Maine Peapod by Robert952 - Midwest Products - 1:14 - SMALL

[robert952]

Preface

I’m about ready to start my next build. Ready as in: it’s on the work bench, research done, and building process outlined, at least mentally.  I got into the habit with in my previous build of, well, doing a build log.  I think I have now established a discipline to continue that process.  While this boat could correctly go into different launch dates, I chose this sub-forum since the version I am building has a 1937 date on the plans (see below).  

 

For this log, I want to post some information prior to starting the actual work on the model.  As I pondered the build, I did what I think all modelers do at some level: research.  The unusual aspect comes from the subject of a workboat which from my perusal of threads isn't a typical research subject.  This research pointed a direction to take for the build. I started with the “Construction Manual” (instruction sheet) which, I think, is where most modelers begin when building a kit.

 

Kit information

Speaking of kit, here’s my thoughts on the kit itself. 

I’ve had this kit in my stash for years.  I decided it was a good reentry into a wood model as I previously built a Midwest Model’s kit (The Dinghy).  Additionally, I think I can do more than just “follow the instructions.”  I wanted to look at upping my game by modifying this kit and build.  If all goes per plan, I will have added some ‘scratch build’ skills to my toolbox. 

 

The kit is a Skill Level 2: intended for the person having “some prior experience building wooden boats.” I find that an interesting turn of phrase since in all likelihood most of us haven’t built a wooden boat.  Boat models, yes.  But not actual boats.  (I know there are a few exceptions out there of people who have built a boat or two.)

 

The kit has the necessary components to build a nice-looking model using basic skills of “cutting, fitting, and shaping wood.” 

 

As a side note, Midwest Models at some point in time quit producing these models.  I am not sure when.  Maybe someone can add a date to the thread. 

 

Recently, Model Expo reintroduced the kits from Midwest Models, including this kit.  It appears that they kept the kit in its original form with die-cut pieces and strips for planking.  While other kits for beginners and novices exist, this kit provides a good introduction to wooden boat/ship modeling.  For those who choose to build this model, I hope this build log will prove useful. 

 

The kit has basswood die-cut pieces, strip wood for planking, and some mahogany pieces for the oarlocks and rub rail. It also includes material for oars, oarlocks, a lobster trap and buoy (more on these when I assemble those parts), and even a model of a lobster in cast metal.  

The instructions are clear enough to follow.  I would suggest that some areas of the construction steps need a bit of research around beveling and bending wood. Nothing major, but if you haven’t done it before, look up some ‘how to’ information for techniques.

 

The instructions include a couple of tidbits of data that got me to thinking about the build and raised questions about the boat.  Like many modelers, I researched the boat. What I discovered pointed out ways I could modify the model for this build.

 

Here’s what the instruction sheet (and box cover) has for background on peapods, particularly as related to lobster fishing.  Being a double-ender (pointed at both ends), the workboat fits a unique set of requirements for those fishing for (well, trapping) lobsters. The boat can be easily rowed in either direction.  This workboat design makes it suited for working around rocky shorelines.  People rowed the boat while standing and added sails for getting to and from their traps and for use as lighthouse tenders.  You find these in use around New England.  They showed up in the late 1870s through the 1930s when diesel powered became the predominant lobster fishing boat.  

 

The concept of having sails and rowing while standing suggested some potential areas for modifying the kit.  

 

Beyond the instruction sheet history, background, and additional research

In case there are some who don’t know the details of the boat, here’s some information you may find useful and gave me an insight into building this model.

 

I found more than one type of ‘peapod’ during my digging around the Internet.  This article shows detailed variations of lines for peapods and has some charts evaluating their performance, WoodenBoat link: Gallery of Peapod lines) I found the information interesting, particularly the range in sizes (13 to 16 feet) for the length of these boats.  This 14-foot scaled model fits within that range. 

 

Like so many workboats, the exact origin cannot be specifically pointed out with 100% certainty.

 

Several sources do point to North Haven Island, Maine, and Penobscot Bay as the birthplace.  That is pertinent to this build since, by using the lines in the above ‘gallery’, I found this model fits the North Haven (Whitmore) lines.  For a bit more details on peapod history, I suggest this link:  North Haven Maine Historical Society:  Peapod.

 

I found a lot of differences in the various sources describing peapods.  For example, the design likely started as lapstrake, or clinker built, with the planks overlapping.  At some point, the construction changed or included carvel; planks butting against each other.  The image below comes from a Wikipedia article about Clinker Boat Building .  No other attribution noted. I think it does a good job showing the difference in the styles.

 

 

This model uses carvel build. This drawing of the carvel does show the general need to bevel the planks for a boat.  The amount of work depends, of course, on the actual lines of a ship or boat. 

 

Another area of difference exists around the sailing rigs.  These boats were often used as lighthouse tenders.  

 

Howard Chapelle’s American Small Sailing Craft (Pg. 217-222) points out that peapods had a gaff mainsail or spritsail with a few having a jib tacked stem.  A more contemporary set up includes a single lug sail or as a lug rigged cat yawl.

 

If you want to take your model making to a new scale; say 1:1, you might want to visit Chesapeake Light Craft and their Lighthouse Tender Peapod.  Building this full scale versions gives the experience of actually building a boat and not just a model.  (Or you could say you built a 1:1 scale model?)  They also include some details about peapods and their choice in sails for their boat kit. 

 

Some peapods were rowed (while standing) out to the lobster grounds and then sailed home at the end of the workday.  It seems that these boats were not altered much for this dual duty. The sails were stored while working traps and stepped for the trip home.  I did find a reference that an oar was used as a rudder which eliminates the need to manhandle the rudder.  (About that standing up and rowing, you’ll have to wait until step 56 of the manual.)

 

If one intends to use the boats mainly as tenders or supply boats, having a keel and rudder makes sense. These additions make a boat easier to maneuver with wind power.  Again, I referred to Chapelle’s book for details. The plans there showed examples where the false keel is extended.  The keel in this book ranges from 3” to 5”.  (In Boat Modeling with Dynamite Payson, he shows a sailing keel of about 10 inches in the version he uses as a reference.)  While adding a centerboard keel could be an option, from what I found in my research, that option apparently did not get used often, if ever.

 

What this means for my build.

I went over these details to give some insight on my thought processes and explain the changes I will make to this build. 

 

I plan on adding a sail rig. To do so I need to settle on a plan and determine how to add the keel, rudder, and rigging.  Using Chapelle’s book (pg. 219 Fig 83), this 1937 version from Jonesport, ME will be my main guide. 

 

Using the kit’s drawing (blue lines) and adding the keel and rudder (red lines) I came up with this as my model’s plan.

This keel works out to be 5 inches on the prototype which, I think, is a good compromise in the range of keels in the various sources. I will have to refine parts of the drawing when the time comes like the final shape of the rudder and tiller.  However, I feel this will work well for my goals. I do have a general plan in mind for working all these changes into the model.  I will cover those details at the appropriate points in the build. 

 

But as a preview, a couple of other changes requires modification to the (now bow) seat that will help support the mast along with a mast step. I haven’t looked at all the details for a boom, gaff, the ‘iron crane’ that sits on top of the mast, and the rigging.  I do have a good idea on what these will look like. 

 

For the sail, my plan is to add a silk span sail. I intend to have the sail furled.  (Hopefully that will hide any ‘newbie’ mistakes as I have never scratch made a sail nor worked with silk span.)  I will be reviewing Tom Lauria’s video “Making sails for Ship Models from Silkspan” (Link to Part 3) for guidance. And somewhere in my notes is a link that indicates a method to cut the sail to make the task easier to model a furled sail.  For this method you don't make the whole sail. A part of the sail in the aft lower corner is cut off to simplify the furl.  

 

Ready to start the physical work.

I hope you learned something from my efforts so far.  After all, a big part of the hobby and these websites comes from sharing information we discover as we progress. While it may not be 100% historically accurate, the model should be a good representation of a Maine Peapod rigged for sailing.   

[robert952]

Building the strong back.

 

The boat is built 'upside down' with on a strong back.  So, the first steps build this assembly.  

 

In my 'research' information, I did not mention part of the research covered build logs here at MSW (and other places).  Reading those logs gave me some things to be aware of that I could avoid as well as useful tips and hints.  One key point was to be sure the bulkheads are squared and perpendicular.  

The stem posts and floor board to make what I will call the 'keel frame.'  At this point I hadn't marked the ribs and floor boards locations.  That's the next step. 

I had a problem getting the 'keel frame' to attach to the mounting board of the strong back.  When I forced the fit I managed to break one of the bulkheads off.  So, after repairing that, I went back to review the matter.  As I analyzed the problem, I determined two things.  The keel frame did not sit on the bulkheads.  The keel was bowed when I tried to glue the frame to the mounting board.  Additionally, the drawing from Chapelle's book shows an almost flat keel line.  So, I wanted to adjust for that.  

 

To fix the problem I cut some spacers to place under the bow and stern stem posts. That allows the bottom to be parallel to the ground.  

I did also have to do an adjustment to the frames to be sure it supported the keel frame as one vertical bulkhead didn't quite lay flat.  That completed the strong back assembly.  

After this picture, I extended those pieces because I will be adding a 3/8" keel to the false keel which rests on the strong back assembly. This addition will allow the keel to extend above the sheer and may serve as a location to attach the rigging.

 

 

 

Edited April 9, 2023 by robert952

[robert952]

Test Fitting First Plank.

 

I did a test fit of the first plank.  From that I found that I want to actually bend the planks into shape. So, it's off to review plank bending techniques.  It's not a lot of bend required.  I just feel that if the planks fit there's less stress on the shape of the boat at the stem posts.  (It's still a double-ender so I haven't determined a bow and stem.  That will come as I add the rudder.)

 

A couple of build logs pointed out an issue with the sides of the boat squeezing inward once the boat was removed from the strong back.  I will keep in mind that the center bulkhead may have to remain in place.  

 

Again, reading some build logs and Dynamite Payson's Boat Modeling with Dynamite Payson, I read suggestions to use bee's wax on the bulkheads' edges to help keep glue off the edges of the bulkheads.   That's been applied at this point also.  

 

Edited April 9, 2023 by robert952

[robert952]

Not an update per se but something I ran across.  I stumbled across @Dan Vadas thread (LINK) and added 'Small' to my topic title.  I like the idea. 

 

(Should small be a tag, too?)
 

Edited March 28, 2023 by robert952

[robert952]

First two planks assembled.

As I said above, I decided to shape the planks around the bulkheads rather than use 'brute force.'  The instructions do not discuss any method for soaking the planks before bending.  They show the planks pressed into position. 

 

I think shaping the wood reduces or even eliminate stress where the planks meet the stem posts. 

 

I read various articles and threads on plank bending here (and reviewed a couple of books in my library). Based on what I read, I built a tube to soak the planks. 

 

I bought some PVC plumbing parts.  My local Home Depot did not have the end caps I wanted, so I used a 'cleanout' connector on a precut piece of PVC pipe.  I think this was, as Bob Ross would say, a "happy accident".  I used a piece of scrap plywood. I made a square hole for the cleanout nut. I epoxied the assembled tube into the plywood to keep the whole thing stable when in use.  A bit of paint to 'dress it up a bit' though the intent is utility over aesthetics. While not as elegant as some of the described pipes for soaking, my tube works well enough.  I use the rubber band to hold a paper towel to keep the wood from floating up in the tube. (AND, the tube didn't leak...a big plus over my usual work with plumbing.)

While a lot of the MSW threads indicates 10-20 minutes of soaking time, I found I didn't need to soak them that long.  I need only a smooth curve, not any hard bends to the wood.  After about 5 - 6 minutes of soaking, I could place the wood around the bulkheads and hold them in place while they dried. Here's a shot of the wet wood (slight discoloration seen below) of the second plank being held in place. 

 

When the wood dried, the shape held with very little 'force fitting.' 

 

I am using wood glue over CA or PVA.  As with a lot of discussions, the choice is as much a personal choice as anything. As mentioned in my previous post, I coated the edges of the bulkheads with beeswax.  

 

Even with the 'form fit' of the wood pieces, I made sure to secure the planks to each other.  Is it possible to use too many clamps?  I had some left over and was just wondering.

 

I followed the instruction manual by first attaching one end of the plank to one stem post. I then glued the edges of the planks, clamping them into position as I went.  I quickly finished the plank by gluing it to the other stem post.  The glue on the the starting end had almost set.  

 

I made sure the glue had set and then did the other side of the boat. 

 

Here's a couple of images of the first two planks assembled with the glue dry and set.  So far, the boards are not sticking to the bulkheads.  Hopefully a combination of my being as neat as possible with the glue and using the beeswax.  I will have to take care to cut the stems since I modified the strong back a bit.  However, I think the final assembled boat will easily come off of the strong back.  

The next couple of planks will not need much bevel for a good fit.  However, as the planks go around to the bilge, the edges have to be beveled for a tight fit. The instructions do not indicate this as part of the process.  They indicate to align the planks "so that there is not a step between the adjacent planks."  Beveling the planks should make a better fit. Hopefully, beveling will reduce the number of gaps that will need filling.  

Edited April 9, 2023 by robert952

[robert952]

For a few planks more.

Sounds like a 'spaghetti western.'  Maybe because I had spaghetti for dinner tonight or the fact I recently watched an old Clint Eastwood movie.  

 

I hope that this build log will provide input and insight to those who may be researching this model and model building in general.  Towards that end, I will add a bit of detail on my method that might be useful.  So, settle in as I become verbose (again).

 

Step 19 of the 'construction manual' says to repeat steps 15 - 18 (adding planks to the boat).  Step 20 says: "Use care to align the planks so that there is not a step between adjacent planks.  Small imperfections will be sanded out later."  Though I am not quite there yet, step 21 says to trim planks to fit as you work towards the 'bottom of the boat'.  (Seems like the use of a nautical term would be appropriate.  I'll call it the keel.) 

 

The instructions do not provide detail on how to accomplish this.  Here's how I accomplish this goal...at least to some degree. 

 

Someone reading this log may not know the why and how to get the boards to lay properly.  The reason for the why can be seen half-way down my first post in this log at the drawings showing lapstrake vs carvel planking. In the drawing, you can see how the 'artist' used rectangles to show the planks for the carvel method.  To match the lines of the hull, you will need to angle planks to insure a proper fit.

 

Hopefully, this image shows another view to the situation.  Note that the green arrow points to a plank sitting on the flat surface of the previously assembled plank and the red arrow shows the angle the plank needs to lay properly against the bulkhead. (I just taped the plank in place for the photograph.)

The solution is to bevel the plank.  In this photo, as it is oriented, the bottom edge of the plank gets beveled. Per books covering planking of models, the method indicates you bevel only one edge of the plank. Beveling only one edge means you have a flat surface to assemble the next (beveled) plank to maximize surface faces for your glue to hold. 

 

(As a note: this model is planked while upside down. The instructions point out their reference to top and bottom refer to the boat as it floats upright.  In the photos, I wanted to refer to the orientation in the images.  I just feel it's a bit awkward to point at a 'lower edge' and call it the 'upper edge.'  However, when the model is complete, the top edges of the planks are the beveled edges.)

 

Prior to shaping, I scraped and sanded the edge of the plank. I am finding the process to be more art than science. You want the bevel to fit against the edge of the plank with the side against the bulkhead (or frame - depending on the actual method of the build). 

 

I take it slow to match the bevel at each station.  I eventually end up with a fit that I am happy with and seems to do the job.  I 'dry bend' the board into it's approximate shape during this process. I learned you have a hard time scraping and sanding a curved piece of wood.  

 

After I have the bevel, I wet the board; bend set in in place as seen below; secure it on the bulkheads; and wait for the plank to dry.  The plank is not glued into place at this point. 

 

The green arrow shows the fit after the bevel is done.  The red arrow shows a bit of the lower plank. Part of that 'step' gets corrected in my next steps and when I glue the plank in place.  (A small bit of force fit is required sometimes to make the curve relatively smooth.  

 

As a plank curves along the bulkheads, the ends start overlapping. You can see this situation in the photo below (I hope). By the way, the BS is my marking for Bow Starboard. I work on two planks at a time (port and starboard) and this helps me keep straight which board I have in my hand and which end goes where. The bevel and taper becomes customized for each plank.   

Reference material illustrates the bevel with a sketch such as below.  This sketch is from Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders by Donald Dressel (Pg. 51) 

I find the method isn't difficult.  You mark the points where one plank starts overlapping (red arrow below) and the point that allows the plank to fit properly (green arrow).  You remove the wood between the two marks.  I extend the starting mark onto the plank below to be sure I align the plank properly when I glue it. 

One key point here:  USE A SHARP BLADE.  You cut a mere sliver of wood.  I thought I had one more cut left on the blade I was using. As you can see below, I really didn't.

 

 

Oh, well.  We all make mistakes. And it's nothing that a little (or maybe a lot) of wood filler can't fix.  
 

At this point I apply glue.  I am using carpenter's wood glue.  

 

All of this leads me to the efforts of my work on the model.   I added six more planks to each side of the boat since my last post.  

I leave with a bit of levity.

 

I tutor a student; a scary thought that I am forming the mind of a teen. (It's algebra, so I doubt I will warp their mind too much.) Since my model table sits across from my main desk, the student sees my work in progress.  I suspect I am like many: I work on a model when time and mood allows. 

 

The student made a comment about how slow the progress seems to be.  So, I dug around and found the small laminated item I got when I joined the NRG to show to my student.

 

I took this photo since I had the model set up for photography.  I've always liked the sentiment. I may get a large print of it to hang over my work station.  

Since this process will continue for the rest of the planks, I may not post the next entry until I've completed the planking. 

 

I hope you found this entry interesting, educational, and at least a bit enjoyable. 

 

[Mike Collier]

This is a good read , since I just ordered this kit. Looking forward to building it and reading the rest of your build.

[Knocklouder]

I  will follow along, great work my friend.  

[robert952]

@Mike Collier Thanks for stopping in.  Ran into an issue that I have to correct.  When I fix that I will get back on track.

 

@Knocklouder Thanks for joining the ride.

[Burgesscb]

I’ve had this kit on a shelf for 20 years and finally pulled it down and blew the dust off the box. Your posts are incredibly insightful as I embark on this as a novice builder. I’ll continue to follow along!

[robert952]

23 hours ago, Burgesscb said:

I’ve had this kit on a shelf for 20 years and finally pulled it down and blew the dust off the box. Your posts are incredibly insightful as I embark on this as a novice builder. I’ll continue to follow along!

Glad to have provided a bit of inspiration.  

 

As update...RL has gotten in the way.  As I mentioned a previously, I ran into an issue and had to remove some planks.  However, I have corrected that problem plus one other that cropped up (or broke down - as the case may be).  I am putting more effort into making time for the workbench.  

[robert952]

Challenges of model building - and my solutions.  Part 1 

 

I decided to write this overdue post to outline a couple of problems I have solved. I didn't realize until I started this topic it has been since April since my last build log entry.  However, in my defense I did have some problems with the build.  And, of course, real life has uses different priorities just as enjoyable as model building.  (OK, a debatable point.  But, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.)

 

But I digress. 

 

One day after having added a few planks to the hull, I noticed that the last plank didn't fit against the bulkhead tightly. 

 

On closer inspection, I found that the problem started with the previous three planks.  The gap was getting wider with each additional plank While the matter was more prominent on one side, both sides of the boat had the issue. 

 

I either didn't bevel the planks enough or I didn't hold the planks in place tight enough while the glue was drying.  Most likely a bit of both.  The errant plank was nearly 1/8" out from the bulkhead. (See the first image in above post 6 to get an idea of what that might look like.)

 

Challenge #1:  Remove planks to correct a problem.

How does one correct that?  I determined the best fix would be remove the errant planks and redo them.  I searched MSW, other modeling sites, and general wood working sites to find how to disassemble wood joints held with carpenter's glue (a.k.a. PVA).  The three methods were apply fairly high heat to loosen the join, or use acetone or vinegar soften the glue and allow removal of the plank.  

 

Since the area I wanted to affect was fairly narrow. I didn't want to risk using high heat as it would likely warm up all planks.  I am not a fan of acetone because of the smell.  (I know, not bad, but still bothersome to me.)  So, I went with the use of vinegar.

 

I applied the vinegar with cotton swaps removing one plank at a time on each side of the model which reverses the assembly process.  In a couple of cases I had to wait 15 to 30 minutes for the glue to soften the glue. However, vinegar did soften the glue and I could pry the planks apart.  I started at one end of a plank and worked towards the center bulkhead. I then worked on the other end of the boat to center and repeated the process. The process went well until I got to the fourth plank.  And then...Whoops!  (OK, I used a few other stronger words at the time.  🤬 😭  )

 

Capillary action along the port bow stem soaked all the end joints.  As I pried the plank I wanted to remove, all the planks came loose from the stem.  BTW, for the photo, I did hold these out a bit to show the issue very clearly. 

 

On the good side I found out three things.  1.  White vinegar, full strength, does soften carpenter's glue and with care you can loosen each plank as needed.  2.  Though the vinegar softened the glue, it appears that after the vinegar dries/evaporates, adjacent joins do not seem to be effected.  3. With a bit of sanding to smooth the stem and plank end the above was corrected with little problems. 

 

The other lesson I learned was to be sure take a bit more care when beveling and fitting the planks. As with many challenges, you can improve your process. As you can see, I think I have solved the problem.  

So, on to the next challenge.  

 

[JacquesCousteau]

Good job working it out, it looks like it's coming along great!

[robert952]

Challenges of model building - and my solutions.  Part 2 (and Part 3) 

 

These two challenges are related to the bulkheads used for shaping the boat. 

 

Part 2: Broken center bulkhead 

The process for this build is to use the bulkheads and keel pieces as a strong back as described above. The bulkheads provide the necessary shape. 

 

Eventually, the boat will be removed from the form. Additionally, the instructions indicate when you remove the boat from the form, the sides may pull inward.  The fix for this condition is to remove the center bulkhead from the baseboard and insert that bulkhead back into the boat.  When ribs and seats get installed the shape will be held. (A couple of other builds on this specific model indicate this issue does occur.) 

 

The removal of the boat from the strong back means you need to be sure the planks don't end up glued to the bulkheads. To aid in this 'glue prevention' problem, I mentioned in a previous post the use of beeswax on the edges of the bulkheads.  Also, after I glue a plank in place I flex the bulkheads to check they hadn't inadvertently stuck to the planks.  Unfortunately, you run the risk of breaking the bulkheads off of the base board.  Which I did...twice.  

 

The second time I broke the piece I had a difficult time fitting the piece in place and squaring the bulkhead with the baseboard. The sides of the model don't leave space for this type of work with planks installed. 

 

To (hopefully) prevent a third occurrence, I glued pieces of scrap wood on either side of the bulkhead. I took care to leave the smallest of gaps between the scrap wood on the bulkhead so that when I need to remove the bulkhead, I still can. 

 

I hope it works because if that bulkhead breaks again, I will not be able to reinstall it.  On the good side, I have made the turn from the side to finish the 'bilge' of the boat.  With only a few planks left, I shouldn't run into issues. <Keeping fingers crossed, which makes it difficult to assemble parts in place.>

 

Part 3 Breaks on the end bulkheads.

 

I knew this problem would have to be addressed at some point in the build.  The end bulkheads at the stem posts came to a point. Early on in the build, those points broke off.  Interestingly, the points broke off only on one side of the boat.  

The last couple of planks on each side need a support near the keel.  As you can see in the above image, I am close to that point of the planking.  

 

The solution is not that bad.  I took the original die-cut form and drew the small pieces I need (about 1/4" roughly triangular). 

I cut the pieces out and glued them in place with CA (so it would set up quicker than PVA).  

I shaded the area that I will remove to get the needed shape.  It should be a relatively simple matter to sand this small bit of wood. The repaired bulkhead should give the necessary support for shaping the last few planks.  

 

After removing the excess wood, I should be able to finish the planking. 

 

As a related side bar: To make the strong back, the stems are glued to the baseboard. Having gained experience with using vinegar to loosen the glue, this aspect of loosening the stems should go fairly well..  

 

I'll post images of the finished planking for my next post.  Though I will not make any prediction of when that will be since I am not in a hurry.  

Edited August 19, 2023 by robert952

[robert952]

Bulkhead repairs; update on plank progress.

 

While waiting on the  glue to set on my latest work, I got the camera out and took some photos.  I figure this is a good time to update my build log.

 

Bulkhead repairs.

 

As a follow up to the previous post, here's the results of my repair on the bulk heads. 

They did the job (as you will see shortly) of supporting the next couple of planks during the assembly process.  On the 'bad news, good news' I managed to break off one of the tips. However, since it was a clean break and the piece did not get lost on the workbench (or sucked up by the vacuum, I was able to just glue it back in place.  

 

Update of planking progress

 

I have made progress. I estimate two+ a sliver planks on the (arbitrary) port side and three plus a sliver on the starboard side.  That may give a sense of scale for these images.

For me, planking takes patience and practice.  As I have progressed on this  hull, I think in some areas I have improved my process and skill.  But I suspect even at the best of times, I will (and do) make a mistake.  However, I get some satisfaction from successfully repairing or correcting my slip up.  The latest example is seen below. 

 

Near each of the arrows on the images below you will see the planks were sanded too much or cut too short. My over enthusiasm in sanding left a couple of holes. While both of these might have been fixed later with the inevitable wood filler that I still need to use, the filler has something to adhere to and not be a messy plug. 

 

I fixed these with some of the small end pieces I have from the planks  I sanded very carefully to fit those tiny pieces into the holes. Some fillers to make a better fit.  

The last plank on each side will like end up as a very small filler between the plank and the keel board. This model did not use a rabbet for the planks. I should be able to finish putting those in sometime next week...at least that's my plan. 

 

Then I remove the hull from the bulkheads and start fairing the hulls by sanding,  then filling the gaps, follow by more sanding.  Hopefully, I won't have too many repetitions of those steps. 

[robert952]

Preview of revised keel.

Per the instructions, after faring the hull a false keel is added: two 1/8" pieces attach to each stem and meet in the middle of the boat. While that may be a several days away, it's never to late to think about this step. 

 

As I said, I want to model this after a drawing in Chapelle's book referenced at the start of this build log. Per that drawing, the keel extends from the bottom of the hull for 4-3/4".  The top of the stems taper to 3-1/4".  I will use these dimensions, though I may forgo the taper as then I can use a constant measure for the stems. 

 

To create a pattern, I used the original die cut sheet that held the stems.  The outside measure of that stem will be the inside measure of my keel.  

I then cut a cardboard pattern as a practice test piece so that I can check the fit.

Then a quick check to see how close the fit is at this point. 

Not a bad fit considering the boat is on the form.  Once I fair the hull, I will repeat the process adjusting as needed for a good fit.  The rest of the keel sits on the flat bottom.  A scarf joint (as you see on the pattern) will be the method to assemble the keel to the hull. I will make all three pieces for the hull and make sure they fit well.  

 

I will use a similar approach to make the rudder for the boat.  

[JacquesCousteau]

Looks like it's coming along great!

[robert952]

26 minutes ago, JacquesCousteau said:

Looks like it's coming along great!

Thanks. Definitely coming along. 

[robert952]

Planking done.

 

Finally!

 

In this image the lines you see near the sheer (bottom on the image) are random pencil marks - not cuts or gaps. They just suddenly appeared and I see no reason why I would have put them on the hull.  (Is there such a think as work bench poltergeist?) The little 'center marks' and  short lines follow (more or less) the bulkheads were my guides to make sure I placed the board in the same position while I bent and glued the planks. .  

Another angle.

I have a bit of work with sanding and filling (and sanding some more) as you can see by these images.  If anyone sees an area I need to be concerned with, let me know please. 

The last few planks on the keel proved a challenge to me.  (Again, pencil marks are not cuts or gaps on the one plank off of the keel plane.  I found it interesting that the small bend/radius was harder to do than the longer curved pieces.  It was difficult to hold the boards in place as they dried since there's no room for clamps or clips.  I ended up with a lot of painter's tape.  Here the gaps will need filling more so than other areas of the hull.

Next steps:

 

Remove the hull from the strong back. That should go ok with little or no problems.  I think I did a decent job by using bees wax and breaking errant glued joints as I went. I will know in next day or two.  (I have a new PC game to play with and will likely spend some time there.)

 

I have done a little preliminary sanding on some of the planks to fair the keel lines a bit. I plan on taking my time on the fairing.  I checked my sandpaper supply.  It was in disarray and required a bit of reorganizing.  Now all the grits are sorted.  So, I won't have trouble finding what I need.  

 

After that I will create the keel (as previewed above) and assemble that to the hull.  

 

Then I will decide whether to paint the hull immediately after installing the keel or wait until I get the ribs and floor boards installed.  (Any insight will be welcomed.)  

 

[robert952]

Removed boat from the form.

 

Since I had success with loosening the planks with white vinegar, I figured that would be the same solution for this phase.  A bit of vinegar on a cotton swab at the two stem joints.  Let it soak a couple of minutes.  Then gently pried the stem from the base board.  Only a bit of force needed to break the hull loose.   

The instructions indicate the hull might pull in on the sides.  They suggest using the midship bulkhead as a brace. I saw that same suggestion made in a couple of build logs for this kit.  However, I did not have that issue.  I measured the beam on the form before I removed the hull.  I measured the beam again off the form.  Exactly the same measurements, no pulling in. However, I will remove the center bulkhead from the base board and have it ready just in case.

 

The lines on the keel board are guide for the ribs (solid lines) and floor boards (dashed lines).  Once the ribs are in place, the form will hold its dimensions. 

 

When I am ready for installing ribs and floor boards I will plan for (and likely install) the mast step.  On the 15' prototype, that point is 2-1/2 ' in from the bow stem.  For this 14' version, the dimension probably will be close to that.  If I calculate properly it should be 2' 4" from the bow. In reality, it's likely not to matter too much at this scale. However, it gives me a target location.

 

Here's a another views.  

For now, it's time to do some sanding and filling and more sanding.  

[robert952]

Quick update on this build.  Likely not going to do much for next few months. Possibly some sanding and filling in the garage).  

 

We are in the middle of changing residences.  (That's the simple description.)  

 

New house being built - schedule closing early next year.  Keeping track, will make a few trips to keep track of progress  - 3 hour drive from current home.  Also, will be 'staging' our belongings to a U-Stor-It type place.  

 

Getting current home ready for market.  Goes live late this month/early November  - should sell quickly as I did a lot of upgrades and the market here is still a hot seller's market  Starting to pack stuff up so that the house looks like no one really lives here.  Mostly just 'declutter stuff.' But that includes my modeling desk per the real estate agent.  This is also called 'staging.' 

 

(Maybe I should post in 'Play on Words.)

 

 

[Seamus107]

I started this kit more than twenty-five years ago, as an entry point into building ship models.  Even as a completely naive modeler, I found many problems with the kit, especially with respect to the planking.  I just couldn’t finish it, the planks seemed much too narrow, required bending in three directions (which wood doesn’t like to do), didn’t sit well on the forms, and didn’t resemble the planks on any of the small boats I see here in Maine. My experience with this kit almost discouraged me from pursuing the hobby any further.
 

I rescued the model from a shelf in the garage last week, after having had a lot of subsequent experience in scratch-building small model boats, to see it I could make something of it. I saw that the narrow “planks” provided with the kit produced a very unrealistic planking pattern as one worked around the curve of the hull toward the keel.  I thought it was me and my inexperience at the time I worked on the model, until I looked around on this forum and saw the same results from other builders.  From my observations here in Maine, peapods and dories usually have 5 wide strakes extending from stem to stern, often in a clinker-built arrangement, that look nothing like the planks in this model kit.  See the attached photo below, which is a screen shot from a video about building a peapod.

 

I tried using lots of wood filler and sandpaper to disguise the planking lines and produce a smooth hull.  It sort of worked on the outside, but not at all on the inside, where the twisted planks produced a ribbed look.  Unsatisfactory.  It doesn’t seem worth the effort to continue this way.  I may recreate the stem and stern post, add a new midline plank, attach it to the base with the forms, and use this to create a hull with five overlapping strakes.  Or, I may start from scratch and build a peapod model in the same way full-sized boats are built.

 

james

 

 

Edited December 14, 2023 by Seamus107
Clarity

[robert952]

Thanks for sharing your experience, James. 

 

I haven't been discouraged by the kit.  Frustrated, yes. But for me that's part of the learning process. One goal I set was to learn how to apply planks to a model.

 

I agree, making complex bends proved challenging. (A few planks had to be redone during the process.)  I think I accomplished the task adequately and reached my learning goal.  Once I made the turn towards the keel, the process became easier and relied more on trimming the planks over bending them.  

 

And your points of filling and sanding are spot on. The lines of the boat make sanding the interior (particularly) difficult.  

 

I think the kit does a good job providing learning opportunities for the beginner. The kit also gives room to modify and differentiate the model.  My adding a keel and sail will be my contribution to the changing the kit. I guess that shows the different experiences we have had with the model. 

 

I am not trying to discount the technique the image shows for that prototype. The image obviously shows an approach for constructing these boats. 

 

I found the images below of a peapod under construction at this site: Soundings. (Original article published in June 2021) 

 

It appears there's multiple ways for building a peapod using different planking techniques.  My opinion is that the small planks are an accurate method for some peapods. 

 

 

Side Bar:  It's hard to believe my last post in this thread was October!  However, I do see a light (dim as it is) at the end of the tunnel.   Our physical move should be completed by mid-January. I hope get back to this model in February/March. (Part of that time frame depends on my ability to find all my tools and modeling stuff we packed for the move.  🥴  )

 

I am glad I decided to focus on the move over attempting to continue work on the model.  Between getting my house ready to sell and keeping track of the construction of the new home, I have had little spare time. That situation would have been discouraging. 

 

However, the time to focus on my modeling is approaching.  

 

 

[Seamus107]

Thanks for sending me the link and photos of strip-planked peapod construction. We all hopefully learn something every day, and this forum is a good place to learn new stuff.  Good luck on completing your house and unpacking everything.  Looking forward to your progress reports when they resume.  Maybe I will finish the Midwest peapod model, strip planking and all.

 

james

[robert952]

OK...getting closer to returning to this project.  As stated, it seems forever ago, we started the process of moving to a new home that was under construction (concrete pad had just been poured).  

 

Long story short: While the house was under construction, we moved stuff to a 'u-stor-it' place (about 8 loads in my small SUV).  That included ALL my modeling accoutrements. With the Admiral's permission, I have a room that I can call "My Room" which will have my relocated workbench.  (I may lay claim to the third garage in the image below. Don't tell the Admiral.)

We closed the sale yesterday (1/9).  Today, we got major appliances in place and got a propane tank (for cooktop and fireplace only) installed.  Mover comes tomorrow to pick up my worldly possessions at old home and move them to new.  (I will be off-line for some time until I get my inhouse network squared a way and ship shape.)

 

 

One loose end with a 'move out' cleaning of my old home will be tied off on 1/13.  

 

Then, the work of finding all my previously mentioned worldly possessions and putting them where they belong in the new digs starts in earnest. Especially the stuff for "My Room." 

[Bryan Woods]

Beautiful house Robert! I love the backdrop of trees. That’s wonderful you got your climate controlled shipyard:-) I’m hoping one day I’ll have the climate control:-) but until then, I’ll just control it with clothing layers:-) you should do a thread when you set up your shipyard:-)

[robert952]

Preface for this post

 

For those who are following this build, thanks for your patience. I hope you haven't lost interest in continuing your read of my log. 

 

I finally feel I have done enough of the projects needed to turn our new house into a home. At least to the point where I don't feel guilty working on this build instead of some other home project.

 

Just to show off my new digs, here's my model assembly area. Out of frame to the left is my computer desk.  Any 'dirty tasks' like sanding or heavy cutting I do in the garage. The Admiral doesn't like the idea of sawdust in the rug. (Well, I agree with her. I do keep a vacuum cleaner in the room. And I use it regularly during my work sessions.  But still, we all know the mess we can make.) 

My last true entry build was September 8, 2023.  Hard to believe (in some respects) it's been over thirteen months.  Yet, with all that went since then, I feel accomplished at what I have done in RL.  There's still a lot to do at home. But they are longer term items.  Like the yard/gardening work which I have as a three to four year plan.  

 

Enough jabbering on to the build.

 

Filling and sanding

 

With the nearly 14 month lapse since the last time I look seriously at this build, at the end of October, 2024 I reviewed this log, looked at my build so far, and reviewed my plans for the model.  Per the check boxes in the instruction manual, the hull gets sanded at this point.

 

I started on the outside as that's easy enough. I revitalized my filler and had read somewhere over past year that thinning the filler helps get it into small gaps.  Since I plan on painting the hull, that seems a good idea. 

 

While looking at the inside of the hull I saw a lot of sharp corners which will be hard to fill and sand. I wanted to find a way to do that task a bit easier.  I went to my local Hobby Lobby and found these two kits of stainless steel tools.  

On the left of the 6" ruler you'll see a shaping set of tools some with sharp(ish) blades. The spatulas on the right have many shapes, a few of which were quite useful.  At $11 US each, I thought them to be a good investment.  They proved helpful with the tasks like mixing and spreading the filler. 

 

I repeated the process three or four times and things didn't go as smoothly (pun intended) as I thought. My guess is that I wasn't consistent in mixing up the filler which caused air pockets or something. I am not sure what went awry. But I got to a point to where I called the hull 'faired enough' for now.  

I'll do a bit more filling and sanding and seal it before painting. I will likely paint the hull after installing floorboards and ribs and before the seats and risers go in so I can cover all the nooks and crannies inside. For now, I'll work on the next part of the my building plans.

 

New Keel

The original model puts a false keel on the hull.  However, I planned from the beginning to add a sail and rudder per the 1937 version in Chapelle's book. (See post #1 above for details and the plan lines for that boat.)

 

The book also has details for this boat on the keel, rudder and mast step.  

I considered three factors at this point.  

 

A. How to create a template(s) that fits.

I started out with the model's diecut opening for the stem pieces (see log entry #16). The outside edge of that hole is my starting point for the new stem and keel assemblies.

 

The above drawing covers a boat of 15 ft, 8-1/2 in. The kit models a 14 ft. vessel. I will have to fudge the numbers a bit.  However, the results will be close and proportional.

 

I also can tweak a few other things and adjust on the fly as (and if) needed. For example, the keel is 4-3/4 in. deep per the drawing. I will start as if it's 5 inches and can shave/sand down to the dimension. Also, I will not cut the wood right to the line of the template and can shape and fit the pieces as needed.  More on this in a bit.

 

So, literally, I went back to the drawing board. I had done a 'proof of concept' early on (post #16 above) and had an idea of what I wanted to do.  I needed to be more accurate on the template and determine how much adjustment I would need. 

Knowing my ability to mess up things, I keep the concept of having to do something over foremost.  That leads me to a three piece solution: two stems and a keel piece.  The stems will extend far enough to reach the flat bottom of the hull.  Then I can cut the keel to fit between the stems using a straight cut plank and no need for any curve. A scarf joint will help fit the pieces together. 

 

Now a moment of truth.  How close will it fit?

 

I know that with the bending, sanding, and other aspects of assembly, I won't have a perfect fit. I also figure that the two stems won't be symmetrical on the model.  I glued a copy of the template to some thick cardboard, cut the template, and placed it on the model. 

 

Bow fit

Stern fit

 

I was surprised at how close the fit was based on the drawing compared to the model. Not surprised of the lack of symmetry.  But no catostrphic issues. (I'll have to work on symetry in future builds. As we all know, it's always a learning process.)

 

The fit, as expected, is not perfect. Since I plan on being generous when I cut the actual wood pieces, I can get by with the same template for both.  Each stem will be custom fit.

 

By the way, I used some dental floss (which really isn't floss but a very thin strip of plastic) to lay on the hull and stems to determine the hull's center line. (I don't know why I had dental floss in my tool box. But, it works.) 

 

While the drawing shows the rudder details, I will worry about creating a pattern template for that at some point after the keel assembly and I can custom cut the inboard side of the piece.

 

B. Where will mast step go. 

The keel detail drawing has information on the location of the mast (including the rake), So, I decided to work on that aspect. I determined where the the mast step will be. I figured that now was a good time to set which end will be the bow.  The peapod is a double-ender and in principle still is.  However, with the addition of a rudder, the boat really is not an operational double-ender. 

 

I started out cutting a copy of the bottom plank from the model's drawing for two reasons.  1) When I marked the bottom plank, I used  a permanent marker which bled into the wood.  The locations aren't sharply defined. My filling and sanding also coveed up some of those original markings. 2) I figure the location of the ribs would provide a convenient locator for the mast step. Even if I end up adjusting the location or cuts when laying the ribs and floor boards, this test will give me an idea of how much. 

 

My intuition proved to be accurate.  

The line furthest right (edge of the template) shows where the bottom plank overlaps into the stem.  Log entry #2 shows this detail. The next line shows the interior end of the stem. And the third line shows the first full width rib though it's short being located near the bow. The dotted lines show where floor boards fit. The area circled shows where I will fit the mast step - conveneintly between ribs and with no extra cutting.  And it comes close to matching the original prototype boat dimensionally or at least close enough proportionately.

 

(As a preview, I will have to 'redesign' the bow seat.  The seat will be larger than the pieces in the kit.  Further there is a hole in the bow seat to support the mast.)

 

C. What are future challenges.  

The last aspect to consider which are all related... 

 

- Doing the shaping and sizing of the three pieces for the final fit will have it's inherent though not tremendous challenges.

 

- Making sure the keel is perpendicular to the hull and on the center line. Again, thanks to my dental floss, I have a fighting chance at getting the keel straight. Using machinist squares should allow me to install it perpendicular.

 

- Making sure I don't break the keel off as I progess with the build. I will come up with a rig or cut some foam to protect it.  As with the above, nothing that should prove too difficult.

 

(All famous last words I am sure.)

 

I hope in the next entry to have cut and installed the keel.

[JacquesCousteau]

Glad to see you picking this build up again! Good idea to use filler on the hull interior, I thought the planks were too uneven on the interior of my peapod build.

[robert952]

14 hours ago, JacquesCousteau said:

Glad to see you picking this build up again! Good idea to use filler on the hull interior, I thought the planks were too uneven on the interior of my peapod build.

Yep. Your build is why I looked at the interior, too. I agree.  On the good side, as you pointed out, the seats will hide some of the issues particularly on the ends.