Protecting painted parts with a clear coat??

[Mjohn]

I'm currently building a Bowdoin kit and I'm painting the hull and assorted parts to be installed after painting.  I have read several recent posts regarding what paint to use for a build.

On the hull I'm brushing True North enamel.   I'll probably spray some other enamel from a can to cover the many small precast parts.

I have a long way to go before this boat will be built and rigged and I'm concerned the hull paint job could be damaged during the remainder of the build.  

Has anyone got any thoughts on applying a clear coat over the final hull paint?  I was thinking a satin or flat poly.    I'm guessing a clear coat might keep the paint job looking better after the model is complete too.

But I'm not a very experienced model boat builder,  so I'd be glad to hear what others think.

Thanks in advance

[Mjohn]

And, of course, after asking this question I found the post

"Polyurethane vs Lacquer vs Shellac'

This post has some provocative discussion of poly vs. shellac (which I used as a deck and spar finish).

If anyone has any additional thought though, I would be glad to hear them

And Spyglass shortly before I poster.      I should have seen both before posting

Edited April 14, 2023 by Mjohn

[Roger Pellett]

I keep a can of Testor’s Dulcote on hand to spray on painted parts.  It seems to be compatible with both acrylic and enamel paints.

 

[CPDDET]

I use a clear spray acrylic matte finish over my painted parts. Adds some UV protection and makes the model easier to dust off.

[GrandpaPhil]

I clear coat as I go with:

Although the Folk Art clear works well too!

[Bob Cleek]

It would seem to me to be a lot more cost effective and save a labor to simply paint with a higher quality paint and forget about additional clear coatings. The more coatings you apply to a model, the more detail you destroy. Your mileage may vary, I suppose.

 

[vaddoc]

Acrylic paint is easily damaged. Enamel paint is much harder but also can get damaged. I think the only part of the boat you should seriously think protecting is the hull. It will certainly get scratched during the rest of the build or during its life after. I use varnish, either water based or enamel. Water based is easier to use but enamel is overall harder and better - I think I ll go back to enamels for the boats I am currently building. I ve tried the Valejo polyurethane varnish previously, water based, seemed to be ok. Humbrol enamel varnishes are also very good, or at least this has been my experience.

 

Couple of things to consider

 

1. Spray cans can be temperamental and spray inconsistent or thick coats. Be careful

2. Satin finishes need good stirring to evenly distribute the media within. Matt varnishes are more difficult, they need some care to avoid inconsistent results.

3. Basically practice and test your finish on scrap wood, NOT the model! Seriously, you do not want to be sanding the hull down if something goes wrong.

 

I d definitely put something over the hull.

Edited April 15, 2023 by vaddoc

[wefalck]

We had this discussion in several threads now ... it comes down to what kind of boat we are talking about and in what kind of finish it is to be represented. As already noted by others, the fewer coats of paint/varnish the better in principle.

 

I tend to play with the different shines of paint, as they would appear on the real thing. Therefore, I don't like this varnish all over as some people advocate.

 

Personally, I put off painting as long as possible, basically to just before the final assembly. Of course, others might get impatient and need the colour to give them the impression of progress. That's psychology ...

 

If possible I would also mount the model securely onto a temporary stand, basically a rough form of the final one. So one has to think right from beginning about the mounting and make the necessary arrangement for detachable fixtures, such as nuts cemented into the hull to take in threaded rods for instance. The stand should be big enough to provide an enveloppe of the model, including say the bowsprit. In this way you don't need to touch or move the hull around, while you are working on it, which reduces the risk of damage.

 

Individual painted parts can be stored in (plastic) boxes lined with bits of kitchen paper towel until they are needed. This also gives the paint time to harden thoroughly. 

Edited April 15, 2023 by wefalck

[GrandpaPhil]

Clear coating, even on bare wood, also gives unwanted things, like stray glue drops or stray paint, something else to adhere to.  This makes clean up easier, for me at least.

[Mjohn]

This is some good information.   Thanks for taking the time to give me your thoughts.