Lady Anne by kruginmi - FINISHED - 1:50 - kitbash of Artesania Latina Harvey

[kruginmi]

This is my build of the Lady Anne (named after the wife – bonus points).  If you squint real hard and tilt your head you may recognize the hull as the AL Harvey.  Other than that it has been a whole lot of kit bashing.  This model was given to me by someone who had just glued the bulkheads on and decided this just wasn’t the thing for him.  Over time (as a break from the Druid) I have done a little bit here and a little there.  I planked the hull as a standard model hull to demonstrate to someone else it wasn’t that hard, so there are planks that taper to points and no real attempt to mimic real practice.  I had ‘assumed’ it would be built out of the box and continued in that direction.  Then things started to get fuzzy. 

I knew that Harvey was a fictitious ship and things really started to bug me about how realistic it was.  The deck furnishings especially just seemed haphazard and in some cases wrong.  This is where I stepped out of the box and this fast build took a hard right into kit bashing.  Over the years I had made a point of keeping pictures of ideas on real ships and models of things I really liked and I started to look at what I could add / substitute in this build.  I started perusing books about clippers, especially ‘The American-Built Clipper Ship, 1850-1856’ by Crothers to look at deck arrangements used by Clippers (and believe it or not, I did find those outhouses shown on the Harvey.  I don’t like them, but I found them).

 

 

I cleared the decks (literally), made paper cutouts of potential deck furniture, and spent a lot of time pondering the imponderables.  A big decision was to rig her as the Pride of Baltimore II was rigged, a true Baltimore Clipper.  This defined the needed pinrails and deck tie downs required (as well as block counts which were a LOT more than the kit supplied).  I moved the pumps aft to where they could actually do some good.  The forward windlass was replaced with a windlass actually capable of bringing in an anchor.  The capstan was moved to a position where it could actually be used, a below deck access was added and on, and on, and on.  The last addition I added are cavels to allow easier docking.  To retain its original heritage I created a 1:48^th scale workman that I named sailor Harvey to verify heights as I proceeded.

 

 

The deck currently has a configuration that I am happy with.  The last original piece is the aft deckhouse and it just seems out of proportion for sailor Harvey to navigate through so that will probably be scrapped and an alternate built in its place.  Oh, I retained the cannons since my son insists that cannons are cool and I couldn’t possibly take them off.  I did, however, modify their locations, retain only six (continental breeched) and will probably have two of those stowed parallel to the bulkhead.

 

 

As time allows I will post past pictures of the process I used to build various pieces and the rationale used for including them (which may just be I liked the look).  I am really trying to focus on the Druid and get’r done, but this ship will be warming up.  As usual, any comments are welcome.

 

 

Mark

[kruginmi]

Since this was a working boat it spent a good chunk of time moored to a dock while it loaded or unloaded, so……it needed a robust way to tie up, usually to docks below the height of its bulwarks.  I had noticed the use of cavels on some wooden period ships I have visited and thought this the perfect solution.  A quick check of the Pride of Baltimore II reinforced this by seeing she had them.

 

These were pretty straight forward but I believe really added some pop to the hull.  I decided to use a block of walnut for the hull pass through and basswood (my go to wood) for the interior tie up post.  Since the bulwark was veneer overlaid on the inner sub-layer the walnut really provided a consistent clean look that I liked.  For location, I drilled through the inner bulwark at the center point between frames for accuracy.  A little wood removal with a sharp knife / files and lots of test fittings and this part was good to go.  The inner cavel post was pretty straight forward (don’t forget the matching center hole to the hull) and glued on.  All in all, this was less than an hour of work.  A total of four were put on the Lady Anne (two each side).

[egkb]

Hi There

 

Really like the contrasting timbers Mark, nice work, as a newbie I wouldn't be familiar with the 'original' model you Bashed from, but what you have there looks fab. Particularly like the deck reinforcing around the winch, cool touch... only wish I had your ability and I understand when things get 'Fuzzy' only too well (I have an 80% finished Heller model of the French Le Superbe that was 'captured' (ahem, ahem) by the Royal Navy and bashed to become HMS Superb 74, with all RN differences for circa 1803..yup that got really fuzzy before I picked a date, there were subtle rigging detail changes around that time. My Masting & Rigging of English Men of War book got a serious looking at)

Wishing you the very best

 

Eamonn

[kruginmi]

Thanks Eamonn,

 

When i decided to work 'outside the box' one of my requirements was for it be visually appealing.  I change things on the fly if they don't quite seem complete.  The deck reinforcing was one such item.  It seemed right but definitely wasn't planned for originally.  The result surpassed my expectation.

 

The warning is, once you start bashing you want to bash more and more!

 

Cheers,

Mark

[ASAT]

Thanks for posting this Mark, I just may have to get that Crothers book, awesome to see what can be done with the application of talent. I don't know if I want to show mine now

[egkb]

Hi again Mark,

 

Would it be possible, when you post your next set of photos, to include a 'side on' and 'bow, stern on' shot to give me a feel for the vessel lines. You mention the American built Clippers circa 1850's, is this her pedigree?

 

Keep Posting and I'll Keep Reading

 

Eamonn

[kruginmi]

That I can do (I am actually home this AM watching the kids).  I do want to stress that this is a kit hull, supposedly of a representative clipper from 1847.  I have done little in the way of verifying and definitely no modification.  It was a fun hull to plank - very smooth lines that minimized any need for extreme bends or crazy clamping (much easier than say the Swift).  The hull isn't finalized:  some planks at the stern need some adjusting and the bowsprit will be radically changed, but hey, it is what it is. 

 

I did include one picture of the ship with masts.  Yes, that is a 12" ruler in the photo.  This ship is pretty big.  My wife has inquired where I intend to display it and frankly, I have no idea.  This is a relax the rules and enjoy the build.  Besides, given my output rate the display issue won't be realized until the kids are gone (and I have a 3 year old!).

 

Mark

[egkb]

Very nice lines on that boat, thanks for posting the 'Profile' shots.. do I detect a good 'rake' to the masts? she looks very like one of the Great Lakes Clipper-Schooners which are tasty looking boats (like many American designed vessels of the time, in fact look no further than the famous 'America' herself,  and I always has a soft-spot for the Grand Banks Schooner lines too)

 

Eamonn

[kruginmi]

Definitely a rake to those masts!  Looks like it is going over 10 knots standing still.....

 

I also really like the look this provides.

 

Mark

[fnkershner]

Mark! I am so glad to see this log. You know it is all your fault! I have been struggling with the Harvey for many years. On the one hand she is a beautiful model, on the other she is as you say quite inaccurate. When I saw this log on MSW one you inspired me to do more digging and make some changes. I look forward to more creative ideas from you. Especially the cabin. And you have done a very nice job.

[egkb]

Nice.. am looking forward to your continuing work, if you can 'catch' the boat that is:)

 

E

[kruginmi]

Floyd, I would blame MSW - lots of things always swirling around here to totally upend your plans and make you rethink your whole build!  I checked out your build and it looks great (surprised at the call out at the beginning). 

 

Eamonn:  FIrst of all, Happy Birthday.  Hope you get a big box wrapped up nice that contains the ship model of your dreams.

 

To all: Looking for more ideas!

 

(Okay, now I guess I need to make some progress.....)

[egkb]

Thanks for the Birthday wishes Mark.. much appreciated!

 

Now get back to that boat

 

Eamonn

[fnkershner]

Mark I am most interested in your plans for the Cabin. First off what year are you aiming for? We both know that there was no such thing as a Baltimore Clipper in 1847. Much more likely would have been 1790s thru the end of the war of 1812. So the cabin doesn't fit the scale or the design from that period. Also I haven't found any ship from that time with brass bars on the skylights. I particularly like the design of your hatches. What do you plan for the shot garlands? I also wonder about that forward Hatch in front of the foremast. Is it really useful? Where do you plan for the anchor lines to go? Now that I look at your planking I wish I had used contrasting wood for the Bulwarks.

 

Can you give me a close up picture of your final planking at a rear corner. I am trying to get that to look better.

 

Can you give me the dimensions of your hatches? Did you use the gratings from the kit?

Edited August 23, 2013 by Floyd Kershner

[kruginmi]

Okay, some quick responses:

 

     Mark I am most interested in your plans for the Cabin. First off what year are you aiming for?  So the cabin doesn't fit the scale or the design from that period. Also I haven't found any ship from that time with brass bars on the skylights.

 

Krug- Unknown yet.  The Crothers book shows weather deck arrangements for every clipper built during this time frame.  I will figure something out from these.

 

      We both know that there was no such thing as a Baltimore Clipper in 1847. Much more likely would have been 1790s thru the end of the war of 1812.

 

Krug - The book by Crothers is entitled 'The American-Built Clipper Ship 1850-1856.'  So that is the general time frame of my ship.

 

     I particularly like the design of your hatches.  Can you give me the dimensions of your hatches? Did you use the gratings from the kit?

 

Krug - I will measure when I get back downstairs.  Yes I used the gratings from the kit but a lot was damaged and thrown out.  Instead of making undersized ones, I decided to to compartmentalize the grates by outlining in basswood and adding the straight planks.  Everything surrounded by walnut.

 

     What do you plan for the shot garlands?

 

Krug - Since this is a cargo ship and not a warship, I wasn't going to include them.  The size of the cannon seems to reflect keeping longboats and such at a distance and not for any big fight.  I am actually thinking I will 'stow' the midship cannon below decks (leaving just 4) and maybe fashion a cover for these port holes.

 

     I also wonder about that forward Hatch in front of the foremast. Is it really useful? Where do you plan for the anchor lines to go?

 

Krug - You have answered your own question.  This hatch is strictly to allow the anchor lines to be stowed.  I need to remember where I saw this, but a real example showed the hatch opening aft like I did.

 

     Can you give me a close up picture of your final planking at a rear corner. I am trying to get that to look better.

 

Krug - Can you elaborate?  External / internal and which corner?  Happy to oblige.

 

[fnkershner]

Let me explain - From what I can see in your pictures I am very impressed with your Hull planking. As you can see from my log this has been a challenge for me. I have already sanded off the first try of my 2nd layer of planking. I am currently about 1/2 way thru my 2nd try. Mentally I am looking ahead to the final planking of the stern. So I am interested in how you handled the corners of the planking on both the starboard and port outside planking. It looks like you did a wonderful job of bringing the ends together without any unsightly rough ends.

 

Also you mention the changes to the rigging and the added number of belaying pins. Is this based on Crothers as well? During spare moments I have been thinking about my rigging plan. so I am interested in your thoughts here as well.

 

I should also mentioned that I copied your idea of calling her the Lady Anne. Mine will be the Lady Caroline. The admiral is pleased and has added her input on the design.

Edited August 25, 2013 by Floyd Kershner

[kruginmi]

Floyd, no magic here on my frankenbuild!

 

I have attached some pics of what I think you are looking for:

 

 

For the light planks, they are sanded at a 45 degree angle at their join to make the joint between the stern and side hull only a line.  Why did I apply the stern planks angling upwards?  I saw this done somewhere and always liked it.  Seemed like a good time to apply it.

 

For the dark planks, I first applied a plank across the bottom of the stern and sanded the edges to make it match the hull (with only the first planking on).  Then as each plank on the bottom of the hull was applied, it was sanded flush with the stern (leaving the end of the board exposed).  It seemed the way to go and I am happy with the result.

 

The Crothers book is only the hull (focusing on the internal structure).  For rigging I have opted to go for something that I can try to understand and find answers to my questions:  the Pride of Baltimore rigging scheme.  I picked up the PoBII Model Shipway  Plans during a sale at the Expo and have spent many an hour studying the plans and figuring out how to translate to my hull.

 

As for the naming, keeping the commander in chief happy (and actually having some interest) makes everyone a winner!

 

Cheers, Mark

[egkb]

I do like the look of this boat Mark, some nice little touches to be seen and great craftsmanship shown at every step, keep posting the photos!

 

Eamonn

PS I'll be attempting my Catheads this coming week (after a few trial runs with the different methods, thanks for your input on it)

E

[kruginmi]

Thanks Eamonn and Floyd for the motivation from your own builds.  That's what is great about a site like this.

 

Not sure what I am doing next, but it will be something!

 

Mark

[ASAT]

Mark, that is what I like about MSW as well, lots of info shared by all.

I was hoping to do a windlass similar to yours but Ithink I may have to go with something a bit simpler, something like Blackies(another harvey builder) I don't have a lathe so I will start with a dowel and see what emerges. Keep posting your great pics, that's one area I need to work on,my pics don't come out near as well as yours. Any tips for that?

 

Lou

Edited August 25, 2013 by ASAT

[ASAT]

Mark, I thought I would work on the bowsprit before doing the windlass, to see how much room is available for it. I am wondering how you have the bowsprit located? I cant really tell in any of the pics if the end of the bowsprit penetrates into the deck or is it just trapped by the stub bit? Also is the deck end of the bowsprit chamfered to match the deck if it does not penetrate into it?

Lou

[kruginmi]

Lou and everyone,

 

I feel obligated to state again everything I have done has been for the fun of it.  I have no problem sharing, just don't want people to think I have done any big amount of research and is the last word on the subject (hah hah). 

 

I did have to laugh when you mentioned my windlass, because my first thought was the capstan.  A capstan made from the kit part with cut down wooden cocktail toothpicks for arms!  However, I figured out you meant the forward windlass (which I am pretty proud of).  I can't locate the pictures of it being built unfortunately but I did design it out beforehand and lathed it using boxwood.  The lathe was procured not because of the ships, but to make pens:

 

 

This is a related hobby that actually brings in some income!  The best part of this is that I get to really understand different types of woods.  Their look, how they sand, how they finish and their usability in the future.  A bonus is I do get to use it occassionaly for ship related articles.

 

On the camera topic, I use an (older) Kodak EasyShare DX 6440.  The big discovery was the ability to go into close up mode.  This has to be selected and produces very clear images.  They are not achievable otherwise.  I then edit them to resize to 25% normal size.  If anyone particularly wants one larger, PM me and I can send it out.

 

For the bowsprit I flatten it a little where it meets the deck and butt it against the windlass:

 

 

The stem defines the angle of the bowsprit.  It really is up to you on how you want to terminate it, but by lodging against a solid beam, less deck area is taken up by it.  To insure the position is fixed I did drill through and dowel it into the deck.

 

Cheers, Mark

[fnkershner]

Mark - Thanks! Those pictures are exactly what I needed. Your stern came out very nice. How many stealers did it take on the 2nd planking? I like the contrasting Colors.

[ASAT]

Mark, I know you are having fun with your Lady Anne, but your results sure are appealing so I hope you don't mind a little "flattering imitation?"  

 

Wow, those pens are cool! I love wood and the neat stuff you can do with it. I made my kids some memory boxes using exotic inlays for Christmas one year - was a great project. Hopefully I will be able to give them all a shipmodel to remember me by as well....

 

That bow area is sharp! I love that decking reinforcement and that windlass just looks good from any angle. I think I will do a combination of chamfering and using the stub bits as well.....  hopefully I will have some more to post on my build soon. Thanks again!

 

Lou

[kruginmi]

Lou - looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

 

Floyd - I have no idea how many stealers I have offhand, but my process on kit cover the hull planking is to take a long strip and position it correctly midship.  Then I let it flop forward and aft, where it lays flat against the hull.  This lay of the plank is marked in with a pencil.  Then the long plank is cut into whatever length planks I feel like and glued down on this line.  After a few runs, you will see where the stealers are required.  I do not force the planks to do anything but lay flat against the hull (which is what they want to do).  I do start with the bulwarks and go down to the turn of the hull, then start from the bottom and work up.  This gives you that almost smiley face mouth plank as the last plank in the center of the hull but is pretty quick.

 

On accurate planking this a first step to identify where to diminish planks and to understand where the difficult parts of the hull are, but i won't get too much into that (because I didn't do it that way on this ship).

 

I appreciate all the compliments.  Maybe I should show this to my kids to show them I am not crazy.....(I would have to figure out how to stop them texting first).

 

Mark

[kruginmi]

One item on this ship that I saw someone else do that I knew immediately that I was going to copy was the stairwell going down to the lower deck.  In a PoB - and one that has the hull complete - how would you do this?  The answer is to make a self contained box  and lower it into a cut hole in the deck:

 

 

 

In the following pic you will notice a slight indentation at the top of the box.  This was to allow the box to slide down next to the center bulkhead.

 

 

The box is painted black below deck level to allow the illusion of desending.

 

 

 

I really like the opportunities this provides both on this ship and others.  An easy implementation with good results.

[fnkershner]

So Mark - Just an observation. but I doubt the companionway would go directly down to the stove. Several reasons for this.

 

1. Safety - you could very easily land on the cook stove on your way down.

2. Conversation of heat. On cold days at sea you want that heat to be retained not go up the stairs.

[kruginmi]

I was wondering when someone would notice this!  Bonus points to you Floyd!

 

In my defense there is a wall at the bottom of the stairs....(hah, hah).  Right now I have no specific plans to change it (you are the first to point this out) but I may get a flash of brilliance, who knows.  An easy quick fix is to reverse the stairs, but I don't know if I have another railing piece (photos above are older, see previous overviews for how they were redone).

 

Mark

[ASAT]

Mark, I thought that the stove was actually "offset" to starboard under the deck and there is a 45 degree flue that connects it to the exaust stack on deck which needs to be out of the walkways - those designers are most creative!

[fnkershner]

I know it is too late but I think the best solution is for the companion way to run for and aft. I believe this was common on sailing ships if only to help the guy going up or down when the ship was heeled over. I think you will find that most companion ways were on the center line and running for & aft. Reversing wont help because the stack is in the way above decks. Still it looks nice and I think I may be inspired to do something similar.