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Posted
On 10/11/2024 at 2:46 PM, JSGerson said:

FYI - Because white styrene has a tendency to yellow over time, painting it, is a must.

 

Jon

Oooh,  that could work to my advantage. How long before it goes yellow?

Posted (edited)

Close, but no cigar.  Let's call this attempt a proof of concept, rather than the finished product. Styrene is very nice to work with.

 

And yes Geoff, I am considering repeating the process using wood. I'll have to go shopping because I've got nothing this thin.

 

Assuming I get a better result on my second try with styrene, and factoring in Jon's recommendation to paint because styrene yellows over time, maybe the next experiment would be to prime the styrene and find a paint that will approximate the color of the unstained wood used on the sill.

 

(So far all of the gallery components are removable.)

 

20241014_153629.thumb.jpg.8b3d05e2dee7847e111a71adcc00fadb.jpg

 

Comparison to HipExec's Constructo kit build..

20241014_162257.thumb.jpg.8ac9c056d84d17c750b8e79b7267eb0a.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by Der Alte Rentner
Added photo..
Posted

That's damn near perfect. Just add your transparent material to the black backing prior to the frame work to get that pane glass look. I admire your tenacity.

 

Jon

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

Posted (edited)

Having given much thought to the process of constructing the windows, I have gone back to the Bob Hunt methodology and am quite pleased with the result.

 

20241016_172504.thumb.jpg.889b67dd46df5f5080d8c568adc6c56c.jpg

 

I was just going to say that I had to give some thought to how I would finish the window frames. Then I realized I glued the plexiglass to the back of the frame. Either I'm going to leave the frames white, or go back and reconstruct this one, and before adding the glass on all of them, prime and paint some color approximating the natural Basswood.

 

Practice makes perfect. Here are the steps that got me to the end result.

 

20241016_141441.thumb.jpg.902faa5511c259f2f998d38af2c61d4c.jpg

 

20241016_145822.thumb.jpg.87a60047fcc0c1e23e1cc2ad7edfbc01.jpg

 

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20241016_152314.thumb.jpg.3e4f6ac7dbf73eec6fa5c65fc6cefd3b.jpg

 

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Edited by Der Alte Rentner
Typos, and trying like heck to get rid of an extraneous photograph.
Posted

Well you went from "damn near perfect" to perfect. Well done!!

 

Jon

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

Posted (edited)

Thank you gentlemen. Your kind words are greatly appreciated.

 

That 3rd window proved to be a challenge, but also an opportunity. On my first pass with the styrene, I glued the center post between the bottom and the top on the frame, per the Hunt method. Doing so made fashioning a  well fitting window pane more difficult than it needed to be.

 

Because I once again screwed up (new rule, measure FOUR times, cut once), I remade that third window, this time after putting together the four edges, I fitted the glass. Then I added the upright and cross members of the frame. As a bonus, the solvent did a nice job of afixing the glass to the frame.

 

I didn't get a picture of the process for the third window, second pass, but at this point in the process, I fitted the window pane.

 

20241016_152314.thumb.jpg.d0b225a8c1fd576de7752cd75985a32c.jpg

 

I made sure the 15 additional pieces of styrene covered the original butt joints. This made for a very solid window frame.

 

I also am really becoming fond of the finish that I've chosen and, I know I'm going against the grain here but I can't help myself. One coat of clear finish has been applied to everything from the bottom sill up.

 

Note nothing has yet been glued in place. When I do glue the window frames in, they should sit a little further back and look a tad better.

 

I'm enjoying this photograph for today. Tomorrow I decide whether or not I'm going to add the trim above and below the pilasters or to move to the port side and come back to finish that later.  (Yes, he's stalling again, trying to decide whether those trim pieces should be made out of wood or styrene. I'm leaning toward wood. 😁  )

 

Have a nice weekend all.

 

20241018_154757.thumb.jpg.fb6c4484d5debd0d195d1a351b836e42.jpg

 

 

Edited by Der Alte Rentner
Added additional commentary
Posted

Those are great looking windows!

 

Jon

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

Posted (edited)
On 10/18/2024 at 10:09 PM, mtbediz said:

Peter, windows look very good. I've never worked with styrene before. What tools do you use to cut and shape it properly? Thanks.

Just a sharp xacto knife and fine tweezers.

 

Experiment a bit with the solvent, which basically melts the styrene to form the bond.  Go easy on it.  

 

Superglue will affix styrene to wood.  I've tried both super glue and the solvent to attach plexiglass to the styrene. I had better results with the solvent. But again, go super easy with it and experiment a little first.

 

I look forward to see how you fare with this.

 

Good luck

 

 

P.S.  I assumed that you would know what I meant by "solvent".  The Hunt Practicum specified "using
Plastruct Plastic Weld solvent," in Chapter 7  page 22.  Hunt states that you "touch the joints using a paint brush dipped into the
solvent. Capillary action will suck the solvent into the joints and in a few minutes, fuse the pieces to each other."

 

Edited by Der Alte Rentner
added content
Posted

It was very clever of you to make each piece separately from the model, Peter. I worked entirely on the model when making the galleries and it was very difficult. As always, you did a very clean and neat job.

Posted

Beautifully done!

 

Jon

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

Posted

I would be proud to have these quarter galleries on my model. Well worth the effort.

 

Jon

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

Posted

I'm refining the process for making the windows.  The next time I do this, things will go a little faster. 😁

 

1. Make a paper template to fit the space.

20241030_122035.thumb.jpg.496444bccd1ab9641d55ad8e817b36dc.jpg

 

2. Transfer the shape to another piece of paper.

20241030_122108.thumb.jpg.222a0489c29adb10491b34b99080bdfb.jpg

 

3. At guide lines for the central rail and styles.  (I took the previous photo after I had added the guide lines.)

20241030_122116.thumb.jpg.4aefa9f6ba4691141d6f493d1e7e0727.jpg

 

4. Add double sided tape.  

20241030_122228.thumb.jpg.abb47f229884001d5cd3bf9c52666fe0.jpg

 

5. Cut styrene for outside edges.  Test the fit with the paper template.20241030_124057.thumb.jpg.19d1e0badeaf9bae7dd754fbac10c5df.jpg

 

6. Use double sided tape to transfer the pattern to plexiglass for the window.20241030_124311.thumb.jpg.38bc54ef9d3872b0c6bb9046bdd6c6a0.jpg

 

7. Cut the window. (Note: pattern still attached to plexiglass.)20241030_125023.thumb.jpg.1a1d892d012bf0089dac55a23e01be41.jpg

 

8. Test fit the window.

20241030_125200.thumb.jpg.14b947a8bd753c724ac8b8120665070a.jpg

 

9. Take the wife to city hall to vote.

 

10. Return to the shop another day to form the rest of the window.

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Pretty much done.  Some fine tuning still required, but the hard work, at least on these galleries, is done.

 

Note, everything is still unglued.  I'll hold off just a bit while I figure out the best way to go about staining the hull.

 

Also, looking ahead, I see that fashioning the two bottom moldings beneath the gallery windows and crossing the transom is going to take some thought as well. I see now that a black hull with white trim lends itself to working with styrene in this area. I've got some work ahead of me here my friends..

 

And before anyone asks, yes, I did try various stains and paints on the styrene. None of the results looked better than keeping it white, at least for me.

 

A tad more construction detail.  

20241102_094611.thumb.jpg.c0a4e5ea8109f9bda1d189a86be9bc15.jpg

 

20241102_114915.thumb.jpg.696dcb210f8ea0b359be2c66aabde0ab.jpg

 

The port side gallery.

20241102_132710.thumb.jpg.c479d2bc98f380ed3bc16ac9e86cb095.jpg

 

20241102_132706.thumb.jpg.f8a9bc2e7ff1c44dd5c8720b84cba2b2.jpg

 

 

Edited by Der Alte Rentner
Added content
Posted (edited)

Okay, here goes.  Staining begins  (in baby steps)..

 

Speaking of baby steps, I'm using Q-tips, the pointy kind, as well as the standard ones, to apply and remove the stain. I tried brushes, they are problematic at least around the gun deck ports. I might resort to a brush for the bottom of the hull.

 

20241104_152923.thumb.jpg.7d272f56000c11376ee15d5b8ed9f617.jpg

Edited by Der Alte Rentner
Added content
Posted (edited)

So, now I have to ask myself, would I rather switch to black so that I can use styrene for the molding and scroll work later? 

 

Stain applied, but need to wait 24 hours to clear coat..

 

Boy, do I wish I'd used better wood for the planking. It would have been nice to not have to stain at all. Oh well, this is a learning experience.

 

20241105_152113.thumb.jpg.55876fd51f0921b848c65e502355c9ff.jpg

Edited by Der Alte Rentner
Posted
5 hours ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

do I wish I'd used better wood for the planking. It would have been nice to not have to stain at all. Oh well, this is a learning experience.

Yes, unfortunately if the model is not going to be painted, the basswood is not a good choice. In my opinion it would be better if you switch to black.

Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, mtbediz said:

Yes, unfortunately if the model is not going to be painted, the basswood is not a good choice. In my opinion it would be better if you switch to black.

As a long time woodworker favoring natural finishes, 

image.thumb.png.c5e31535fd3b0608bd024d07e2cd5599.png

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I just hate the thought of giving up, but I think I must reluctantly agree with you on this Mustafa.  I'm going to spend a few hours at the shipyard just staring at Conny to see if I can't convince myself to make the switch.  

 

One thing I won't like to do, if I change directions, is to prime and paint the galleries.  I assembled them the way I did so that I had nice clean demarcations between contrasting colors.  In a worst case scenario, I'd have to remake the pilasters and windows.  Ugh..   

 

Stay tuned..

 

 

 

Edited by Der Alte Rentner
attempt to get photos positioned the way I want them to be.
Posted
3 hours ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

As a long time woodworker favoring natural finishes, 

image.thumb.png.c5e31535fd3b0608bd024d07e2cd5599.png

image.thumb.png.a89421da8b60c8340f7d67c3caa4cedc.png

 

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I just hate the thought of giving up, but I think I must reluctantly agree with you on this Mustafa.  I'm going to spend a few hours at the shipyard just staring at Conny to see if I can't convince myself to make the switch.  

 

One thing I won't like to do, if I change directions, is to prime and paint the galleries.  I assembled them the way I did so that I had nice clean demarcations between contrasting colors.  In a worst case scenario, I'd have to remake the pilasters and windows.  Ugh..   

 

Stay tuned..

 

 

 

Sometimes decisions are hard, but you need to think from the ending point of view (is that correct english?). You would always look onto the model and regret to have not done the hard cut. I believe the painted model is the better choice. 

And:

I agree : those photos show perfect craftsmenship... maybe art! Excellent! 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, mtbediz said:

Those furnitures are amazing Peter! Is carpentry your profession or are these part of your hobby too?

Hard to believe I flunked my first semester of Woodshop in high school, eh?  😁 

 

No, not a profession.  I took up woodworking as a hobby in my 50s because I wanted to have something concrete to show for my labors - after watching the computer I spent 15 years programming being pushed into the back of a van to be recycled after the company upgraded computers and retired my programming in favor of an ERP software system.  

 

I saw the plans for this laptop table in an issue of Fine Woodworking and made it my first project.  The pictures are not the best, but I'm quite proud of the finished project. 

 

image.thumb.png.db10c46eb0952ad326b45ef7a69c9ef0.png

 

It's been a very satisfying hobby, but I got tired of big projects and decided to try modelling for a change of pace. 

 

Thank you for the kind words.

Best

Peter

Edited by Der Alte Rentner

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