saw that on another build log.

Edited April 16, 2022 by bcochran

[bcochran]

This is a quote from "The Log of the Cutty Sark" by Basil Lubbock, p234. It is about J. Selby mate of the Cutty Sark in her wool days.  It describes the ship's look.

"In port he invariably was out in a boat every evening when the "Cutty" was lying off, and was most particular in seeing that the masts were aligned to the last fraction of an inch and the yards dead square.  Indeed the Cutty Sark was never more perfectly kept than when Selby was mate.  Under him her bright work was always kept well cleaned and varnished, and the white paint of the iron bulwarks, panels of the deck-houses and monkeypoop was always spotless."

 

This was just before 1891 when Selby left Cutty Sark. 

 

"Captain Woodget's photos, notably the one in Sydney Harbour, a detail of which is below, show the way in which the fore and mid house panels and a horizontal stripe of the Liverpool cabin were painted white, that the heads were all white, that the entrance to the officers' cabins was all varnished, and that the wood masts, wood bowsprit, deadeyes, blocks and shroud fairleads were black. "  John Sankey

 

This is what I am representing in my build.

Edited April 17, 2022 by bcochran

[shipman]

Observation: The mizzen looks to be hard up to the poop bulkhead and between the chicken coops in your #48 original photo. The kit mast is well clear of both.

 

Your treatment of the kit is admirable.

[bcochran]

Shipman you are right the model looks to be different from the actual ship in that area.  The model is out of proportion to the real thing in areas such as my railings.  I never intend the model to be an exact replica in every detail.  It is a representation of the Cutty Sark as a painting is a representation.

 

If and when I ever complete it and someone looks at it, they should get an idea of what the ship looked like in the late 1880's not as it looks today.

Edited April 17, 2022 by bcochran

[shipman]

Thank you, 'b', of course I understand your motives for your build and find them refreshing.

As I said, it was an observation. I don't regard myself as a 'rivet counter' but understand those that are.

Most of us enjoy this hobby simply as a form of recreation, deriving pleasure from often limited means.

Which is why, when we see the products of very accomplished modellers we get a buzz.

Looking forward to more of your fine and honest work.

[bcochran]

Nice to know my work might give someone a buzz.

Edited April 17, 2022 by bcochran

[bcochran]

A look astern as is so far.

 

 

Edited April 18, 2022 by bcochran

[bcochran]

rwiederrich,

 

You can't see your images of your Cutty Sark build on  Fine Scale Modeler.  Do I need to join to see them?

[bcochran]

White panels on the deck houses

[rwiederrich]

On 4/18/2022 at 4:16 PM, bcochran said:

rwiederrich,

 

You can't see your images of your Cutty Sark build on  Fine Scale Modeler.  Do I need to join to see them?

I'm not sure...I think Fine Scale Modeler drew their images from a website I no longer use for the image capture.  What images in particular are you seeking?

 

Rob

[bcochran]

windlass pump

[bcochran]

I got my deadeyes and stanchions today.  The deadeyes seem too small. I was told that 3.5 mm and 2.5 mm are the right size to get, but they look very hard to work with. I have never rigged a ship model, so this is all new to me.