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This is not my sale and I have nothing to do with the sale either. However I don’t see these very often but here’s one for sale if any of the UK builders want one.   I just happened upon it. 
 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295237997664?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=k809bnrjt7-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=ygWIHLd-RE2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Mods I don’t know if this is in the correct place or even allowed. I’ll leave it with you to decide. 
 

Cheers Mark

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Make sure you confirm voltage is 230V as it has a euro style plug on it.

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6 hours ago, No Idea said:

This is not my sale and I have nothing to do with the sale either. However I don’t see these very often but here’s one for sale if any of the UK builders want one.   I just happened upon it. 
 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295237997664?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=k809bnrjt7-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=ygWIHLd-RE2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Mods I don’t know if this is in the correct place or even allowed. I’ll leave it with you to decide. 
 

Cheers Mark

I have this plank bender (haven't tried it yet), mine is older and made for the 110V.
Once they appear on ebay the price starts to shoot up so at 1 pound it's a real catch.

 

 

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Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
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Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

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From the eBay photos, it appears to be a British plug, so that would be 220 VAC. I doubt it will sell for as little as a pound. I've seen them go for some pretty amazing prices. I don't know why nobody makes these anymore. They are definitely a great tool. Finestkind! I don't know of another plank bender that allows the user as much control as this one.

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British Voltage is rated at 230V but if measured is generally 240 -245. That is not a BS1363 plug. At a push you may be able to get it in a shaver socket. You can still get 5A round pin sockets for lighting circuits but have not generally seen round pin sockets in domestic wiring since the 1960's. In industry you get round pin commando 230V Sockets but these still have an earth pin so could not use one of these.

 

Of course, could use an adaptor but it is highly likely this would be a 110V device and so you will find it won't last long. 

 

Your choice not to trust what I say but after 30 years in electrical industry and the last 10 of this as a Senior Electrical Engineer I would hope I have some idea.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

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220V  is not common for routine appliances over here,  but from what I see, there are 4 wires. 

one ground, usually green coded - which is maybe not needed for a simple resistance circuit.

one return - usually coded black

two that are hot usually coded white.

 

In a native 220V system, perhaps only one white? 

Would it need to be a wire with a larger diameter?   For water flow,it is 4/3 pi r cubed? so maybe an increase of 1/3 would handle the additional electrons?

Anyway - could not a wire cutter and a screw driver allow  the plug to be replaced? 

or

The end piece looks like it is a simple screw mount into the handle and shaft of a standard resistance solder unit

A new handle may be price competitive  with a replacement plug?

 

Running a logic exercise using what little that I think I know:  if both white wires feed into the tip, would not twice the power essentially decrease the time of getting up to temp and increase the max temp to 150 -200% of a 110V unit?

If only one of the white wires actually made the trip to the tip, would it be the same as a 110V unit?

 

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

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HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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1 hour ago, Jaager said:

The end piece looks like it is a simple screw mount into the handle and shaft of a standard resistance solder unit

A new handle may be price competitive  with a replacement plug?

If anybody is game to try to rewire what is most likely a cheesy snapped together handle heating unit from 220 VAC to 110 VAC, they're a better man than I, Gunga Din! :D 

 

The "head" of the device is held simply in the soldering tip socket of a common inexpensive light-weight electronics soldering iron with a single set screw. It's attached no differently than a replacement tip for a standard soldering iron made for printed circuit board work. Buying the unit at a low price would permit simply swapping the head from the 220 VAC iron to a 110 VAC iron in about two minutes' work. :D 

 

In case anybody unfamiliar with the Aeropiccola plank bender wonders how it works, it has a bail, as shown, which can be mounted in either of the two holes in the head. The bail has a spring loaded roller which holds the planking strip firmly against the curved head. The strip can be fed under the bail progressively to heat a specific length of the the strip. The "French curve" shaped head permits bending arcs of varying radii and is much easier to use than the currently available round-headed electric plank bender that requires the use of a forming block to define the curve. To bend a plank wider than the Aeropiccola bending head's bail will accommodate, the bail can simply be removed, the iron placed in a vise, and the bending accomplished against the hot head using both hands to hold it. 

 

th?id=OIP.MtuDuhYOoITsUdDyI6yl2gAAAA&pid=Api&P=0

 

If one already has one of the below pictured currently manufactured models with a round head similarly fastened to the heating handle pictured below, you can swap heads by simply loosening the set screw.  https://www.walmart.com/ip/Model-Shipways-Electric-Plank-Bender/983938564?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=16284&adid=22222222222000000000&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10352200394&wl4=pla-1103028060075&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Online&wl12=983938564_10000017062&wl14=electric plank bender&veh=sem&msclkid=5314eb852e0711a5e45388b1e5759f87&gclid=5314eb852e0711a5e45388b1e5759f87&gclsrc=3p.dsModel Shipways Electric Plank Bender

Edited by Bob Cleek
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I guess the Ebay photo is throwing me for loop.  The connector appears to have only 2 pins.  Rounded , not square, like it plugs into a converter or power unit.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
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I was going under the impression that the unit in question would be a UK only deal.

Bob, cut thru my knot and jumped on the most simple answer - just save the head and attach it to a regular soldering iron handle.

That would make the plug on the sale unit not relevant.  It would also open it up to the US.

 

I was looking at  Romex at Home Depot, since a recent post was about how expensive a coil has become.  The 220V is  4 wire.  The plug on Ebay is two prong and round.  I was trying to get my head around a match up of 4 wire Romex with that plug.  I also wonder if a kid who stuck a metal object on into a 220V plug would have a more interesting experience than a US kid who did it with a 110V?

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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34 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

I guess the Ebay photo is throwing me for loop.  The connector appears to have only 2 pins.  Rounded , not square, like it plugs into a converter or power unit.  

My Unimat SL lathe had a 220 VAC motor on it when I got it from a fellow who had bought it in England years decades earlier.  It had the same two-pin plug as the one in the picture. When I was in England 30 years ago, my electric razor power converter plug was also the same double round pin plug shown. I suspect this plug is the British equivalent of our two-prong plugs and has been largely supplanted by three prong grounded plugs, as have our two prong plugs here.

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The BS1363 plug with the square pins replaced the round in the 1950's. As i said only shaving socket have a round pin and that is because they are for use in a special location (bath room) using a SELV supply. You can buy an adaptor to use outside of the bathroom but they are low rated in current and would not supply an iron.

 

Can you please stop saying 220V as it is 230V and you are bordering on the tolerances for damage to electronic equipment (216V) in the UK.

 

Am i looking at a different item, what's with all  the wires that i cannot see. This shows a Europeon 110V class2, double insulated (no earth) portable device with a moulded unfused plug. 

 

Also these are great but that part you have to slide the plank under gets hot and its a real pain inserting the plank under it to start the process. You need three hands.

 

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Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Guyuti said:

All,

 

I asked the owner / seller of the item what plug and voltage it says on the Box his reply was:-

"Hi, it does have a European plug and it says 220 volts on the box"

 

Guy

Hi, get him to check the iron itself to be sure.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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The plugs may differ from to country to country in Europe however taking Sweden as an example;

Quote

In Sweden the standard voltage is 230 V and the frequency is 50 Hz. You can use your electric appliances in Sweden, if the standard voltage in your country is in between 220 - 240 V (as is in the UK, Europe, Australia and most of Asia and Africa). Manufacturers take these small deviations into account.

The plug in the original picture is what is called Euro-plug, fits in most countries in Europe besides UK which has a different prong setting. 

 

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Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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