RS1 Colin Archer by Doug McKenzie - Billing Boats - 1:15 - RADIO

[Doug McKenzie]

2 sides of the mainmast have been tapered with a small band saw (Pic 1).  [BTW the sanded, varnished deck is also seen in this pic.  The magic marker method for caulking is clear enuff but certainly doesn't reproduce the actual appearance in the photo in the previous post.]  After sanding the sawn sides, the other two sides are marked for taper and sawn and sanded.  When the tapered, square cross section is complete, the lines for making the mast 8 sided are drawn (Pic 2).  The octagonal shape that will result can be seen on the heel.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pic 3 shows the 8 sided mast that derives from removing the corners of the 4 sided mast.  The upper part of the mast is still 4 sided because I'm exhibiting RS1 Colin Archer at an Arts & Crafts fair and I want to show the process for making the mast.  The lower part of Pic 3, shows the 8 sided part, you can see the 'ring' around the mast where the lines are visible on the original 4 sides but the 4 new sides are blank.  The 8 roughly equal spacings shows that the cross section is octagonal.

Pic 4 shows the section below the octagonal part which has been reduced to 16 sides.  Another ring is shown with lines on the original 8 sided mast and spaces on the new 8 sides.  Again, we're looking for these to be equal.  The part below the deck has been rounded.  Eventually, of course, the entire mast will be rounded.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pic 5 shows the mast stepped (temporarily) into the painted hull!

Edited August 10, 2023 by Doug McKenzie
Revise the formatting for better fit of pictures

[Doug McKenzie]

Pic 1 shows the completed rail, the rudder lock (I don't know what this does), 7 posts, the forward hatch and the two anchor cranes.  Also shown is the almost circular bowsprit in its retracted position.

 

Now we start the rudder.  The kit does not indicate that the after edge of the rudder should be tapered but that seems odd since the rudder is almost 5" thick (full scale).  I checked photos from the replica rescue ship Emma and the upper two thirds of her after edge was tapered so I followed that as shown in Pic 2.  Then I noticed that the diameter of the prop is only 3 1/2 times the thickness of the rudder which means about 1/3 of the propeller's flow would be hitting a flat wall instead of smoothly flow on.  I therefore decided to taper the forward facing edge of the rudder port.  This is shown in Pic 3.  I think this should make the propellor more effective although the problem still exists for reverse since I am not tapering the sternpost! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 When fitting the pintles and gudgeons,  the kit does not indicate that the upper and lower pintles are in line with each other.  I am changing the orientation of the upper pintle-gudgeon pair so that they are in line with the lower so that I can remove the rudder without causing any damage.  Another post will show the results.

 

 

 

[Doug McKenzie]

We had an arts and crafts show at the adult community where my wife and I live yesterday.  Since I had progressed to the point where I was fitting out the desk I was motivated to finish a bunch of the details so she looked pretty.  Thus Pic 1.

Installing the stanchions and the fife rail was made easier by drilling a shallow dimple in the deck for the foot of the posts. The rudder is shipped.  I'll be fastening a pivoting brass shoe for the bottom of the rudder, connecting it to the bottom of the sternpost in order to prevent the pintles from rising out of the gudgeons when sailing.  It may be silly, but better safe than sorry. The travelers for both the main and mizzen were attached to their supports differently than in actual practice.  In actual practice, the ends of the travelers were flattened, drilled and bolted.   I drilled holes in their supports and inserted the ends of the travelers into the holes.  Oarlocks and belaying pins have also been positioned on the rail and fife rail.

 

The window bars on the coach roof posed a problem as they came out very uneven at first try (Pic 2).  On the left, there were only little marker holes to show where the bars attached to the frames.  On the right, I drilled larger holes to actually accept the legs of the bars.  The only authenticity that I lost using this technique was that the bars were closer to the frames.  The good part is that they are MUCH more uniform. 

My favorite fitting is the stemhead fitting that the bowsprit slides through when being retracted and extended (Pic 3).  During the yacht phase of RS1 this fitting was served presumably to avoid damaging the bowsprit when sliding in and out.  Another fitting that was added during the yacht phase was the ventilator on top of the coach roof.
 

[Doug McKenzie]

A bunch of deck fittings have been added such as the anchor winch, some ventilators and the deck level light gatherers (dllg's - my name).  The dllg's still need to be painted a light blue.  These are shown in Pic 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On to the RC equipment.  I have been surprised at the huge selection of RC stuff but little info on what the specs all mean so picking the equipment has been a very human affair.  I am going to tell which equipment I'm using and why I picked it since it might be useful to some one.  First, I selected the 3 winch servos for the sails and the rudder servo based on their dimensions.  Billings provides diagrams of the equipment but no names or models or companies.  The winch servos, in their diagrams, matched the HiTec servos HS-785HB and their rudder servo diagram matched the HiTec HS-645MG.  That was relatively easy because not too many companies seem to make winch servos.  I figured that I would get all the rest of my components from HiTec until I learned that they don't make the transmitters and receivers.  I should point out that I got great technical consulting from HiTec and decided that that would be a big factor in choosing the transmitter / receiver vendor.  Futuba technical support spent several hours on the phone with me explaining stuff and I finally settled on their 12K transmitter and R3008SB receiver.  The 2 key issues for me were 1) the combo could handle the 5 channels that I needed (wanted) and 2) that there were slider switches on the sides that I thought I could effectively use for the jib and staysail sheets.  I dealt with 3 different technical service fellows, all great, and one was even a sailor which was hugely useful because all of this equipment is for airplanes and helicopters and the documentation reflects that fact.  Until I got used to the RC technical language (underneath the airplane language), the material was not so easy to understand.  I choose the Futuba FR2F900 battery to drive the receiver.  This one is on the small side, I think, because I don't anticipate long sessions of use.  All of these components I've discussed are shown in Pic 2 except the rudder servo which is already installed in the boat and can be seen in Pic 3 & 4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now to the ballast.  The plans indicated that about 6 kg or 13 lbs would be needed.  I used 1oz steel ingots that came in 4oz strips with adhesive on the back.  They're used for balancing car tires.  I wanted to spread the ballast as far forward and aft as possible to reduce completely unrealistic pitching.  Pic 3 shows the first 42 oz (of a total of about 200) installed and coated with epoxy.  This is just 2.6 lb.  You can also see the rudder servo (which is connected to the rudder and works!).  After this first batch of ballast, the waterline at the bow was 5 cm above the surface of the water and at the stern it was 5.5 cm above the water (Pic 4).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two other batches of ballast (for a total of 11.1 lbs) have been installed  (Pic 5) and the WL is 1.9 cm above the water at the bow and 1.1 cm  at the stern.  I haven't decide whether I'm going to leave 1 cm of the bottom paint showing or not.  Probably I'll see how she sails with 1 cm showing and then make the final decision.  Also I need to finish the spars and sails and the RC installation before adding the last bit of ballast.  In a chamber, just forward of the mainmast, I was able to insert 2.5 lbs relative to the earlier comment about pitching..  

 

 

 

[Doug McKenzie]

I'm making a separate post for a question.  Putting the boat in and taking her out during the ballast runs made me realize that this thing is going to be way too heavy and cumbersome to be carried so I would like to build or buy a suitable stand/transporter.  I'll be making both masts removable so they can lie on the deck.  The bowsprit is already retractable.

 

Does anyone know of anything like this that I might be able to use as a starting point?

[ccoyle]

You can try looking here.

[Doug McKenzie]

In this post, I show the cute little cart that will transport Colin Archer around in my workshop and on the grass.   It started with a table from Amazon 18" long, 18" high and 12" wide (Pic 1).  I did have to make one modification to support a shelf - the long bottom bar, in the original stood 3/4" higher than the side bars.  I cut 2 dados in the long bar so that the tops of the 3 bars would be flush.  The wood is acacia, really quite beautiful.  Then a shelf was added sitting on top of the 3 bottom bars.  Amazon had serving trays made out of acacia that were just a little too big but were able to be modified (Pic 2).  This was more challenging than it may appear because the legs are splayed out in both directions whereas they look vertical in the pictures.  The four wheels, each 6" in diameter, are mounted and two shallow grooves on the table top will secure the mounting cradle.  I have to thank my friend, Marty, for reminding me that I should uses tubed tires rather than solid wheels so that the cart will roll much better over rough ground and grass.  Also, I thank him for the use of his tools (e.g. Sawzall with a metal blade for cutting the 5/8" steel axles) - He lives in a house, I live in an apartment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The last part of the cart was the handle.  When I asked the guy at the hard wood lumber store for a 12' piece of acacia 1x2 he laughed and said, "I don't have any acacia and if I did it certainly wouldn't be available in 1x2."  I settled for clear pine 1x2, stained it mahogany and gave it 3 coats of varnish (Pic 3).  Pic 4 shows Colin Archer sitting proudly on her new cart.  The bowsprit is in the retracted position as it would be for transport.  The two masts will be horizontal during transport but that story will come much later.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the next post, I'll get back to the RC components focusing on the motor, the ESC and the battery.

[ccoyle]

To borrow a quote from the Old Man in Das Boot, "Clever trick!"

[Doug McKenzie]

Now for the motor.  In Pic 1 the motor is in place with the coupler joining the propellor shaft and the motor shaft.  A few comments on the motor:   

1-- It is a TURNIGY TRACKSTAR 540-13T BRUSHED MOTOR from Hobbyking.   How did I arrive at this motor?  The tech service guys at Hobbyking directed me to a different motor but it was unavailable.  They then directed me to this motor in combo with 60A ESC COMBO FOR 1/10TH CRAWLER.  Notice that I have no idea why these recommendations were made nor why the two motors (I guess) are equivalent.  I'm very glad that the tech service guys did not try to explain any of this to me.

2-- The coupler comes from Octura Models that my local hobby store manager told me to contact.  They serve the motorized boat model community.  The coupler is a universal joint that allows for a little misalignment between the propellor shaft and the motor shaft.  The coupler expected both shafts to be 1/8" in diameter.  This was true for the motor shaft but not the propellor shaft which was a little smaller.  I inserted a brass tube with 1/8" OD (and an ID smaller than the propellor shaft) into the coupler and drilled the ID to fit fit the propellor shaft.  The remaining wall thickness was sufficiently thin that the set screws had no trouble clamping everything together.

3-- The coupler was too long for the position of the motor support that Billings provided so I had to reposition it about 3/8" further from the propellor shaft.  The motor support can be seen 

between the motor and the coupler.  It is screwed onto the motor.  Installing the motor required cutting the bulkhead that also supports the motor.  Then the piece that was cut out is replaced as shown in Pic 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Starting from the lower left of Pic 3, I describe the RC components for the motor.  The Futuba battery that drives the receiver, the receiver switch and the receiver itself have all been discussed previously in connection with the rudder control.  Then comes the ESC (identified earlier with the motor) with a little switch, the two leads to the motor itself.  Lastly, the motor battery, ZIPPY 6000MAH 2S2P 35C HARDCASE PACK.  In between the ESC and the battery is an adaptor.  I only mention this because the first adaptor that I got was not correct and the ESC billowed LOTS of smoke. Hobbyking diagnosed the problem and sent me the correct adaptor and everything worked fine after I replaced the ESC (eBay) also.  The first adaptor I got from a hobby store.  It is not clear to me whether there are two versions of this adapter or whether the first one was a mistake. It turns out that the little switch on the ESC doesn't seem to do anything.  It is supposed to turn the motor off but Hobbyking says a lot of people don't use it and some ESCs don't even have the switch.  Also, the switch for the receiver has 2 wires coming out of it that I have no idea what they are for.

 

One last comment is that in the transmitter, I used the "End Point" function so that the full range of motor speeds is not used.  Currently, it is set at 50% for both forward and reverse.  I may change that after sea trials.

Next post will be about the winch servo used to control the mainsail sheet.

[Doug McKenzie]

Now for the winch servo that will control the main sheet.  This post comes just a few hours after the last post because the motor had to be in place before this work could be installed.  The work itself was actually completed a few weeks ago.  Pic 1 takes up after the motor was installed but two new holes can be seen in the bulkhead. 

 

Before going into the details, I want to comment on the first two controls.  BB is very clear that they provide no support for RC installations, however, if you consider the rudder control, you'll notice that they provide a piece of wood on which the servo fits and that piece of wood notches beautiful into two bulkheads.  I myself was very appreciative! 

 

Then we move to the second control, the motor, and BB is still helpful.  There is a piece of wood that screws onto the motor and slips into a notch on the keel.  Along with a hole cut in a bulkhead, the motor is correctly aligned with the propeller shaft which is great.  Even though I had to move the notch and open up the hole in the bulkhead,  BB provided a lot of assistance for this installation.

 

Then we come to the third control, the main sheet winch servo, and the only help that BB provides is a diagram of where it needs to be.  I'm not complaining because this is how I learned that the winch drum should rotate around an horizontal axis and that the drum should be roughly on the centerline of the boat so that the main sheet will smoothly pass up through the cockpit to the end of the main boom.  I am only pointing this out because of the need to create a structure for the winch servo based on my own experience and creativity was very challenging since I have no RC experience!  The structure that I have designed can undoubtedly by much improved on, I just hope it works.  One thing I am very glad of is that I realized that I have to be able to disassemble it if the need arises.  Pic 2 shows what I am calling a bulkhead doubler because I can't think of another name.  Obviously the two holes were for screws to hold the doubler!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pic 3 shows a more complicated addition that has 3 pieces of wood:  The lowest piece provides a foundation for the other pieces to which the winch servo for the main sheet will be attached.  Note that the little horizontal piece on top, screws into the bulkhead doubler.  That makes it really strong.  In addition, the lower piece of wood will later provide a foundation for some of the other RC components (e.g. the ESC). In Pic 4 the actual servo is installed.  The pictures are a little misleading because it might seem that with the wood structure in place, I just slide the servo in to its place.  Unfortunately, it's not so easy.  I have to loosen all the screws of the support structure so that it becomes wobbly in order to get the servo into its place and then retighten all the screws.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The actual connection to the sail will have to wait until there is at least a main boom but I would like to present my plan for comment. Only a single line will exit the winch.  It will pass up through the cockpit and then attach to the end of the main boom.  The control in neutral position will have all the line on the winch drum and the sail be in line with the center line of the boat.  A little bit of line will be unwound for close haul, more for reaching and pretty much all of it for running.  When running, the tip of the boom will be about 17" from its position when the boom is on the centerline.  The servo will be able to release about 15" of line with 3.5 revolutions of the drum -  17 & 15 are close enough for engineering work (I think).  Of course, a possible  problem is that if the wind does not cause the sail to keep the line reasonably taut as it is released from the winch, it could get tangled - not good.  One possible fix for this is to run the line up the mizzen mast through a block, to a weight, then down to a fairlead at the level of the boom and then to the boom end.  This would allow the line coming off the winch to be relatively taut and extra line could lie in a bight in free space where it would be unlikely to tangle or catch on anything.  Any comments would be welcome.

 

Later we will see that the 2 controls operating on the staysail and jib sheets will not have this problem because these sails both have two sheets and when the winch releases one sheet , it will take up the other at roughly the same speed therefore the whole loop will remain more or less taut enough to avoid tangle.  A real advantage to this arrangement is that the foresails can be back winded if needed.  Next post will be the controls of the foresails and again BB has some helpful diagrams but the implementation is left up to the modeler.

 

Edited October 29, 2023 by Doug McKenzie

[Doug McKenzie]

So, last post I said I would focus on the controls for the 2 fore sails next.  That is not true.  The reason is that I want to get started on the actual control scheme for the sheet of the mainsail.  To do that, I need, at the minimum, the main boom in operation.  That suggests that the fittings on the main mast need to be finished so that's what I'm going to focus on for this post in addition to the technique I'm using to be able to take the mainmast out of the hull for transportation.

 

Pic 1 shows the rigging for the main gaff.  Billings provides cute little plastic shells for the blocks and beautiful brass sheaves.  The only problem is that the width of the slot in the shell is less than the thickness of the sheave so there is no way the sheave can rotate.  The good news is that the line slides easily even without rotation so no problem.  All of the bands are made of thin brass sheet so whenever lines will be attached I worried about abrasion cutting the line.  So I introduced something like a shackle (in function) and a link of chain (in appearance) to avoid the problem. BB provides a whole lot of brass rings (I think for the topsail).  I cut out about 3 mm and squished the rest into the chain link shape, Pic 2.  If the strop of a block is line, I use one of these things.  If the strop is steel wire, I don't.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the right of Pic 3, the spider band can be seen which also provides the pivots for the post on the end of the boom - together the pivots and post constitute the gooseneck.  At the far left of Pic 3 a turnbuckle (from Harbor Models) can be seen attached to the stem fitting that constrains the retractable bowsprit.  This will be discussed shortly when we talk about removing the mainmast from the hull.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now we discuss removing the mast for easy transportation purposes.  Pic 4 shows the mast in place.  Pic 5 shows the mast lifted out of the hull.  The unusual thing about this is that the fife-rail is attached to the mast and stays with it when the mast is lifted up.  The reason this happens is that both the standing rigging and the running rigging are involved in allowing the mast to be lifted out.  The standing rigging, i.e. the forestay and the 6 shrouds, are obvious impediments and they are dealt with using 3 turnbuckles - one for the fore stay and 1 each for the port and starboard triple shrouds.  Using the turnbuckles, allows these lines to be released freeing the mast to be lifted out.  This wouldn't work very well with the running rigging - there is too much of it and it doesn't correspond to anything real.  But, on this ship all the relevant running rigging, i.e.. peak and throat halyards, fore sail halyards, topsail lines (halyard, sheet and tack) and the flag halyard, lead to the fife-rail.  So everything is taken care of by attaching the fife-rail to the mast.  This is done with a little 'platform' that is left white so that the real fife-rail is left visible.

 

One thing that I'm a little proud of is how the 4 posts of the fife-rail are handled.  All four are cut, of course, but not at the same height. Each cut is 3mm higher than the preceding cut.  Brass tubes of equal length are slid over the lower parts of the posts.  Then, when the mast is lowered into the hull, the longest upper portion is fed into its tube.  When it is securely in place the second longest upper portion is fed into its tube and so on until all 4 are in their tubes and the whole thing slides down.   If the 4 cuts were all at the same height it would be hard to line them all up simultaneously.

[Ian_Grant]

Very good idea with the fife rail posts.  And the boat looks great!  👍👍

[Reggiemon]

Wow Doug, 

You have done a great job on the boat!

I'm just back home from the mountains and your almost finished.

There is a lot to work thru, when setting up the rigging attachments and running rigging on a working model. 

Reg

Edited November 22, 2023 by Reggiemon
spellling

[Doug McKenzie]

At this point I put Colin Archer on her first sea trial in the tub to see how well the motor worked.  It turned out to be sort of pathetic.  I estimate a top speed at something like 6 inches per minute (0.006 mph).  Hardly enuff to deal with difficult situations on a pond.  After a few consultations, I took a good look at the hull around the propeller and noticed that the stern post was quite wide (3/8" to 1/2") in the vacinity of the properlor.  Thus the propellor (only 1 3/8" in diameter) was largely churning dead water.  I decided to trim the rear edge of the stern post down to about 1/16".  Pic 1 shows the situation before trimming with two small gouges at the start of trimming.  Pic 2 shows the thinning in progress with the propeller shaft boss emerging. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pic 3 and 4 showing the final thinned result.  Having broken through the fiberglass and some planking, some spaces adjacent to a bulkhead are visible.  A layer of fiberglass and two additional layers of resin will be followed by 3 coats of paint.  The rudder is also being thinned by removing about 1/3 of it's thickness, so it is about 3/16" in the vicinity of the propeller with tapers to 1/16" at the leading and trailing edges instead of the overall 5/16"thickness. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pic 5 shows the completed repair.  The quality of the painting is marginal BUT she flies like a jet airplane.  I can't make a speed estimate yet because going forward with just a touch on the throttle she tried to climb out of the tub.  When she's in reverse she's more stately.  Her next sea trial will be in a pool and I'll probably turn the End Point setting down to avoid planing!  To say that this repair exceeded my expectations would be a total understatement.  One unexpected development - at some point the propeller unscrewed itself.  I solved this problem with Strong Locktite.

This was quite stupid because 250 degrees will be necessary ro remove the propeller which is plastic!  In the next post I learn to use nail polish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 25, 2023 by Doug McKenzie
Put in solution to unscrewed propeller problem..

[Sundt]

Looks nice, your boat. Som video of Colion archer and photos of the real one. 

 

and this https://www.jottacloud.com/share/99jekrg0fam1

[Doug McKenzie]

Sundt,

 

Thanks for the videos.  You may also know about the official website for the Colin Archer at https://www.colinarcher.no/ which has more photos and videos.

 

Doug

[Doug McKenzie]

The seatrial in the pool verified that the fix to the propeller flow was totally successful.  I backed down the End Points for both forward and reverse to 50% to avoid superfast speeds.  The link to a video of the action under power is:  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lnhsdz5a7odBhvLbz6PQ6rRbjOPRZJ4l/view?usp=sharing.  The seatrial was further successful in surfacing two problem areas. 

 

Problem 1-- The rudder moving upwards and disengaging the pintles and gudgeons.  Pic 1 shows the fix.  A little sort of 'traveler' was attached to the stern post (indicated by upper blue marker).  Then a machine screw (indicated by lower blue marker) was passed through the upper part of the rudder and screwed into a nut inset in the forward edge of the rudder so that the end of the screw passed just under the 'traveler' thus preventing the rudder from rising up.  The machine screw is unscrewed to clear the 'traveler' to remove the rudder.

Problem 2--  One of the turnbuckles unscrewed while rolling the boat 300 yds to the indoor pool.  This was solved by using nail polish - In Pic 2 The use of turnbuckles (indicated with blue marker) for the shrouds is seen to enable the mast to be lifted out of the hull for transport.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finishing off the deadeyes and lanyards follows - not a fix just some finishing touches.  The pictures of the Colin Archer that I had access to, did not show clearly what happened to the ends of the lanyards after reeving the deadeyes so I followed Jeppe's practice on RS14 Stavanger.  He takes the end of the lanyard off the lower deadeye and puts a lanyard hitch around the shroud above the upper deadeye (indicated by the upper blue marker).  [I used a clove hitch.]  Then he takes several half hitches around a segment of the lanyard just below the upper deadeye (indicated by the lower blue marker).  The running lights, tied to the shrouds, are also installed.

The last Pic, 4, shows some details at the bow and on the end of the retracted bowsprit. 

 

1--  The stowed anchor is shown tucked under the bulwark rail because it was the only way I could see to gracefully place it.  Based on photos of the actual vessel I think the rail may extend too far forward making it hard to fit the anchor forward of the rail where it belongs.  Lashings to the starboard post are seen.

 

2--  The turnbuckle for the mainstay is clearly seen.  Nail polish, of course, used here.  There is no actual fitting here but, as with the shrouds, the turnbuckle facilitates removing the mast.

 

3--  The black bobstay is raised out of the water when the bowsprit is retracted and pulled onto the deck.  It is shown here looped behind the port post.

 

4--  The tan line (jib outhaul) is used to pull the jib ring (with the jib tack attached to it) out to the end of the bowsprit after the bowsprit is extended.  I've looped the outhaul with the 'inhaul' (my name for the line that pulls the ring in) for less clutter to form a contiuous loop that is wrappered around the port post.

The next post will address an important engineering issue which is getting the boat into and out of the water - at 25 lbs or so, I can't do it myself.

[Ian_Grant]

She goes well in water! Vital for a lifeboat ..... Congrats!

[Doug McKenzie]

Now for the cradle.  Pic 1 shows the completed cradle in position.  If you compare the handle (wooden dowel) with the door panels, you'll see that it is level!  Both supports are made of 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum.  The handle is skewed to port to avoid the sails.  Each support has a wooden shoe at the bottom which supports the boat's weight.  Moving up, 2 more shoes are seen on each support which rest on the bulwark rail.  At the top, another shoe on each support accepts the force of the handle holding up the ship.  The forward support has an additional spacer just below the handle.  5 wingnuts need to be removed to remove the cradle and, of course, screwed on to install the cradle.  It takes about 4 minutes to put the cradle on and 3 minutes to take it off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pic 2 shows the disassembled cradle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Since the handle is skewed to port, the model does not hang vertically.  Pic 3 shows that this causes no problem since the deviation from verticle is modest.

 

 

Pic 4 shows some recently added details:  The helmsman, the life line around the deck and the life preservers.  The helmsman was a 1:15 superhero [not one that I was familiar with] that was cut, scrapped, sanded and painted. The midship stanchions on each side are ommited along with the midship life line to avoid accidents when removing and replacing the RC cover.  The life preservers are lashed to the life line.  The blue hilted sword keeps the mizzen mast from rotating. I'd like to say that ever since I was 12 years old (64 years ago), when I built my first wooden ship model (Model Shipways' Young America), I have left a blue hilted sword some place in each model as a sort of signature.  Unfortunately, this is the first time I've done it but I will continue to do it (if I remember) with future models.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pretty much the only thing left is the sails and setting up the three sail winches.  Once I select a sail cloth, I will be all set!  If anyone has any suggestions for sail cloth that will look a little authentic, I'd love to hear.  BB has supplied a little bit of something nice but not near enuff for a full set of sails.

[Doug McKenzie]

The mizzen, the main and the staysail are sown and installed (Pic 1).  The outer seams of all the sails are made with 1/4" basting tape from Sailrite.  A 1/16" leather punch is used to make holes in the seams for rigging lines, hoops etc.   By the way,  I only put ratlines on the starboard shrouds because that was done on the original - the kit is not clear on this point.  I also rigged the peak halliards to be operational along with the tack so that I could demonstrate skandalizing the main (Pic 2).  I had never seen this before so I thought it was an interesting oddity.  Of course, when I told my son and his wife, who both sail on tall ships, about it, they said "Oddity? Hardly, it's the best way to quickly depower a gaff sail."  They also said that on the boats they had been on they didn't lift the tack, but they had seen it done on a few other boats.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The control for the main sheet has been installed.  The winch drives a loop of black cord (marked with red lines) that passes through a hole into the cockpit and then up through a screweye on the mizzenmast (Pic 3).  Then it proceeds up near the top of the mizzen mast,  through a small block (Pic 4).  The main sheet is attached to the loop at the top (also Pic 4) (marked with green lines).  It then drops through the same screweye as the loop and then goes to the end of the main boom (back to Pic 3).  A few comments are in order.  This is my first time creating radio control schemes so I did somethings that are maybe not customery.  First, I want things to be easily visible so that I could see problems easily.  Hence the thick black control cord.  Also rather than hide the control loop below deck, I made it more visible by running it up the mizzen.  In addition, running it up the mizzen reduces the chance that the sheet will tangle when releasing it for reaching or running.  It seems to work OK but I'll still be wondering until she's on the water in the spring.

 

[Ian_Grant]

Very cool!  Looking forward to seeing her sail.

 

And happy new year!

[bruce1946]

I have an older version of this boat, plastic hull that I'm trying to restore.

It has Brushed motors and lead acid batteries. I'm interested in how your lipo batteries, with bushed-less motor is working out for you.

As to sails I’m trying to understand how you rig the Stay sail, and main sail for RC operation. 

The system that is set up for my boat, both the stay and main operate off of the one winch servo it appears.

The stay sail keeps getting tangled up in the main mast hardware rigging at the mast with all the lines for the main mast rigging.

The Blocks on the rear bottom of the stay sail gets caught-up in the mast rigging, as the main sail moves Port and Starboard.

On this boat, there is one RC lead (cord) that comes up in front of the Main mast that allows the stay sail to move. Along with one that comes up in front of the Mizzen sail mast, that controls the Main sail haul. By what I can tell. There are 2 blocks that ride on the bar at the base of Mizzen mast. That are used on the real operation of the boat, and this causes hang ups when using the RC portion.

I like your thoughts on the rigging on the main sail using the screw in eyelets, on the Mizzen mast.

Thank you for any input you have.

Bruce Oregon

[Doug McKenzie]

Bruce,

 

For starters let me say that that is a lovely model that you working with.  I am not striving for the same level of accuracy that your's has especially in the area of the sails and the running rigging.  I am aiming for the impression of authenticity with a lot of simplicity to make operation easier.  For example, my main throat halyard belays on a pin on the fiferail and is glued - there is no coil.   The peak halyard, on the other hand, belays and coils because I want to be able to demonstrate skandalizing.  I have left off all sorts of lines such as tacks and outhauls because I never plan to use them.  As a result the fiferail around the mainmast is relatively bare and less likely to hangup the staysail sheets.

 

None of the sheets (except the mizzen because I don't control it) are correct.  They are all single lines - again to minimize fouling.  You asked specificaly about the mainsail and the staysail.  The mainsail I described in post #50 which you have seen cause you reference the little eyebolts.  There are two components - 1) the loop driven by the winch servo and 2) the actual sheet which is attched to the loop.  Note there are no blocks used on the main sheet - I sacrifice authenticity for convenience.  I have yet to try this out this single sheet arrangment on the water and won't until the spring.  My objective is to avoid fouling the sheet.  The truth will emerge in the Spring.  I am about to implement the staysail sheet control which I will describe in my next post. This uses its own winch servo.  This will be a two sheet arrangment (port and starboard) where the winch pays one sheet out as it pulls in the other.  I'm doing this because I want to be able to backwind the staysail.  By keeping the fife rail pretty clear and by cutting the staysail foot a little short so that the clew moves a little forward of the fife rail I'm pretty sure there won't be a fouling problem.

 

As far as "lipo batteries, with brush-less motor" I am a neophyte with radio control and I just do what I've been told to do as far as the equipment goes.  You may enjoy a look at post #34 where I describe how I selected the various pieces of equipment.

 

Good fortune as you try to maintain authenticity while doing RC.  I have so little experience I don't even know how other modelers strike their balances.

 

Great to hear from you!

 

Doug

[Doug McKenzie]

A long pause to finish the trio of Columbus' ships, Pic 1.  Santa Maria is set back 14" so that it's 1:78 scale appears similar to the 1:100 scale of Nina and Pinta.  These are plastic models modified to the specs of the 1966 book Columbus' Ships by Jose Maria Martinez-Hidalgo and edited by Howard I. Chapelle.

 

The control of the foresail sheets has been installed.  Pic 2 is a diagram of the scheme.  The sheets come off the winch drum from opposite directions, through holes in the deck and then to the clew of the foresail.  As one side is taken in, the other side is paid out and they stay firmly on the drum.  To avoid snagging, I wrapped a clear plastic film around the fife rail and tacked it to the mast and the rail.  Pic 3 shows the plastic shield but not too clearly since it is transparent.  You can see one of the nails (gold) that holds the top of the shield against the mast.  This control scheme is preliminary because the foresail cannot be let out much for a beam reach or when running.  BUT it has the advantage of not snarling.  After I get some experience (remember I have very little) I will change the scheme to permit more complete positions of the foresail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pic 4 shows the jib.  I shortened the leech a bit to bring the clew closer to the luff so that flipping over the forestay would be less likely to snag.  I also put the tack of the jib on a turnbuckle attached to the slider ring so that, with the halyard fixed, the jib could be removed along with the main mast for travelling.  Since there is no stay for the jib to hank onto I made the luff hem 3 layers thick instead of just 2, as with all the other hems, to support the extra tension neededd to keep the jib luff reasonably straight.

The jib control scheme will be similar to the foresail's scheme.  I still have to sew the main topsail which thankfully simply follows the main..