HMS Diana 1794 by DaveBaxt - Caldercraft - 1:64

[RossR]

59 minutes ago, DaveBaxt said:

I have used it quite a few times already and is very handy for exactly this sort of job. Hope this helps

Thanks.  I have been running lines through the blocks or spliced eye and you have to create tension by winding up the secondary lines.   Your solution eliminates that.   

[DaveBaxt]

11 hours ago, RossR said:

Thanks.  I have been running lines through the blocks or spliced eye and you have to create tension by winding up the secondary lines.   Your solution eliminates that.   

To be fair it was not my initial idea but perhaps one of the modellers who has built the Diana before me. So I thank you who ever you are and apologize for not acknowlegding your help at the time.

[DaveBaxt]

Channels

                Rather than continue with securing the 18lb  Cannon to the gun deck I thought it would be prudent to fit the channels first to prevent any damage to the gun barrels during the above process. I apologize for what appears to be a lot of toing and froing and after looking more closely at the NMM plans, it was my intention to fit the mizzen channel as can be seen in a copy of NMM drawing (below). Although this drawing differs from the drawing given in the book AOTS Diana and the plans produced by Caldercraft, however  the photos of various models of the HMS Diana in the AOTS book shows the  same layout as the NMM plans.Below is a copy of the shear plan from NMM archives.

I have asked the question on a thread I created as regards to which type of mizzen channel should be fitted for the mizzen mast and is open to some interesting discussion. Here is the discussion in question.

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36616-position-of-mizzen-channel-on-atois-class-frigate-1794/#comment-1046158

          After making the shorter mizzen channels as depict in the above NMM drawing I then realised that due to  either the height of the lower gun ports being slightly higher up on my model ( due to perhaps the fitting of bloomfield cannon )or a slight miscalculation on my behalf of the position of fitting the ships shear lines , I have found that the distance between the mizzen channel and the top of the lower gunport is too narrow to fit a shorter chainplate of any substance ,that is if I were to fit the shorter mizzen channel in its lower position. As I had origonally taken the position of both upper and lower gun ports at an earlier time and also when I was unaware of the possibility of fitting a  shorter mizzen channel I have decided to continue to fit the longer channel higher up, as depict by the AOTS Diana book.It would apear that a number of recent modellers have followed this approach and what can also be seen from the above drawing albeit in feint lines.So can both positions be correct?

            Here are a couple of photos of the channels I have made from what I think is boxwood. Still some work to do such as clean up the profiling of the edges and to shape the inside edge to fit the hull. I am finding the use of scrapers against the grain and working in different directions quite a difficult and time consuming task and feel i may need to use a small file to touch up a number of areas.I  have also tried to taper the channels which also need some finishing off as can be seen with the use of a 12" rule. I have also drilled though the channels to take 0.7mm brass rod to help with securing the channelsinto position.

 

 

Edited May 5 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Unfortunately my skill at trying to sand an even taper without causing any bevelling was a bit limiting so I found a better way of tapering the channels using my Proxxon milling m/c and placing a 0.5mm thin strip of walnut under the outer edge of the channels and then machining one side. I then turned over the piece and then placed a 1mm strip under the outboard edge and then machined another 0.5mm off the othe side outer edge, tapering down. This gave me taper from the inner edge of 2.7mm down to 2mm. This is probably over scale slightly but I didn't want to go any thinner as I was concerned about still maintaining some strength in the piece. Hopefully the brass pins will also add a bitof strength.

 

               I have had a few issues of securing the Caldercraft deadeyes in the past but have decided to persevere with their chain plates and fit them onto the channels before fitting the channels to the hull as I am hoping now will be more accessable. As for fitting the channels to the hull I drilled right through from front to back and sharpened the ends of the brass rods and with a good tap with a small hammer penetrated the hull . I still need to remove some more material from the inside surface of the channel so that the channels will sti perpendicular to the mast , at present they are sitting square to the hull/tumblehome and don't look right.. II am considering using 5min epoxy resin to secure the brass pins into the channels and hull but just using UPV for the wooden parts. Although I have douple check the positions but still worry if they ever needed to come off again............

        I am waiting on mantua channels brackets to arrive as there are not enough brackets that came with the kit so want them to all look the same.

 

   

 

 

 

Edited May 10 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Continued with work on the the channels and blackened the many small chain plates ,links and preventer links.. After visiting my local modelling shop I noticed they supplied different diameters of piano wire. So I decided to use lengths of 0.8mm piano wire instead of brass for additional strength when securing the channels to the hull. 

             I have had difficulty with using the Caldercraft deadeye strops in the past so this time I glued them into the recesses using epoxy resin ,hoping this would make a much stronger job. I also made a couple of small tools using dowl and piano wire for turning the deadeyes. For the record I now wish I had used boxwood deadeyes instead of walnut especially the smaller 3.5mm size as these were of poor quality as a lot of the holes were spaced in the incorrect positions and don,t look to good. Unfortunately I have now glued these into position and I am unable to remove them without damaging the channels.The apoxy resin is super strong but I think the next time I will definitely not be using the Caldercraft walnut deadeyes and their strops.

 

Brass wire replaced with piano wire.

Another anomaly with the kit was the number of longer Lower chain plate links part no 259 for the 5mm deadeyes required is 42 ,whereas the number supplied was only 40. The number of preventer links supplied confirms  this shortage, there being 42 of these. I wonder if anyone else has had this problem. So I need to get in touch with Caldercraft as I don,t think I can make these.

here is a sample of the missing lower chain plate strop part no 259. There might be a problem here as these are part of a brass photo sheet but still hoping Caldercraft can supply the missing two links.

 

Edited May 17 by DaveBaxt

[DavidEN]

Hi Dave,

I also had the problem with the missing lower chain plate straps and spent some time making them myself. I subsequently discovered that Caldercraft had included the missing ones on the photo etch next to the ships wheel.

 

Regards,

David

[DaveBaxt]

12 hours ago, DavidEN said:

Hi Dave,

I also had the problem with the missing lower chain plate straps and spent some time making them myself. I subsequently discovered that Caldercraft had included the missing ones on the photo etch next to the ships wheel.

 

Regards,

David

Once again you have come to my rescue. You have probably saved me quite a few £££££. I also take my hat of to you sir for making these items as they do look a bit fiddly for my skill level. 

           After gluing in the deadeyes and their associated strops into the recesses I have noticed that the aft group of deadeyes on the foremast channels are shown on the NMM museum plans as having only 3 large deadeyes rather than depicted in the Caldercraft drawing which has 4 of these 5mm deadeyes . The AOTS Diana drawing also has 3. I have no idea why Caldercraft have this as different but wonder if this was changed at a later date and hence the extra two lower chain plate straps inside  the steering wheel packet.  Unfortuantey I just copied the Caldercraft channels for the number of recessess required and it would require me to make the forward channels again and feel it is too late for this as I do not have enough boxwood  of this size in stock .I just wish I had at least stuck with the other drawings and not used the Caldercraft channels for guidence in this instance, although no doubt they have their reasons for doing it differently.Best regards Dave

Edited May 17 by DaveBaxt