Jolie Brise 1913 by Srenner - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:50 - first build

[Srenner]

Bit worried about the gloss coat and the mist coat depth... wanting to do enough to sand it otherwise it could damage the colour underneath but not enough to sag or drip

Edited October 29, 2022 by Srenner

[flutlo6180]

Looks really good. Nice even and proportional white stripe and crisp color separation.

[Srenner]

Added the higher stern posts to come up under the railing and also to match the slope of the transom to the top of the rail. Realized I should have done this before spray and overcoats. Hoping I can smooth it and blend back to the colors below.

Still looking for some light wood to make the rail instead of the mahogany supplied. Could you use basswood and a stain but the colour is still very light. 

[bruce d]

1 hour ago, Srenner said:

Still looking for some light wood to make the rail instead of the mahogany supplied. Could you use basswood and a stain but the colour is still very light. 

For that relatively small job perhaps coffee stirring sticks would work. 

I like what you have done, will be watching. 👍

[Srenner]

Learned a valuable lesson about thinking about the prder of painting. I sprayed those stern posts after I had clear coated and the carrier stripped the clear coating off the back of the boat. I've had to work hard to feather the colour and clear coat back in. Have decided to do one more decent clear coat over the whole hull to finally finish

. I think that's about coat 5? Been working on shaping the deck railing out of a piece of 1.5mm mahogany- its such a brittle timber when dried! But getting there

[Srenner]

Things are progressing this weekend after a few days off. The deck rail was made out of mahogany in one piece on a scroll saw and finished with the Drexel and I tidied up the paint by giving it a final sanding starting at 2000 grit  then 3000,5000 and finally 7000. Then I used a small brush to give it one more layer of ultragloss clear coat. It started to almost sag in some areas so I gave it a bit of a hit with the heat gum and let it skin so that the weight of the coat could sit and dry. And I worked on the rudder attachments.. was a bugger getting those little pin heads to sit in the holes with big fingers and ca glue. Only glued my fingers together once *proud face*

Finally the deck rail glued on with pva and now heading into shellac coat for the deck and rail before adding the cabin etc and starting on the mast. Already tapered the bowspit using a drill  a file and the hexagonal method which I learned here... thanks people 

[Srenner]

And while I consider myself a complete newbie with *real* ship building I realized I actually qualify as not new. The jolie brise is a AL model and first made using planks etc but I have done a few other ship models. 

 

Tamiya's mighty 1/300 scale Yamato with photo etch parts pack and after market decking was a big project.. unfinished as I got bored finishing all the anti aircraft detailing.

 

A billings boat Dragon I finished and rigged was probably my first boat. She's a bit dusty now as it's hard to maintain the finish on the boats without a display cabinet.

 

Finally the paper model Nagata, Japanese battleship. Paper modelling hard but it was fun making the pagoda bridge and the turrets and the 16inch gun barrels.

 

I think though I'm really a wood modeller it gives me the most satisfaction. 

[flutlo6180]

On 7/23/2022 at 2:41 PM, Srenner said:

The deck rail was made out of mahogany in one piece on a scroll saw

The deck rail looks really nice!

 

Ken

 

[Srenner]

So the ship modelling is hard on the old tools... my late dads dremel gave up the ghost yesterday..  no warning just not switching on. I reckon its late 80s vintage when did this model start from?

 

Replaced with new one... looks like an electric razor by Gillette. Will see how it performs.

[Srenner]

Been making progress on the fiddly deck furniture... been scratch building things, the anchor chain drum, wooden tiller, cabin split in half and going to build the cabin extension which was added around 1900? Ordered some after market port holes and seeing if the store bought rope is any better then the one supplied with the kit. 

[Peanut6]

I know the newer Dremels have replaceable contacts and springs, don't know if one nearly 40 years old might have the same.  I might think it could be worth looking into if the tools has any sentimental value to you.  Just a suggestion.

[Srenner]

Thanks.. I'm not overly sentimental but actually in this case it reminds me strongly of dad so I will start making enquires with dremel agent in nz

 

Cheers

[Srenner]

Who would have thought making a simple stand out of pine would take all day... trying to rebate the pieces in and make it look like I have some wood skills bit still small gaps in one leg. Will need some filler

[Srenner]

Very happy with the fat fingers and progress on the deck and cabins... there are some fiddly bits but also learning a little tips like using the dremel with a tiny burr to start holes as the drills especially anything larger than a 2mm start to wonder from where you want them. Am waiting for the rest of the brass portholes which are after market and then will glue them all down. Happy with my laminated tillet I made from some of the timber in the kit. It really has been good that they generally over supply you with timber  pins  eye bolt etc in the kit... means if you stuff it up it's not the end of the world.

Edited August 6, 2022 by Srenner

[Srenner]

So working on the first stage of rigging and due to very helpful logs on this site decided to invest in some quality after market rope rather than the kit supplied rope 0.5mm size.. which was brown anyway and I think black looks better when teamed with lighter colour running lines. So got black 0.5 and 0.15mm cotton rope from a model in nz. Then using a tip from the site I mixed 50/50 white pva with water in a medicine bottle just a little and cut some 2m lengths of the rope. Popped them in and shook the bottle a few times then pulled it out  un tangled it and hung the. From the garage door with a weight. Tip here make sure there isn't any spiders webs around.. stick really well ro the drying rope. Then left them overnight. There wasn't much fuzz to begin with but the glue helped to smooth them further also its straighter and easier to work with. 

Finally tried to tie my first block without much success its harder than it looks. Using some 0.15 black and the 0.5 as the shroud. So.. im purchasing some fly tying thread 18/0 black which is super low denier thread and that will almost disappear into the 0.5 and look quite slick. Also invested in some sharp fly tying scissors for $20. What about a small vise to hold the siesing or shall I just use the third pair of hands and see how I go?

[Srenner]

Rigging has started and it's fiddly work... firstly the fly tying thread 18/0 is very very fine but also strong. It's difficult to hold with you fingers it just slips through them. However it is pleasing that with that fineness you can wrap ot around and pull it very tight and there still is not much thread. 

 

The other thing is the 0.5 mm cotton. Getting it into blocks etc isn't that easy. I have taken to applying ca to the end of the thread and forming a ca anglet. Then cutting it on an angle to reduce the diameter of the thread down. Seems to work better. Across the boat there is a lot of tying to do. 

Edited August 16, 2022 by Srenner

[Peanut6]

I'm using the 3rd hand for seizing and serving.  Still trying to workout the best setup for whatever I'm doing.  But I suppose that is part of developing "your" method doing things.  I'm also using fly tying line, really like it.  Just one thing I'm still having trouble with is the twisting that can happen when seizing.  If I don't get the end run thru an untwisted loop I wind up with a knotted mess which is unacceptable.  Your rigging is looking good.

[Srenner]

The ratings are tough to tie.. tried so many ways of timing them but very hard to do and there is 30 ratings per side x 3 shrouds so that is 90 knots if your tying them. In the end I just ca glued them and they look tidy as. There must be a trick to it that I need to learn.

 

Also working on the stern shrouds.. they look love more modern additions to the rig but can see the benefits of them as they will tension the lines from the bow and allow the gib to be tighter as well.

[Srenner]

It's amazing how things come together once you have sails and can run dome rigging. My only concern is the halyard cross each other near the mast and it seems a bit messy but it's also busy with various lines etc in the way. I am learning a lot and you iys amazing how you cam use the tweezers to tie things in small spaces.

 

It's fun seeing it all come together. 

 

Should I add another fore sail at the front?

I have the top sail to go and another back stay and main traveller.

[Srenner]

A wet day here in Auckland ... perfect modelling day in front of the sewing machine and getting closer to finishing.

 

Boom main traveller added and been working on the rear halyard as well as sewing the top sail.

 

At this stage I'm running out of dead eyes and things so I'm improvising with scratch building some bits and pieces just to finish. 

 

I have been looking at other builds but the currency market is all over the place... vanguard models are now cheaper for us but anything with us dollar way more expensive.

[Srenner]

Getting very close to putting the finished label to the build. I went off plan with the topsail to emulate the pictures of the topsail attached to the mast and also the volume of the sail making it much bigger than the plan as if your a ship you want plenty of sail area up top. 

 

The only thing left to do is a  much better flag than the one supplied.. going to paint one up on white cloth. And I'm going to shape the main sail with spray on starch and build it up slowly to get a realistic shape to the main sail.

 

Oh and an anchor and anchor chain.

 

 

[Srenner]

After a one month break my wife was giving me pressure to tidy up all the modelling so I said let me finish the model then I can tidy up. So I did. My only regret is that I tried to apply fabric starch to the main sail while it was on and applied it too thick... rushed it too much and it now has a salty kind of wash to it like it has been out sailing too long. Anyway I just need to make a display case for it so it doesn't get dusty and I'm already thinking about my next model have the hms Greyhound in mind but heard it's not a great kit? 

 

Learned alot on this model like the way to put the blocks and deadeyes properly and sewing my own sails and some gloss painting techniques.