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Le Soleil Royal by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100


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Henry I looked back at your build for reference again. In post #45 way back in 2013 you show making your filler for that open space and the head timbers. I added a couple of your photos but not all the ones in that post. Hope you consider it a compliment that I want to copy what you did!  Would you care to tell me your process to make these parts?  As you said above I will need to mount the two parts before I make the insert, so I can understand how I will need to trace the shape I guess. No idea, and impressed, with how you finalized the head temper shape. How thick is the sheet styrene?  Not seen it that thick at my craft store. I ordered the product shown in your picture to make the ornamentation once I get the parts made. 
Thanks Again Henry 

Hope you don’t mind my asking your advice. 
 

Bill

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Bill,

Evergreen styrene comes in strip stock as well as sheet stock.  The head rail supports were carved out of 1/4 x 1/4 square strip stock.   I think😏.  It may have been slightly different size stock but the method is still the same.

The way I worked out the shape was to take measurements across and along the stem with a set of calipers to transfer them to the strip stock.  I worked out the 'rise' so to speak by temporarily offering up the head rails to the stem and taking the measurement of the distance to the bottom head rail.  That at least got me close. Then it was a matter of working them into a pleasing shape and fine tuning the fit.  I added the decorative details on the outboard faces by molding some resin parts.

 

For the billet I used between the upper and lower cheek rails I traced the shape on paper and then transferred it to the strip stock. Again, there is a lot of fettling to get a good fit and pleasing profile.

 

Regards,

Henry

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Marc I am up to page 55 reading through your blog.  I see in the photo that you went ahead and attached the pieces shown in the photo to the inside of the upper bulwark. Was that simply for convenience?  I also see you added the eyebolts to later rig he cannons. Brilliant!

 

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Yes, same rationale for the kevels.  As you approach the upper bulwarks, I encourage you to take a little extra time to fill/level injection mould marks.  It’s one of the shortcomings of the kit that it is loaded with tons of these moulding artifacts - not coincidentally, that is probably why the injection-moulded detail is so crisp on this kit.

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

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Thanks Marc. I actually have been doing that. I think your upper bulwarks are a piece of art. I study your’s constantly when I am working to see ways I can ant to do mine. I really want to gold leaf all the ornamentation. That is most likely not at all authentic but something I want to do for artistic display.  I am tinkering with just doing all of he ornaments and hand paint gold hatch openings, railings, etc. Or gold leaf everything that is gold. My gold paint is noticeably different and of course the smoothness of the painted areas would look different from the gold leaf area. I can really appreciate the detail of the black rail. Just adding that to your’s really enhanced the visual interest. 

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Edited by Bill97
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Well how cool is this?  I was online looking for the missing steps in my instructions. Apparently Heller was made aware of this in the new instruction book. They published a supplementary sheet to be added. I guess they really have no way of knowing who has purchased the kit so as to inform them of the availability of the supplement. Will have to figure out exactly what Heller is explaining in step 90. I am guessing they are just saying how many of those different blocks I will rig along the way. 

 

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Edited by Bill97
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Worked on the head of the ship since my last post. I decided to gold leaf the figure head and paint Vellajo polished gold on the molding that follows the edges of the knees.  I really like the gold leaf and will be anxious to do all the ornamentation on the UB’s, quarter galleries, and stern. I puttied the seam where the pieces attach to the hull and keel. Later I will sand, undercoat, and touch up the paint around the entire installation. Once dried and safe to handle I will attempt to carve the filler piece between the knees and the support timbers. I test fitted my bowsprit and notice I have a bit of space where it does not touch as it should. Will have to use a little tension and the gammoning to pull it down snug. 

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Gentlemen, a question if you don’t mind. As I am working on the bow section of the ship I am dry fitting parts to insure proper fit. One of the things I am getting ready to work on is the head timbers to support the grating (part 289 in step 40, what ever the nautical term) following Henry’s design. I dry fitted the grating in place and noticed it butts up flush with the front of the bow and the two back ends actually pass to the outside of the hull. Then part 39 in step 41 sets on top if it covering the seam. Is this correct?  My initial thought looking at step 40 was that part 289 set on top of the bow instead of butting up to the front. Oh, and I added a thin piece of Evergreen to close the gap under the bowsprit. 

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Yes, the beakhead grating butts up to the bow planking and sits on top of the wale. The demi-lune bowsprit deck (how's that for a made up name?) does not quite cover the seam between the bow planking and the grating.

 

Regards,

 

Henry

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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😀 Henry you are an excellent teacher. How did you cut/carve the piece you used? The pattern is obviously just paper. I glued together two pieces of 2mm thick Evergreen to get a 4mm thick piece of styrene to make the actual piece I am going to use. I started cutting the shape with my shark point xacto knife and quickly realized that will take forever. I then thought I had a brilliant idea to cut it out using my scroll saw in the wood shop. Not a good idea. The blade moving up and down at high speed creates friction and heat which melts the styrene back together behind the blade. Today I am going to try using a grinding bit in my Drimel to see if that will smoothly form the shape I want. 

 

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That is exactly how I did the shaping.  Good job.

 

Different topic.  What are you using for rope for your anchor cables? It looks braided.

 

Regards,

 

Henry

Edited by popeye2sea

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Strange instructions.  Never heard of braiding three ropes together to make a cable.  I don't think that would have been done, ever.

 

You would be better served by getting yourself some large size rope from one of the fine manufacturers listed on MSW.  I think I used one of the largest sizes (2mm) from Syren.  Some manufacturers even supply left hand (cable laid) rope, which is what you get when you lay up three right hand laid ropes into a cable.

 

Regards,

Henry

Edited by popeye2sea

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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