Help with blocks

[wmherbert]

I've been having a great time getting started after a lot of years with model ship building and I've really appreciated the wealth of information here.

My question is about blocks, which I'm sure alot of other beginners have too.

I've tried various different methods of stropping blocks to attach to masts, booms etc. I've tried using fine wire and either making a loop at one end or just a wider space and then opening up an eye bolt to attach the block.  tricky doing a becket. So so results.

Latest method has been using fine thread and tying around the block and leaving the ends of thread long and then tying them to the eye bolt. I've tried either tying a loop first for a becket and then tying around the block or drilling in and gluing an eye bolt to the block to make the becket.

    How are you experienced guys doing all this? I would appreciate any thoughts and suggestions.

By the way I've been mostly working in 1/4 inch scale. Partly because of lack of skill working at 1/8th with blocks.

Bill

[wmherbert]

Here is a scratch build San Francisco scow schooner I just completed

Bill

[allanyed]

Bill

 I don't recall any book or article that goes into very detailed step by step methods for stropping blocks but it would be nice to learn of one.   Volume IV of TFFM by David Antscherl has some great photos and drawings of single and double stropped blocks that may help you. In general it is a great book for lessons in masting and rigging.    

Allan

 

 

[Keith Black]

 Bill, if you click on my build log below and go to page 12, post #352, you can see how I strop blocks using wire.....Keith

 

 

Edited July 11, 2023 by Keith Black

[wmherbert]

 

Here is a scratch build San Francisco scow schooner I just completed

Bill

[wmherbert]

Keith so to be clear you are mounting the blocks by drilling a hole and gluing in the twisted end?

I think one of problems with wire was not using annealed wire. Also I was forming an eye at top of block to connect to an eye bolt and then cutting off the twisted end. And if it was cut too close the wire wouldn't stay and too long it just looked sloppy 

[Keith Black]

14 hours ago, wmherbert said:

to be clear you are mounting the blocks by drilling a hole and gluing in the twisted end?

I think one of problems with wire was not using annealed wire. Also I was forming an eye at top of block to connect to an eye bolt and then cutting off the twisted end. And if it was cut too close the wire wouldn't stay

 Yes, in those cases where a block is attached to a yard, mast, or deck. In those cases where a block is used in a gun tackle lift......... Once the wire tail it twisted but before cutting off the twisted end I apply CA with a sewing needle applicator to the wire at the sides and the base of the twisted end removing excess CA with a Q-tip. This keeps the wire from separating from the block once the twisted end is cut off. After the CA is dry I cut off the twist very carefully allowing just the hint of twist remaining and I then gently file the "nub" to remove any sharp edges made with the side cutters and to achieve a flatter edge. See attached photo.

 

 

  

 

Edited July 12, 2023 by Keith Black

[barkeater]

Bill

I use thread for stropping my blocks. I make my blocks with a groove to fit the thread Then I serve or secure the two ends using smaller thread (fly tying thread works well) with multiple overhand knots (5-7) and then hit the knot and the stropping block thread lying in the groove with thinned pva (wood glue). I the snip one of the two ends. The other end is your rigging line, or you can attach to an eye bolt, hook or whatever. When a block is part of the chains, I use silver wire which I mold around the block to the correct shape then remove the wood block, silver solder and blacken with brass black.

Rich

[Keith Black]

  I wish I was capable of the work this man does, it is absolutely the best and the most amazing rigging I've seen. Start at the end of his build log and work backwards. 

 

 

 

[Bob Cleek]

1 hour ago, Keith Black said:

I wish I was capable of the work this man does, it is absolutely the best and the most amazing rigging I've seen. Start at the end of his build log and work backwards. 

I think a lot of it is just an optical illusion because he has such big hands. His hands make the pieces look smaller is all. 

 

 

    Just kidding. Johann is my secret hero. His work is incomparable. I've studied a lot of models in a lot of museums around the world and I"ve never seen anything to approach the quality of his work. His build log photography too is some of the best ship modeling porn I've ever seen.

[Keith Black]

 His woodwork and metalwork skills are every bit as phenomenal as his rigging skills. We're really privileged to have his build log here in MSW. 

Edited July 12, 2023 by Keith Black

[wmherbert]

Rich, 

That is basically what I've been doing  too. How do you make a becket doing blocks this way.

  I certainly can do blocks with thread must faster than with wire but never got very satisfactory results trying to make a becket. 

Bill

[wmherbert]

I think one advantage for wire is that glued in the blocks wouldn't twist so lines would stay in neater order.

[barkeater]

Bill

I was not quite sure what you were referring to at first. The picture is from Biddlecombe's The Art of Rigging.

I don't do beckets to connect the block to a line. I will form a loop when attaching to an eye or hook doubling up the line after it has run through the eye and seize both the going and coming portions together. I work in 1/48 scale with my single blocks measuring 2x2x3.5mm. In forming a loop to attach to a line, I'd have to form the loop around something the diameter of spaghetti for scale and you really would not be able notice it unless you used magnification. I try to put as much detail into my work as possible but for me, putting in a becket for a block to line attachment just doesn't seem to be worth the added time, effort and aggravation.  I attach the line (example: yard lift) to the block continuing the end of the line around the block as the stropping and then seize it to the line as I described earlier. 

Rich