Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL

[Jim Lad]

Really looking the ant's pants, Mark!

 

John

[Bedford]

Magnificent work Mark

[Mark Pearse]

Thank you everyone,

 

I'm now back from a Nordic trip in the northern hemisphere summer, & have now finished & assembled more of the details around the cockpit & face of the raised deck. The horizontal varnished trimming pieces both sides of the companionway, which insect with a vertical varnished piece each side; & the weathered teak cockpit seat backrests.

 

Overall view:

 

Detail, & I can see the pencil alignment mark needs to be removed:

 

The junction of the strips was difficult to get, but happy with this:

 

Detail, showing the drain openings & another pencil mark to be removed...

 

 

Trimming piece, against the deck.

thanks for looking in,

 

[Bedford]

Mate, she's beautiful. Great details!

[wefalck]

Somehow, I had missed this project up to now  🙁

[Mark Pearse]

Thank you Steve & welcome Welfack, & hi to everyone - 

 

I've now almost completed the timber work, & apart from the spars just the tiller remains to be done now. Then I'll work on the spars & metalwork. This boat has stainless steel fittings, so I'll be painting the metalwork silver. This recent work includes deck & cockpit timber details, all unfinished (weathered) teak.

 

 

The bases for the cockpit winches, which are used mainly for the running backstays.

 

The deck cutwaters, deck winch bases & a small base for a cam cleat fitting - that are all alongside the main hatch. And the large cutaway on the port side cutwater is a support for the spinnaker pole.

 

 

 

The Sampson post & the forwards support chock for the spinnaker pole. The sampson post isn't fixed down yet, there will be a mortise for the bowsprit, to be cut into the forward side face.

 

And the port side cutwater. The small holes are for the lines that lead to the cam cleats: spinnaker topping lift one side & spinnaker pole kicker the other. I'm not sure what the 3rd one is, but will find out.

 

They were tricky to drill due to the angles & the fact that regular drill bits down't work well at angles, especially if it's a small hand drill. What I did was: to initially drill the holes & then put CA glue on it all to harden the timber up, drill right through & CA to the hole...then when hard clean it all up. I also found that a 1mm wide strip of sandpaper was quite a useful way to sand inside the angled holes.

 

thanks, 

 

 

[JacquesCousteau]

Excellent work! The contrast between the weathered teak and the paint and finish on everything else looks really sharp.

[Jim Lad]

Very sharp, Mark!

 

John

[wefalck]

If you make the metal-work in brass, instead of painting, you could also look into self-tinning solution. Over here in Europe some model-shops carry it, but otherwise it can be found in electronics supply shops - nothing looks like metal - like metal

 

[Mark Pearse]

Thanks all, & Welfack: a big thank you for this suggestion. I'll investigate & do some tests. I assume it needs to go onto metal as a base? (I purchased some small brass winches off the shelf, & on the smaller ones I'd like to add a base, as most contemporary winches have a base flange that is around 25-30mm thick - so my plan was to add a round disc to the bottom from 2 or 3mm thick acrylic).

[Bedford]

Mark, beautiful work as usual, if the winch bases are just circular I can run them up on the lathe for you so you can tin the lot properly.

[Mark Pearse]

Hi Steve,

 

that would be fantastic - as a guide they will be around 9mm diameter, if that's not too small for your equipment, with a hole in the centre. I'll confirm later via a personal message.

[Bedford]

Mate, I can handle that. Send me a drawing

[yvesvidal]

Fantastic model and beautiful boat. I love the contrast between the different varieties of wood and the exceptional finish and precision of the parts.

Absolutely superb.

 

Yves

[Mark Pearse]

thank you both, & I also like that contrast between varnished timber & the weathered timber